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Re: 7A29 - input switch lubrication
Ragu: Bonjour,
Search both TEKscopes at Groups.io and EEVblog as well. Look for Tektronix cam switches/vert attenuators/7A29 1/ The PCB and atten modules are damaged by most cleaning INCLUDING deoxit, tuner cleaner as the PCB has polysolfone. 2/ We use ONLY 99% Isopropyl alcohol SPARINGLY, open up to expose the bifurcated switch fingers (DO NOT DISASSEMBLE CAM, SHAFT!) and use a clean lint free paper or business card, a drop of alchol. 3/ NEVER use any oil, petroleum product Deoxit, etc to "lubricate" the cam switch's do no need it and the contacts will be contaminated. Bon Chance Jon |
Re: 7A29 - input switch lubrication
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýRadu, ????????????? I used a small bit of sewing machine oil on my. But mine just needed to rollers lubricated. I have hear others needed to service the plungers as well. I have not needed to take apart my attenuator yet. As with all things periodic exercise is good for even test equipment. ? Zen ? From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Radu Bogdan Dicher
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2023 4:39 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [TekScopes2] 7A29 - input switch lubrication ? Hi all, |
7A29 - input switch lubrication
Hi all,
I've just been "tipped" by a good friend the 7A29 has a very delicate input switch - mechanically, the rollers need some lubrication to perform well and last. I appreciate the heads up, as the switch feels fragile and particularly sticky, so I'm sure I was heading head first into permanent damage.? I searched the archives (not very deeply, yet) but I didn't find good direction on this yet. Has anyone done this work and have some good recommendations? What lube to use, where to lube, what not to do, some steps maybe, etc.? Thank you, Radu.? |
Re: removing a stuck 7k plugin?...
Sounds like the little catch is? still engaged in the scope frame.? If so can you remove the cover nearest the latching mechanism and look down in there with a mirror to see if you can disengage it? ? I never rely entirely on the pull handles on either the scope or TM500 modules when removing them if I can.? I¡¯m sure that we all know how it can become frustrating if you manage to break the handle off. ? When removing modules I will usually connect a BNC ¡°T¡± to one of the front panel connectors and using both it and the pull handle remove the module.? That way it takes a lot of the stress off of the pull handle.? ? Good luck. ? Greg |
Re: removing a stuck 7k plugin?...
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýSometimes if lucky and can access both sides of a plugin a strip of plastic bottle , or even a wide tie wrap / cable tie slid and wiggled under and forward will slip the catch up and allow removal....similar on household front door latches (without the locking bar)I took the bottom cover off and managed to? slide a small wedge of plastic to move the latch on one. IIRC took forever but no damage ¸é±ð²Ô¨¦±ð On 5/9/23 8:56 AM, Radu Bogdan Dicher
wrote:
Hi all, |
Re: removing a stuck 7k plugin?...
Michael, Kind of did just that... I flipped the scope upside down, removed the bottom panel, *tried to* remove the rail (didn't work, as it's tucked flush and tight under the plug), but then inserted a long plastic zip tie and jiggled and pushed and pulled until I freed it. Having access to the underside and loosening the guide rail, then arching it slightly probably?also helped a bit. It's not easy or guaranteed?to work - the kind of thing that may take you 5 minutes or two hours - but I managed to pull it out.? Now, if I can only find the spring that flew across the room from the broken pulling mechanism to have a spare... Possibly this century?I'll find it.? I also learned how to replace one of those pulling mechanisms - the knob has a tubular insert that can be pushed out and then back in once the parts are reinserted in the plug's channel.? Thank you! Radu.? On Tue, May 9, 2023 at 9:29?AM Michael W. Lynch via <mlynch003=[email protected]> wrote: Radu, |
Re: removing a stuck 7k plugin?...
Radu,
I had this issue some time ago on a 7633.? From my foggy memory, I pulled the bottom panel, removed the screw that retains the black guide rail for the stuck plugin, then pulled the rail and the plug in out.? Then simply reinstalled the rail and the bottom cover.? |
removing a stuck 7k plugin?...
Hi all,
I have a 7k plugin I thought I successfully repaired the pulling mechanism (the finger pull knob broke from the plastic insert that is attached to the spring, and I epoxy glued it together, but if failed quite quickly). I removed the two plugins to the left and right of this stuck one, but I don't see to be able to pull it out if I grab it by the sides.? Can anyone share any experience on this, please? Thank you, Radu.? |
Re: Tektronix 7104
I'd probably cut the cables and sub an LED+esistor - AFTER checking that there was in fact +5 on the wiring.
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Cheers! Bruce Quoting Stefan <fres@...>: Radu, |
Re: Tektronix 7104
Radu,
?
the power light bulb DS308 at the front is a cartridge lamp, 5V 60mA, green (Tek 150-0121-02), that can't be opened normally. The 2 cables are glued on, or potted completely. (Never tried to open something.) It seems, there are / have been some manufacturers, that produce it.
?
Stefan |
Re: Tektronix 7104
Radu -
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Depending on what is needed, I can probably come up with some parts. Cheers! Bruce Quoting bruce@...: Radu - |
Re: Tektronix 7104
Radu,
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I have some video out there on this topic. It is a 7854 not a 7104 but the mechanism is the same. Here are the 7854 links LED upgrade - 7584 Lab Check in - Zen -----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Bruce Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2023 2:49 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes2] Tektronix 7104 Radu - The 7104 is a very interesting scope (I have something like 3 of them). Does your's work - if so, are there any burns on the CRT. You need to be particularly careful of intensity - there is a warning LED that tells you to turn the brightness doen. It is relatively easy to "split" the unit by lifting the front of the top half up and leaving the rear hinged - completely splitting the two halves is harder. It requires disconnecting multiple cables and is in my mind a "bitch." Getting to anything mounted on the top of the bottom half is something less than fun. Remove the trim covering the top and bottom half separation, then there will be some screws (as I remember) and you can lift the front of the top part. There is a "kick stand" to support the top part. Do you have a manual copy? A second question - did you ever get the 7903A to CA from the east coast? Cheers! Bruce Quoting Radu Bogdan Dicher <vondicher@...>: Hi all, |
Re: Tektronix 7104
Radu -
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The 7104 is a very interesting scope (I have something like 3 of them). Does your's work - if so, are there any burns on the CRT. You need to be particularly careful of intensity - there is a warning LED that tells you to turn the brightness doen. It is relatively easy to "split" the unit by lifting the front of the top half up and leaving the rear hinged - completely splitting the two halves is harder. It requires disconnecting multiple cables and is in my mind a "bitch." Getting to anything mounted on the top of the bottom half is something less than fun. Remove the trim covering the top and bottom half separation, then there will be some screws (as I remember) and you can lift the front of the top part. There is a "kick stand" to support the top part. Do you have a manual copy? A second question - did you ever get the 7903A to CA from the east coast? Cheers! Bruce Quoting Radu Bogdan Dicher <vondicher@...>: Hi all, |
Tektronix 7104
Hi all,
It's been a while. I hope everyone's doing just great!? I lucked into a 7104 for the princely sum of $20 ($40 added a couple of 7A19s and a 7B92A came "free," all basically functional as I've seen home). Go swap meets!! Still exploring it and assessing functionality, but so far so good. One thing I'll need to look into is the power light bulb. I think the part number is DS308, and may be a 5V bulb. I can't really confirm this from the SM - has anyone looked at this recently, and can confirm? I think replacing it involves separating the display unit from the base (involving some "kickstand?...") - if anyone can shed any light on the process I'd appreciate it.? Thank you, Radu.? |
Re: Tek 2430 Oscilloscope self cal not working
Paul Tech1
Hi Victor,?
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Thanks for the advice, I think you are right, especially as there is evidence that someone had been there before me. These scopes and other Teks are more expensive here in the UK and spares are not easy to obtain. The situation is much better in the US. Thanks Paul?
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Re: Tek 2430 Oscilloscope self cal not working
Paul,
The amount of labor and possible spare parts to bring back a 2430 may just not be worth it, I'm sorry to say. I would opt for a high serial number 2430A (B030xxx, even seen B042xxx) and in good shape. These go really cheap on ebay (I've seen less than $100), especially if not working and the high s/n ones it is usually the power supply. The high S/N 2430A's will have the latest version of CCD (-05) and you will avoid many issues with the older CCDs. In my experience 2430A with CCD before? -03 will be problematic, so forget the 2430. --Victor |
Re: Dave Henderson (Artek Manuals) RIP
All,
Artek Manuals continues operation by Linda, Office Mgr / Dave's wife. I've been incontact with her, working through issues to catch up on orders. Orders made via eBay are being filled.? Orders via the website have some delayed, so if you have placed an order but haven't received it or heard back from email let me iknow and it will be added to the follow-up list.? I'm in regular contact. If you need to contact Linda directly, send me a PM and I'll provide the phone number. It's not advisable to post private phone #'s to the list and understandably it's a difficult time. Regards, Ron Carlson Dallas - |
Re: Dave Henderson (Artek Manuals) RIP
Agree - Honor goes to whoever knows him (or her) best - IMO
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Cheers! Bruce Quoting Chuck Harris <cfharris@...>: It might be appropriate if *ONE* of us contacts Linda to |