On Thu, 2 May 2019 18:29:30 -0400, you wrote: I got this one out of the buck a pound box at a surplus vendor at
Dayton a couple years back. It was functional, just needed a battery
pack and there was a fault in the charging circuitry which I fixed.
The TDs were, miraculously, fine. Highly fortunate. That's one that nobody has ever found a replacement for. My 1502 is sitting on the shelf with its input protector firmly in place. I was lucky enough to mange to find all of the accessories for it and a lid as well. Ditto with the 1503. Even though the 1503 is made for longer cables, I think I'd go with that first since it's far more difficult to damage. I've got a 7D02 microprocessor tester that I paid 5 dollars for, so I know the feeling. It seems to work perfectly except no pods. Oh well. Ought to be on the lookout for that stuff, too. The 1502 is nice, the thing that is confusing between the 1502 and 1503 is that while the 1503 has a nice sine squared pulse as the output (which gives you the classic reflections), the 1502 has a step riding on top of a waveform, and you look for the corresponding step, not a sine flavored pulse. Harvey
The cover was twice what I paid for the unit and the repair parts
are around 3X. Nothing like an excuse to spend money.
Paul
On Thu, May 02, 2019 at 06:20:11PM -0400, Harvey White wrote:
On Thu, 2 May 2019 13:26:17 -0400, you wrote:
Thanks for the reply Harvey. I have a Mouser order in so I'm just going
to replace all of the HV components and hope the transformer didn't get
toasted. One of those HV caps has a suspicious appearance around
one of the leads. I actually had one that had a bad CRT, bad horizontal board, and a few
problems in the pulse generator (I think it was the 1503). Not sure
what the 1502's problem was, but I actually got one with a good TD.
It may have had the bad HV board.
Harvey
The 6.2M resistor has drifted up to 7.5M in the intensity path, so
replacing that might help a bit too.
Paul
On Wed, May 01, 2019 at 10:58:37AM -0400, Harvey White wrote:
On Tue, 30 Apr 2019 20:44:20 -0400, you wrote:
After accidentally leaving my 1502 on overnight I came back to find
it dead. I eventually traced it down to a HV problem.
This circuit is so simple it's ludicrous but I'm hampered by having
lost my HV probe. In any event, the output across the HV transformer
is a square wave of about 50V; it's supposed to be 500V. If I
disconnect C4328 (connected directly to the transformer), I see the
expected 500V across the transformer. The HV diodes appear to be OK,
but something is loading it down. I've disconnected the CRT and
controls with no change, so it has to be on the board. I repaired my 1502's high voltage section. I saw capacitors that had
cracked, and the diodes weren't all that happy either. IIRC,
microwave oven diodes work. I just tested and replaced all the bad
capacitors.
I don't see any unusually low ohm readings either.
Any ideas for tracking down the failed component or should I just
shotgun the multiplier and replace everything? One cap is 0.033
at 600V and the other 3 are 0.027 at 1200V.
It's been noted that sometimes HV capacitors are OK at lower voltages
and leaky at higher ones.
!DSPAM:5ccb6d29156751858445706!
|
Re: Calibration and full checkout needed - Tek 7000 series
On Thu, 2 May 2019 19:59:08 -0400, you wrote: Harvey, to your point about the application, to be clear, my applications
in order of priority are:
1. tube amp repair.. basically an audio application involving low
frequencies. I occasionally end up in solid state land but have had luck
isolating a misbehaving component with old time techniques.
2. vintage radio repair
So, very basic stuff where the exacting accuracy of the oscilloscope may
not be necessary. But I'd like for them to be the ballpark. Ballpark you can get without special equipment. DMM calibration is something else, but there are 10 volt very accurate references available. It's when you star looking at 4 1/2 digits and up where things start to get tricky with the reference. That's also just DC volts, AC, ohms, and current are separate matters. For what you're looking at, you would like to have a 100 Mhz scope, at least dual channels. If you're doing audio and you want to start poking around audio preamps, you'd want a fairly sensitive scope to match the expected signal levels. 5 mv/div may be too little. For portable scopes, the 465 would do well. If you want digital as an add-on (either, without forcing you into digital at all times), then a 468 would work well. IF you want a 7000 series scope, then a 7603 would do well, 7B53 plugin for sweep, 7A26 (two of them) gives you 4 channels, a pair of 7A18's would give you 75 Mhz bandwidth, which would be good enough, although I'd go for the 7A26 if you get another scope frame. You might want to look at the 7A13 (I prefer the electronic readout one), and the 7A22. Both are differential, have some good low ends for input ranges, and may be more of what you want for debugging preamps. almost any 10x probe with a 1meg input match on the plugin would work. If you care to, the 7704 is a 200 Mhz bandwidth scope, and would work well with the same plugins. For specialized test equipment, the SG502 is an ultra low distortion signal generator module, and the AA501 or AA5001 is a distortion analyzer. Bear in mind that audio enthusiasts have bid up the prices on these, because price is no object. Nice to have, though. a good 4 1/2 digit meter would help, you'd like the full range of AC, DC, AC current (could be useful) and DC current. Harvey
On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 7:27 PM Tony Fleming <czecht@...> wrote:
Sorry for asking this question: What is " levelling head kit" ?
I think it has something to do with calibration....
On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 5:25 PM Craig Sawyers <
c.sawyers@...>
wrote:
And you can get a levelling head kit (no housing) for the SG504 from me ...
David
I have one of your kits and have had for quite a while. Just waiting to
find an SG504 without head
that is less than stupid money ;-)
Craig
|
Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?
IPC 7711/7721 specifies two part epoxy or dry film epoxy for the repair of
lifted pads. It costs a lot for a copy but if you do a search, you can find
some older versions on the web.
This web site explains the repairs:
Regards,
Mark
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 7:21 AM cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote: Thanks for the ideas.
Tge trackbis just lifted, there is no break. It's flexible, held together
by the conformal coating, and there's continuity. So, I want to glue it
down. I don't think it would be possible to get epoxy under there, as I
don't think it will wick. However CA glue will. What do you think of that?
On Fri, 3 May 2019, 15:56 Brendan via Groups.Io <the_infinite_penguin=
[email protected] wrote:
On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 06:29 AM, cheater cheater wrote:
I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the
glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks.
This is what I use. It is actually a pcb over coat epoxy but it seems to
stand up well to heat.
|
Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?
Thanks for the ideas. Tge trackbis just lifted, there is no break. It's flexible, held together by the conformal coating, and there's continuity. So, I want to glue it down. I don't think it would be possible to get epoxy under there, as I don't think it will wick. However CA glue will. What do you think of that? On Fri, 3 May 2019, 15:56 Brendan via Groups.Io <the_infinite_penguin= [email protected] wrote: On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 06:29 AM, cheater cheater wrote:
I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the
glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks.
This is what I use. It is actually a pcb over coat epoxy but it seems to
stand up well to heat.
|
Things not clear to me in the 2465 calibration manual
Hi all,
I am (again :-) ) in the process of calibrating one of my 2465's scopes, I got it broken, with the Cal-jumper in the Cal position and showing a row of dots at the bottom of the screen.
It has through hole A5 board with a 156-1566-00 (GI8341R) EAROM chip, so no Dallas, No battery, just this chip.
Since I only do a calibration every now and then -like once every two years- it always is some sort of struggle for me, because -to me- some things are not clear and maybe there is somebody to shed some light on this.
This is how I see things now:
Cal1 is calibration of everything horizontal / Timing, so we need a calibrated source of markers, I use a TG-501, which makes this quite easy.
I check things afterwards using a GPSDO generator, and this always checks out perfectly, once succeeded...
Cal2 is everything vertical, I use a HP 3314 which is not good enough, but I double check the levels on both my TDS540B and another 2465 at the same time.
I know it is not a real calibration, but as long I do not have a proper source to generate these signals properly, this will do for me.
Cal3 is trigger-levels, only two levels needed, so not a real problem there.
Cal4 is correction of a phase-difference between Ch1 and Ch2, also quite straight forward.
There are several things that are not clear to me, I know a lot of questions, here they are:
- After a calibration, a signal is not showing the proper amplitude, and when I turn the Ch2 V/Div to 2mV the row of dots re-appear. Any information on this please?
- During steps G 111 in Cal2, where you position the two dots at the beginning and the end of the screen at a 10 division separation,
and steps H and I, do I need to put the Ch1 Var back into detent or not? If so, when exactly?
- Do I need to do that after step 112?
- Do I leave it in the previous Var position used in step G for the rest of the process?
- At the beginning of step 121 it asks for a standard-amplitude sigal of 500 mV.
Only in the military calibration manual for a 2465B (*TB 9-6625-2295-35) it says it needs to be a 1kHz square wave positive going from 0V to 500 mV, but in my 2465 manual 070-3831-00 is just says "standard-amplitude",
so I use the signal as specified in the military manual. (0 - 500 mV square wave)
- Will a calibration ONLY be successful when ALL steps in ALL four parts (Cal 1-4) were done without seeing ANY Limit messages, or can you retry a certain step when a Limit message appears?
- Can you stop and save calibration in between the four parts of the process, if so, how?
- And maybe the most important question:
What is the only correct order of ending the calibration-process?
The manual says Press A/B Trig to return to normal operating mode, put the jumper to the NoCal position and disconnect the test setup.
But somehow I have the impression it does not always save the calibration, but this could be caused by something else too.
So first press-and-release the A/B Trig button, than put the jumper back to No-Cal, and than Power-Off or, press-and-release the A/B Trig button Power-Off and now put the jumper to No-Cal, or just Power-Off and put the jumper back?
BTW, by accident I found that when you leave the Cal-NoCal jumper out the scope will run a sort of Control-Panel led-test in a loop, showing an All-Pass message on the screen.
Hoping to get some input on my questions,
Un saludo,
Leo
|
Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?
On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 06:29 AM, cheater cheater wrote:
I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks.
This is what I use. It is actually a pcb over coat epoxy but it seems to stand up well to heat.
|
Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?
I'm with Stefan. I have always used epoxy for this. If I'm quick with the soldering iron the trace almost always stays put. I have done the external wire thing as well, with epoxy over the top when finished.
--Eric
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Friday, May 3, 2019, 8:38:41 AM CDT, stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote: Epoxy would be much better. Probably still won't survive direct soldering (most fast cure epoxy glues don't have the same heat resistance as PCB material), but it will anchor the connector better than CA. With lifted pads or broken tracks it is always preferable to use a bit of wire and make a connection to the next pad, or at least a substantial undamaged stretch of track, rather than attempting a repair directly at the lifted pad / break. ST On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 3:29 PM cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote: I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder? on the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that?
Thanks.
|
Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?
Epoxy would be much better.
Probably still won't survive direct soldering (most fast cure epoxy glues
don't have the same heat resistance as PCB material), but it will anchor
the connector better than CA.
With lifted pads or broken tracks it is always preferable to use a bit of
wire and make a connection to the next pad, or at least a substantial
undamaged stretch of track, rather than attempting a repair directly at the
lifted pad / break.
ST
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 3:29 PM cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote: I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that?
Thanks.
|
[OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?
I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks.
|
Hi Dave
Some observations from a long time compressor using hobbyist.
Universal Pressure switches are cheap and plentiful on ebay.
Belt driven iron piston compressors are best for long life if you change the oil every 10 years.
If you are only going to blow out things small cheap diaphragm types (think Speedair, 35 PSI max) are a solution.
Add an obsolete propane BBQ tank if you want more volume.
If you don't use it a lot and like quiet a nitrogen cylinder and regulator. Cylinders and regulators are common at swapmeets here in SoCA. Don't be intimidated by cylinders having the wrong type of gas, the valves are easy to change.
When I got a big 35 gal compressor my wife wanted me to move out and take my noisy machine with me. Solution was to add 3 ft long muffler made out of 3 inch PVC pipe. Connected to intake with Poly urethane hose (material very important) details on Youtube. Took about 10 db of low stuff out of the racket and saved marriage.
Lotsa Luck Eric
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-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto: [email protected]] On Behalf Of David Kuhn Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2019 9:50 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Compressed air " Your idea is correct, the large belt driven compressors are the best and places like Harbor Freight has them brand new for a reasonable price. " Yea, I have been tempted a few times to use the 25% off coupon to get one, but I usually do not hear good things about there electrical tools. There is an elderly lady down the block that we are friends with. Her husband (dead 20+ years now) has one of those six foot belt driver compressors near their garage door; I think it is hard wired. She might use it once a year. When I turned it on, it was amazingly not deafening. It looks like it was built very well. I can't get her to give it or sell it to me - lol. I kind of pine for it. It is very old, but still works great and I am sure built better than anything harbor freight has. Anyway, I'm not sure I should offer much because of its age and I might be better off with a new one. They probably all need the pressure/electric switch changed every few years and I am not sure where to get that part. My original one in the dog house, probably 29 years old now and still looking nice, needs that pressure switch. I could never find the MFG parts list and you wouldn't get one from them after all these years. I haven't found generic ones either. Maybe there is generic kits to re-plumb old air compressors? I'll have to look. Sorry, this is off topic, but I feel every electronics repair lab should have compress air. Heck where I worked, before GE moved everything, and our jobs overseas, I used a nice high pressure air line. I could wash boards off with Simple green and then ISO and blow dry them do dry that I could power them up right away without letting them dry overnight. The air sound drove other around me nuts, but you do what you have to do. At one point, maintenance was going to change my compressed air plumbing to the nitrogen line (we had a huge nitrogen tank outside) for the drying of boards, then our closing was announce and no one gave a shite about anything for the next year and a half 8-(. So nitrogen would be better for drying and dusting board than compressed air, but I would not want to foot that bill. Dave Dave On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 11:48 AM Tony Fleming <czecht@...> wrote: Your idea is correct, the large belt driven compressors are the best
and places like Harbor Freight has them brand new for a reasonable price.
Don't forget the water filtration and drain the water from the tank.
You could make a "self draining" or "automatic" condensation purge
with an Arduino or ESP32/ESP8266 and few more parts to open valve.
But a reminder once a month should give you time to check the system
and drain the water from the tank.
On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 10:24 AM David Kuhn <Daveyk021@...> wrote:
" Because they don't have a "quiet" air compressor. "
That's the biggest problem. In the garage, I built a compressor dog house
with six inch walls with insulation on all side. Even the access
door is
6" thick with insulation. It worked great, but the air compressor
got used hard. Well know the saying "out of sight, out of mind"?
That's the problem. It never got maintenance. Now, I just let it
be noisy in the garage as needed. I don't use it that much, so I
just go out and turn it on as-needed rather than let it be
automatic. I would like to have a huge
tall tank that hold a lot of air; but they can be expensive. I need
to go
to some auctions and find a six foot tall belt driven compressor
that can run only every so often and let it on automatic.
On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 9:59 PM Harvey White <madyn@...>
wrote:
On Wed, 1 May 2019 14:53:04 +0200, you wrote:
I hear conflicting reports on what one should do. What's your take?
Are there different types where you should or shouldn't? Compressed air isn't. There's not enough room in the an.
Druckluft 67 (aka Dust Off 67) from Kontakt / CRC says not to
shake the can "or otherwise the fluid might come out", but is it
always the case with all types? What is that fluid for, anyways?
The fluid evaporates, produces gas, and that's what your
"compressed air" happens to be.
I read reviews of some cheaper compressed air products on amazon
and they complained about the quality. What can go wrong with
compressed air?
Liquid for one, which you don't want, and then again, what's the
liquid that's evaporating to give you this "air"?
Two things people brought up were one brand produced very weak
pressure, and another produced flammable rather than inert gas. Depends on what's evaporating. Butane would work, so would freon,
so would a lot of other things, includin propane.
Druckluft 67 touts as being oil free. Are there other things that
might go wrong? er..... what's in that liquid?
Why would someone use canned compressed air rather than an air
compressor?
Because they don't have an air compressor. Because they don't
know the difference. Because they don't have a "quiet" air compressor.
Because they don't have the driers and particle filters to clean
up the output air from the compressor (which may or may not have
oil in it from the air pump).
Harvey
Thanks.
|
Re: Calibration and full checkout needed - Tek 7000 series
Harvey, to your point about the application, to be clear, my applications
in order of priority are:
1. tube amp repair.. basically an audio application involving low
frequencies. I occasionally end up in solid state land but have had luck
isolating a misbehaving component with old time techniques.
2. vintage radio repair
So, very basic stuff where the exacting accuracy of the oscilloscope may
not be necessary. But I'd like for them to be the ballpark.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 7:27 PM Tony Fleming <czecht@...> wrote: Sorry for asking this question: What is " levelling head kit" ?
I think it has something to do with calibration....
On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 5:25 PM Craig Sawyers <
c.sawyers@...>
wrote:
And you can get a levelling head kit (no housing) for the SG504 from me ...
David
I have one of your kits and have had for quite a while. Just waiting to
find an SG504 without head
that is less than stupid money ;-)
Craig
|
Re: 2465B Branding Question
I hope I get to see it in person one - if you would let me in!
Thanks!
toggle quoted message
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On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 5:23 PM Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote: On Thu, 2 May 2019 10:07:39 -0500, you wrote:
After reading your email Harvey I went to see what is available and I
agree, it would be nice to have it also. Yep, I have about 10-15 scopes, variously, and a number of V and H
plugins to deal with. Those are good things to have. A good set of
extenders is also nice to have, although you can do some work without
them.
If you're working with the TM500/TM5000 series, then a good set of
extender boards is really nice to have.
I need to slow down, I would spend myself into a hole in the ground!
For some reason I do not go just 10%, I must go 100% and run out of time to
play with it all! Slow down a bit, plan what you want, then go over that with an idea of
what you need....
Then try to get it.
Hamfests can be good.
I'll donate my stuff to a club when I'm gone, hope someone will have fun
with some of my stuff one day! Always good to spread the wealth that way.
Harvey
On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 9:12 PM Harvey White <madyn@...>
wrote:
On Wed, 1 May 2019 21:02:32 -0500, you wrote:
Great information, and thank you for that.
The option 22 are some probes - but I do not know what probes they
were.
If you know, or anyone else, let me know please.
Do you have, or do you know where I can get the software for the P6407/GPIB
Word Recog?
I also would like to know how to use it - I can't find much on the Internet
about it.
But someone is sending me the P6407, it should be here by end of next week.
There's a digital trigger option with a word recognizer, that allows
you to trigger on a digital pattern. That's what the P6407 is used
for. The GPIB option would simply allow you to set that pattern, if
at all, and whatever trigger qualities you need.
Attach the leads to digital signals, set the pattern you want for a
trigger, and the scope should trigger on that one. Never really used
it on my 2430A, but got the trigger generator anyway. Turns out to be
more useful to have a logic analyzer for what I was doing, and I do.
This was a foray into the logic analyzer domain of products to allow
the scope different characteristics.
You use this for digital only and a logic analyzer is better. You use
a digital trigger to look at an analog waveform, and you need either
this scope or we need a logic analyzer with a scope plugin (or
triggering of the scope from the LA.
Harvey
You have a great day!
Tony
On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 6:27 PM Ken Winterling <wa2lbi@...>
wrote:
Tony,
FYI, Tektronix produced a number of 2465 model "packages" that
included
certain options. I have 2465DVS and it has a DMM.
*Model Includes options*
2465 CTS 9, 10, 22
2465 DMS 1, 9, 10, 22
2465 DVS 1, 5, 9, 10, 22
2465A CT 9, 10, 22
2465A DM 1, 9, 10, 22
2465A DV 1, 5, 9, 10, 22
2465B CT 9, 10, 22
2465B DM 1, 9, 10, 22
2465B DV 1, 5, 9, 10, 22
Ken
WA2LBI
On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 7:03 PM Tony Fleming <czecht@...>
wrote:
My scope is 2465 DMS and it has DMM also - not an add-on.
Someone said that mine is 2465 CTS (but I think all CRT scopes can
be
called that).
As per catalog Tektronix put out, I could not find my model either!
But there are many catalogs that are incomplete, I think.
If your scope works, the manual for 2465B should be the same.
Also, look at the back of your scope and find a silver tape that
has
options printed on it with small holes punched out, if you have
that
option.
That is how mine has options 1, 9, 10 and GPIB port.
See if on the back is any other "model number".
I'm looking for the software that would communicate with my
computer -
does
anyone have the software and or manual for it?
Also, I have a port for P6407 - I also need as much help with that
and
software that, I assume, it will need.
Tony
On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 5:45 PM Dave Daniel <kc0wjn@...>
wrote:
All,
I have a Trektronix 2465B that has the DMM option physically
present.
Looking at the TekWki web page for the 2465B, I see photos that
show
this 'scope branded as "2465BVD". My 'scope is branded as
"2465B".
The DVM does not appear to have been an add-on.
Can anyone explain how a 2465B with the DMM option would not be
branded
as a 2465BDV?
Thanks
DaveD
|
Re: Calibration and full checkout needed - Tek 7000 series
Sorry for asking this question: What is " levelling head kit" ? I think it has something to do with calibration.... On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 5:25 PM Craig Sawyers <c.sawyers@...> wrote: And you can get a levelling head kit (no housing) for the SG504 from me ...
David
I have one of your kits and have had for quite a while. Just waiting to
find an SG504 without head
that is less than stupid money ;-)
Craig
|
Re: Calibration and full checkout needed - Tek 7000 series
Thank you for your honesty and direct practical suggestions!
I do appreciate it very much and I'm not just saying it! I'm strait with
everyone even if it hurts.
About my goals.... I'm a jack of all trades! I love electronics, 3D
printing, 3D stuff... CNC, welding, photography, designing prototypes....
I have lots of different needs, like helping handicapped people. I made a
"drinking machine" for water.
I'm good at that, but I do not have the second part - marketing and
manufacture, patents + lawyers....
So despite everyone wanted me to make it, I could not take a chance to
manufacture it and get sued by someone ....
I took it to wheelchair place here in Lincoln and they were so excited they
started asking how much would I charge for this.
They wanted me to make many of them, but I can't take the risk and I could
not find and investor, who knows how the industry works....
The second part is to help anyone - fix their problem electronics,
computers (that is how I make my living, when my health problems let me...).
Lastly, when I was young boy, I think 14 years old, Mr. Helebrand was
teaching me and couple other guys in electronics field.
We wanted to make a portable transistor radio that would be very
inexpensive so all my friends would have one.
He was so smart and gave us his lab and came only when we had questions. I
was sold and his oscilloscope with many other meters and gizmos just swept
me of my feet.
BUT life went at different direction and I choose CNC and photography as my
career and in mid 80's I started my computer business.
Electronics came later, about 9 years ago, when I started playing with
Arduino and my friend and I had so much fun, it rekindled my love in
electronics..
So I started also helping in clubs and teaching anyone anything they wanted
or needed help with and electronics are one of the hobbies that I support.
Few years ago I was representing our club in a show, where I demo my 3D
printer, electronics, Arduino, Jacobs's Latter made from 2 Microwave's
transformers .... and the kids lit up and adults love my stuff also.
So I spend lots of time learning and showing stuff to kids,
adults...anyone..... And my lab grows and grows and it makes me happy.
Not an expert, but I like to spread the seeds of possibilities into peoples
heads and watch it grow!
It is amazing to see the reaction and how people grow from simple Arduino
project into very complex "ART".
Sorry, for my long email.
Thank you again Harvey!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 5:34 PM Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote: On Thu, 2 May 2019 10:03:24 -0500, you wrote:
WOW what a nice reply Harvey! Thank you very much! You swiped me off my
feet with all the details! Well, step back from the leaves and look at the branch, then step back
and look at the tree, then the forest. Easy to get lost when you're
trying to count leaves in a national park...
OK, I knew I was over my head, but now I think I'll start at -100th floor
and work up from there. Get a feel for it. Some things are good for scope functional
evaluation, some things are needed to calibrate and standardize
scopes.
What are you building this lab for? Not only why, but what do you
want to do? Immediate answers not needed (and they're for you, not
me). But the answers for these questions show you different
directions for equipment.
Digital electronics require a very different set of instrumentation
(with overlaps always) than RF measurement, or Audio, or general
purpose repair, or television, etc.
Always ask questions, sometimes even if you know the answer. Always
something to be learned.
Don't worry about how much you know, or don't know. Nobody knows
everything, or is expected to...
Me? I do a lot of general purpose work, but a lot of design in
digital, power supplies, graphics displays, etc. That tends to make
me look at relatively high bandwidth analog (500 Mhz to 1 Ghz if
needed), I use logic analyzers and a fair amount of power supplies as
needed. Signal generators and meters are also useful.
RF stuff? Not that much. So that's how my lab works.
Harvey
I'l read this later and try to go from there.
All of you TEK guys are GREAT! Thank you all!
On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 12:03 AM Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:
On Wed, 1 May 2019 22:00:36 -0500, you wrote:
Thanks for a fast reply Harvey!
I'm not a professional, just a hobbyist and I love to fix anything I
get
my
hands on. Well, I've been in electronics for a while, and even earned money
doing it, so I guess I qualify as a professional of sorts.
When I see how people dump everything, before thinking to fix it, it
makes
me sick how wasteful we become. Some of this stuff is not possible to repair without tools and parts
not available to most...
If I could fix stuff for free I would, that is how much I love to give
anything a second, third... chance to do its work.
Helping handicapped and old/poor people brings me more joy, when I see
their eyes sparkling again!
So not for now I don't need a perfect scope, but a working one that
gets
me
there. My plans are to teach anyone some basic electronics and
encourage
them to have a hobby..... A good Tektronix scope will be a joy, *if* they can appreciate it.
I once brought a 7000 series scope into a classrom with a 7CT1N (curve
tracer) plugin so I could demonstrate transistor curves.
One of the students looked at it and said "old tech".
He's right, but his view is a trifle narrow....
For now the scope does something, that is much more than when I
received
it, so now I like to play and learn, since my modern scope is nothing
like
2465 DMS. likely not.
But I always wanted Tek scope so I have one and it needs a checkup and
or
a
way to make it work well. Well, the basic checks are useful for functionality. IIRC, there are
some functional checks in the service manual.
You can check the sweep at least by looking at the relative numbers of
cycles going from one range to another. You won't get exact, but
you'll see if 20 us/div is about right.
Ditto for the vertical section.
I found on eBay *Tektronix PG506 - * but they are mostly a PLUG-IN
style.
Can I run it without a housing? No.
It's made to go into a TM500 style housing. It's a power supply unit
with individual (and somewhat odd) voltages available to each
plugin...
Generally comes in 1,3, 4, and 6 module sizes. The 5 unit is made to
be portable. There may be a 2 unit size, but I'm not sure.
TM 501, TM503, TM504, TM515 (portable), and TM506. The TM5000 series
is similar, somewhat larger, with the units being microprocessor based
and remote controllable.
Most of the TM500 units fit into the TM5000 frame, but no TM5000 unit
will fit into a TM500 frame.
When I look over the pictures for *Tektronix PG506 *it seems to me that the
power supply is in the base unit..... but I don't know anything about
it.
You're right, that's where it is intended to go. There are some older
(perhaps tube) models of test generator, though.
Starting with say, a 20 Mhz oscillator, divide by 10, then 2 to get a
1 us period waveform. Divide by 5 then 2 to get a 2 Mhz waveform (500
ns period), divide by 2 to get a 100 ns period waveform, etc. With
the right frequencies and TTL divider chips, you can get yourself a
timing generator.
The 1-2-5 for voltage is harder, though.
I have skills and even 3D printer, so I can make something to cover the
back end, where I can make a power supply connect.... First just find the TM500 style plugin unit. Check out the TM500
series of plugins (DC 5xx, DM 5xx, PG5xx, etc. They may be a good
addition to your lab, within reason. They're not wonderful, but they
are decently made.
I'll keep your email and start looking for a complete *Tektronix PG506, *it
can be a great addition to my tools here. Read the description first, and don't spend tons of money on it.
What you'd be getting is the amplitude part of a calibration
generator, that puts out voltages in the 1-2-5 sequence that Tektronix
uses. It's very convenient and was intended to help calibrate their
vertical plugins and vertical channels.
The more scopes you have, the more you may need this, but think about
it first. There's a lot you can do to work around not having one.
Harvey, you are great help and the rest of the guys here are also very
helpful, I'm glad to belong to Tektronix group! It's a good group.
You make me smile more and more! Keep asking questions. There's no perfect setup, and a number of
workarounds.
Harvey
Tony
On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 9:34 PM Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:
On Wed, 1 May 2019 21:10:39 -0500, you wrote:
Since I'm new to Tektronix 2465 DMS with DMM, what "signal
standardizer"
model number would I need? DC voltage standard (PG506 will work, set it on DC for the DMM).
works
for the scope too.
Does anyone have one and what should I look for in a used unit? good cosmetics, good reports on the seller, and an idea of what you'd
have to replace if things were bad.
Are they mostly good or is there some parts that make them less
reliable?
Ebay and local and you takes your chances....
Where do you buy your parts and who is reliable to buy from for Tektronix?
Major distributors (Mouser, Digikey, Arrow, etc) for standard parts.
Sphere and Qservice are most reliable, buying another with a
different
problem is often quite useful.
I do have Aktakom Function Signal Generator, 50MHz - 2 channels. Is
that
good enough? For waveforms, maybe. (linearity).
How do you measure the voltages, and the frequencies (vertical and
horizontal calibration)?
Function generator may not be enough, depending on how serious you
want to get.
Harvey
Thank you guys, you have helped me a lot!
Tony
On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 9:03 PM Harvey White <madyn@...
wrote:
On Wed, 1 May 2019 18:13:05 -0400, you wrote:
With four 7000 series scopes in my lab, I've been patiently
waiting
for
a 067-0587-00,01, or 02 signal standardizer for about a year now
and I
finally grabbed one today. They've been going for pretty big
money
(worth
more than the scope itself) but I managed to snag it for $77
(with
shipping) off of eBay.
My one concern of course is that it works and doesn't need some
form of
rehabilitation.
I will soon find out.
Most of mine worked. The digital circuitry, as I remember it, is
relatively simple. Just checked the listing. Looks clean from
here.
Good luck.
Harvey
On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 11:13 AM Harvey White <
madyn@...>
wrote:
On Tue, 30 Apr 2019 12:47:26 -0700, you wrote:
Hi All,
I need one, good working scope to get started on repairing the
other 30
or so scopes around here. I have a multitude of Tek 7000
frames
to
choose
from but I think the 7904 (or 7904A) is a good place to start.
Once
that's
working + cal'ed I can at least troubleshoot and maybe repair
the
others.
Where can I get one professionally calibrated in the greater
Detroit
area? I can drive a fair distance, but I'm scared to ship.
I've
had
two
7934's, a 7834, and a 7704A crushed in separate shipping
mishaps.
Can't help you there, I'm in the southeast. However...
Also...which plug ins are recommended to cal for building my
golden
scope? I have a collection...
The typical plugins for a 7904 (and that's a good choice, IMHO)
are
at
least one if not two 7A26, and a 7B92A (which I happen to
like).
If
you want the flexibility of two sweep plugins, the 7B80 and
7B85
will
do. If you have a 7103/4 and a 7B10 and 7B15, you could use
them
but
the sweep is not calibrated at the highest frequencies, but
those
could be moved over to the 7103/4 when needed.
For things you'd want:
067-0587-01 signal standardizer. The 01 is intended for 500
mhz
scopes, the 00 is for lower bandwidth, and the 02 is for the
1GHz
bandwidth scopes. Needed to keep the mainframes all agreeing
with
each other as well as provides some nice linearity and gain
signals.
You could use the 00, but it wouldn't allow you to check out
the
frequency response to the limit of the scope's bandwidth for
higher
bandwidth scopes.
PG506/TG501 SG503/SG504 TM500 plugins that provide calibration
signals for vertical and timebase checking, as well as
frequency
response. Those will do any scope. The signal standardizer is
specifically for 7000 series mainframes.
You could also go with a CG501 (TM500) or a CG5001 (TM5000)
module
with the appropriate frame. Note that the CG series may need a
specific head to supply the right signals. Those heads may be
difficult to find.
My favorite (depending) setup in a 7904 is a 7A26 (or 7A24 if I
need
more bandwidth and can tolerate a 50 ohm input plugin), a 7D12
with
an
M2 (sampling) module, a 7D15 counter, and a 7B92A sweep.
Harvey
|
Re: Calibration and full checkout needed - Tek 7000 series
On Thu, 2 May 2019 10:03:24 -0500, you wrote: WOW what a nice reply Harvey! Thank you very much! You swiped me off my
feet with all the details! Well, step back from the leaves and look at the branch, then step back and look at the tree, then the forest. Easy to get lost when you're trying to count leaves in a national park... OK, I knew I was over my head, but now I think I'll start at -100th floor
and work up from there. Get a feel for it. Some things are good for scope functional evaluation, some things are needed to calibrate and standardize scopes. What are you building this lab for? Not only why, but what do you want to do? Immediate answers not needed (and they're for you, not me). But the answers for these questions show you different directions for equipment. Digital electronics require a very different set of instrumentation (with overlaps always) than RF measurement, or Audio, or general purpose repair, or television, etc. Always ask questions, sometimes even if you know the answer. Always something to be learned. Don't worry about how much you know, or don't know. Nobody knows everything, or is expected to... Me? I do a lot of general purpose work, but a lot of design in digital, power supplies, graphics displays, etc. That tends to make me look at relatively high bandwidth analog (500 Mhz to 1 Ghz if needed), I use logic analyzers and a fair amount of power supplies as needed. Signal generators and meters are also useful. RF stuff? Not that much. So that's how my lab works. Harvey I'l read this later and try to go from there.
All of you TEK guys are GREAT! Thank you all!
On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 12:03 AM Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:
On Wed, 1 May 2019 22:00:36 -0500, you wrote:
Thanks for a fast reply Harvey!
I'm not a professional, just a hobbyist and I love to fix anything I get my
hands on. Well, I've been in electronics for a while, and even earned money
doing it, so I guess I qualify as a professional of sorts.
When I see how people dump everything, before thinking to fix it, it makes
me sick how wasteful we become. Some of this stuff is not possible to repair without tools and parts
not available to most...
If I could fix stuff for free I would, that is how much I love to give
anything a second, third... chance to do its work.
Helping handicapped and old/poor people brings me more joy, when I see
their eyes sparkling again!
So not for now I don't need a perfect scope, but a working one that gets me
there. My plans are to teach anyone some basic electronics and encourage
them to have a hobby..... A good Tektronix scope will be a joy, *if* they can appreciate it.
I once brought a 7000 series scope into a classrom with a 7CT1N (curve
tracer) plugin so I could demonstrate transistor curves.
One of the students looked at it and said "old tech".
He's right, but his view is a trifle narrow....
For now the scope does something, that is much more than when I received
it, so now I like to play and learn, since my modern scope is nothing like
2465 DMS. likely not.
But I always wanted Tek scope so I have one and it needs a checkup and or a
way to make it work well. Well, the basic checks are useful for functionality. IIRC, there are
some functional checks in the service manual.
You can check the sweep at least by looking at the relative numbers of
cycles going from one range to another. You won't get exact, but
you'll see if 20 us/div is about right.
Ditto for the vertical section.
I found on eBay *Tektronix PG506 - * but they are mostly a PLUG-IN style.
Can I run it without a housing? No.
It's made to go into a TM500 style housing. It's a power supply unit
with individual (and somewhat odd) voltages available to each
plugin...
Generally comes in 1,3, 4, and 6 module sizes. The 5 unit is made to
be portable. There may be a 2 unit size, but I'm not sure.
TM 501, TM503, TM504, TM515 (portable), and TM506. The TM5000 series
is similar, somewhat larger, with the units being microprocessor based
and remote controllable.
Most of the TM500 units fit into the TM5000 frame, but no TM5000 unit
will fit into a TM500 frame.
When I look over the pictures for *Tektronix PG506 *it seems to me that the
power supply is in the base unit..... but I don't know anything about it. You're right, that's where it is intended to go. There are some older
(perhaps tube) models of test generator, though.
Starting with say, a 20 Mhz oscillator, divide by 10, then 2 to get a
1 us period waveform. Divide by 5 then 2 to get a 2 Mhz waveform (500
ns period), divide by 2 to get a 100 ns period waveform, etc. With
the right frequencies and TTL divider chips, you can get yourself a
timing generator.
The 1-2-5 for voltage is harder, though.
I have skills and even 3D printer, so I can make something to cover the
back end, where I can make a power supply connect.... First just find the TM500 style plugin unit. Check out the TM500
series of plugins (DC 5xx, DM 5xx, PG5xx, etc. They may be a good
addition to your lab, within reason. They're not wonderful, but they
are decently made.
I'll keep your email and start looking for a complete *Tektronix PG506, *it
can be a great addition to my tools here. Read the description first, and don't spend tons of money on it.
What you'd be getting is the amplitude part of a calibration
generator, that puts out voltages in the 1-2-5 sequence that Tektronix
uses. It's very convenient and was intended to help calibrate their
vertical plugins and vertical channels.
The more scopes you have, the more you may need this, but think about
it first. There's a lot you can do to work around not having one.
Harvey, you are great help and the rest of the guys here are also very
helpful, I'm glad to belong to Tektronix group! It's a good group.
You make me smile more and more! Keep asking questions. There's no perfect setup, and a number of
workarounds.
Harvey
Tony
On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 9:34 PM Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:
On Wed, 1 May 2019 21:10:39 -0500, you wrote:
Since I'm new to Tektronix 2465 DMS with DMM, what "signal
standardizer"
model number would I need? DC voltage standard (PG506 will work, set it on DC for the DMM). works
for the scope too.
Does anyone have one and what should I look for in a used unit? good cosmetics, good reports on the seller, and an idea of what you'd
have to replace if things were bad.
Are they mostly good or is there some parts that make them less
reliable?
Ebay and local and you takes your chances....
Where do you buy your parts and who is reliable to buy from for Tektronix?
Major distributors (Mouser, Digikey, Arrow, etc) for standard parts.
Sphere and Qservice are most reliable, buying another with a different
problem is often quite useful.
I do have Aktakom Function Signal Generator, 50MHz - 2 channels. Is
that
good enough? For waveforms, maybe. (linearity).
How do you measure the voltages, and the frequencies (vertical and
horizontal calibration)?
Function generator may not be enough, depending on how serious you
want to get.
Harvey
Thank you guys, you have helped me a lot!
Tony
On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 9:03 PM Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:
On Wed, 1 May 2019 18:13:05 -0400, you wrote:
With four 7000 series scopes in my lab, I've been patiently waiting
for
a 067-0587-00,01, or 02 signal standardizer for about a year now
and I
finally grabbed one today. They've been going for pretty big money
(worth
more than the scope itself) but I managed to snag it for $77 (with
shipping) off of eBay.
My one concern of course is that it works and doesn't need some
form of
rehabilitation.
I will soon find out.
Most of mine worked. The digital circuitry, as I remember it, is
relatively simple. Just checked the listing. Looks clean from here.
Good luck.
Harvey
On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 11:13 AM Harvey White <
madyn@...>
wrote:
On Tue, 30 Apr 2019 12:47:26 -0700, you wrote:
Hi All,
I need one, good working scope to get started on repairing the
other 30
or so scopes around here. I have a multitude of Tek 7000 frames
to
choose
from but I think the 7904 (or 7904A) is a good place to start.
Once
that's
working + cal'ed I can at least troubleshoot and maybe repair the
others.
Where can I get one professionally calibrated in the greater
Detroit
area? I can drive a fair distance, but I'm scared to ship. I've
had
two
7934's, a 7834, and a 7704A crushed in separate shipping mishaps.
Can't help you there, I'm in the southeast. However...
Also...which plug ins are recommended to cal for building my
golden
scope? I have a collection...
The typical plugins for a 7904 (and that's a good choice, IMHO)
are
at
least one if not two 7A26, and a 7B92A (which I happen to like).
If
you want the flexibility of two sweep plugins, the 7B80 and 7B85
will
do. If you have a 7103/4 and a 7B10 and 7B15, you could use them
but
the sweep is not calibrated at the highest frequencies, but those
could be moved over to the 7103/4 when needed.
For things you'd want:
067-0587-01 signal standardizer. The 01 is intended for 500 mhz
scopes, the 00 is for lower bandwidth, and the 02 is for the 1GHz
bandwidth scopes. Needed to keep the mainframes all agreeing with
each other as well as provides some nice linearity and gain
signals.
You could use the 00, but it wouldn't allow you to check out the
frequency response to the limit of the scope's bandwidth for
higher
bandwidth scopes.
PG506/TG501 SG503/SG504 TM500 plugins that provide calibration
signals for vertical and timebase checking, as well as frequency
response. Those will do any scope. The signal standardizer is
specifically for 7000 series mainframes.
You could also go with a CG501 (TM500) or a CG5001 (TM5000) module
with the appropriate frame. Note that the CG series may need a
specific head to supply the right signals. Those heads may be
difficult to find.
My favorite (depending) setup in a 7904 is a 7A26 (or 7A24 if I
need
more bandwidth and can tolerate a 50 ohm input plugin), a 7D12
with
an
M2 (sampling) module, a 7D15 counter, and a 7B92A sweep.
Harvey
|
I got this one out of the buck a pound box at a surplus vendor at
Dayton a couple years back. It was functional, just needed a battery
pack and there was a fault in the charging circuitry which I fixed.
The TDs were, miraculously, fine.
The cover was twice what I paid for the unit and the repair parts
are around 3X. Nothing like an excuse to spend money.
Paul
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Thu, May 02, 2019 at 06:20:11PM -0400, Harvey White wrote: On Thu, 2 May 2019 13:26:17 -0400, you wrote:
Thanks for the reply Harvey. I have a Mouser order in so I'm just going
to replace all of the HV components and hope the transformer didn't get
toasted. One of those HV caps has a suspicious appearance around
one of the leads. I actually had one that had a bad CRT, bad horizontal board, and a few
problems in the pulse generator (I think it was the 1503). Not sure
what the 1502's problem was, but I actually got one with a good TD.
It may have had the bad HV board.
Harvey
The 6.2M resistor has drifted up to 7.5M in the intensity path, so
replacing that might help a bit too.
Paul
On Wed, May 01, 2019 at 10:58:37AM -0400, Harvey White wrote:
On Tue, 30 Apr 2019 20:44:20 -0400, you wrote:
After accidentally leaving my 1502 on overnight I came back to find
it dead. I eventually traced it down to a HV problem.
This circuit is so simple it's ludicrous but I'm hampered by having
lost my HV probe. In any event, the output across the HV transformer
is a square wave of about 50V; it's supposed to be 500V. If I
disconnect C4328 (connected directly to the transformer), I see the
expected 500V across the transformer. The HV diodes appear to be OK,
but something is loading it down. I've disconnected the CRT and
controls with no change, so it has to be on the board. I repaired my 1502's high voltage section. I saw capacitors that had
cracked, and the diodes weren't all that happy either. IIRC,
microwave oven diodes work. I just tested and replaced all the bad
capacitors.
I don't see any unusually low ohm readings either.
Any ideas for tracking down the failed component or should I just
shotgun the multiplier and replace everything? One cap is 0.033
at 600V and the other 3 are 0.027 at 1200V.
It's been noted that sometimes HV capacitors are OK at lower voltages
and leaky at higher ones.
!DSPAM:5ccb6d29156751858445706!
--
Paul Amaranth, GCIH | Manchester MI, USA
Aurora Group of Michigan, LLC | Security, Systems & Software
paul@... | Unix & Windows
|
Re: Calibration and full checkout needed - Tek 7000 series
And you can get a levelling head kit (no housing) for the SG504 from me ...
David I have one of your kits and have had for quite a while. Just waiting to find an SG504 without head that is less than stupid money ;-) Craig
|
Re: 2465B Branding Question
On Thu, 2 May 2019 10:07:39 -0500, you wrote: After reading your email Harvey I went to see what is available and I
agree, it would be nice to have it also. Yep, I have about 10-15 scopes, variously, and a number of V and H plugins to deal with. Those are good things to have. A good set of extenders is also nice to have, although you can do some work without them. If you're working with the TM500/TM5000 series, then a good set of extender boards is really nice to have. I need to slow down, I would spend myself into a hole in the ground!
For some reason I do not go just 10%, I must go 100% and run out of time to
play with it all! Slow down a bit, plan what you want, then go over that with an idea of what you need.... Then try to get it. Hamfests can be good. I'll donate my stuff to a club when I'm gone, hope someone will have fun
with some of my stuff one day! Always good to spread the wealth that way. Harvey
On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 9:12 PM Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:
On Wed, 1 May 2019 21:02:32 -0500, you wrote:
Great information, and thank you for that.
The option 22 are some probes - but I do not know what probes they were.
If you know, or anyone else, let me know please.
Do you have, or do you know where I can get the software for the P6407/GPIB
Word Recog?
I also would like to know how to use it - I can't find much on the Internet
about it.
But someone is sending me the P6407, it should be here by end of next week.
There's a digital trigger option with a word recognizer, that allows
you to trigger on a digital pattern. That's what the P6407 is used
for. The GPIB option would simply allow you to set that pattern, if
at all, and whatever trigger qualities you need.
Attach the leads to digital signals, set the pattern you want for a
trigger, and the scope should trigger on that one. Never really used
it on my 2430A, but got the trigger generator anyway. Turns out to be
more useful to have a logic analyzer for what I was doing, and I do.
This was a foray into the logic analyzer domain of products to allow
the scope different characteristics.
You use this for digital only and a logic analyzer is better. You use
a digital trigger to look at an analog waveform, and you need either
this scope or we need a logic analyzer with a scope plugin (or
triggering of the scope from the LA.
Harvey
You have a great day!
Tony
On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 6:27 PM Ken Winterling <wa2lbi@...> wrote:
Tony,
FYI, Tektronix produced a number of 2465 model "packages" that included
certain options. I have 2465DVS and it has a DMM.
*Model Includes options*
2465 CTS 9, 10, 22
2465 DMS 1, 9, 10, 22
2465 DVS 1, 5, 9, 10, 22
2465A CT 9, 10, 22
2465A DM 1, 9, 10, 22
2465A DV 1, 5, 9, 10, 22
2465B CT 9, 10, 22
2465B DM 1, 9, 10, 22
2465B DV 1, 5, 9, 10, 22
Ken
WA2LBI
On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 7:03 PM Tony Fleming <czecht@...> wrote:
My scope is 2465 DMS and it has DMM also - not an add-on.
Someone said that mine is 2465 CTS (but I think all CRT scopes can be
called that).
As per catalog Tektronix put out, I could not find my model either!
But there are many catalogs that are incomplete, I think.
If your scope works, the manual for 2465B should be the same.
Also, look at the back of your scope and find a silver tape that has
options printed on it with small holes punched out, if you have that
option.
That is how mine has options 1, 9, 10 and GPIB port.
See if on the back is any other "model number".
I'm looking for the software that would communicate with my computer - does
anyone have the software and or manual for it?
Also, I have a port for P6407 - I also need as much help with that and
software that, I assume, it will need.
Tony
On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 5:45 PM Dave Daniel <kc0wjn@...> wrote:
All,
I have a Trektronix 2465B that has the DMM option physically present.
Looking at the TekWki web page for the 2465B, I see photos that show
this 'scope branded as "2465BVD". My 'scope is branded as "2465B".
The DVM does not appear to have been an add-on.
Can anyone explain how a 2465B with the DMM option would not be
branded
as a 2465BDV?
Thanks
DaveD
|
On Thu, 2 May 2019 13:26:17 -0400, you wrote: Thanks for the reply Harvey. I have a Mouser order in so I'm just going
to replace all of the HV components and hope the transformer didn't get
toasted. One of those HV caps has a suspicious appearance around
one of the leads. I actually had one that had a bad CRT, bad horizontal board, and a few problems in the pulse generator (I think it was the 1503). Not sure what the 1502's problem was, but I actually got one with a good TD. It may have had the bad HV board. Harvey
The 6.2M resistor has drifted up to 7.5M in the intensity path, so
replacing that might help a bit too.
Paul
On Wed, May 01, 2019 at 10:58:37AM -0400, Harvey White wrote:
On Tue, 30 Apr 2019 20:44:20 -0400, you wrote:
After accidentally leaving my 1502 on overnight I came back to find
it dead. I eventually traced it down to a HV problem.
This circuit is so simple it's ludicrous but I'm hampered by having
lost my HV probe. In any event, the output across the HV transformer
is a square wave of about 50V; it's supposed to be 500V. If I
disconnect C4328 (connected directly to the transformer), I see the
expected 500V across the transformer. The HV diodes appear to be OK,
but something is loading it down. I've disconnected the CRT and
controls with no change, so it has to be on the board. I repaired my 1502's high voltage section. I saw capacitors that had
cracked, and the diodes weren't all that happy either. IIRC,
microwave oven diodes work. I just tested and replaced all the bad
capacitors.
I don't see any unusually low ohm readings either.
Any ideas for tracking down the failed component or should I just
shotgun the multiplier and replace everything? One cap is 0.033
at 600V and the other 3 are 0.027 at 1200V.
It's been noted that sometimes HV capacitors are OK at lower voltages
and leaky at higher ones.
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The pressure switch is available at Graingers.
Sent from K5JLR
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-------- Original message -------- From: David Kuhn <Daveyk021@...> Date: 05/02/2019 11:50 AM (GMT-06:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Compressed air " Your idea is correct, the large belt driven compressors are the best and places like Harbor Freight has them brand new for a reasonable price.? " Yea, I have been tempted a few times to use the 25% off coupon to get one, but I usually do not hear good things about there electrical tools. There is an elderly lady down the block that we are friends with.? Her husband (dead 20+ years now) has one of those six foot belt driver compressors near their garage door; I think it is hard wired.? She might use it once a year.? When I turned it on, it was amazingly not deafening. It looks like it was built very well.? I can't get her to? give it or sell it to me - lol.? I kind of pine for it.? It is very old, but still works great and I am sure built better than anything harbor freight has.? Anyway, I'm not sure I should offer much because of its age and I might be better off with a new one.? They probably all need the pressure/electric switch changed every few years and I am not sure where to get that part.? My original one in the dog house, probably 29 years old now and still looking nice, needs that pressure switch.? I could never find the MFG parts list and you wouldn't get one from them after all these years.? I haven't found generic ones either.? Maybe there is generic kits to re-plumb old air compressors?? I'll have to look. Sorry, this is off topic, but I feel every electronics repair lab should have compress air.? Heck where I worked, before GE moved everything, and our jobs overseas, I used a nice high pressure air line.? I could wash boards off with Simple green and then ISO and blow dry them do dry that I could power them up right away without letting them dry overnight.? The air sound drove other around me nuts, but you do what you have to do.? At one point, maintenance was going to change my compressed air plumbing to the nitrogen line (we had a huge nitrogen tank outside) for the drying of boards, then our closing was announce and no one gave a shite about anything for the next year and a half 8-(.? So nitrogen would be better for drying and dusting board than compressed air, but I would not want to foot that bill. Dave Dave On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 11:48 AM Tony Fleming <czecht@...> wrote: Your idea is correct, the large belt driven compressors are the best and
places like Harbor Freight has them brand new for a reasonable price.
Don't forget the water filtration and drain the water from the tank. You
could make a "self draining" or "automatic" condensation purge with an
Arduino or ESP32/ESP8266 and few more parts to open valve.
But a reminder once a month should give you time to check the system and
drain the water from the tank.
On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 10:24 AM David Kuhn <Daveyk021@...> wrote:
" Because they don't have a "quiet" air compressor.? "
That's the biggest problem.? In the garage, I built a compressor dog house
with six inch walls with insulation on all side.? Even the access door is
6" thick with insulation.? It worked great, but the air compressor got used hard.? Well know the saying "out of sight, out of mind"?? That's the
problem.? It never got maintenance.? Now, I just let it be noisy in the
garage as needed.? I don't use it that much, so I just go out and turn it
on as-needed rather than let it be automatic.? I would like to have a huge
tall tank that hold a lot of air; but they can be expensive.? I need to go
to some auctions and find a six foot tall belt driven compressor that can
run only every so often and let it on automatic.
On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 9:59 PM Harvey White <madyn@...>
wrote:
On Wed, 1 May 2019 14:53:04 +0200, you wrote:
I hear conflicting reports on what one should do. What's your take?
Are there different types where you should or shouldn't? Compressed air isn't.? There's not enough room in the an.
Druckluft 67 (aka Dust Off 67) from Kontakt / CRC says not to shake
the can "or otherwise the fluid might come out", but is it always the
case with all types? What is that fluid for, anyways?
The fluid evaporates, produces gas, and that's what your "compressed
air" happens to be.
I read reviews of some cheaper compressed air products on amazon and
they complained about the quality. What can go wrong with compressed
air?
Liquid for one, which you don't want, and then again, what's the
liquid that's evaporating to give you this "air"?
Two things people brought up were one brand produced very weak
pressure, and another produced flammable rather than inert gas. Depends on what's evaporating.? Butane would work, so would freon, so
would a lot of other things, includin propane.
Druckluft 67 touts as being oil free. Are there other things that
might go wrong? er..... what's in that liquid?
Why would someone use canned compressed air rather than an air
compressor?
Because they don't have an air compressor.? Because they don't know
the difference.? Because they don't have a "quiet" air compressor.
Because they don't have the driers and particle filters to clean up
the output air from the compressor (which may or may not have oil in
it from the air pump).
Harvey
Thanks.
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satbeginner
Eric Schumacher