I'm wondering what is the command to have it say that its fixed? Currently it says mic-e where a normal digi says fixed, unsure if i can put details on the power and the antenna direction also my station says s instead of p when receiving packets on my ft2dr. I want to get this right since its going to be solar up in no mans land without access for months at a time. Current config as of now. the bperiod will change before it goes up the mtn. Any help is greatly appreciated!

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Yes, it's an active antenna with 28dB gain also.?

I've been using several mag mount GPS antennas but just didn't like the coax across the roof and in through the doorframe. I much prefer the small antenna permanently mounted in the center of the roof.

Last stop is a $13 GPS antenna with SMA connector from Amazon. I popped some of the plastic off around the windows and was able to pull the headliner down enough to safely drill a hole for the antenna. My truck is black, as is the antenna so I had to point out the newly installed antenna to my wife, I guess that's a good thing.

My favorite way to connect is the Littelfuse tap. A clean and safe way to connect to 12V through a fuse. Since the TT3+ draws so little current I'm using 18ga wire.

When in doubt look for the simple.
It was operator error, I had missed that the GKRELAY parameters were flipped between the Banks.
Works as intended now.?
Back to this Pi Zero config as an I-Gate and fill-in digi with TT4.? AP will provided shared TNC access to DroidAPRS, YAAC on a SBC

Yes, I found a mica TO-220 insulator, which did not work.

It's the U2 mounting screw that is completing the circuit. I'll dig around for a plastic screw and nut set next.

Have you considered a piece of insulation under U2 such that it covers the trace that us being shorted?

Mystery solved...

It appears that on the latest batch of boards (mine, at least) the large hole in the center of the board has shifted so that the trace that goes from U1 pin 11 to D5 is shorted to the large plated through hole. (see arrow for location). This connects the large ground plane area on the other side to pin 11 also, so when the screw and nut are installed on U2 it grounds pin 11 and creates the stuck PTT that I experienced.

So U2 will remain floating above the board and all is good.

I found a couple of old-style hook switches, the ones with a microswitch inside.. Two for $10 on eBay.

This should do the trick.

Yes, I'm a bit baffled too. Yes I checked all the soldering. Orientation of D5 and D6 was correct.

With "No TX on PTT In" unchecked it caused the radio to transmit and the red LED came on. As soon as I wrote the config with "No TX on PTT in"? the red LED extinguished and the radio unkeyed. While in this mode it would not send regular messages or bulletins, but if I had it send audio tones that function worked correctly. That tells me the PTT circuit is working correctly.

With D5 removed and U1 removed pin 11 was still shorted. The only thing then connected to pin 11 was the trace going to D5, which goes under U2.

The only explanation that makes any sense is that there was a small bump on the trace that pierced the solder mask and it touched the grounded back of U2.?

I'll go back and look at that trace with a fine tooth comb; at the time I was a bit frazzled and didn't do it.

The topic name caught my interest, I have a small fleet of 898s for APRS. And I've played with thousands of hook switches in a 40 year 2-way radio career.

I have a FT-7900 in my truck and was trying to figure the best way to control my new TinyTrak3+

So now I'll look for a hookswitch on eBay, When it's on hook it'll power the TT3+, when I pull the mike off hook it'll kill the power.

That way I'll never put out a squawk when I'm on 146.52

?

I finished assembling my first TinyTrak3+ yesterday and the radio cable arrived today.

When I hooked it up (GPS hasn't arrived yet) it powered up OK, but it was stuck in transmit. If I checked "No Tx While PTT In" in the config, and then the stuck xmtr problem went away, but it would never transmit. It looked like U1 pin 11 was stuck low, but even removing D5 didn't help. Finally, I removed U1 and found pin 11 still low. Really? Eventually I loosened U2 and the short went away. I couldn't see exactly what caused the short, I'll chalk it up to a micro-meteorite. But until I get a TO-220 insulator it's going to remain lifted up a bit.?

This has probably been answered before on the old message board, I'm new here and had little to search. So I'm posting this for some poor soul in the future.?

Glad you had fun with WeeWx.? You'd likely have to write an extension to import your data but it'll do lots of stuff once the data is in.

I used the CWOP interface just briefly, I generally export it to an APRS program and TNC.

Good luck!