Re: 7A29 - input switch lubrication
Radu,
?
the mentioned Super Lube has NLGI 2 what says, that is it "soft" = normal softness. It is incompatible with some rubbers, and has only good compatibility (= no long term safety) with polycarbonate and polystyrene, as can be seen in the compatibility chart. Therefore I wouldn't recommend it for your mentioned application.
?
The mentioned Lubriplate is a mineral oil based grease with calcium thickener, what makes it resistant to water. It has NLGI 1 what means "very soft". I wouldn't recommend it for your mentioned application.
?
I'm not entirey sure, but I think a silicone based grease with an inorganic thickener (e. g. bentonite), that doesn't contain lithium, calcium, mineral oil e. g. should work safely. Use NGLI 2 or 3. It can contain PTFE.
Example: OKS 1110
?
Don't forget: silicone grease dissolves silicone rubber. (very slowly)
?
Stefan
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Wanted: Tek 577 Step x.1 knob or a sketch for 3d printing
Dear all,
I happened to destroy this knob while trying to fit it in.
It broke in dozen of pieces so it is impossible for me even try to glue the pieces together to allow me to draw a sketch for 3D printing.
So I am asking the forum for a sketch, since it seems this knob has been an unobtainium part since a looong time ago.
Thanks to all.
Roger
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Re: 7A29 - input switch lubrication
Lubriplate has been my
go to...no problem on plastics, seems to be really stable even
per the datasheet...use sparingly is my only advice.
also approved for mil contract applications.
I know nothing about Super lube
搁别苍é别
On 6/4/23 8:31 PM, Radu Bogdan Dicher
wrote:
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Thank you all for sharing your thoughts.?
Based upon recommendations here and some other research,
I've narrowed?down my choices between:
- Super Lube-21030 Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease
- Lubriplate L0044-086 No. 130-AA
I have both on order arriving tomorrow. I'd appreciate
some further insight on these two. Am I in the ballpark?
Either one more suitable? Are they safe on plastics -
particularly the type used by Tek on these switches?
Thank you,
Radu.?
On Thu, Jun 1, 2023 at 3:23?AM
Stefan < fres@...> wrote:
Radu,
?
AFAIK there are greases, e. g. some silicone types, that
won't dry out and are safe on plastics. (But silicone grease
can solve silicone rubber.) I don't think there's a problem,
if the grease contains PTFE. Maybe movement needs less force
with it.
?
Stefan
|
Re: 7A29 - input switch lubrication
Thank you all for sharing your thoughts.? Based upon recommendations here and some other research, I've narrowed?down my choices between: - Super Lube-21030 Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease
- Lubriplate L0044-086 No. 130-AA
I have both on order arriving tomorrow. I'd appreciate some further insight on these two. Am I in the ballpark? Either one more suitable? Are they safe on plastics - particularly the type used by Tek on these switches?
Thank you, Radu.?
On Thu, Jun 1, 2023 at 3:23?AM Stefan < fres@...> wrote: Radu,
?
AFAIK there are greases, e. g. some silicone types, that won't dry out and are safe on plastics. (But silicone grease can solve silicone rubber.) I don't think there's a problem, if the grease contains PTFE. Maybe movement needs less force with it.
?
Stefan
|
Re: 7A29 - input switch lubrication
Radu,
?
AFAIK there are greases, e. g. some silicone types, that won't dry out and are safe on plastics. (But silicone grease can solve silicone rubber.) I don't think there's a problem, if the grease contains PTFE. Maybe movement needs less force with it.
?
Stefan
|
Re: 7A29 - input switch lubrication
Radu, Some of the trouble with grease is that it can Crack. This is accelerated at higher Temps
Most greases are a mineral oil base with some thickener to improve the waterproofing and stictivity.?
When the grease cracks the oils can run out and flow. This can cause oils to get in undesirable places.?
Tek them selves did use a white lithium grease on the plastic cam barrels of the 4xx and 7xxx units so from the factory these parts came lubricated. The main issue is today this has LONG dried out and hardened.
Eric
On Wed, May 31, 2023, 2:45 PM Radu Bogdan Dicher < vondicher@...> wrote: Thank you all. On a quick note - I am only concerned with the mechanical aspects of the switching.?
To avoid the risk of dripping and/or ending on unintended recipients (electrical ones), wouldn't a grease be more appropriate? Maybe one of those PTFE "no drip" "sorta food grade" greases? Such as Super Lube. It's said to stick where you put it, apparently reactivate when subject to movement of parts, and last very long in serviceable state. I can't figure if it's supposed to be safe on plastic, but it claims some universal applicability I think.?
Never used the above, but it seems to be ok for this per a relatively cursory look. Radu.?
On Wed, May 31, 2023, 11:19 AM Eric < ericsp@...> wrote: Jon,?
Just letting you know the attenator switch design in the 7a19 and 7a29 are completely diffrent than the design is all other 4xx and 7xxx plug-ins and scopes as these are 500Mhz and 1GHz vertical units. They do not use the cam finger switch design
Not lubricating a 7a29 will destroy the mechanical aspects of the attenuator.?
Proper high frequancy techniques should be used for the electrical side of things though.?
Eric
On Wed, May 31, 2023, 1:51 PM Froggie the Gremlin < jonpaul@...> wrote: Ragu: Bonjour,
Search both TEKscopes at Groups.io and EEVblog as well.
Look for Tektronix cam switches/vert attenuators/7A29
1/ The PCB and atten modules are damaged by most cleaning INCLUDING deoxit, tuner cleaner as the PCB has polysolfone.
2/ We use ONLY 99% Isopropyl alcohol SPARINGLY, open up to expose the bifurcated switch fingers (DO NOT DISASSEMBLE CAM, SHAFT!) and use a clean lint free paper or business card, a drop of alchol.
3/ NEVER use any oil, petroleum product Deoxit, etc to "lubricate" the cam switch's do no need it and the contacts will be contaminated.
Bon Chance
Jon
|
Re: 7A29 - input switch lubrication
Thank you all. On a quick note - I am only concerned with the mechanical aspects of the switching.?
To avoid the risk of dripping and/or ending on unintended recipients (electrical ones), wouldn't a grease be more appropriate? Maybe one of those PTFE "no drip" "sorta food grade" greases? Such as Super Lube. It's said to stick where you put it, apparently reactivate when subject to movement of parts, and last very long in serviceable state. I can't figure if it's supposed to be safe on plastic, but it claims some universal applicability I think.?
Never used the above, but it seems to be ok for this per a relatively cursory look. Radu.?
On Wed, May 31, 2023, 11:19 AM Eric < ericsp@...> wrote: Jon,?
Just letting you know the attenator switch design in the 7a19 and 7a29 are completely diffrent than the design is all other 4xx and 7xxx plug-ins and scopes as these are 500Mhz and 1GHz vertical units. They do not use the cam finger switch design
Not lubricating a 7a29 will destroy the mechanical aspects of the attenuator.?
Proper high frequancy techniques should be used for the electrical side of things though.?
Eric
On Wed, May 31, 2023, 1:51 PM Froggie the Gremlin < jonpaul@...> wrote: Ragu: Bonjour,
Search both TEKscopes at Groups.io and EEVblog as well.
Look for Tektronix cam switches/vert attenuators/7A29
1/ The PCB and atten modules are damaged by most cleaning INCLUDING deoxit, tuner cleaner as the PCB has polysolfone.
2/ We use ONLY 99% Isopropyl alcohol SPARINGLY, open up to expose the bifurcated switch fingers (DO NOT DISASSEMBLE CAM, SHAFT!) and use a clean lint free paper or business card, a drop of alchol.
3/ NEVER use any oil, petroleum product Deoxit, etc to "lubricate" the cam switch's do no need it and the contacts will be contaminated.
Bon Chance
Jon
|
Re: 7A29 - input switch lubrication
Jon,?
Just letting you know the attenator switch design in the 7a19 and 7a29 are completely diffrent than the design is all other 4xx and 7xxx plug-ins and scopes as these are 500Mhz and 1GHz vertical units. They do not use the cam finger switch design
Not lubricating a 7a29 will destroy the mechanical aspects of the attenuator.?
Proper high frequancy techniques should be used for the electrical side of things though.?
Eric
On Wed, May 31, 2023, 1:51 PM Froggie the Gremlin < jonpaul@...> wrote: Ragu: Bonjour,
Search both TEKscopes at Groups.io and EEVblog as well.
Look for Tektronix cam switches/vert attenuators/7A29
1/ The PCB and atten modules are damaged by most cleaning INCLUDING deoxit, tuner cleaner as the PCB has polysolfone.
2/ We use ONLY 99% Isopropyl alcohol SPARINGLY, open up to expose the bifurcated switch fingers (DO NOT DISASSEMBLE CAM, SHAFT!) and use a clean lint free paper or business card, a drop of alchol.
3/ NEVER use any oil, petroleum product Deoxit, etc to "lubricate" the cam switch's do no need it and the contacts will be contaminated.
Bon Chance
Jon
|
Re: 7A29 - input switch lubrication
Hello Today,
Isn't that roller some kind of plastic, mine are deteriorated. Oil might damage it, I used GC lubriplate.
Dallas
|
Re: 7A29 - input switch lubrication
Ragu: Bonjour,
Search both TEKscopes at Groups.io and EEVblog as well.
Look for Tektronix cam switches/vert attenuators/7A29
1/ The PCB and atten modules are damaged by most cleaning INCLUDING deoxit, tuner cleaner as the PCB has polysolfone.
2/ We use ONLY 99% Isopropyl alcohol SPARINGLY, open up to expose the bifurcated switch fingers (DO NOT DISASSEMBLE CAM, SHAFT!) and use a clean lint free paper or business card, a drop of alchol.
3/ NEVER use any oil, petroleum product Deoxit, etc to "lubricate" the cam switch's do no need it and the contacts will be contaminated.
Bon Chance
Jon
|
Re: 7A29 - input switch lubrication
Radu, ????????????? I used a small bit of sewing machine oil on my. But mine just needed to rollers lubricated. I have hear others needed to service the plungers as well. I have not needed to take apart my attenuator yet. As with all things periodic exercise is good for even test equipment. ? Zen ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Radu Bogdan Dicher Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2023 4:39 PM To: [email protected]Subject: [TekScopes2] 7A29 - input switch lubrication ? Hi all,
I've just been "tipped" by a good friend the 7A29 has a very delicate input switch - mechanically, the rollers need some lubrication to perform well and last. I appreciate the heads up, as the switch feels fragile and particularly sticky, so I'm sure I was heading head first into permanent damage.?
I searched the archives (not very deeply, yet) but I didn't find good direction on this yet.
Has anyone done this work and have some good recommendations? What lube to use, where to lube, what not to do, some steps maybe, etc.?
Thank you,
Radu.?
|
7A29 - input switch lubrication
Hi all,
I've just been "tipped" by a good friend the 7A29 has a very delicate input switch - mechanically, the rollers need some lubrication to perform well and last. I appreciate the heads up, as the switch feels fragile and particularly sticky, so I'm sure I was heading head first into permanent damage.?
I searched the archives (not very deeply, yet) but I didn't find good direction on this yet.
Has anyone done this work and have some good recommendations? What lube to use, where to lube, what not to do, some steps maybe, etc.?
Thank you,
Radu.?
|
Re: removing a stuck 7k plugin?...
Sounds like the little catch is? still engaged in the scope frame.? If so can you remove the cover nearest the latching mechanism and look down in there with a mirror to see if you can disengage it?
?
I never rely entirely on the pull handles on either the scope or TM500 modules when removing them if I can.? I’m sure that we all know how it can become frustrating if you manage to break the handle off.
?
When removing modules I will usually connect a BNC “T” to one of the front panel connectors and using both it and the pull handle remove the module.? That way it takes a lot of the stress off of the pull handle.?
?
Good luck.
?
Greg
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Re: removing a stuck 7k plugin?...
Sometimes if lucky and
can access both sides of a plugin a strip of plastic bottle , or
even a wide tie wrap / cable tie slid and wiggled under and
forward will slip the catch up and allow removal....similar on
household front door latches (without the locking bar)
I took the bottom cover off and managed to? slide a small wedge
of plastic to move the latch on one. IIRC took forever but no
damage
搁别苍é别
On 5/9/23 8:56 AM, Radu Bogdan Dicher
wrote:
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Show quoted text
Hi all,
I have a 7k plugin I thought I successfully repaired the pulling
mechanism (the finger pull knob broke from the plastic insert that
is attached to the spring, and I epoxy glued it together, but if
failed quite quickly). I removed the two plugins to the left and
right of this stuck one, but I don't see to be able to pull it out
if I grab it by the sides.?
Can anyone share any experience on this, please?
Thank you,
Radu.?
|
Re: removing a stuck 7k plugin?...
Michael, Kind of did just that... I flipped the scope upside down, removed the bottom panel, *tried to* remove the rail (didn't work, as it's tucked flush and tight under the plug), but then inserted a long plastic zip tie and jiggled and pushed and pulled until I freed it. Having access to the underside and loosening the guide rail, then arching it slightly probably?also helped a bit. It's not easy or guaranteed?to work - the kind of thing that may take you 5 minutes or two hours - but I managed to pull it out.?
Now, if I can only find the spring that flew across the room from the broken pulling mechanism to have a spare... Possibly this century?I'll find it.?
I also learned how to replace one of those pulling mechanisms - the knob has a tubular insert that can be pushed out and then back in once the parts are reinserted in the plug's channel.?
Thank you! Radu.?
On Tue, May 9, 2023 at 9:29?AM Michael W. Lynch via <mlynch003= [email protected]> wrote: Radu,
I had this issue some time ago on a 7633.? From my foggy memory, I pulled the bottom panel, removed the screw that retains the black guide rail for the stuck plugin, then pulled the rail and the plug in out.? Then simply reinstalled the rail and the bottom cover.?
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Re: removing a stuck 7k plugin?...
Radu,
I had this issue some time ago on a 7633.? From my foggy memory, I pulled the bottom panel, removed the screw that retains the black guide rail for the stuck plugin, then pulled the rail and the plug in out.? Then simply reinstalled the rail and the bottom cover.?
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removing a stuck 7k plugin?...
Hi all,
I have a 7k plugin I thought I successfully repaired the pulling mechanism (the finger pull knob broke from the plastic insert that is attached to the spring, and I epoxy glued it together, but if failed quite quickly). I removed the two plugins to the left and right of this stuck one, but I don't see to be able to pull it out if I grab it by the sides.?
Can anyone share any experience on this, please?
Thank you,
Radu.?
|
the cartridge has a shoulder that prevents it from coming out. If you can replace the inner bulb with a LED it could look quiet original.
?
Stefan
|
I'd probably cut the cables and sub an LED+esistor - AFTER checking that there was in fact +5 on the wiring.
Cheers!
Bruce
Quoting Stefan <fres@...>:
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Radu,
the power light bulb DS308 at the front is a cartridge lamp, 5V 60mA, green (Tek 150-0121-02), that can't be opened normally. The 2 cables are glued on, or potted completely. (Never tried to open something.) It seems, there are / have been some manufacturers, that produce it.
Stefan
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Radu,
?
the power light bulb DS308 at the front is a cartridge lamp, 5V 60mA, green (Tek 150-0121-02), that can't be opened normally. The 2 cables are glued on, or potted completely. (Never tried to open something.) It seems, there are / have been some manufacturers, that produce it.
?
Stefan
|
Stefan
Froggie the Gremlin
Michael W. Lynch