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I also used a XD-3420 12v DC motor, they are smaller and quiet and give good torque for the size. I know you can get them in 24v.

I don't think those will have enough torque to be used as an auxiliary spindle. The 24v might, but they are typically used in low torque applications, often geared to multiply the output torque. You

Everyone - I’ve already re-motored my U3 with DC scooter motors, and yes, they are great. I’m looking for a lighter DC motor to mount on the slide as an auxiliary spindle…

A few years ago, for work, we were looking at 12V dc motors for a product we were developing. I looked at 795 12v motors. They are cheap and noisy. My advice, go for 24v scooter motors, better quality

Peter, All I can tell you is that I used two 24v Scooter motors I bought on EBay. They work flawlessly. Dick -- http://www.homemadetools.net/ forum/ OFF- SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972

Thanks John, that's useful.

This listing on ebay has a table with the dimensions and specs of the different motors High Power Large Torque Motor 775 795 895 DC 12V~24V 3000-12000RPM Bracket NEW ebay.com Best Regards John

Bit off topic (sorry) but has anyone got experience with these smaller 24V DC motors? This is not for re-motoring the U3 - which I’ve done already, a tremendous improvement - but for an auxiliary

That whirling is remarkable - it seems with enough power you can do anything! The challenge here of course is what can be done on the Unimat… with an ‘all the time in the world’ approach I think

Well, that would be one way to do it, but it is not the normal way of milling threads. That would have everything mounted as normal in a vertical mill, and the cutter would enter a pre-cut hole, and

I have decided to keep my original Unimat DB200 in its original configuration for the time being. As it is the only thing I have modified is the addition of two 150 watt DC motors with speed and

Ah doh, I get it. Sorry, I’m being a bit dense. The work is fixed flat on the slide, the main leadscrew and the one on the slide provide the X and Y movement, and the mill is the Z.

Nicely done although I think I’d miss the ability to use a manual down feed for drilling. And as for open loop my Electronic Lead Screw kit uses open loop on both my Gingery Lathe and South Bend

It usually takes several passes. You just set the starting point a bit closer each cut. You can call individual GCodes from within the LinuxCNC position menu so it is simple to do manually. If I were

Hi Peter: The work is fixed, the cutter orbits around the work. Thread size and tolerance is all software driven. Carl.

Looks neat. How many passes required to milling threads to depth? And is that a brass collet holder?

Peter - I tried that, it’s a nice design. I got the gears 3D printed but when assembled it suffered from slipping. Maybe I didn’t make it well enough (quite likely:-) Don - surely on something

When thread milling the work does not turn.? The milling table is moved so that the work piece will follow a circular path around the cutter.? Unlike taps and dies, one cutter COULD be used to mill

I like the Unimat 4 hand cranked threading mechanism (that works well on a Unimat 3 as well)

What is turning the work in that setup? (I could be misunderstanding here…)