开云体育

I used? /g/Unimat to get to home page
then clicked on messages

Tried it on an android phone shows black date with arrow top right hand side

Fred

Surprised I'm not seeing it that way on my tablet. That's about where my thumb rests when I'm holding the tablet. :)

Bill in OKC?

Could be on messages page at top right hand side is blue "Date" with little arrow changes start from first to latest

Fred

Anything that evaporates quickly will work in a pinch. A quick search for "spray cooler for electronics" brought up several from MG Chemical & others. Dad used ether cold starting spray a few times when I was a kid. Check Amazon, your local electronics store, et cetera. The spray coolers in the search won't leave a residue. Almost essential for electronics.

Bill in OKC?

Bill in OKC too suggested :
"... dry ice if you can find it ..."

Or, some electronics parts stores sell a spray-on cooling agent for
testing the temperature behaviour of small electronic parts.? Some of
these are quite good, although they might not induce as low a
temperature as dry ice.? Sorry that I don't know the brand names or
models of any of them, but one of them might be a good enough
substitute for dry ice.

In any case, Good Luck with your problem.

... Martin

I have been experiencing difficulties with groups.II in the last few days.
When I open the groups site I am finding I am viewing postings from the year 2000.
Am I doing something wrong?
Anyone else experiencing this or is it just me?

--
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION

Ah, different meanings for rotary valve. Mine is for multiplexing the dust collection input lines (3:1) to the cyclone, selecting the line based on current sensed from a tool that has been powered on. So instead of a manual blast gate at each device/station, the blast gates are replaced by the rotating 3:1 valve. When a tool is turned off (current no longer sensed), the controller leaves the suction (and valve selection) on for 10 seconds to clear dust out of the line.

I guess I don't generate that much sawdust, I've yet to empty the bin. I think it is around 15-20 gallons. The lid lifts off easily and I have acrylic discs as viewports to see how full it is.

Make 2 wedges approx 10°? with a slot in the middle the same diameter as the? exposed dead center. Squeeze them towards each in a vise between the dead center head and the tailstock barrel and they will force the center out. Here is a video from Mr Pete showing everything.
https://youtu.be/AtNM8-VUvrg

Was actually thinking of drilling a small bore hole through from the back of the ram, and tapping it out with a small drift…
Issue would be how hard is the ram itself gonna be, can it be easily drilled. It’s probably surface hardened as it’s a sliding surface, but perhaps not through?

Jeff

Sometimes with these old machines the old oil drys and acts a bit like glue. Try soaking the part in petrol (gasoline) or paint thinners. This will dissolve the oil pretty quickly.

If it is still stuck its likely to be rusted in place. In that case try some heat to the outside.

Thanks Matt!

Jeff

Hey Folks

picked up a second Unimat SL and their is a a dead Center jammed in the tailstock ram.?

Tried really high quality oil to loosen, not budged so far. Held dead centre in bench vise soft jaws, still couldn’t budge. Not much leverage mind since ram is out of tailstock. May have to reinstall ram in TS cast clamp tight and use for leverage with dead center held by vise…?
Anyone been here?
Turns out tailstock ram is partly solid.
thinking of heating the ram some hoping it expands faster than dead center and loosen that way… ?

thoughts anyone?..

thanks,
Jeff

?

The U3 version has deeper T-slots which means you can use both older SL and newer U3 T-nuts.

It is also a bit better made in general. The edges for example are better finished and are more square.

Steve:

Your rotary valve is on the Gazinza side of the dust collector, mine's on the Gazouta side.? I did a build log on Home Model Engine Machinist covering the build and installation.? There's pictures there if you're interested.


I initially had the cyclone discharging into a drum that had to be sealed similar to yours.? I built the airlock so that the discharge bin didn't have to be sealed.? It's less hassle now checking the level in the bin, or emptying it.

Don
?

Don, curious about your rotary valve, I built one too - a combination of 3D printed parts and baltic birch. Have pics to share? This one uses Arduinos, one at each "station" for current sensing and one master for receiving the current activation and auto-positioning the valve and turning the vacuum on and off.

If it was for the lathe setup, maybe, but as a vertical mill, the stress pulling down against the flat mount would bend over time, especially with any heat from the motor. I am going to try a sand cast in the next few days, I have enough aluminum ingots and I have the Petrobond setup. Until I get my new micro shop/shed built, I'm not using the Unimats for much anyway, and the lathe already has the factory mount.

Looking forward to it, should be fun!

Dave:

Nice looking 3D print you have there.? While you're is the process of learning how to cast the replacement bracket you might want to consider using a 3D printed bracket.? With enough perimeter wall thickness and plenty of infill it would take the loads that the 90-100W motors on a Unimat can throw at it.? PLA is more brittle and more temperature sensitive than ABS but it still works fine for an application like this.? Check out the MPCNC, there are guys there that are hanging 1HP routers off PLA brackets.? I built an airlock/rotary valve for my shop's dust collector, including the various odd-ball transitions for the dust collector.? I've been using it for a year or so with no problems.

I'm not saying that you shouldn't cast the bracket, but maybe you could use the PLA bracket as a prototype to see if there's anything you want to change.? I don't trust threads in FDM printed parts, at least not for something that gets removed/adjusted a lot, so I'd either embed a nut for the clamping screw, or use a threaded insert for that screw.

Don