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In my 30 plus years in the elevator craft, I have never seen or heard of any standard of L1 and L2, and I have worked on many DC motor starter/reverser panels. Different manufacturers used whatever

I ran into the same issue. So I replaced the pull out cable with an insulated BNC female, chassis mount connector: https://www.vellemanusa.com/products/view/?id=351312 Shaun M.

Need not be working, project units are more interesting, I have some units that are available if interested in the 222 series. Contact me off list if intrested in more details at

On the schematics pertaining to DC shunt/series motor starters, is there any naming convention relating to L1 and L2 being positive/negative?? I ask because I'm used to DC systems specifying

I am looking for Tektronix hand held scopes with CRTs, such as the 222, 224, 211, 213, 214 and others of those series. Need not be working, project units are more interesting, completeness is more

Chuck ,Sorry to disagree with you, have you even taken the time to look at the schematic, In principle yesI agree with you but this supply is different than what you? described.? It uses a multitap

Hi, all, My favourite scope, a TDS 694C, has developed a nasty screeching sound when the display comes on. It's quiet during boot-up, but when the screen comes on the sound is very loud and

Hi Colin, Those 7CT1N captive leads are problematic. I've fixed several 7CT1Ns and they almost all had bad cables. By now most of insulation on the cables has gotten brittle and is cracking. The plug

If I had that need abd that concern, I’d mill some wooden blocks to temporarity replace the feet and store the original feet away. DaveD Sent from a small flat thingy

Hi All! I've got a bare 7704 frame that's in the way, and I'd like to reposition it from the vertical, to the horizonal, to store it.... "upending" it, so to speak. I'm a little leary of doing it...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0TjW_0xTJU, here is a good informative video on capacitors if anyone is interested Thank you Chuck for the reply, I am trying to avoid electrolytic capacitors when

I just took apart the HV XFMR from my 561. The core is a ferrite or powdered iron E-E type. After removing the wrap around the core, the two E's separated easily at room temperature. Still hoping

There appears to be two variants of this captive lead. The picture in my manual shows an in-line white plastic "plug", as does Tekwiki. It is given as p/n 195-0095-00 "Lead, test: BNC" and the manual

Thanks Miguel, That's what I was looking for - the info is now saved in my 576 notes. I like that little HV transformer in the picture. It's a fine example of a common method of attaining good HV

576 Transformer Inductance Resistance AWG mm Turns AL=L/N^2 Pin 2-3 305,0E-6 22,0E+0 25 0,45 26 451,2E-9 Pin 7-8 918,0E-3 85,0E+3 40 0,08 1400 468,4E-9 Transformer core size 50mm 13mm 31mm Inductance

/g/TekScopes/photo/86536/0?p=Created,,,20,2,0,0 I included a picture from the service manual of the floating power supply that involve these capacitors

I'm troubleshooting a noisey step generator, when I turn the step generator off I don't get any flickering noise artifacts on the display. I figure as the first step is replace any old electrolytic

The only reasons I use an oven over the water technique (aka teacup method) for a couple of simple reasons: 1) it seems less likely to burn me. Water soaks through my leather gloves, and it gets hot

Thanks Chuck! I put transformers in boiling water some minutes, with the same results Regards Miguel -----Mensaje original----- De: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] En nombre de Chuck

Yes, if you can make them fit. Are the electrolytics bad? If not, I would leave them alone. -Chuck Harris DW wrote: