开云体育

Fabio mentioned some difficulties in aligning the text onto the button faces. How about maybe adding guidelines or some kind of extra markings around the texts to help cut out the physical transfer

Other groups/forums that are good and very active are; Greenkeys http://www.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/greenkeys to do with old teletypes, but with the occasional foray into cryptographs. UK vintage

Jeff, Fabio already reported how to do the mirror imaging: "6. Printed the file to PDF, using CutePDF writer and used the "Mirrored Output" option from the Advanced -> PostScript options." I am also

I too was going to say that Dennis' request that the "Elders" keep topics relevant is not really asking them to "moderate" so much as to quietly guide and end the thread.? It depends on your

I get that, but the lamp is still a consumable that will wear out again. How much extra work would a LED specifically be? (I own a 453 fwiw)

Fabio; Is it necessary after doing the transfer to apply some coating to protect the transferred lettering? Or is the transfer of sufficient durability to not need that? Joe

How do you get the printer to print backwards ? (or is that in the font ?)

Hi JJ, On the video, it really seemed easy and the result awesome. I have some trouble to identify what was that white glue he applied. I don't know if it's something that is common use to people who

On Tue, 19 Jun 2018 06:37:06 -0700, you wrote: >Hi Dennis, > >Thanks for the heads up. >I didn't use any protection - YET - but I was planning to spray it on with protective varnish... of the kind

Those plastic impellers can be difficult because they get brittle with age.? Even if you glue them, the seem might be strong but the adjacent material is still brittle.? Further, the collet is made

Michael, That sounds like a great idea. Is it reasonable to assume that a given part, like a 47uF 35V electrolytic, would have a single modern replacement recommendation? Or would it perhaps be

Success! Harvey White and machineguy59 - thank you so much for your prompt and insightful replies. It was a transistor Q1062 that went bad (Base to Emitter open circuit failure) as R1071 was getting

Hi Dennis, Thanks for the heads up. I didn't use any protection - YET - but I was planning to spray it on with protective varnish... of the kind that designers use to protect pencil drawn sketches.

Probably because the lamps are cheap, easily available, and a lot less work. Dale H. Cook, GR/HP/Tek Collector, Roanoke/Lynchburg, VA http://plymouthcolony.net/starcity/radios/index.html

I agree with Ed's diagnosis. The push button switches seem to be particularly vulnerable, and are a bear to get to in order to squirt something like Deoxit into. I took all the four main boards out,

Okay looks like you're right. I guess some pins float that shouldn't when the switch doesn't make contact, causing odd behavior.

T’would be an easy proposition... if I need to replace one in my 453, that’s what I will do. Phil, N6OMM

I should say that I don't see the same behavior on the gates of Q531A/B, Q631A/B... I just see the switches being a bit flakey. I only see the exponential convergence on the source pins of these JFETs

You have likely already found the problem - it's poor contact in the switches. Try working them through all their states a lot (may take up to about a hundred times) and see if it settles down. Also

Hey all, I'm trying to restore a 576 curve tracer. When I turn it on, the trace will go off screen... usually I'm able to move the trace back on screen using the position dials. However, when pressing