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Without a milling machine or a lathe, achieving perfect axial alignment will be difficult if not impossible. You can get close, or even perfect if you're lucky, with a drill press. Drilling by hand

I've plugged pickles in to 120v and 220v. Try it!

I enjoyed one experienced machinist's explanation: It's all about the hardness, get them in the right order and anything cuts anything: Diamond cuts carbide Carbide cuts tool steel Tool steel cuts

Steve, That “retaining spring” in the clamping nut is an integral part of the “ER” series of collets. One is supposed to insert the collet into the nut before mounting it on the collet holder,

I don't see why not; in the distant past I've used carbide-tipped blades for wood on my table saw to cut aluminum. -Dave

I'm going to make a collet holder, using the instructions from Doug Collinge (from this forum). Just got the collets and the collet nut (shipped from Denmark, but made in China). The quality looks

Hello Bill, Your comments about building early machine tools brought back a memory from trade school. One of our early projects was to make a four jaw independent chuck screw complete with square

Use a drill press. Chuck in an m12 drill and use it to center the hole and clamp the object. replace the m2 with an m13 drill bit. Drilling by hand allowing the m13 drill bit to “seek its center”

From my own ham-fisted experience, boring will give better results. If you must drill, using a short bit can help. Also, try enlarging in more than one step. Have you experimented with a piece of

If you have a drill press, I would put the 12mm bit in the chuck, with power off lower the chuck/bit into the piece, then clamp the piece to the drill press table. Raise the chuck, replace with 13mm

Hi gang, Tried Google but wasn't able to get a definitive answer. I have an m12 hole (which is supposedly perfectly centered) and I want to widen it to m13. Assuming I do this using a hand drill + HSS

Just got back from our local hardware store and picked up a Diablo 7-1/4" finish blade, the kerf is 1/16, which is perfect! I'll make a nice sturdy sled for the motor mount and slit away. Should be

Those round carbide blades for a coping or hacksaw work great for this and are wide enought.?Jeff

Regarding 3D CAD packages, there are people that get along well with parametric modeling, and then there are people that don't.? I'm one of the "don't" types, several years ago I read a white paper

Good point! I think this application isn't so tolerance critical, but I'll remember this for future parts where it would make a difference.

Just remember that with aluminum casting the pattern for the casting needs to be about 103% of the desired part size, to allow for shrinkage as the casting cools to ambient temperature.? The same

Hello Bill and Steve: I like On Shape, a free on line 3D package. If you want private storage, you can pay more. https://cad.onshape.com/signin It was written by folks from Solid Works, so functions

Hello Steve: Any hack saw will do the job, band saw would be easier. Carl.

Got parts to make a separate power supply for each motor, and one (of 3) is probably going to become a tool post grinder... Many thanks!? Bill in OKC William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) Aphorisms to

Attaching the .stl files. There is a full piece, and then a bottom half piece. For the green sand two part mold, I'll first use the bottom half piece, fill one half of the mold with sand, pack it