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There are a lot of cast iron sewing machine bases that are not nearly as sturdy but easy to find (and scaled appropriately) John [email protected]> wrote:

I have several pictures that were sent to me a few years back by a group member of a riser base with integral enclosure to mount the Unimat lathe. It was made from a cast iron wood lathe base and was

John, I was able to get behind the pulley with a small pair of die bars to get the pulley off after I heated it. Dick

I also heated the pulley, but with a very small flame from air-acetylene torch. I needed a gear puller(just bought from Ebay) to do the job. [email protected]> wrote:

Once I got into the project of removing the timing belt pulley I found out the pulley was not black plastic but what appeared to be some type of sintered metal that was Locktited onto the motor

I examined my motors closer and found my job removing the toothed pulley will be much easier than I first thought. The motor shaft has a flat on one side and a groove all the way around. The pulle

The motor I used for my SL had a steel toothed belt pulley fitted, probably with Loctite. We set it up in a press to push the shaft out, and it took a bit of force. I suspect if we'd applied a bit of

Keith, The motors I purchased have toothed pulleys molded onto the motor shaft. I suppose I could set the armature up and turn the plastic pulley off so I can mount a standard Unimat pulley or more

Doug supplies sets of two or three belts, depending on whether you have the low speed pulley or not, for DB/SL and U3, all made to fit. I have been using them for a few years now with no signs of

Hi Gang: Don't forget the Harbor Freight belt! Carl. https://www.harborfreight.com/replacement-belt-for-the-dual-drum-rotary-rock-tumbler-93835.html?_br_psugg_q=rock+tumbler+belt

Thank you.

try http://unimat.homestead.com/ Carl Lantz

*Keith, * I did a search on EBay for Unimat belts Doug Feistamel and it did not return anything useful. Do you by chance know the Seller’s Web address? Dick

Keith, Thanks for the advice on the drive belts. I have both standard and low speed pulley assemblies. I also have a 10 foot roll of 3/16” clear polyurethane belting from McMaster-Carr. I plan on

Modern polyurethane belts give loads of grip (get a set from Doug Feistamel), so you don't need toothed belts.The desire for toothed belts comes from one of the older books where the author goes to

Jeff, I noticed your White Buna N belt. In thinking about the belt, I wonder how well a toothed belt and corresponding pulley would work? Is there a good reason why stepped pulleys would still be

I'm sure the data is online. The only thing I can tell you is you need a resistor added to match your motor if they're still the same. They are a bridge rectifier. Neil

There is a way to protect the speed controller from reversing too quickly. You feed the output through a bridge rectifier. Connect the speed controller to the AC inputs, and use the +/- outputs as

It's not.upgraded to CNC. The owner has just added a power feed using a stepper motor.? But that won't really work with the longer rails. Regards Steven

I went to Maker Space in Melbourne Fl today to do some woodturning. (http://www.melbournemakerspace.org/) I saw this Unimat lathe sitting on a table. Don't know any other details yet. Looks like it