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Hello, how big are they. Tam -- With best regards Tam HANNA Enjoy electronics? Join 15k7 other followers by visiting the Crazy Electronics Lab at https://www.instagram.com/tam.hanna/

Colin Herbert wrote: Is this covered in the service manual? I would be interested in knowing how this needs to be set, as I am planning to move the guts of one 475 into the frame of another, and that

David Collier wrote: How did you straighten the shafts? I mean, other than bending them, did you do anything special? I've got two parts scopes that I'd like to make into one working scope and one

I was wondering if anyone was willing to make the boxes for the multipliers so ones that go bad can be made. The box would need the holes for the wires and mounting threads as original. The old epoxy

I am looking for the schematics of the two military scopes. I prefer paper or print-out. Thanks. Mark

Ah, thank you Colin. I was wondering about that. My working scope isn't at 0.0, and this one wasn't either. And I have no recollection of what the Army scopes were set to. I can get close 'cuz I do

Chuck Harris wrote: but this resistor pair is present in the schematics, not just for the 475A, but also in the early 475 service manual schematics. I know that's not really a refutation of your

In a word, no. Anything is possible, I suppose, but asking us to believe that Tek's design team carelessly forgot to check power dissipation is a lot to swallow. This wasn't their first rodeo --

Your other problem is setting the Vernier where it is supposed to sit when you put it all together again! They don't all sit at 0.00, There is data about where they are supposed to read when the pot

Thanks Tom, Raymond & Jeff, Yes the trigger slope shafts were bent as well! Now straightened. Display is bright, and power supplies are well within spec for residual hum. All electrolytics are

If it does turn out to be a blown attenuator, perhaps the best option is to use an HP attenuator instead (they are much more available). A small bit of logic is needed to remap control signals and

I've done this for many, many years, and usually my reason is I cannot fit a higher wattage resistor in the same space as two smaller resistors sitting upright like this. So, I would guess that a

Thanks everyone; thankfully mine is a later production version, post B020319, so hopefully not the unrelaible version. I've checked the 100MHz reference and have healthy outputs on all 3 reference

Unfortunately, there are no parts, except from another Tek attenuator. Is it blown, or are the contacts "dirty"? These were often damaged by DC or excessive input power. If it is damaged, you need to

I do not have the factory tool, but I have a set of snap ring pliers that have round tips that work pretty well. I use masking tape over the outside of the vernier ring to prevent inadvertent damage

Hi Jeff, I've been with Paypal for over 20 years. They have security measures in place like every other bank. I've never had an issue with paying or receiving money from anyone either. I won't use any

Ah! Great! I have a pair of snap-ring pliers that kind of work. I gave it a bit of a tug, but didn't want to get aggressive with it not knowing that I was yanking on the right part or not. I have the

To get a high-wattage resistance, there are a couple of options: Get a bigger resistor; or make it out of a series or parallel combination of lower power resistors. Tek chose a series combination, and

Try: VintageTek Museum / https://vintagetek.org / Call, they aren’t there every day. Their web page only shows manuals, but they can scrounge up other items. They sell items to cover operating

There is a nut inside the fixed part of the counter dial. It takes a 2-pin spanner wrench made by Kilo, or you can make one, or if you have very strong fingers you can use a round nose plier in the