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I like to use high brightness LED's with a current limiting resistor sized to bring the brightness waaaay way down. I have found that often with 'normal' brightness LED's, the colour doesn't shine

Well, it looks like LED it is (see /g/TekScopes2/photo/278771/3494775?p=Created%2C%2C%2C20%2C2%2C0%2C0, where the solder looks dull, which is some artifact of the picture). Anyway, I

The following photos have been uploaded to the SG 502 Repair ( /g/TekScopes2/album?id=278771 ) album of the [email protected] group. * bulb.JPG (

Thanks Radu, Ill take a look at this one seems relatively straight forward and reversible, If need be. Zen Sent: Monday, September 26, 2022 11:19 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes2]

Zen: https://w140.com/tekwiki/images/5/50/Tek_SG502_Low_Distortion_Mods.pdf

No I have not done any of the low distortion mods to the 502’s in the lab but I am now curious as to what these entail. I popped mine open tonight and found I used a 10K resister to calm the LED

How could I miss it: [image: image.png] 7220 bulb, 26mA @ 18V... Radu. [email protected]> wrote:

One concern I do have with my grain of rice bulb is it wants 60mA. The entire plugin I recall reading somewhere - can't find it now - needs 70mA, so I'm a bit weary of raising the current through the

Zen - glad to see you here! Yes, a very cute unit. I'm looking forward to checking it closer against my instrumentation - such as looking at its distortion through the AP S1. Also, checking the levels

Does it look like this? https://www.interlightus.com/light-bulb/LIGHT-BULB-LAMP-346 Glenn

I LEDed mine when it went out. If I remember correctly, I used a fairly high current limiting resister because the LED was so bright it needed to be cut back quite a bit. Glad to hear everything is

Hi all, Does anyone have information on the correct power lamp for this unit? I can't find that info - all I can find in the manual is it being a "DS346." Thank you, Radu.

Well, I had no symptoms yet to file, as until tonight I didn't get a chance to even plug it in. Visually, the only clear issue I was seeing prior to tonight was the detached C160 (one leg was simply

what is symptom? never replace timing caps suspect the usual range switches, possible PS shorted rants. Clean controls and trimmers Should be simple to debug Jon

It should also be noted that if it is a timing cap tek sold the timing caps as a set, ratio stability is importent here not absolute value. Should NOT be replaced unless proven beyond a doubt bad.

I suppose the most likely way is the -15V supply provides all of the power to the HV transformer, and as such is full of ripple. The -15V is used all over the rest of the scope. To keep the ripple

Hi folks, Checking the SM I discovered that there is a procedure specific to adjust the gain and centering the message display which is CAL07. I have two questions: 1 - SM stats that CAL07 should be

Also Jared, in your video you show some TDS544A schematics labeled VintageTek, but their web site doesn't show any way to get these. How did you get them? Reinhard

Thanks Jared! So, where, how do I get one of your testers, or the PCB and parts list? Or at the least, what pins are the front panel on/off button so the supply can be turned on on the bench? Reinhard

C160 is Sprague type 113D which listed as high stability, low leakage tantalex foil 85°C tolerance +30/-15%. Likely a timing circuit premium component. ?I would reattach it, ?debug all other issues