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Hi Reg, Thank you for your comment - I was drawn to the unimat because it's the perfect size for 2mm/ft scale which is what I normally model in, and I got the unimat in a good deal from a chap in the

Thank you Edward, I've looked at the instructions for the Edestaal cannon: /g/Unimat/files/Edelstaal%20Parrot%20Rifle%20Cannon%20kit I've got lots of questions (how to measure the

One of the early jobs I did with my Unimat was to make a new capped stack for an On2 model locomotive. ?It involved turning, as well as drilling and tapping on the lathe. ?I would consider adding a

Hi William, I have no specific recommendations for you but here are my two cents worth and that may not be worth much but I will try. I learn the best by a combination of reading and actual hands on.

Go through the book "Projects for the Unimat" also in the files section and build some of the projects from that....possibly brass mallet, nice Tommy bars using hex stock brass for the handles and

Try doing something like the old Unimat supplied kits.? Do not waste tons of money on the kit itself, go to the files section and download the instructions and order your metals from a local supplier

Hello William: I might suggest the locomotive construction books of Kozo Hiraoka, Five books in all, available from the Village Press. His plans show how to build without castings, using silver solder

Well, you're in luck, as there are several active members who are also model railroaders. And then there is Tamra, who builds scale dollhouses and the like, and who has been through a several-years

Hello there, I’ve got a Unimat SL with a few accessories - namely a four jaw chuck, milling attachmen, a drill chuck with a set of 1/4” HSS tools and some centre drills. I’ve had a bit of a play

Many thank's Dave and Roman for the good idea (and the photos)? !! i'll do this ! -- Lio, France - Unimat SL x 3

When in doubt, one at each end. They may serve to stop the rotor rubbing against the moter ends. Are they dished or flat or ?? Neil ----- [email protected]> wrote:

Look for wear patterns on the washers and match them to the parts. They will have? polished circle sections on the faces and you look at what you have to see what matches up to it. It is like putting

Thanks, I am going to try putting it together with one on each end to start and see where this goes. We will see soon!

To be honest, I only know what I know about motors from reading online and years of tinkering. I am an engineer, but not electrical. Anyway, I think at some point I also needed to know where the

Thank you for getting back with me Martin. ?I need to know how to place the thrust washers on the armature. ?I only have 2 of them and not sure if one goes on each end, or due to electric theory and

Hello, and welcome! I am, I believe, one of only a few members who have the induction motor. Being an induction type, there are very few parts. The field, rotor, fan, capacitor, and maybe some thrust

Hi, new to this forum and have a very old cast iron DB200 I am restoring that was given to me. ?The only problem is that everything is in parts, including the motor. ?I am close to being done with

Not to mention the tail stock assy makes a nice steadying clamp for the ways. alf,

John, A few years ago I made a full set of way bars from Thompson linear way material. I never used them and still have them. The smaller diameter 8 mm bars were made longer to facilitate mounting a

In the past, Ebay seller "hkoesnadi" sold a machined dial indicator holder that clamped across the rods, which added some rigidity. He is not currently selling any items on Ebay, but you can write and