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Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?

 

Cheeter Wrote: "I don't think you understand. The trace is lifted, and to the lifted
trace is connected the pad (also lifted), and the part is soldered to
that lifted pad and in the air. I need to glue the whole assembly
down."
I do understand.? But I think you will eventually want to solder on this pad.? I always plan ahead for that.? I would press the pad into place, add a jumper wire along the pad trace to a nearby solid pad, then embed the entire length in epoxy.

On Friday, May 3, 2019, 02:31:57 PM CDT, cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote:

On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 5:04 PM machineguy59 via Groups.Io
<machineguy59@...> wrote:

? I have tried CA glue on a lifted pad.? It stuck at first but failed immediately when barely touched with a soldering iron.? In your case the continuity is already there and you might risk not re-soldering that pad (for now).? But I, personally, do not feel that is acceptable in my equipment.
I heard that from others as well. So that completely rules out CA glue.

I have used epoxy and it works but even then a very long dwell with a soldering iron makes it goo, not glue.
I don't think you understand. The trace is lifted, and to the lifted
trace is connected the pad (also lifted), and the part is soldered to
that lifted pad and in the air. I need to glue the whole assembly
down.

? ? On Friday, May 3, 2019, 09:21:51 AM CDT, cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote:

? Thanks for the ideas.

Tge trackbis just lifted, there is no break. It's flexible, held together
by the conformal coating, and there's continuity. So, I want to glue it
down. I don't think it would be possible to get epoxy under there, as I
don't think it will wick. However CA glue will. What do you think of that?

On Fri, 3 May 2019, 15:56 Brendan via Groups.Io <the_infinite_penguin=
[email protected] wrote:

On Fri, May? 3, 2019 at 06:29 AM, cheater cheater wrote:


I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the
glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder? on the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that?
Thanks.
This is what I use. It is actually a pcb over coat epoxy but it seems to
stand up well to heat.











Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?

 

Try this site and use any reasonable two part epoxy. If you hold it down
with tape as they suggest, even if the epoxy softens during soldering it
will be held down and harden again.



That site has guides for lots of types of repairs.

Farnell should have something you can use:



Regards,

Mark

On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 12:44 PM cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote:

Again.... the solder connection is in place. it's just in air. It
needs to be glued down.

On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 9:36 PM Mike D <vfd.ninja@...> wrote:

First solder, then JB Weld.

Mike kd5rjz

On Fri, May 3, 2019, 2:34 PM cheater cheater <cheater00@... wrote:

What do you guys think of the DIP Tools Klebefix? (mentioned in my
last email). Has anyone here used it? Thanks.

On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 9:33 PM cheater00 cheater00 <
cheater00@...>
wrote:

Thanks. I checked them out. I wasn't able to find a place that
actually sells them - do you have a lead? It needs to be in Europe
because importing chemicals from outside Europe is pretty much
impossible.

The only thing I've been able to find so far this...


it says it's a highly electrically insulating, chemically curing (no
need for air), two-part epoxy glue. It says it's high temperature
resistant, but doesn't say what temperature exactly.

On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 8:40 PM Reginald Beardsley via Groups.Io
<pulaskite@...> wrote:

Take a look at these:



All of them are rated to above the eutectic of lead tin solder.








Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?

 

Again.... the solder connection is in place. it's just in air. It
needs to be glued down.

On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 9:36 PM Mike D <vfd.ninja@...> wrote:

First solder, then JB Weld.

Mike kd5rjz

On Fri, May 3, 2019, 2:34 PM cheater cheater <cheater00@... wrote:

What do you guys think of the DIP Tools Klebefix? (mentioned in my
last email). Has anyone here used it? Thanks.

On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 9:33 PM cheater00 cheater00 <cheater00@...>
wrote:

Thanks. I checked them out. I wasn't able to find a place that
actually sells them - do you have a lead? It needs to be in Europe
because importing chemicals from outside Europe is pretty much
impossible.

The only thing I've been able to find so far this...


it says it's a highly electrically insulating, chemically curing (no
need for air), two-part epoxy glue. It says it's high temperature
resistant, but doesn't say what temperature exactly.

On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 8:40 PM Reginald Beardsley via Groups.Io
<pulaskite@...> wrote:

Take a look at these:



All of them are rated to above the eutectic of lead tin solder.






Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?

 

First solder, then JB Weld.

Mike kd5rjz

On Fri, May 3, 2019, 2:34 PM cheater cheater <cheater00@... wrote:

What do you guys think of the DIP Tools Klebefix? (mentioned in my
last email). Has anyone here used it? Thanks.

On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 9:33 PM cheater00 cheater00 <cheater00@...>
wrote:

Thanks. I checked them out. I wasn't able to find a place that
actually sells them - do you have a lead? It needs to be in Europe
because importing chemicals from outside Europe is pretty much
impossible.

The only thing I've been able to find so far this...


it says it's a highly electrically insulating, chemically curing (no
need for air), two-part epoxy glue. It says it's high temperature
resistant, but doesn't say what temperature exactly.

On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 8:40 PM Reginald Beardsley via Groups.Io
<pulaskite@...> wrote:

Take a look at these:



All of them are rated to above the eutectic of lead tin solder.





Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?

 

What do you guys think of the DIP Tools Klebefix? (mentioned in my
last email). Has anyone here used it? Thanks.

On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 9:33 PM cheater00 cheater00 <cheater00@...> wrote:

Thanks. I checked them out. I wasn't able to find a place that
actually sells them - do you have a lead? It needs to be in Europe
because importing chemicals from outside Europe is pretty much
impossible.

The only thing I've been able to find so far this...


it says it's a highly electrically insulating, chemically curing (no
need for air), two-part epoxy glue. It says it's high temperature
resistant, but doesn't say what temperature exactly.

On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 8:40 PM Reginald Beardsley via Groups.Io
<pulaskite@...> wrote:

Take a look at these:



All of them are rated to above the eutectic of lead tin solder.



Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?

 

Thanks. I checked them out. I wasn't able to find a place that
actually sells them - do you have a lead? It needs to be in Europe
because importing chemicals from outside Europe is pretty much
impossible.

The only thing I've been able to find so far this...


it says it's a highly electrically insulating, chemically curing (no
need for air), two-part epoxy glue. It says it's high temperature
resistant, but doesn't say what temperature exactly.

On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 8:40 PM Reginald Beardsley via Groups.Io
<pulaskite@...> wrote:

Take a look at these:



All of them are rated to above the eutectic of lead tin solder.



Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?

 

On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 5:04 PM machineguy59 via Groups.Io
<machineguy59@...> wrote:

I have tried CA glue on a lifted pad. It stuck at first but failed immediately when barely touched with a soldering iron. In your case the continuity is already there and you might risk not re-soldering that pad (for now). But I, personally, do not feel that is acceptable in my equipment.
I heard that from others as well. So that completely rules out CA glue.

I have used epoxy and it works but even then a very long dwell with a soldering iron makes it goo, not glue.
I don't think you understand. The trace is lifted, and to the lifted
trace is connected the pad (also lifted), and the part is soldered to
that lifted pad and in the air. I need to glue the whole assembly
down.

On Friday, May 3, 2019, 09:21:51 AM CDT, cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote:

Thanks for the ideas.

Tge trackbis just lifted, there is no break. It's flexible, held together
by the conformal coating, and there's continuity. So, I want to glue it
down. I don't think it would be possible to get epoxy under there, as I
don't think it will wick. However CA glue will. What do you think of that?

On Fri, 3 May 2019, 15:56 Brendan via Groups.Io <the_infinite_penguin=
[email protected] wrote:

On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 06:29 AM, cheater cheater wrote:


I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the
glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that?
Thanks.
This is what I use. It is actually a pcb over coat epoxy but it seems to
stand up well to heat.











Re: Things not clear to me in the 2465 calibration manual

Chuck Harris
 

Hi Leo,

Open the calibration section of the manual, and start
from the beginning, with power supply verification and
adjustments.

Continue from that page to the next to the next until you
are done.

You can do any one of the "automatic" calibration sections
by itself, but only if you KNOW that the previous lower
numbered steps are correct. If they are not correct, you
will have wasted your time. The manual warns regularly at
the beginning of each new section.

Pressing the A/B Trig button will cause your work to be
saved.

If you have blown it, you often won't see the failure until
the scope has been turned off, allowed to settle, and turned
back on later. The infamous Text 04 Error will occur.

The "................" error will appear when the scope is
placed into a setting that hasn't been adequately calibrated.

The "???????????????" error means that no calibration has been
attempted... usually. It could mean a blank EAROM.

The 2465 has simplified needs compared with the A or B model,
The EAROM is pretty reliable, but they do fail, and.... you get
to see the Test 04 Error X1, X8, or 1X indication. If you see
that error, it almost always means you need a new EAROM.

Standard amplitude signals are square waves that come from the
PG506 when in the standard amplitude position.

It appears you have already found my note about the variable cal
click issue. If you leave it out of the click, you will fail
later steps.

The 2465 is kind of weird in some sections. They use the operator
as a visual comparator by way of the LED's along the CH1 AC/DC/GND/50
selector switch. You do a manual adjustment, and when you get really
close, the LED's will zip through their states. You will be instructed
to stop when the 1MDC segment is stably lit. The A/B models make
the DAC and computer do that work.

You can leave the cal/nocal jumper in the cal position indefinitely
if you want... I don't suggest it, but it has no effect on storage
of the calibration. Storage happens when A/B Trig is hit, or when
you leave a section automagically. If you A/B Trig out of a section
before you complete, goofiness will occur, usually manifesting itself
with a lot of "............" on the screen. Try not to do it.

-Chuck Harris




satbeginner wrote:

Hi all,

I am (again :-) ) in the process of calibrating one of my 2465's scopes, I got it broken, with the Cal-jumper in the Cal position and showing a row of dots at the bottom of the screen.
It has through hole A5 board with a 156-1566-00 (GI8341R) EAROM chip, so no Dallas, No battery, just this chip.
Since I only do a calibration every now and then -like once every two years- it always is some sort of struggle for me, because -to me- some things are not clear and maybe there is somebody to shed some light on this.

This is how I see things now:

Cal1 is calibration of everything horizontal / Timing, so we need a calibrated source of markers, I use a TG-501, which makes this quite easy.
I check things afterwards using a GPSDO generator, and this always checks out perfectly, once succeeded...

Cal2 is everything vertical, I use a HP 3314 which is not good enough, but I double check the levels on both my TDS540B and another 2465 at the same time.
I know it is not a real calibration, but as long I do not have a proper source to generate these signals properly, this will do for me.

Cal3 is trigger-levels, only two levels needed, so not a real problem there.

Cal4 is correction of a phase-difference between Ch1 and Ch2, also quite straight forward.

There are several things that are not clear to me, I know a lot of questions, here they are:

- After a calibration, a signal is not showing the proper amplitude, and when I turn the Ch2 V/Div to 2mV the row of dots re-appear. Any information on this please?

- During steps G 111 in Cal2, where you position the two dots at the beginning and the end of the screen at a 10 division separation,
and steps H and I, do I need to put the Ch1 Var back into detent or not? If so, when exactly?
- Do I need to do that after step 112?
- Do I leave it in the previous Var position used in step G for the rest of the process?

- At the beginning of step 121 it asks for a standard-amplitude sigal of 500 mV.
Only in the military calibration manual for a 2465B (*TB 9-6625-2295-35) it says it needs to be a 1kHz square wave positive going from 0V to 500 mV, but in my 2465 manual 070-3831-00 is just says "standard-amplitude",
so I use the signal as specified in the military manual. (0 - 500 mV square wave)

- Will a calibration ONLY be successful when ALL steps in ALL four parts (Cal 1-4) were done without seeing ANY Limit messages, or can you retry a certain step when a Limit message appears?

- Can you stop and save calibration in between the four parts of the process, if so, how?

- And maybe the most important question:
What is the only correct order of ending the calibration-process?
The manual says Press A/B Trig to return to normal operating mode, put the jumper to the NoCal position and disconnect the test setup.
But somehow I have the impression it does not always save the calibration, but this could be caused by something else too.

So first press-and-release the A/B Trig button, than put the jumper back to No-Cal, and than Power-Off or, press-and-release the A/B Trig button Power-Off and now put the jumper to No-Cal, or just Power-Off and put the jumper back?

BTW, by accident I found that when you leave the Cal-NoCal jumper out the scope will run a sort of Control-Panel led-test in a loop, showing an All-Pass message on the screen.

Hoping to get some input on my questions,

Un saludo,

Leo







Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?

 

Take a look at these:



All of them are rated to above the eutectic of lead tin solder.


Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?

 

Absolutely use epoxy on the connector.

Sent from kjo iPhone


Re: 1502 HV problem

 

Those Tek engineers thought of everything!JimSent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-------- Original message --------From: Tom Gardner <tggzzz@...> Date: 5/3/19 9:55 AM (GMT-08:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 1502 HV problem 1502s have a shorting bar inside the BNC connector, specifically to discharge such static charges.That gives rise to "short circuit" traces such as the trace is the same with the BNC cap removed.The pulse is due to the 70mm (or 90mm, I forget) track inside the 1502 between the sampler and the front panel BNC.On 03/05/19 16:47, Jim Ford wrote:> Don't forget that cables are capacitors and can hold quite a charge.? Short center and outer conductors before connecting to sensitive equipment like TDRs or samplers.


Re: 1502 HV problem

 

1502s have a shorting bar inside the BNC connector, specifically to discharge such static charges.

That gives rise to "short circuit" traces such as

where the trace is the same with the BNC cap removed.

The pulse is due to the 70mm (or 90mm, I forget) track inside the 1502 between the sampler and the front panel BNC.

On 03/05/19 16:47, Jim Ford wrote:
Don't forget that cables are capacitors and can hold quite a charge.? Short center and outer conductors before connecting to sensitive equipment like TDRs or samplers.


Re: 1502 HV problem

Craig Sawyers
 

Sorry - bum steer. The type 284 tunnel diode is the same as in the 7T11.

Duur

Craig

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Craig Sawyers
Sent: 03 May 2019 17:41
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 1502 HV problem

The TDs were, miraculously, fine.
Highly fortunate. That's one that nobody has ever found a replacement for.
FWIW it is also used in the 7T11 sampling timebase.

Craig




Re: 1502 HV problem

Craig Sawyers
 

The TDs were, miraculously, fine.
Highly fortunate. That's one that nobody has ever found a replacement for.
FWIW it is also used in the 7T11 sampling timebase.

Craig


Re: Calibration and full checkout needed - Tek 7000 series

 

On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 04:39 PM, Harvey White wrote:


If you want digital as an
add-on (either, without forcing you into digital at all times), then a
468 would work well.
As Harvey says, a 465 would be a good analog choice. The 468 not only is an improved 465 (actually, a 465B), but it adds a digital mode. Depending on the frequencies involved in your "vintage radio repair", you have to be aware of the limited digital BW of the 468. It's nowhere near the analog BW of 100 MHz, more like 10 MHz max.

You might want to look at the 7A13 (I prefer the electronic readout one), and the 7A22.
Most of the mechanical readout 7A13's have (had) problems with the counter mechanism. Also, it contains relays that tend to have problems. These are a bit difficult to find. The max. sensitivity of the 7A13 is 100 uV / div.
Especially for working on audio preamps, the 7A22 is a nice choice. Not only is its max. sensitivity 10 uV / div, it also has individual low pass / high pass settings, a must for the most sensitive V / div settings.
Be aware that especially the 7A22 has limited maximum safe input voltage at the most sensitive settings. Also, working on tube circuits isn't safe with all input sensitivities for the 7A13.

Raymond


Re: 1502 HV problem

 

Don't forget that cables are capacitors and can hold quite a charge.? Short center and outer conductors before connecting to sensitive equipment like TDRs or samplers.Jim Ford?Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-------- Original message --------From: Harvey White <madyn@...> Date: 5/3/19 7:47 AM (GMT-08:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 1502 HV problem On Thu, 2 May 2019 18:29:30 -0400, you wrote:>I got this one out of the buck a pound box at a surplus vendor at>Dayton a couple years back.? It was functional, just needed a battery>pack and there was a fault in the charging circuitry which I fixed.>>The TDs were, miraculously, fine.Highly fortunate.? That's one that nobody has ever found a replacementfor.? My 1502 is sitting on the shelf with its input protector firmly inplace.? I was lucky enough to mange to find all of the accessories forit and a lid as well.? Ditto with the 1503.? Even though the 1503 ismade for longer cables, I think I'd go with that first since it's farmore difficult to damage.I've got a 7D02 microprocessor tester that I paid 5 dollars for, so Iknow the feeling.? It seems to work perfectly except no pods.? Ohwell.? Ought to be on the lookout for that stuff, too.The 1502 is nice, the thing that is confusing between the 1502 and1503 is that while the 1503 has a nice sine squared pulse as theoutput (which gives you the classic reflections), the 1502 has a stepriding on top of a waveform, and you look for the corresponding step,not a sine flavored pulse.Harvey>>The cover was twice what I paid for the unit and the repair parts>are around 3X.? Nothing like an excuse to spend money.>>? Paul>>>On Thu, May 02, 2019 at 06:20:11PM -0400, Harvey White wrote:>> On Thu, 2 May 2019 13:26:17 -0400, you wrote:>> >> >Thanks for the reply Harvey.? I have a Mouser order in so I'm just going>> >to replace all of the HV components and hope the transformer didn't get>> >toasted.? One of those HV caps has a suspicious appearance around>> >one of the leads.>> >> I actually had one that had a bad CRT, bad horizontal board, and a few>> problems in the pulse generator (I think it was the 1503).? Not sure>> what the 1502's problem was, but I actually got one with a good TD.>> >> It may have had the bad HV board.>> >> Harvey>> >> >> >>> >The 6.2M resistor has drifted up to 7.5M in the intensity path, so>> >replacing that might help a bit too.>> >>> >? Paul>> >>> >On Wed, May 01, 2019 at 10:58:37AM -0400, Harvey White wrote:>> >> On Tue, 30 Apr 2019 20:44:20 -0400, you wrote:>> >> >> >> >After accidentally leaving my 1502 on overnight I came back to find>> >> >it dead.? I eventually traced it down to a HV problem.>> >> >>> >> >This circuit is so simple it's ludicrous but I'm hampered by having>> >> >lost my HV probe.? In any event, the output across the HV transformer>> >> >is a square wave of about 50V; it's supposed to be 500V.? If I >> >> >disconnect C4328 (connected directly to the transformer), I see the>> >> >expected 500V across the transformer.? The HV diodes appear to be OK,>> >> >but something is loading it down.? I've disconnected the CRT and>> >> >controls with no change, so it has to be on the board.>> >> >> >> I repaired my 1502's high voltage section.? I saw capacitors that had>> >> cracked, and the diodes weren't all that happy either.? IIRC,>> >> microwave oven diodes work.? I just tested and replaced all the bad>> >> capacitors.? >> >> >> >> >>> >> >I don't see any unusually low ohm readings either.>> >> >>> >> >Any ideas for tracking down the failed component or should I just>> >> >shotgun the multiplier and replace everything?? One cap is 0.033>> >> >at 600V and the other 3 are 0.027 at 1200V.>> >> >> >> It's been noted that sometimes HV capacitors are OK at lower voltages>> >> and leaky at higher ones.>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> !DSPAM:5ccb6d29156751858445706!>>


Re: Calibration and full checkout needed - Tek 7000 series

 

5000 series also good for low-level, low-frequency signals like audio.? ?Simple, cheap, and easily repaired. See TekWiki.?Jim FordSent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-------- Original message --------From: Harvey White <madyn@...> Date: 5/3/19 7:39 AM (GMT-08:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Calibration and full checkout needed - Tek 7000 series On Thu, 2 May 2019 19:59:08 -0400, you wrote:>Harvey, to your point about the application, to be clear, my applications>in order of priority are:>>1. tube amp repair.. basically an audio application involving low>frequencies. I occasionally end up in solid state land but have had luck>isolating a misbehaving component with old time techniques.>2. vintage radio repair>>So, very basic stuff where the exacting accuracy of the oscilloscope may>not be necessary. But I'd like for them to be the ballpark.Ballpark you can get without special equipment.? DMM calibration issomething else, but there are 10 volt very accurate referencesavailable.? It's when you star looking at 4 1/2 digits and up wherethings start to get tricky with the reference.? That's also just DCvolts, AC, ohms, and current are separate matters.For what you're looking at, you would like to have a 100 Mhz scope, atleast dual channels.? If you're doing audio and you want to startpoking around audio preamps, you'd want a fairly sensitive scope tomatch the expected signal levels.5 mv/div may be too little.For portable scopes, the 465 would do well.? If you want digital as anadd-on (either, without forcing you into digital at all times), then a468 would work well.IF you want a 7000 series scope, then a 7603 would do well, 7B53plugin for sweep, 7A26 (two of them) gives you 4 channels, a pair of7A18's would give you 75 Mhz bandwidth, which would be good enough,although I'd go for the 7A26 if you get another scope frame.You might want to look at the 7A13 (I prefer the electronic readoutone), and the 7A22. Both are differential, have some good low ends forinput ranges, and may be more of what you want for debugging preamps.almost any 10x probe with a 1meg input match on the plugin would work.If you care to, the 7704 is a 200 Mhz bandwidth scope, and would workwell with the same plugins.For specialized test equipment, the SG502 is an ultra low distortionsignal generator module, and the AA501 or AA5001 is a distortionanalyzer.? Bear in mind that audio enthusiasts have bid up the priceson these, because price is no object.Nice to have, though.a good 4 1/2 digit meter would help, you'd like the full range of AC,DC, AC current (could be useful) and DC current.Harvey>>On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 7:27 PM Tony Fleming <czecht@...> wrote:>>> Sorry for asking this question: What is " levelling head kit" ?>> I think it has something to do with calibration....>>>> On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 5:25 PM Craig Sawyers <>> c.sawyers@...>>> wrote:>>>> > > And you can get a levelling head kit (no housing) for the SG504 from me>> > ...>> > >>> > > David>> >>> > I have one of your kits and have had for quite a while. Just waiting to>> > find an SG504 without head>> > that is less than stupid money ;-)>> >>> > Craig>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>>> >>>>>>>


Re: 1502 HV problem

 

There is supposed to be a Russian substitute for the 20mA diode.
My notes show it as 1i308e/Gi308e but I have never been able to
find one.

The 10mA one can be replaced with a AI201V, which isn't hard to
find.

The BNC cap on mine is not a shorting type, even though it's
a later model (sn B102402). I'd bet the battery went bad and
it was put on a shelf.

Paul

On Fri, May 03, 2019 at 10:47:43AM -0400, Harvey White wrote:
On Thu, 2 May 2019 18:29:30 -0400, you wrote:

I got this one out of the buck a pound box at a surplus vendor at
Dayton a couple years back. It was functional, just needed a battery
pack and there was a fault in the charging circuitry which I fixed.

The TDs were, miraculously, fine.
Highly fortunate. That's one that nobody has ever found a replacement
for.

My 1502 is sitting on the shelf with its input protector firmly in
place. I was lucky enough to mange to find all of the accessories for
it and a lid as well. Ditto with the 1503. Even though the 1503 is
made for longer cables, I think I'd go with that first since it's far
more difficult to damage.

I've got a 7D02 microprocessor tester that I paid 5 dollars for, so I
know the feeling. It seems to work perfectly except no pods. Oh
well. Ought to be on the lookout for that stuff, too.

The 1502 is nice, the thing that is confusing between the 1502 and
1503 is that while the 1503 has a nice sine squared pulse as the
output (which gives you the classic reflections), the 1502 has a step
riding on top of a waveform, and you look for the corresponding step,
not a sine flavored pulse.

Harvey



The cover was twice what I paid for the unit and the repair parts
are around 3X. Nothing like an excuse to spend money.

Paul


On Thu, May 02, 2019 at 06:20:11PM -0400, Harvey White wrote:
On Thu, 2 May 2019 13:26:17 -0400, you wrote:

Thanks for the reply Harvey. I have a Mouser order in so I'm just going
to replace all of the HV components and hope the transformer didn't get
toasted. One of those HV caps has a suspicious appearance around
one of the leads.
I actually had one that had a bad CRT, bad horizontal board, and a few
problems in the pulse generator (I think it was the 1503). Not sure
what the 1502's problem was, but I actually got one with a good TD.

It may have had the bad HV board.

Harvey



The 6.2M resistor has drifted up to 7.5M in the intensity path, so
replacing that might help a bit too.

Paul

On Wed, May 01, 2019 at 10:58:37AM -0400, Harvey White wrote:
On Tue, 30 Apr 2019 20:44:20 -0400, you wrote:

After accidentally leaving my 1502 on overnight I came back to find
it dead. I eventually traced it down to a HV problem.

This circuit is so simple it's ludicrous but I'm hampered by having
lost my HV probe. In any event, the output across the HV transformer
is a square wave of about 50V; it's supposed to be 500V. If I
disconnect C4328 (connected directly to the transformer), I see the
expected 500V across the transformer. The HV diodes appear to be OK,
but something is loading it down. I've disconnected the CRT and
controls with no change, so it has to be on the board.
I repaired my 1502's high voltage section. I saw capacitors that had
cracked, and the diodes weren't all that happy either. IIRC,
microwave oven diodes work. I just tested and replaced all the bad
capacitors.


I don't see any unusually low ohm readings either.

Any ideas for tracking down the failed component or should I just
shotgun the multiplier and replace everything? One cap is 0.033
at 600V and the other 3 are 0.027 at 1200V.
It's been noted that sometimes HV capacitors are OK at lower voltages
and leaky at higher ones.









!DSPAM:5ccc54a9172768481463351!
--
Paul Amaranth, GCIH | Manchester MI, USA
Aurora Group of Michigan, LLC | Security, Systems & Software
paul@... | Unix & Windows


Re: Things not clear to me in the 2465 calibration manual

 

HI all,

using the search I found this, that answers at least one of my questions:
============================================
Do CAL01 first!

After CAL02 step "g" is done, but before you start step "h",
put the CH1 VAR control back into its click position. The
instructions are silent, but do it anyway.
============================================

My search continues,

Un saludo,

leo


Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?

 

I have tried CA glue on a lifted pad.? It stuck at first but failed immediately when barely touched with a soldering iron.? In your case the continuity is already there and you might risk not re-soldering that pad (for now).? But I, personally, do not feel that is acceptable in my equipment.
I have used epoxy and it works but even then a very long dwell with a soldering iron makes it goo, not glue.

On Friday, May 3, 2019, 09:21:51 AM CDT, cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote:

Thanks for the ideas.

Tge trackbis just lifted, there is no break. It's flexible, held together
by the conformal coating, and there's continuity. So, I want to glue it
down. I don't think it would be possible to get epoxy under there, as I
don't think it will wick. However CA glue will. What do you think of that?

On Fri, 3 May 2019, 15:56 Brendan via Groups.Io <the_infinite_penguin=
[email protected] wrote:

On Fri, May? 3, 2019 at 06:29 AM, cheater cheater wrote:


I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the
glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder? on the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that?
Thanks.
This is what I use. It is actually a pcb over coat epoxy but it seems to
stand up well to heat.