Thanks, everybody!
BobH

There are 13.5 MHz (ISM band) Metcals and (cheaper) units that run at a lower freq. I only have the MX500 (qty 2) which is a 13.5 MHz version. These have F-connectors.

The other models have a different connector so I am inclined to "if the connector fits it will work".

Wilko

I have three power supplies, a PS2E01, an RFG-30, and an MX500P. The RFG30 seems to be the less enhanced model (one connector and no lights).? AFAIK, they all have the same frequency (Metcal does have a different system of tips and irons, not sure about them). I haven't had a problem with any of the power supplies and the Metcal irons.? I do suggest that the Thermaltronics Irons have a very slightly different barrel length on the tips and may not mate properly.?? Had to return one.? Put the latest iron in the PS2E01, (superior, handle runs cooler) and it fits just fine.? I think that the basic Metcal system is 30 Mhz.

Some of the newer models have more power, but may be designed to run two handpieces at the same time (desoldering and soldering). I use the PS2 to run the vacuum desoldering gun and the standard pencil at the same time, but since it's switched, I have to wait. I am considering running two of the supplies with an SMT desoldering tip in one, and the standard tip in the other.

I have not had a probem switching metcal irons, handpieces, and power supplies amongst the ones I have mentioned.

Harvey

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Hi,
I picked up an Metcal PS2E-01 power supply at a hamfest recently. It did not come with an iron. I tried the iron from my MX500P system and it heated up to soldering temperature and seemed OK. There is a 1993 dated test sticker on the supply, so it is not a recent model.
Metcal has sold several different appearing power supplies, and I am wondering if the irons are compatible from model to model? Connector compatibility seems like kind of a risky metric for this kind of thing. Does anybody know if there are differences in output power or frequency between models?

Thanks,
BobH
KE7FEF

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I'm not sure if this is applicable, but there is an "HN" type connector, which is a slightly larger "N" connector designed for higher power than a regular "N" connector. I think I have a few male type in my stash.
Ray, W4BYG

Hi all, some help needed please.

I have recently acquired a nice high power RF balun, ex Mod. Rediffusion 12054B. I have been told it was used on a HF set on a Royal Navy Frigate.

It has 3 RF Connectors, the 2 inputs for 12.5R & 25R are PL259 types, the output at 50R is a large connector i know not which.

It is not an N Connector but looks similar. The outside diameter is 18.9mm (0.7440").

Can anyone id this connector for me please

-- 
"If you want to build a strong house, I'll give you my engineer's number. 
 If you want to build a strong life, I'll introduce you to my carpenter."
  Lebron and Heather Lackey

That was quick , thankyou i've just looked at the Amphenol catalogue drawing and it seems like the one.

Thanks Again Michael.

Hi all, some help needed please.

I have recently acquired a nice high power RF balun, ex Mod. Rediffusion 12054B. I have been told it was used on a HF set on a Royal Navy Frigate.

It has 3 RF Connectors, the 2 inputs for 12.5R & 25R are PL259 types, the output at 50R is a large connector i know not which.

It is not an N Connector but looks similar. The outside diameter is 18.9mm (0.7440").

Can anyone id this connector for me please

Jeff,

in the way back bad old days when networks (CBS, ABC, NBC) actually did live broadcast you could use their color burst as a frequency reference (subject to several caveats though) because they generated the burst signal from a Cesium Beam standard. NBS (well NIST now) used to publish a bulletin weekly that showed many of the LF radio stations including WWV and the broadcast networks calculated frequency error from, if memory serves, the Navel Observatory. ?In our lab we used Jim Creek Washington on 18.6KHz for our in house standard. Ahhhhh the Fluke 207 what a device

anyway more trivia found on Silicon Slough

Steve

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Your friend is simply wrong. There were no math errors. A small shift was necessary to accommodate a spectral interleaving of the chroma and luminance signals with practical (cheap) circuits. The shift in line and frame rates was small enough to permit backwards compatibility with monochrome sets.

It was surprising the mechanical spinning disk system ever made it to market. The imagery was not bad but having the outer disk speed was fairly fast. And the drive motors were not exactly quiet. A lot of female customers complained about the noise from the disk and the mechanical vibration that frequently occurred in the flyback transformer at 17,734 Hertz. Yeah women could hear it.

Another wart in early three gun color crt technology was adjustment of the screen purity for round crts. Early color crts used steel bells which flared to matched the crt face plate. Unlike later crts which used layers of aquadag to form the high voltage filter capacitor, the metal bell crts used doorknob capacitors and the whole crt bell was run at about 22 KV. The purity was adjusted by rotating magnets positioned around the edge of glass faceplate adjacent to the crt bell. The last one I worked on had 12 magnets and you best be extra careful or the shop owner would get a phone call about the foul mouth service tech sent to her home. getting a jolt of 22 KV while adjusting purity was a right of passage in the 50's.? And those doorknob capacitors stored a grunch of current. The later glass bell crts which used the conductive aquadag to form the HV Filter capacitor did not hurt as much when you accidentally came in contact. It still hurt, but not like a high Q doorknob dumping every last electron unimpeded into a finger tip. Aye Chihauhua!

Then there were the pets. In particular cats, and especially Siamese cats. I had removed one (a Siamese cat) from the inside of a customer's console color television several times while serving the set with the back off. Motorla used nickel plated steel pins inserted into the printed circuit board in that particualr model, then wrapped the interconnecting wires around the pins using wire wrap techniques. And they stuck straight up, just waiting for a careless finger. Nothing like impaling your finger tip on one and feeling the crude finish drag against the inside of your finger as you pulled back. Back to the cat.

I asked the owner to help keep him away from the set while I had the back off, as I feared he would be injured. I could just imagine the damage that bugger could do if he stepped on the bed of those wire wrap terminals in the chassis. She removed the cat and I proceeded to change out a tube here and there. I had just inserted one tube, plugged in the ac power (cheater) cord to power the set up and turned to reach into the tube caddy for a long skinny screwdriver, when there was a squall from a creature in pain. The cat had returned, crawled in with my back turned and apparently found a B Boost (about 800 volt DC) terminal. I saw a blur as the cat left at light speed, and just sat speechless over the carnage the cat had inflicted on that poor television. IF Cans, coil forms, laid over broken, tube pins were bent so badly I feared straightening them. Several wires were torn loose. The cat survived, but he did not intrude again during that visit. And I explained to an insurance agent how the customer's cat destroyed a color television.