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Jared and all, Well, I'm happy I held onto that cork. The error is back, essentially the same (regarding U208), just a slightly different address. I'm thinking I may need to recheck that U208 for

Good to hear ypu got it working! Removing the front panel plastic is easy, just grab to top edge and curl your fingers along the back edge at the top and firmly but carefully lift and pull forward,

SPC test also completed successfully. Radu. [email protected]> wrote:

There's one issue left, though. One of the buttons on the side of the screen - the one on the right side at the top - is not working well. There's no feel of actuation, so there's something mechanical

Update on this. (I'm starting to register some success working through my backlog of projects) The second hypothesis above proved to be correct. Running a bunch of self tests seemed to point to errors

Attach thenn to your message, or upload them to a website like Dropbox or other free service and provide a link. <llaassllaaass@...> wrote:

I found a setting of thunderbird to show attachments inline and turned it on. Do you use thunderbird? If you are meaning creating an attachment, same question: Do you use thunderbird? Otherwise,

Other people get their pictures on their posts. ?I don't what I did wrong. ?Any help?? Thank you, ? ? ? ? larry

I have a new microscope; It needs shelf space in my study. I also have an old Tektronix 485 in excellent condition. I have not used it in a number of years; replaced its usage with a 2465B and a

No problem Greg. I'm sure you're not the only one who's misidentified something wearing the wrong (or no) glasses in the past! ( I've done it myself in the not too distant past! ) My advice re fault

Well, after my last post stating that the drawing in the manual was wrong, I put on my new glasses and realized my error.? After having this scope all these years I had it fixed in my mind that it

Thank you all for the input.? I think this will be a long-term project to figure out the problem. I designed a 3d printed spacer to allow me to place the scope face down.? I opened it up this

I have a 485 carcass out in the shop. If you need something off of it let me know. Free plus shipping in priority mail box. I’m about to pitch it after I remove any undamaged knobs. Chris W9RP

Those are nice 'scopes!? Well worth repairing. You probably need to check the CRT circuit, especially the DC restorer circuitry (diodes and capacitors) that handles the control grid, and possibly

[email protected]> wrote: There are too many 15V tant beads across the 13V PSU line. That PSU line is "hidden" in that it is not on the PSU schematic, but is on the interconnection schematic 17,

I am not familiar with the 485, but surely with an uncontrolled brightness fault, the first place to start is to measure the CRT grid to cathode voltage. Many scopes have a 100v Zener diode sitting

You can download the manual from here: https://w140.com/tekwiki/images/1/15/070-1193-00.pdf

When I had to open my 485, I put it face down on a pillow on my lap to protect the knobs. Not elegant, but it worked. --John Gord

I believe the DC restorer diodes (and maybe capacitors) are the common culprit for loss of intensity control. Assuming it's similar to my 475, I lost intensity control and retrace blanking due to

The covers for the 465 and 475 are smaller vertically than those for the 485. They will not fit. I've owned all three 'scopes at one time or