开云体育

I like this series of scopes,? so was drawn to a 2230 (100 Mhz digital storage) at a low price.?? The seller said it lit up but he couldn't figure out how to run it.?? Well neither can I - in it's present condition!

I haven't used the storage models of this series before but after skimming the op and service manuals,? what appears to be happening is, something is forcing the digital side to run one of the "exercisers" every time on power-up.?? For the first few seconds after the beam becomes visible,? I can see normal traces that respond to controls (if you're quick about it) which indicates the analog side is working.?? But then the screen changes to a pair of concentric boxes and center axis lines.? The inner box can be moved from side to side with the horizontal position control but that's the only control that has any effect.?? Nothing other the cycling power will make this display go away.

My best guess is that this is the "Box" exerciser display that would normally be enabled by pressing one of the Menu Select/DISPLAY buttons during power-up.?? If so, then it would seem that something is doing so unintentionally - i.e. a defective switch or a failure in the circuitry attached to it.?? I can see that a "stuck switch" would cause the instrument to run the Box exerciser, but it normally should be possible to exit the exerciser by pressing one of the other buttons,? which doesn't happen.

I looked for a schematic of the front panel board in the service manual but didn't find much.? Is additional documentation on the 2230 available?? If I can get it working I'd use it mostly in the analog non-storage mode.? Thanks for any suggestions!

On 4 May 2025 10:59 am, Christian Eisert wrote:

*Shortlist:*
*HP 1740A–1745A* – HP’s answer to the Tek dominance
*Tektronix 475 or 475A* – sharp screen, good beam blanking
*Tektronix 2445(A/B) to 2467(A/B)* – newer, fancier, maybe too much
for me

I have owned six Tek 'scopes (and used many others at work), as well as two HPs. My HP 1740A has given me more grief than all of my Tek 'scopes combined. I had to replace it with a Tek 2235 because the 1740A had become so unreliable.
--
Dale H. Cook, GR/HP/Tek Collector, Roanoke/Lynchburg, VA

开云体育

Hi everyone,

first of all: a big thank you to everyone who responded – I really appreciate the detailed input, the shared experience, and the time you’ve all taken to help me out.

Also, sorry for not replying sooner – I went on a short holiday to Denmark and figured it was time to give my better half the attention she deserves :D

To be honest, I’m starting to feel a bit guilty for triggering so many long and thoughtful replies.
My original intention was really just to get a quick recommendation – something like:
"A, B, or C?" – "Definitely B!" :)

But as someone who's into tech myself, I have to admit: there just 补谤别苍’迟 always easy answers. Especially not when the topic is vintage test equipment, where every setup, every use case, and even every unit has its quirks.

So, since I'm already in deeper than planned, let me briefly summarize where I'm coming from and what I'm looking for:

I collect and restore vintage arcade machines (e.g. Asteroids Deluxe, Space Duel, Tempest).
I usually work with CRT chassis, power supplies, TTL boards, and use all the usual tools (multimeter, logic probe, ESR tester, rejuvenator, EPROM programmer etc.).
I already own a Hameg HM 605 and a Rigol DS1054Z.

Recently, I offered to help a friend fix several vector-based games, and since I don’t want to constantly remove and reconnect a real vector monitor, I started looking for a scope that can also act as a clean vector display -- with proper Z-axis beam blanking and no retrace lines.It was honestly this one image that sparked it all:

So here’s what I’m ideally looking for:

---

Shortlist:

• HP 1740A–1745A – HP’s answer to the Tek dominance

• Tektronix 475 or 475A – sharp screen, good beam blanking

• Tektronix 2445(A/B) to 2467(A/B) – newer, fancier, maybe too much for me

• Some other player?
  
  

---

What matters to me (prioritized):

• As little money as possible

• Clean vector image via Z input (no retrace lines)

• Repairable by someone who’s handy but not an EE

• Built like a tank from a trusted brand

Again, thanks to all of you for your insights and patience. I’ve learned a lot already just from the conversation!

Best regards,
Christian

Chris Elmquist <chrise@...> added the photo album 465B pack panel : wanted to show the connectors and labeling on the back panel of a 465B, specifically to get the specifications for the Z-axis input

---

The following photos have been uploaded to the 465B pack panel photo album of the TekScopes2@groups.io group.

• 465B-back-panel-connectors.jpg

By: Chris Elmquist <chrise@...>

I took a photo of the back of my 465B and uploaded to the group Photos
section. Shows the Z-axis input and the voltage requirements to control
intensity labeled at the connector.

Chris

--
Chris Elmquist

On Wednesday (04/30/2025 at 10:29PM +0200), Christian Eisert via groups.io wrote:

sorry Dave, I didn't mean to be rude. It may have something to do with my
English skills.

So no, they fall out because they don't meet the original criterion with the
blanking circuit ;).

I just read that on the wiki.

FWIW, you might want to double check that. 465 has a Z-axis BNC input
on the back panel.

From page 2-8 of the 465B service manual,

EXT Z-AXIS -- Input bnc connector permits the application of an
external signal to intensity modulate the crt display. Does not
affect display wave-shape. Signals with fast rise time and fall
time provide the most abrupt intensity change. Signals must be
time-related to the display for a stable presentation on the crt.
The connector is useful for adding time markers in uncalibrated
modes of operation.

What isn't clearly defined, that I have yet found, is what voltage levels
you would present to this input to get maximum and minimum intensity.

Chris
--
Chris Elmquist

The 2465 has a separate blower, which is hard to service, and
will need oil by now. The squirrel cage needs to be removed
for safety during service, and most don't know how to remove them
without damaging the collet: Hint, the screw slot is to help you
NOT turn the shaft when you loosen the nut. If you turn the slot
like a screw, you are virtually assured to break the collet that
holds the blower to the motor shaft. Loosen the nut so that it
covers the shaft's slot, and tap it gently until it releases the
collet from the shaft.

The 2465 uses an EAROM, which does fail, and is not available in
any form new. Its life is related to the number of times the
EAROM is written. Mostly, it is only written when you calibrate
the scope, as the front panel settings are all analog pots and
switches that remember their settings by physical positioning,
unlike the 2465A and B.

The 2465 is a lot smoother operating, as they didn't try to be
super tricky, like they did with the A & B scopes.

-Chuck Harris


On Wed, 30 Apr 2025 21:09:46 +0200 "Christian Eisert via groups.io"
<christian.eisert@...> wrote:

Thanks for your comments! :-)

So the takeaway is: no matter what, I should plan to recap the PSU.
Fair enough — that’s the kind of work I’m used to and can handle.

If I understand you correctly, the 24x5 (non-A/B) models don’t have
NVRAM or SMD electrolytics, which makes them a bit more
maintenance-friendly?

So for someone like me, who just wants a relatively low-maintenance
scope, the 24x5 might actually be the sweet spot?

Or to put it another way: I was assuming that '90s-era hardware (like
the B models) would be the safer bet compared to '80s-era tech — but
for my specific use case, that might not actually be true?


Christian

Am 30.04.25 um 20:06 schrieb Tom Gardner via groups.io:

On Wed, 30 Apr 2025 at 17:53, Christian Eisert via groups.io
<> <christian.eisert@...> wrote:

Hi all,

I'm currently looking for a suitable Tektronix oscilloscope for
a specific use case:

*Displaying vector graphics in XY mode* from arcade PCBs (Atari
Asteroids, Tempest, Space Duel, etc.) – ideally with clean *beam
blanking via the Z input*. I'm also planning to use it for
general CRT repairs and TTL logic diagnostics.

*Important to know:*
I'm not an electronics engineer – I'm a computer scientist by
trade. So *robustness and low maintenance* are my top priorities
(right after a proper Z input). I’d prefer something that just
works and doesn’t immediately turn into a restoration project.


IMHO with any 24x5 you will need to recap the PSU, both the
electrolytics and RIFA delayed action smoke generators. You can buy
a kit of parts for that.

24x5 has the squirrel cage motor, and removing the PSU requires
undoing the fragile collet. I have two, both recapped.
24x5A/B have the battery backed RAM problem plus the SMD
electrolytics on the A5 board. I don't like them, but others
disagree.

Any of those would be more than adequate for old TTL logic (i.e.
anything introduced before the mid 80s), but they won't be perfect
for fast modern logic.
Consider using a scope to ensure the analogue waveform PSU and
signal integrity, then flipping to the digital domain and using a
logic analyser or protocol analyser.
Be aware that improper probing technique will, with any fast scope,
"invent" waveform artefacts.

I've never used any myself and so can't offer any advice, but there
are quite a few devices designed to display an XY TV signal. Since
they are for analogue TV (not digital) and they aren't as useful as
a scope, I would guess they would be relatively cheap. They are
often seen at auctions of broadcast equipment.