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Re: Unimat black crackle jig-saw

 

Mine is a horrid colour and I will repaint it, I have managed to find silver hammered. What colour logo did the original cast iron models have?
I dont have a logo on mine hopefully I can have a sticker printed, it will at least make me feel better
Re: 4 jaw chuck M12 x 1 thread

 

Get the Sherline chuck. They are better quality than the emco ones.
Re: Unimat black crackle jig-saw

 

I also have a red badged SL that has the Gray Hammered finish. And it is not uncommon for the motors to be a shade lighter then the lathe.
?Jeff


-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Jaynes <srjaynes@...>
To: Ruben <groen.drenthe@...>; [email protected]
Sent: Mon, Apr 3, 2023 9:52 pm
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Unimat black crackle jig-saw

I found the text from my discussion of Unimat Colors, circa 1999. ?Sorry, I haven't resurrected the photos, but will keep trying:


?

UNiMAT Colors

I have identified four distinct UNiMAT colors in my personal collection. ?I believe I have decoded how they relate to the different models of Unimats preceding the UNiMAT 3. I hope to have comparative pictures on this page by April 1999.
The colors I've identified as "factory finishes" are:
DB200 Hammer-finish Silver. Found on the original cast iron DB200's, this color often fades or stains to a "Champagne" color sometimes with a vague green tint.
UNiMAT DB200?Crinkle?Black?I detrmined the surface finish of this color is a "controlled" crinkling effect. ?In spite of fragile appearance, seems to be quite robust.?

UNiMAT SL - Model DB200 Hammer-finish Green?. Found on the early SL-DB200's this green has a pronounced blue cast contrasted with the SL1000 Hammer Finish Green which has a pronounced yellow cast. I have only seen one UNiMAT SL - Model DB200 painted entirely this color. This color is reserved for the U90 motors on many UNiMAT SL - Model DB200 's and UNiMAT SL1000's.
UNiMAT SL1000 Hammer-finish Green?As mentioned above, UNiMAT SL1000's have a hammer finished green which has a pronounced yellow cast or pea-Green appearance.
--
Steve Jaynes
Unimat owner/collector since 1995, all generations.

Re: Unimat black crackle jig-saw

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Thanks very much Pat for the information. Looks like those eccentrics more often are missing now than present ?

?

Was making the cam for mine out of brass and, like you, the shaft in steel. I¡¯m still on my first attempt and being lazy I designed the piece empirically. Would be grateful to receive your pictures and instructions...

?

Friendly regards,

Alan

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of pat goodyear
Sent: Tuesday, April 4, 2023 2:53 AM
To: Alan Ehrlich <alan.ehrlich@...>; [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Unimat black crackle jig-saw

?

Alan,?
I too received a fret saw without the eccentric and without the drive cam, I made both on my Unimat.? ?It is documented on this site, If you can't find it let me know and i will send you pictures and instructions.? ? I used a chunk of Grade 5 ASE bolt as the base.? And a block of aluminium for the drive cam.? ??

pat?

Re: Unimat black crackle jig-saw

 

I found the text from my discussion of Unimat Colors, circa 1999. ?Sorry, I haven't resurrected the photos, but will keep trying:


?

UNiMAT Colors

I have identified four distinct UNiMAT colors in my personal collection. ?I believe I have decoded how they relate to the different models of Unimats preceding the UNiMAT 3. I hope to have comparative pictures on this page by April 1999.

The colors I've identified as "factory finishes" are:

DB200 Hammer-finish Silver. Found on the original cast iron DB200's, this color often fades or stains to a "Champagne" color sometimes with a vague green tint.

UNiMAT DB200?Crinkle?Black?I detrmined the surface finish of this color is a "controlled" crinkling effect. ?In spite of fragile appearance, seems to be quite robust.?

UNiMAT SL - Model DB200 Hammer-finish Green?. Found on the early SL-DB200's this green has a pronounced blue cast contrasted with the SL1000 Hammer Finish Green which has a pronounced yellow cast. I have only seen one UNiMAT SL - Model DB200 painted entirely this color. This color is reserved for the U90 motors on many UNiMAT SL - Model DB200 's and UNiMAT SL1000's.

UNiMAT SL1000 Hammer-finish Green?As mentioned above, UNiMAT SL1000's have a hammer finished green which has a pronounced yellow cast or pea-Green appearance.

--
Steve Jaynes
Unimat owner/collector since 1995, all generations.
Re: Unimat black crackle jig-saw

 

EARLY in my Unimat collecting days, I read that the "Sears Roebuck" Unimats and accessories were, for some period of time, shipped in the Black Crackle finish. ?That said, "mixed" sets may or may not had some pieces purchased from Sears and other pieces purchased from other dealers. ?Hobby Shops, Edmund Scientific, and least Sears, sold the Unimat product line in the various shades of Hammered Green. ?The Crackle and Hammered finishes are quite different. ?At one time, In my old web site, I had different factory finishes photographed. ?I'm committed to other projects right now, but I'll try to resurrect those photos and post them here.
?
--
Steve Jaynes ?AKA "Tiny Lathe Man" which is a mysterious moniker considering I'm 6' and 270lbs...
Unimat owner/collector since 1995, all generations.
Re: Unimat black crackle jig-saw

 

Alan,?
I too received a fret saw without the eccentric and without the drive cam, I made both on my Unimat.? ?It is documented on this site, If you can't find it let me know and i will send you pictures and instructions.? ? I used a chunk of Grade 5 ASE bolt as the base.? And a block of aluminium for the drive cam.? ??

pat?
Re: 4 jaw chuck M12 x 1 thread

 

Thank you Bill for sharing your advice and experience!?

I don't have much equipment so looking to get started first.

I didn't know about emco being Cast iron vs steel for the sherline.?

Once my skill level improves I hope to make a collet holder ;)?

On Sun, Apr 2, 2023, 10:19 AM Bill in OKC too via <wmrmeyers=[email protected]> wrote:
Depends very much on condition. A like-new Enco chuck is probably made of cast iron, IIRC. Drop it on a concrete floor just once, and it can turn to crap. Cast iron is a bit brittle, and easily broken.? One of our other members is trying to repair his Enco chuck because he dropped it, and the teeth that guide one of the jaws chipped off.? The Sherline chucks are made from case-hardened 12L14 steel. It's a bit tougher, but the L is a small percentage of lead in the alloy, so it's not as hard and tough as 1214 steel would be. IF you can find one for the same price as the other, either would do just fine unless you're getting clumsy. I am, myself, so a cheaper and easier to replace chuck was one of the considerations when I bought my Indian 4-jaw. I can replace it three more times for the cost of an Enco chuck. I'm also a cheap bastrich! I hate spending a lot of money for stuff that may not be in really good shape. A bunch of the stuff I need/want for my Unimats, I'm making myself. Not sure my skills are up to making a 4-jaw chuck from scratch just yet. :) Did make an ER25 collet chuck, though, adapted from one of the ER25 collet chuck extensions like this one:??Though the one I used came from eBay, and had a 100mm shank length.?

One way for a cheap bastrich like me to deal would be to make your own 4-jaw chuck, and such, to fit the Unimat, but based on David Gingery's Build Your Own Metalworking Shop From Scrap, Volume 6 of? 7, The Dividing Head and Deluxe Accessories.?

Depends on what you know, what you would like to learn, and how much of a hurry you're in to get to where you want to be. Buying everything is faster, making everything is slower, but you learn more. A little of each is probably the best way to go, and only you can figure out which parts work best for you. Also perhaps depends on what equipment you have already, and definitely on what skills you have. I cheated a few years ago, and took a precision manual machining class, since I'd forgotten most everything from the class I took in high school nearly 50 years ago now. Been doing non-machining for a lot of that time, as well as working as several kinds of mechanics over the past five decades, but there were some big holes in my knowledge. Accurate measurement was the biggie for me. But I got better! ;)

Bill in OKC?


William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.



On Saturday, April 1, 2023 at 08:17:59 PM CDT, jpow <powster@...> wrote:


Hi all,?

Assuming I had the choice between an older (but good condition) emco original chuck, or a brand new sherline, for the same price.?

Which should I get??


Thanks!?

Re: Unimat black crackle jig-saw

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Gorgeous!

?

Thanks too, VERY much for including the fret saw¡¯s eccentric wheel in your photos. That bit was missing from mine and I never before managed to find a pix of it. Thought the form would be scalloped like for the later versions. Seeing now it was completely cylindrical, I could have saved myself a bunch of ¡®trouble¡¯ when I reproduced it ?

?

Friendly regards,

Alan

?

Alan Ehrlich

Geneva, Switzerland

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Ruben
Sent: Sunday, April 2, 2023 10:09 AM
To: Ruben <groen.drenthe@...>; [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Unimat black crackle jig-saw

?

Most important for me is the Unimat MK2a with mill collumn and I think original.
The black crackle paint is in perfect condition and the 2 rods (bars) didn't see that much use as the other unimat's I have? seen.

The motor paint looks bad and has no plug on it, so I stil have to find out if it runs.
It is an early 40w model with number: 3798
The motor pully is missing.

Re: 4 jaw chuck M12 x 1 thread

 

Keith,

Both the 3-jaw and 4-jaw chucks for my DB200 are original and have backplates. Perhaps you're thinking of the Unimat 3 (or later SL chucks?).
Re: Unimat black crackle jig-saw

 

Most important for me is the Unimat MK2a with mill collumn and I think original.
The black crackle paint is in perfect condition and the 2 rods (bars) didn't see that much use as the other unimat's I have? seen.

The motor paint looks bad and has no plug on it, so I stil have to find out if it runs.
It is an early 40w model with number: 3798
The motor pully is missing.
Re: Unimat black crackle jig-saw

 

Yes correct, what i meant is I coudn¡¯t find a black crackle one online. So I it was a surprise to me when it turnt out black.
The photo¡¯s the seller put online where so bad that almost everything in the box was a gues.
I visit him to take a look, and off course I took it home.
Re: 4 jaw chuck M12 x 1 thread

 

Depends very much on condition. A like-new Enco chuck is probably made of cast iron, IIRC. Drop it on a concrete floor just once, and it can turn to crap. Cast iron is a bit brittle, and easily broken.? One of our other members is trying to repair his Enco chuck because he dropped it, and the teeth that guide one of the jaws chipped off.? The Sherline chucks are made from case-hardened 12L14 steel. It's a bit tougher, but the L is a small percentage of lead in the alloy, so it's not as hard and tough as 1214 steel would be. IF you can find one for the same price as the other, either would do just fine unless you're getting clumsy. I am, myself, so a cheaper and easier to replace chuck was one of the considerations when I bought my Indian 4-jaw. I can replace it three more times for the cost of an Enco chuck. I'm also a cheap bastrich! I hate spending a lot of money for stuff that may not be in really good shape. A bunch of the stuff I need/want for my Unimats, I'm making myself. Not sure my skills are up to making a 4-jaw chuck from scratch just yet. :) Did make an ER25 collet chuck, though, adapted from one of the ER25 collet chuck extensions like this one:??Though the one I used came from eBay, and had a 100mm shank length.?

One way for a cheap bastrich like me to deal would be to make your own 4-jaw chuck, and such, to fit the Unimat, but based on David Gingery's Build Your Own Metalworking Shop From Scrap, Volume 6 of? 7, The Dividing Head and Deluxe Accessories.?

Depends on what you know, what you would like to learn, and how much of a hurry you're in to get to where you want to be. Buying everything is faster, making everything is slower, but you learn more. A little of each is probably the best way to go, and only you can figure out which parts work best for you. Also perhaps depends on what equipment you have already, and definitely on what skills you have. I cheated a few years ago, and took a precision manual machining class, since I'd forgotten most everything from the class I took in high school nearly 50 years ago now. Been doing non-machining for a lot of that time, as well as working as several kinds of mechanics over the past five decades, but there were some big holes in my knowledge. Accurate measurement was the biggie for me. But I got better! ;)

Bill in OKC?


William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.



On Saturday, April 1, 2023 at 08:17:59 PM CDT, jpow <powster@...> wrote:


Hi all,?

Assuming I had the choice between an older (but good condition) emco original chuck, or a brand new sherline, for the same price.?

Which should I get??


Thanks!?

Re: 4 jaw chuck M12 x 1 thread

 

Hi all,?

Assuming I had the choice between an older (but good condition) emco original chuck, or a brand new sherline, for the same price.?

Which should I get??


Thanks!?
Re: Unimat black crackle jig-saw

 

Here is your saw, phot attached.
Also:?https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N44c_Y2VwqA

Unimat early scroll saw.jpg

Re: Unimat black crackle jig-saw

 

Pretty nifty! I've got a Dremel scroll saw, but it's relatively huge, and takes up quite a bit of space. Also relatively heavy! About 8 or 10 times the volume of a Unimat, and probably 50 or 60lbs. It was cheap, and I thought I could use it, but it's been sitting there cluttering up my shop for 15 years or so, now. ;)? Yours won't do everything mine will do, but it looks like it's a lot more likely to get put to use. Once upon a time, I did jewelry work, and either would have certainly come in handy. I don't know if I'll ever get back to that sort of work, though.?

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.



On Saturday, April 1, 2023 at 10:53:19 AM CDT, Ruben <groen.drenthe@...> wrote:


This Jig-saw or fred-saw came this week with my new Unimat MK2a.
I was not able to find any picture's online and made some to share.
Unimat black crackle jig-saw

 

This Jig-saw or fred-saw came this week with my new Unimat MK2a.
I was not able to find any picture's online and made some to share.
Re: 4 jaw chuck M12 x 1 thread

 

On Fri, Mar 31, 2023 at 10:28 PM, Bill in OKC too wrote:
There is enough metal there you could skim off much of the back of the chuck, and make a? back plate for it, too.?
Apart from the fact that you don't need absolute concentricity with a four jaw, since, as already noted, the whole point is that you can adjust for any eccentricity, the original Unimat chucks didn't have a back plate and ran very true. Also, if you want to machine it for a back plate then you have to be able to mount the chuck very accurately to make sure the recess you cut is precisely concentric with the cuck body. To do this you would need to set it up in a four jaw chuck - but that's the one you want to machine!

The obsession with backplates should be ignored. My most accurate 3 jaw chuck, on my U3, gives a runout of half a thou (0.0005", about 0.01 mm) and has no backplate. My ER16 & 25 collet holders are better than that, and do not have back plates. There's this thing called precision. It deals with the problems.
Re: 4 jaw chuck M12 x 1 thread

 

I believe the OEM 4jaw chucks were cast iron. These are good chucks but care must be used with them because cast iron can break if abused. The teeth that mesh with the adjustment screws are most prone to resultant damage due to careless operation.
Dick
Re: 4 jaw chuck M12 x 1 thread

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hello John:

Look for one of all steel, not die cast pot metal. I tried a pot metal chuck on a Unimat 1 ( the aluminum/plastic 12 volt toy ) and would not trust to hold more than wood.

Spend the money on the M12x1 tap, and any chuck can be made to fit.

Carl.

On 3/31/2023 5:15 PM, John Hutnick wrote:

So is the idea to buy the cheap made in India 4 jaw chuck on Ebay, and not Sherline?

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