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Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?
Cheeter Wrote: "I don't think you understand. The trace is lifted, and to the lifted
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trace is connected the pad (also lifted), and the part is soldered to that lifted pad and in the air. I need to glue the whole assembly down." I do understand.? But I think you will eventually want to solder on this pad.? I always plan ahead for that.? I would press the pad into place, add a jumper wire along the pad trace to a nearby solid pad, then embed the entire length in epoxy. On Friday, May 3, 2019, 02:31:57 PM CDT, cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote:
On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 5:04 PM machineguy59 via Groups.Io <machineguy59@...> wrote: I heard that from others as well. So that completely rules out CA glue. I have used epoxy and it works but even then a very long dwell with a soldering iron makes it goo, not glue.I don't think you understand. The trace is lifted, and to the lifted trace is connected the pad (also lifted), and the part is soldered to that lifted pad and in the air. I need to glue the whole assembly down. ? ? On Friday, May 3, 2019, 09:21:51 AM CDT, cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote: |
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Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?
Try this site and use any reasonable two part epoxy. If you hold it down
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with tape as they suggest, even if the epoxy softens during soldering it will be held down and harden again. That site has guides for lots of types of repairs. Farnell should have something you can use: Regards, Mark On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 12:44 PM cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote:
Again.... the solder connection is in place. it's just in air. It |
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Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?
Again.... the solder connection is in place. it's just in air. It
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needs to be glued down. On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 9:36 PM Mike D <vfd.ninja@...> wrote:
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Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?
First solder, then JB Weld.
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Mike kd5rjz On Fri, May 3, 2019, 2:34 PM cheater cheater <cheater00@... wrote:
What do you guys think of the DIP Tools Klebefix? (mentioned in my |
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Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?
What do you guys think of the DIP Tools Klebefix? (mentioned in my
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last email). Has anyone here used it? Thanks. On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 9:33 PM cheater00 cheater00 <cheater00@...> wrote:
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Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?
Thanks. I checked them out. I wasn't able to find a place that
actually sells them - do you have a lead? It needs to be in Europe because importing chemicals from outside Europe is pretty much impossible. The only thing I've been able to find so far this... it says it's a highly electrically insulating, chemically curing (no need for air), two-part epoxy glue. It says it's high temperature resistant, but doesn't say what temperature exactly. On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 8:40 PM Reginald Beardsley via Groups.Io <pulaskite@...> wrote:
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Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?
On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 5:04 PM machineguy59 via Groups.Io
<machineguy59@...> wrote: I heard that from others as well. So that completely rules out CA glue. I have used epoxy and it works but even then a very long dwell with a soldering iron makes it goo, not glue.I don't think you understand. The trace is lifted, and to the lifted trace is connected the pad (also lifted), and the part is soldered to that lifted pad and in the air. I need to glue the whole assembly down. On Friday, May 3, 2019, 09:21:51 AM CDT, cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote: |
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Re: Things not clear to me in the 2465 calibration manual
Chuck Harris
Hi Leo,
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Open the calibration section of the manual, and start from the beginning, with power supply verification and adjustments. Continue from that page to the next to the next until you are done. You can do any one of the "automatic" calibration sections by itself, but only if you KNOW that the previous lower numbered steps are correct. If they are not correct, you will have wasted your time. The manual warns regularly at the beginning of each new section. Pressing the A/B Trig button will cause your work to be saved. If you have blown it, you often won't see the failure until the scope has been turned off, allowed to settle, and turned back on later. The infamous Text 04 Error will occur. The "................" error will appear when the scope is placed into a setting that hasn't been adequately calibrated. The "???????????????" error means that no calibration has been attempted... usually. It could mean a blank EAROM. The 2465 has simplified needs compared with the A or B model, The EAROM is pretty reliable, but they do fail, and.... you get to see the Test 04 Error X1, X8, or 1X indication. If you see that error, it almost always means you need a new EAROM. Standard amplitude signals are square waves that come from the PG506 when in the standard amplitude position. It appears you have already found my note about the variable cal click issue. If you leave it out of the click, you will fail later steps. The 2465 is kind of weird in some sections. They use the operator as a visual comparator by way of the LED's along the CH1 AC/DC/GND/50 selector switch. You do a manual adjustment, and when you get really close, the LED's will zip through their states. You will be instructed to stop when the 1MDC segment is stably lit. The A/B models make the DAC and computer do that work. You can leave the cal/nocal jumper in the cal position indefinitely if you want... I don't suggest it, but it has no effect on storage of the calibration. Storage happens when A/B Trig is hit, or when you leave a section automagically. If you A/B Trig out of a section before you complete, goofiness will occur, usually manifesting itself with a lot of "............" on the screen. Try not to do it. -Chuck Harris satbeginner wrote: Hi all, |
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Re: 1502 HV problem
Those Tek engineers thought of everything!JimSent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
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-------- Original message --------From: Tom Gardner <tggzzz@...> Date: 5/3/19 9:55 AM (GMT-08:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 1502 HV problem 1502s have a shorting bar inside the BNC connector, specifically to discharge such static charges.That gives rise to "short circuit" traces such as the trace is the same with the BNC cap removed.The pulse is due to the 70mm (or 90mm, I forget) track inside the 1502 between the sampler and the front panel BNC.On 03/05/19 16:47, Jim Ford wrote:> Don't forget that cables are capacitors and can hold quite a charge.? Short center and outer conductors before connecting to sensitive equipment like TDRs or samplers.
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Re: 1502 HV problem
1502s have a shorting bar inside the BNC connector, specifically to discharge such static charges.
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That gives rise to "short circuit" traces such as where the trace is the same with the BNC cap removed. The pulse is due to the 70mm (or 90mm, I forget) track inside the 1502 between the sampler and the front panel BNC. On 03/05/19 16:47, Jim Ford wrote:
Don't forget that cables are capacitors and can hold quite a charge.? Short center and outer conductors before connecting to sensitive equipment like TDRs or samplers. |
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Re: 1502 HV problem
Craig Sawyers
Sorry - bum steer. The type 284 tunnel diode is the same as in the 7T11.
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Duur Craig -----Original Message----- |
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Re: Calibration and full checkout needed - Tek 7000 series
On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 04:39 PM, Harvey White wrote:
As Harvey says, a 465 would be a good analog choice. The 468 not only is an improved 465 (actually, a 465B), but it adds a digital mode. Depending on the frequencies involved in your "vintage radio repair", you have to be aware of the limited digital BW of the 468. It's nowhere near the analog BW of 100 MHz, more like 10 MHz max. You might want to look at the 7A13 (I prefer the electronic readout one), and the 7A22.Most of the mechanical readout 7A13's have (had) problems with the counter mechanism. Also, it contains relays that tend to have problems. These are a bit difficult to find. The max. sensitivity of the 7A13 is 100 uV / div. Especially for working on audio preamps, the 7A22 is a nice choice. Not only is its max. sensitivity 10 uV / div, it also has individual low pass / high pass settings, a must for the most sensitive V / div settings. Be aware that especially the 7A22 has limited maximum safe input voltage at the most sensitive settings. Also, working on tube circuits isn't safe with all input sensitivities for the 7A13. Raymond |
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Re: 1502 HV problem
Don't forget that cables are capacitors and can hold quite a charge.? Short center and outer conductors before connecting to sensitive equipment like TDRs or samplers.Jim Ford?Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
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-------- Original message --------From: Harvey White <madyn@...> Date: 5/3/19 7:47 AM (GMT-08:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 1502 HV problem On Thu, 2 May 2019 18:29:30 -0400, you wrote:>I got this one out of the buck a pound box at a surplus vendor at>Dayton a couple years back.? It was functional, just needed a battery>pack and there was a fault in the charging circuitry which I fixed.>>The TDs were, miraculously, fine.Highly fortunate.? That's one that nobody has ever found a replacementfor.? My 1502 is sitting on the shelf with its input protector firmly inplace.? I was lucky enough to mange to find all of the accessories forit and a lid as well.? Ditto with the 1503.? Even though the 1503 ismade for longer cables, I think I'd go with that first since it's farmore difficult to damage.I've got a 7D02 microprocessor tester that I paid 5 dollars for, so Iknow the feeling.? It seems to work perfectly except no pods.? Ohwell.? Ought to be on the lookout for that stuff, too.The 1502 is nice, the thing that is confusing between the 1502 and1503 is that while the 1503 has a nice sine squared pulse as theoutput (which gives you the classic reflections), the 1502 has a stepriding on top of a waveform, and you look for the corresponding step,not a sine flavored pulse.Harvey>>The cover was twice what I paid for the unit and the repair parts>are around 3X.? Nothing like an excuse to spend money.>>? Paul>>>On Thu, May 02, 2019 at 06:20:11PM -0400, Harvey White wrote:>> On Thu, 2 May 2019 13:26:17 -0400, you wrote:>> >> >Thanks for the reply Harvey.? I have a Mouser order in so I'm just going>> >to replace all of the HV components and hope the transformer didn't get>> >toasted.? One of those HV caps has a suspicious appearance around>> >one of the leads.>> >> I actually had one that had a bad CRT, bad horizontal board, and a few>> problems in the pulse generator (I think it was the 1503).? Not sure>> what the 1502's problem was, but I actually got one with a good TD.>> >> It may have had the bad HV board.>> >> Harvey>> >> >> >>> >The 6.2M resistor has drifted up to 7.5M in the intensity path, so>> >replacing that might help a bit too.>> >>> >? Paul>> >>> >On Wed, May 01, 2019 at 10:58:37AM -0400, Harvey White wrote:>> >> On Tue, 30 Apr 2019 20:44:20 -0400, you wrote:>> >> >> >> >After accidentally leaving my 1502 on overnight I came back to find>> >> >it dead.? I eventually traced it down to a HV problem.>> >> >>> >> >This circuit is so simple it's ludicrous but I'm hampered by having>> >> >lost my HV probe.? In any event, the output across the HV transformer>> >> >is a square wave of about 50V; it's supposed to be 500V.? If I >> >> >disconnect C4328 (connected directly to the transformer), I see the>> >> >expected 500V across the transformer.? The HV diodes appear to be OK,>> >> >but something is loading it down.? I've disconnected the CRT and>> >> >controls with no change, so it has to be on the board.>> >> >> >> I repaired my 1502's high voltage section.? I saw capacitors that had>> >> cracked, and the diodes weren't all that happy either.? IIRC,>> >> microwave oven diodes work.? I just tested and replaced all the bad>> >> capacitors.? >> >> >> >> >>> >> >I don't see any unusually low ohm readings either.>> >> >>> >> >Any ideas for tracking down the failed component or should I just>> >> >shotgun the multiplier and replace everything?? One cap is 0.033>> >> >at 600V and the other 3 are 0.027 at 1200V.>> >> >> >> It's been noted that sometimes HV capacitors are OK at lower voltages>> >> and leaky at higher ones.>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> !DSPAM:5ccb6d29156751858445706!>>
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Re: Calibration and full checkout needed - Tek 7000 series
5000 series also good for low-level, low-frequency signals like audio.? ?Simple, cheap, and easily repaired. See TekWiki.?Jim FordSent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
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-------- Original message --------From: Harvey White <madyn@...> Date: 5/3/19 7:39 AM (GMT-08:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Calibration and full checkout needed - Tek 7000 series On Thu, 2 May 2019 19:59:08 -0400, you wrote:>Harvey, to your point about the application, to be clear, my applications>in order of priority are:>>1. tube amp repair.. basically an audio application involving low>frequencies. I occasionally end up in solid state land but have had luck>isolating a misbehaving component with old time techniques.>2. vintage radio repair>>So, very basic stuff where the exacting accuracy of the oscilloscope may>not be necessary. But I'd like for them to be the ballpark.Ballpark you can get without special equipment.? DMM calibration issomething else, but there are 10 volt very accurate referencesavailable.? It's when you star looking at 4 1/2 digits and up wherethings start to get tricky with the reference.? That's also just DCvolts, AC, ohms, and current are separate matters.For what you're looking at, you would like to have a 100 Mhz scope, atleast dual channels.? If you're doing audio and you want to startpoking around audio preamps, you'd want a fairly sensitive scope tomatch the expected signal levels.5 mv/div may be too little.For portable scopes, the 465 would do well.? If you want digital as anadd-on (either, without forcing you into digital at all times), then a468 would work well.IF you want a 7000 series scope, then a 7603 would do well, 7B53plugin for sweep, 7A26 (two of them) gives you 4 channels, a pair of7A18's would give you 75 Mhz bandwidth, which would be good enough,although I'd go for the 7A26 if you get another scope frame.You might want to look at the 7A13 (I prefer the electronic readoutone), and the 7A22. Both are differential, have some good low ends forinput ranges, and may be more of what you want for debugging preamps.almost any 10x probe with a 1meg input match on the plugin would work.If you care to, the 7704 is a 200 Mhz bandwidth scope, and would workwell with the same plugins.For specialized test equipment, the SG502 is an ultra low distortionsignal generator module, and the AA501 or AA5001 is a distortionanalyzer.? Bear in mind that audio enthusiasts have bid up the priceson these, because price is no object.Nice to have, though.a good 4 1/2 digit meter would help, you'd like the full range of AC,DC, AC current (could be useful) and DC current.Harvey>>On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 7:27 PM Tony Fleming <czecht@...> wrote:>>> Sorry for asking this question: What is " levelling head kit" ?>> I think it has something to do with calibration....>>>> On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 5:25 PM Craig Sawyers <>> c.sawyers@...>>> wrote:>>>> > > And you can get a levelling head kit (no housing) for the SG504 from me>> > ...>> > >>> > > David>> >>> > I have one of your kits and have had for quite a while. Just waiting to>> > find an SG504 without head>> > that is less than stupid money ;-)>> >>> > Craig>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>>> >>>>>>>
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Re: 1502 HV problem
There is supposed to be a Russian substitute for the 20mA diode.
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My notes show it as 1i308e/Gi308e but I have never been able to find one. The 10mA one can be replaced with a AI201V, which isn't hard to find. The BNC cap on mine is not a shorting type, even though it's a later model (sn B102402). I'd bet the battery went bad and it was put on a shelf. Paul On Fri, May 03, 2019 at 10:47:43AM -0400, Harvey White wrote:
On Thu, 2 May 2019 18:29:30 -0400, you wrote:I got this one out of the buck a pound box at a surplus vendor atHighly fortunate. That's one that nobody has ever found a replacement --
Paul Amaranth, GCIH | Manchester MI, USA Aurora Group of Michigan, LLC | Security, Systems & Software paul@... | Unix & Windows |
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Re: Things not clear to me in the 2465 calibration manual
HI all,
using the search I found this, that answers at least one of my questions: ============================================ Do CAL01 first! After CAL02 step "g" is done, but before you start step "h", put the CH1 VAR control back into its click position. The instructions are silent, but do it anyway. ============================================ My search continues, Un saludo, leo |
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Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?
I have tried CA glue on a lifted pad.? It stuck at first but failed immediately when barely touched with a soldering iron.? In your case the continuity is already there and you might risk not re-soldering that pad (for now).? But I, personally, do not feel that is acceptable in my equipment.
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I have used epoxy and it works but even then a very long dwell with a soldering iron makes it goo, not glue. On Friday, May 3, 2019, 09:21:51 AM CDT, cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote:
Thanks for the ideas. Tge trackbis just lifted, there is no break. It's flexible, held together by the conformal coating, and there's continuity. So, I want to glue it down. I don't think it would be possible to get epoxy under there, as I don't think it will wick. However CA glue will. What do you think of that? On Fri, 3 May 2019, 15:56 Brendan via Groups.Io <the_infinite_penguin= [email protected] wrote: On Fri, May? 3, 2019 at 06:29 AM, cheater cheater wrote:glue |
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