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Re: Casting an aluminum motor mount for DC motor upgrade
Kevin Groenke @ PersonMakeObject
Cool! I commend your iniative to undertake your own casting Steve! When I swapped in a Foredom motor, I fabbed it out of 1/2" aluminum plate. On Sat, Apr 15, 2023, 6:49 PM Steve Johnson <steve@...> wrote: I have almost two complete Unimat SLs, yet to be installed in my new micro shop (that is waiting to be built..). The 2nd machine, which I will set up for milling, will have a dc motor installed. I've seen examples of taking the dc motor apart and drilling new holes that would line up with the original Emco mount. But I thought I'd save the $65ish Ebay cost and make my own. Especially since I won't need the dog leg where the idler pulley would go. |
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Tool Grinding 101
I'm a new Unimat owner, and I've only turned a few pieces with Delrin rod. I'm pretty ambitious about getting into more serious turning, but I have zero knowledge about the art/craft of creating and maintaining sharp tooling. Like what kind of grinder, standard tool shapes and what they are for, keeping things sharp, correct angles between the tooling and the workpiece, etc, etc.
So much to learn/understand, and I'd rather not go completely trial and error. Any good resources you can share about how to go about it the right way? (I've also never sharpened a drill bit, chisel, plane blade, saw blade, etc - not in any professional way - but I'd like to correct that too!) |
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Re: Why Unimat?
Kevin Groenke @ PersonMakeObject
Thanks Dick! At this point I'll use whatever wood species clients ask for! Generally the balance and feel of the knives is better with denser wood species, so I'm mostly using woods that are quite heavy and hard. Since the wood is a relatively small portion of the overall cost, I tend towards using "exotics" such as Rosewoods, Ebony and the like. I've also been fortunate to have developed a bit of a following amongst guitar builders and a number of them have sent me ridiculous amounts of fantastic woods in exchange for knives. I have more wood than I'll ever be able to make into knives, but I'm still a sucker for great stuff, so send me pictures if you want and maybe we can work something out.? The last ones I made are from Snakewood and African Blackwood. Both of these woods sink in water and are very hard, they can turn and finish almost like Delrin if the grain isn't squirrely.? Best Regards, Kevin from PersonMakeObject ? ?????? On Sat, Apr 15, 2023 at 7:28?PM old_toolmaker via <old_toolmaker=[email protected]> wrote: Hi Kevin, |
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Re: Why Unimat?
Nice handles!? I know the Unimat can bite, but I'd much rather have it do that then my Logan or Clausing!? I was turning between centers a few days ago and forgot about the dog arm spinning around.? It just barely kissed one of my knuckles- didn't even leave a mark, and am very grateful for that!?? -Dave
On Saturday, April 15, 2023 at 10:07:50 AM PDT, Kevin Groenke @ PersonMakeObject via groups.io <groen004@...> wrote:
I've been using 2) DB200's for a couple of years for light production of small brass hardware (~2000 pieces to date) for the knives I make. I've researched and considered many other lathes and equipment that might allow me to produce these parts more quickly, efficiently, safely and/or accurately, but I've concluded that the Unimat is close to ideal. Yes, a full on cnc turning center could knock them out in seconds per piece, but I'm not ever going to pay for such a machine or fit one down my basement stairs. Yes, a Hardinge, Levin, or Shaublin with collet closer and turret could be more accurate and efficient. I would greatly appreciate more rigidity and power that those machines would provide, but the Unimat's limitations also contribute to what makes it good for these parts. For example, I run the Unimat on a momentary foot pedal nearly all the time, and I grab the spinning pulley? to stop the spindle when switching out parts?(notice O-ring grip on large step). Those techniques?speed up processes significantly, but there's no way I'd do them on a bigger lather (even a 7 x X) because of the inherent risk (of course I know the Unimat is capable of hurting?me too). The compact size allows me to roll a stool under the lathe which also increases efficiency, and allows me to have separate machines for each set-up which I wouldn't have room for if bigger machines (so far I just have 1 mill and 1 lathe, but if I had 3 lathes and 2 mills I could produce parts start-to-finish instead of batching processes). So, YMMV, but for me the answer to "Why Unimat?" is - Because I haven't found anything that would be better for doing what I need done.? Best Regards, Kevin from PersonMakeObject ? ?????? On Wed, Apr 12, 2023, 9:59 AM Aaron Woods <awoods550@...> wrote: I don't have a Unimat. I'd like one but I already have several small lathes so getting one is simply a want rather than a need. |
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Re: Casting an aluminum motor mount for DC motor upgrade
Nice project!? I've had a furnace in the works for about 5 years now, but I keep needing to work on other things, so I forget about it until I'd like to cast something, then realize I can't yet.? One of these days... -Dave
On Saturday, April 15, 2023 at 04:49:59 PM PDT, Steve Johnson <steve@...> wrote:
I have almost two complete Unimat SLs, yet to be installed in my new micro shop (that is waiting to be built..). The 2nd machine, which I will set up for milling, will have a dc motor installed. I've seen examples of taking the dc motor apart and drilling new holes that would line up with the original Emco mount. But I thought I'd save the $65ish Ebay cost and make my own. Especially since I won't need the dog leg where the idler pulley would go. Too many concurrent projects of course - I still need to set up my foundry and cast some ingots, build a vacuum chamber to pull the air bubbles out of the plaster mold, and build a kiln to burnout the lost PLA that I am using as the positive for the mold. All new territory, but looking forward to it.? I'll post updates as I go. Here is the 3D print for the mount. If anyone is interested and has their own foundry/casting setup, I'm happy to share the design/STL files.? |
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Re: Why Unimat?
Kevin Groenke @ PersonMakeObject
Thanks Jay, I'm going to look back at your cnc posts! I would love to get a CNC machine set up with either another Unimat or a similar format machine. Interestingly,? I don't know if CNC would improve efficiency in production of the rectilinear blade holder parts as more time is spent in set-up and part handling than in actually turning cranks (and pulling my "rapid retract" belt), but I would love the?curve machining capability that?CNC would give me for other parts like the finial knobs. I've been following with some interest as the scale and capability seem like they could be a good fit. Best Regards, Kevin from PersonMakeObject ?? ?????? On Sat, Apr 15, 2023 at 12:12?PM Jay Perez <jay.perez1@...> wrote:
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Casting an aluminum motor mount for DC motor upgrade
I have almost two complete Unimat SLs, yet to be installed in my new micro shop (that is waiting to be built..). The 2nd machine, which I will set up for milling, will have a dc motor installed. I've seen examples of taking the dc motor apart and drilling new holes that would line up with the original Emco mount. But I thought I'd save the $65ish Ebay cost and make my own. Especially since I won't need the dog leg where the idler pulley would go.
Too many concurrent projects of course - I still need to set up my foundry and cast some ingots, build a vacuum chamber to pull the air bubbles out of the plaster mold, and build a kiln to burnout the lost PLA that I am using as the positive for the mold. All new territory, but looking forward to it.? I'll post updates as I go. Here is the 3D print for the mount. If anyone is interested and has their own foundry/casting setup, I'm happy to share the design/STL files.? |
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Fret saw drive eccentric differences?
Hey Gents and Tamra. My last fret saw was an alloy rectangular model and I¡¯m certain the round one has a smaller eccentric.
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Re: Why Unimat?
Very well said! They would not be sufficient for any number of things I'd want or need to do all by themselves. They are, however quite sufficient for many other things I would want or need to do. And they don't take up a great deal of space. I have a working Atlas TH42, a 10x24 lathe, as it were. It's working, and good for many of the things I want to do, but not everything. Got a couple of restoration project lathes as well. One is a very much larger, like more than 1000 pounds or a bit over 500 kilograms, not counting the stand, South Bend Heavy 10L toolroom lathe. Call it a 10x30 lathe. There's also the Smithy CB-1220XL 3-in-1 machine. Think of is as sort of a Unimat on steroids. ;) About 400lbs, and it will work as a drill press and milling machine, in addition to being a 12x20 lathe. All of them are perfect for some things and some people, and not one of them is perfect for everything. ;)? Got a couple of small milling machines, and a metal shaper, as well. I'm fortunate in having more space for such things than many folks have, though that isn't always as true as I'd like.? One real advantage of a small lathe like the Unimat, especially for someone who doesn't have room for much of anything else, is that you will get more skillful with it than I'm likely to get with any or all the machines I have. You only have to learn what one machine sounds like when it's happy, and unhappy.? Just for one small example. I've been a maintenance mechanic on equipment from small laundry machines to high performance fighter jets. What a machine sounds like is critical information for the maintainer! And the user/operator usually knows them well. A sudden and new high-pitched noise is usually a notification that something is going radically and catastrophically wrong! LOOK at your machine. Touch it when it's not being used, and again when it's been operating for some time. Smell it! And above all else, listen to it. It's helpful to know that the machine is functioning well, that your materials you're working are consistent, and that something is, or is not, quite right. You'll be able to hear those things if you know your machine well.? Also worked in a large industrial laundry with millions of dollars worth of many different machines, and I had to know what all of them sounded like. Both the operators and the folks who just worked near the machines got encouragement from me to know what the sounds in the area were when things were operating normally, and they helped me find and fix problems that could have damaged an expensive machine more that once! You can do that for yourself, and your machines.? Bill in OKC William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY! Physics doesn't care about your schedule. The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better. Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Saturday, April 15, 2023 at 12:03:25 PM CDT, Kevin Groenke @ PersonMakeObject via groups.io <groen004@...> wrote:
I've been using 2) DB200's for a couple of years for light production of small brass hardware (~2000 pieces to date) for the knives I make. I've researched and considered many other lathes and equipment that might allow me to produce these parts more quickly, efficiently, safely and/or accurately, but I've concluded that the Unimat is close to ideal. Yes, a full on cnc turning center could knock them out in seconds per piece, but I'm not ever going to pay for such a machine or fit one down my basement stairs. Yes, a Hardinge, Levin, or Shaublin with collet closer and turret could be more accurate and efficient. I would greatly appreciate more rigidity and power that those machines would provide, but the Unimat's limitations also contribute to what makes it good for these parts. For example, I run the Unimat on a momentary foot pedal nearly all the time, and I grab the spinning pulley? to stop the spindle when switching out parts?(notice O-ring grip on large step). Those techniques?speed up processes significantly, but there's no way I'd do them on a bigger lather (even a 7 x X) because of the inherent risk (of course I know the Unimat is capable of hurting?me too). The compact size allows me to roll a stool under the lathe which also increases efficiency, and allows me to have separate machines for each set-up which I wouldn't have room for if bigger machines (so far I just have 1 mill and 1 lathe, but if I had 3 lathes and 2 mills I could produce parts start-to-finish instead of batching processes). So, YMMV, but for me the answer to "Why Unimat?" is - Because I haven't found anything that would be better for doing what I need done.? Best Regards, Kevin from PersonMakeObject ? ?????? On Wed, Apr 12, 2023, 9:59 AM Aaron Woods <awoods550@...> wrote: I don't have a Unimat. I'd like one but I already have several small lathes so getting one is simply a want rather than a need. |
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Re: Why Unimat?
Hi Kevin, I have a couple of post in this forum about converting one of my two DB200 to CNC. It's not that difficult to do and would probably be a good fit for your application. Jay On Sat, Apr 15, 2023, 1:03 PM Kevin Groenke @ PersonMakeObject via <groen004=[email protected]> wrote:
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Re: Why Unimat?
Kevin Groenke @ PersonMakeObject
I've been using 2) DB200's for a couple of years for light production of small brass hardware (~2000 pieces to date) for the knives I make. I've researched and considered many other lathes and equipment that might allow me to produce these parts more quickly, efficiently, safely and/or accurately, but I've concluded that the Unimat is close to ideal. Yes, a full on cnc turning center could knock them out in seconds per piece, but I'm not ever going to pay for such a machine or fit one down my basement stairs. Yes, a Hardinge, Levin, or Shaublin with collet closer and turret could be more accurate and efficient. I would greatly appreciate more rigidity and power that those machines would provide, but the Unimat's limitations also contribute to what makes it good for these parts. For example, I run the Unimat on a momentary foot pedal nearly all the time, and I grab the spinning pulley? to stop the spindle when switching out parts?(notice O-ring grip on large step). Those techniques?speed up processes significantly, but there's no way I'd do them on a bigger lather (even a 7 x X) because of the inherent risk (of course I know the Unimat is capable of hurting?me too). The compact size allows me to roll a stool under the lathe which also increases efficiency, and allows me to have separate machines for each set-up which I wouldn't have room for if bigger machines (so far I just have 1 mill and 1 lathe, but if I had 3 lathes and 2 mills I could produce parts start-to-finish instead of batching processes). So, YMMV, but for me the answer to "Why Unimat?" is - Because I haven't found anything that would be better for doing what I need done.? Best Regards, Kevin from PersonMakeObject ? ?????? On Wed, Apr 12, 2023, 9:59 AM Aaron Woods <awoods550@...> wrote: I don't have a Unimat. I'd like one but I already have several small lathes so getting one is simply a want rather than a need. |
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Re: Quick Change Tool Post and Buddy Bar
I was unable to find the tool posts on Ebay, but was able to track Harry down and inquire about them. He is out of stock on the tool holders at the moment, in the process of making more. He'll let me know when the set is available again and I'll post an update to this thread.
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Steve Johnson
rcjge
OldToolmaker
Bill in OKC too