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There's a kit out there to make your own dry transfer decals. It gets fairly involved, but I used it to make some labels for a 465 I was restoring. It worked fairly well, but it was such trouble that

I think you can buy protective lacquer that will not cause the printing to bloom or smudge. Scotch Magic Tape is pretty tough but I wonder of the lacquer is better. I've used ink jet decal material to

I have an ALPS MD1000 I have dedicated to decals. I might buy some water slide decal paper and try this for the cal button on my 576 curve tracer.

Hi Gang: I generated script on my computer that most closely matched the script on the 485's I work on then print the result on laser approved decal paper. I run the paper through the laser printer

You do make an excellent point, although I expect they are somewhat more sensitive to environmental conditions, temp, vibration, shock and so on. That said I'm not planning on operating mine on an

That is exactly what I did with mine, pretty much to the letter. Glad that it worked for you too. Craig

Jeff, Ed (Breya) nailed it and indeed some printers drivers also have the option. In the case where your printer driver has it, you don't even need to use CutePDF writer. But it's so handy and freely

Thanks JJ, I`ll try to find it nearby, at some local artist's store. I may very well change my approach for the buttons of my 7623A. Those buttons (of my 7623A) are not faded (maybe only one) but

There are several ways it could be done. Either a list of modern parts from one or more OEMs for each model, to a database for as many replacements for Tek parts as possible and maybe hosted on

Ed, It was sort of an amateur (and anxiety driven) approach. The fact is that I printed that sheet on my work's laser printer (on a Friday) and didn't know then if the toner would even stick to the

========================================================== A 386 lamp has a MTBF of 15,000 or 40,000 hours depending on what data sheet you look at. How many hours do you operate your 453 in a

Fabio, The white stuff is Liquitex - an acrylic paint medium used by artists to mix colors. Comes in assorted thicknesses and finishes. I used the medium matt finish. They all dry clear. You can also

Google Sheets (https://www.google.co.uk/sheets/about/) is fairly good for that. Overleaf (https://www.overleaf.com/) is good too, though you define tables in LaTeX rather than a spreadsheet per se.

Men I'll take on this project, to develop a multi-user reference parts list. I would like to upload an Excel file, with the relevant data - my recommendations to start with (all referred parts have

I understand that the Tek2235 wants a 154-0861-00 CRT, which seems to be made of Unobtanium. Are there any known substitutions? Are there any _available_ known Substitutions? Thanks in advance! 73

I removed some circuit boards to get access to the switch board. I then took a syringe with a curved tip and sucked a small amount of deoxit inside the syringe. I stuck the tip of the syringe into the

Fabio mentioned some difficulties in aligning the text onto the button faces. How about maybe adding guidelines or some kind of extra markings around the texts to help cut out the physical transfer

Other groups/forums that are good and very active are; Greenkeys http://www.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/greenkeys to do with old teletypes, but with the occasional foray into cryptographs. UK vintage

Jeff, Fabio already reported how to do the mirror imaging: "6. Printed the file to PDF, using CutePDF writer and used the "Mirrored Output" option from the Advanced -> PostScript options." I am also

I too was going to say that Dennis' request that the "Elders" keep topics relevant is not really asking them to "moderate" so much as to quietly guide and end the thread.? It depends on your