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There is supposed to be a Russian substitute for the 20mA diode. My notes show it as 1i308e/Gi308e but I have never been able to find one. The 10mA one can be replaced with a AI201V, which isn't hard

HI all, using the search I found this, that answers at least one of my questions: ============================================ Do CAL01 first! After CAL02 step "g" is done, but before you start step

I have tried CA glue on a lifted pad.? It stuck at first but failed immediately when barely touched with a soldering iron.? In your case the continuity is already there and you might risk not

I think you made up your mind. Don't breath the fumes when you solder near ca, or get them in your eyes.

Harvey, I need to visit you one day, before the sales you go to, so I can find me some of these DEALS! It's fun to, it is like a "BOX OF CHOCOLATES, you never know what you gonna get".

Highly fortunate. That's one that nobody has ever found a replacement for. My 1502 is sitting on the shelf with its input protector firmly in place. I was lucky enough to mange to find all of the

Ballpark you can get without special equipment. DMM calibration is something else, but there are 10 volt very accurate references available. It's when you star looking at 4 1/2 digits and up where

IPC 7711/7721 specifies two part epoxy or dry film epoxy for the repair of lifted pads. It costs a lot for a copy but if you do a search, you can find some older versions on the web. This web site

Thanks for the ideas. Tge trackbis just lifted, there is no break. It's flexible, held together by the conformal coating, and there's continuity. So, I want to glue it down. I don't think it would be

Hi all, I am (again :-) ) in the process of calibrating one of my 2465's scopes, I got it broken, with the Cal-jumper in the Cal position and showing a row of dots at the bottom of the screen. It has

This is what I use. It is actually a pcb over coat epoxy but it seems to stand up well to heat. https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/chemtronics/CW2500/CW2500-ND/1929217

I'm with Stefan. I have always used epoxy for this. If I'm quick with the soldering iron the trace almost always stays put. I have done the external wire thing as well, with epoxy over the top when

Epoxy would be much better. Probably still won't survive direct soldering (most fast cure epoxy glues don't have the same heat resistance as PCB material), but it will anchor the connector better than

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I

Hi Dave Some observations from a long time compressor using hobbyist. Universal Pressure switches are cheap and plentiful on ebay. Belt driven iron piston compressors are best for long life if you

Harvey, to your point about the application, to be clear, my applications in order of priority are: 1. tube amp repair.. basically an audio application involving low frequencies. I occasionally end up

I hope I get to see it in person one - if you would let me in! Thanks!

Sorry for asking this question: What is " levelling head kit" ? I think it has something to do with calibration.... wrote:

Thank you for your honesty and direct practical suggestions! I do appreciate it very much and I'm not just saying it! I'm strait with everyone even if it hurts. About my goals.... I'm a jack of all

Well, step back from the leaves and look at the branch, then step back and look at the tree, then the forest. Easy to get lost when you're trying to count leaves in a national park... Get a feel for