开云体育

Your idea is correct, the large belt driven compressors are the best and
places like Harbor Freight has them brand new for a reasonable price.
Don't forget the water filtration and drain the water from the tank. You
could make a "self draining" or "automatic" condensation purge with an
Arduino or ESP32/ESP8266 and few more parts to open valve.
But a reminder once a month should give you time to check the system and
drain the water from the tank.


On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 10:24 AM David Kuhn <Daveyk021@...> wrote:

" Because they don't have a "quiet" air compressor.? "

That's the biggest problem.? In the garage, I built a compressor dog

house

with six inch walls with insulation on all side.? Even the access door is

6" thick with insulation.? It worked great, but the air compressor got

used hard.? Well know the saying "out of sight, out of mind"?? That's the
problem.? It never got maintenance.? Now, I just let it be noisy in the
garage as needed.? I don't use it that much, so I just go out and turn it
on as-needed rather than let it be automatic.? I would like to have a

huge

tall tank that hold a lot of air; but they can be expensive.? I need to

go

to some auctions and find a six foot tall belt driven compressor that can
run only every so often and let it on automatic.


On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 9:59 PM Harvey White <madyn@...>
wrote:

On Wed, 1 May 2019 14:53:04 +0200, you wrote:

I hear conflicting reports on what one should do. What's your take?
Are there different types where you should or shouldn't?

Compressed air isn't.? There's not enough room in the an.

Druckluft 67 (aka Dust Off 67) from Kontakt / CRC says not to shake
the can "or otherwise the fluid might come out", but is it always the
case with all types? What is that fluid for, anyways?

The fluid evaporates, produces gas, and that's what your "compressed
air" happens to be.

I read reviews of some cheaper compressed air products on amazon and
they complained about the quality. What can go wrong with compressed
air?

Liquid for one, which you don't want, and then again, what's the
liquid that's evaporating to give you this "air"?

Two things people brought up were one brand produced very weak
pressure, and another produced flammable rather than inert gas.

Depends on what's evaporating.? Butane would work, so would freon, so
would a lot of other things, includin propane.

Druckluft 67 touts as being oil free. Are there other things that
might go wrong?

er..... what's in that liquid?

Why would someone use canned compressed air rather than an air

compressor?

Because they don't have an air compressor.? Because they don't know
the difference.? Because they don't have a "quiet" air compressor.
Because they don't have the driers and particle filters to clean up
the output air from the compressor (which may or may not have oil in
it from the air pump).

Harvey

Thanks.

" Your idea is correct, the large belt driven compressors are the best and
places like Harbor Freight has them brand new for a reasonable price. "

Yea, I have been tempted a few times to use the 25% off coupon to get one,
but I usually do not hear good things about there electrical tools.

There is an elderly lady down the block that we are friends with. Her
husband (dead 20+ years now) has one of those six foot belt driver
compressors near their garage door; I think it is hard wired. She might
use it once a year. When I turned it on, it was amazingly not deafening.
It looks like it was built very well. I can't get her to give it or sell
it to me - lol. I kind of pine for it. It is very old, but still works
great and I am sure built better than anything harbor freight has. Anyway,
I'm not sure I should offer much because of its age and I might be better
off with a new one. They probably all need the pressure/electric switch
changed every few years and I am not sure where to get that part. My
original one in the dog house, probably 29 years old now and still looking
nice, needs that pressure switch. I could never find the MFG parts list
and you wouldn't get one from them after all these years. I haven't found
generic ones either. Maybe there is generic kits to re-plumb old air
compressors? I'll have to look.

Sorry, this is off topic, but I feel every electronics repair lab should
have compress air. Heck where I worked, before GE moved everything, and
our jobs overseas, I used a nice high pressure air line. I could wash
boards off with Simple green and then ISO and blow dry them do dry that I
could power them up right away without letting them dry overnight. The air
sound drove other around me nuts, but you do what you have to do. At one
point, maintenance was going to change my compressed air plumbing to the
nitrogen line (we had a huge nitrogen tank outside) for the drying of
boards, then our closing was announce and no one gave a shite about
anything for the next year and a half 8-(. So nitrogen would be better for
drying and dusting board than compressed air, but I would not want to foot
that bill.

Dave

Dave

On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 11:48 AM Tony Fleming <czecht@...> wrote:

Your idea is correct, the large belt driven compressors are the best and
places like Harbor Freight has them brand new for a reasonable price.
Don't forget the water filtration and drain the water from the tank. You
could make a "self draining" or "automatic" condensation purge with an
Arduino or ESP32/ESP8266 and few more parts to open valve.
But a reminder once a month should give you time to check the system and
drain the water from the tank.


On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 10:24 AM David Kuhn <Daveyk021@...> wrote:

" Because they don't have a "quiet" air compressor. "

That's the biggest problem. In the garage, I built a compressor dog

house

with six inch walls with insulation on all side. Even the access door

is

6" thick with insulation. It worked great, but the air compressor got

used hard. Well know the saying "out of sight, out of mind"? That's

the

problem. It never got maintenance. Now, I just let it be noisy in the
garage as needed. I don't use it that much, so I just go out and turn

it

on as-needed rather than let it be automatic. I would like to have a

huge

tall tank that hold a lot of air; but they can be expensive. I need to

go

to some auctions and find a six foot tall belt driven compressor that

can

run only every so often and let it on automatic.


On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 9:59 PM Harvey White <madyn@...>
wrote:

On Wed, 1 May 2019 14:53:04 +0200, you wrote:

I hear conflicting reports on what one should do. What's your take?
Are there different types where you should or shouldn't?

Compressed air isn't. There's not enough room in the an.

Druckluft 67 (aka Dust Off 67) from Kontakt / CRC says not to shake
the can "or otherwise the fluid might come out", but is it always

the

case with all types? What is that fluid for, anyways?

The fluid evaporates, produces gas, and that's what your "compressed
air" happens to be.

I read reviews of some cheaper compressed air products on amazon and
they complained about the quality. What can go wrong with compressed
air?

Liquid for one, which you don't want, and then again, what's the
liquid that's evaporating to give you this "air"?

Two things people brought up were one brand produced very weak
pressure, and another produced flammable rather than inert gas.

Depends on what's evaporating. Butane would work, so would freon, so
would a lot of other things, includin propane.

Druckluft 67 touts as being oil free. Are there other things that
might go wrong?

er..... what's in that liquid?

Why would someone use canned compressed air rather than an air

compressor?

Because they don't have an air compressor. Because they don't know
the difference. Because they don't have a "quiet" air compressor.
Because they don't have the driers and particle filters to clean up
the output air from the compressor (which may or may not have oil in
it from the air pump).

Harvey

Thanks.

A small positive contribution: The SG504 does indeed not level without a

On Tue, 30 Apr 2019 20:44:20 -0400, you wrote:

After accidentally leaving my 1502 on overnight I came back to find
it dead. I eventually traced it down to a HV problem.

This circuit is so simple it's ludicrous but I'm hampered by having
lost my HV probe. In any event, the output across the HV transformer
is a square wave of about 50V; it's supposed to be 500V. If I
disconnect C4328 (connected directly to the transformer), I see the
expected 500V across the transformer. The HV diodes appear to be OK,
but something is loading it down. I've disconnected the CRT and
controls with no change, so it has to be on the board.

I repaired my 1502's high voltage section. I saw capacitors that had
cracked, and the diodes weren't all that happy either. IIRC,
microwave oven diodes work. I just tested and replaced all the bad
capacitors.

I don't see any unusually low ohm readings either.

Any ideas for tracking down the failed component or should I just
shotgun the multiplier and replace everything? One cap is 0.033
at 600V and the other 3 are 0.027 at 1200V.

It's been noted that sometimes HV capacitors are OK at lower voltages
and leaky at higher ones.

Your idea is correct, the large belt driven compressors are the best and
places like Harbor Freight has them brand new for a reasonable price.
Don't forget the water filtration and drain the water from the tank. You
could make a "self draining" or "automatic" condensation purge with an
Arduino or ESP32/ESP8266 and few more parts to open valve.
But a reminder once a month should give you time to check the system and
drain the water from the tank.


On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 10:24 AM David Kuhn <Daveyk021@...> wrote:

" Because they don't have a "quiet" air compressor. "

That's the biggest problem. In the garage, I built a compressor dog

house

with six inch walls with insulation on all side. Even the access door is

6" thick with insulation. It worked great, but the air compressor got

used hard. Well know the saying "out of sight, out of mind"? That's the
problem. It never got maintenance. Now, I just let it be noisy in the
garage as needed. I don't use it that much, so I just go out and turn it
on as-needed rather than let it be automatic. I would like to have a

huge

tall tank that hold a lot of air; but they can be expensive. I need to

go

to some auctions and find a six foot tall belt driven compressor that can
run only every so often and let it on automatic.


On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 9:59 PM Harvey White <madyn@...>
wrote:

On Wed, 1 May 2019 14:53:04 +0200, you wrote:

I hear conflicting reports on what one should do. What's your take?
Are there different types where you should or shouldn't?

Compressed air isn't. There's not enough room in the an.

Druckluft 67 (aka Dust Off 67) from Kontakt / CRC says not to shake
the can "or otherwise the fluid might come out", but is it always the
case with all types? What is that fluid for, anyways?

The fluid evaporates, produces gas, and that's what your "compressed
air" happens to be.

I read reviews of some cheaper compressed air products on amazon and
they complained about the quality. What can go wrong with compressed
air?

Liquid for one, which you don't want, and then again, what's the
liquid that's evaporating to give you this "air"?

Two things people brought up were one brand produced very weak
pressure, and another produced flammable rather than inert gas.

Depends on what's evaporating. Butane would work, so would freon, so
would a lot of other things, includin propane.

Druckluft 67 touts as being oil free. Are there other things that
might go wrong?

er..... what's in that liquid?

Why would someone use canned compressed air rather than an air

compressor?

Because they don't have an air compressor. Because they don't know
the difference. Because they don't have a "quiet" air compressor.
Because they don't have the driers and particle filters to clean up
the output air from the compressor (which may or may not have oil in
it from the air pump).

Harvey

Thanks.

The Tektronix service manuals for these older ‘scopes contain lists of the required (or at least recommended) test equipment needed to calibrate the ‘scope in the service section of the manual.

In most cases, I have found that purchasing and maintaining calibration on them is cost prohibitive unless one is going to calibrate test equipment as a business.

DaveD

Sent from a small flat thingy

On May 2, 2019, at 11:17, David Berlind <david@...> wrote:

this is such a timely thread because of my current need to get my four 7000
scopes calibrated and the fact that I managed to acquire the input
standardizer as the first part of my quest. Upon reading all this
feedback, it seems like the next step would be to try lay my hands on the
following at decent prices.

TM502A (2 slot TM500 series mainframe)
TG501
PG506
SG504 (higher frequencies and according to TekWiki, this appears to require
another part: a leveling head)
SG503 (for lower frequencies; 250kHz to 250MHz according to tekwiki)

I noted from the comments that there's also so potential dependency on
existing 7000 series plug-ins. Here's what I'm working with:

1 7603
1 7603/R
1 7633
1 OS245(P)/U (the ruggedized version of the 7603)

For plug-ins, I have one or more of the following
7A18
7A18A
7B53A
AM6565/U (to go with the OS245)


My questions are the following:
1. if I have a signal generator (actually, I have several), a sweep
generator (1), and a brand new (assumed to be accurately calibrated) Fluke
87V DMM, are there workarounds to the above list to try while I wait to
acquire that shopping list (one must patient)?
2. Speaking to some responses regarding my purchase of the input
standardizer and whether it is calibrated itself (let alone functioning),
is there someone on this list that might be able to calibrate it for me?

Lastly, for anybody else that's shopping for 7000 series signal
standardizer, I noticed that another one is for sale on eBay:



Greatly appreciate any input, thoughts, etc. I don't intend to keep all
these scopes (I don't need so many for what I do.. and I have others
including a 547 in beautiful condition). My intention is to get them all
running and calibrated and then find new owners. One I will give away since
one was given to me by a member of this group. The others I will look to
recover my costs.

This has been a journey for me and this group has been amazing. I remember
learning that I need an oscilloscope to fix old amps and radios. I never
thought I'd end up with 7 oscilloscopes and a signal tracer (577) along the
way.

David

On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 10:27 AM Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:

On Thu, 02 May 2019 03:07:37 -0700, you wrote:

On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 04:34 AM, Harvey White wrote:


DC voltage standard (PG506 will work, set it on DC for the DMM). works
for the scope too.

- Not all PG506 modules can be set to DC. This has been discussed in this

group a while ago.

- The accuracy of the (DC) voltage of a PG506 (about 0.25 % if correctly

calibrated) is not good enough to adjust any DMM worth its salt. OK for
getting an impression.

I think the ones I have can be, but I've got other voltage
calibrators. Scope measurements are good to about 1% because of the
visual nature of the readout.

Impressions can be good, though...

Nobody as asked about DMM calibration yet...

Harvey

Raymond

On May 2, 2019, at 11:17, David Berlind <david@...> wrote:

this is such a timely thread because of my current need to get my four 7000
scopes calibrated and the fact that I managed to acquire the input
standardizer as the first part of my quest. Upon reading all this
feedback, it seems like the next step would be to try lay my hands on the
following at decent prices.

TM502A (2 slot TM500 series mainframe)
TG501
PG506
SG504 (higher frequencies and according to TekWiki, this appears to require
another part: a leveling head)
SG503 (for lower frequencies; 250kHz to 250MHz according to tekwiki)

I noted from the comments that there's also so potential dependency on
existing 7000 series plug-ins. Here's what I'm working with:

1 7603
1 7603/R
1 7633
1 OS245(P)/U (the ruggedized version of the 7603)

For plug-ins, I have one or more of the following
7A18
7A18A
7B53A
AM6565/U (to go with the OS245)


My questions are the following:
1. if I have a signal generator (actually, I have several), a sweep
generator (1), and a brand new (assumed to be accurately calibrated) Fluke
87V DMM, are there workarounds to the above list to try while I wait to
acquire that shopping list (one must patient)?
2. Speaking to some responses regarding my purchase of the input
standardizer and whether it is calibrated itself (let alone functioning),
is there someone on this list that might be able to calibrate it for me?

Lastly, for anybody else that's shopping for 7000 series signal
standardizer, I noticed that another one is for sale on eBay:



Greatly appreciate any input, thoughts, etc. I don't intend to keep all
these scopes (I don't need so many for what I do.. and I have others
including a 547 in beautiful condition). My intention is to get them all
running and calibrated and then find new owners. One I will give away since
one was given to me by a member of this group. The others I will look to
recover my costs.

This has been a journey for me and this group has been amazing. I remember
learning that I need an oscilloscope to fix old amps and radios. I never
thought I'd end up with 7 oscilloscopes and a signal tracer (577) along the
way.

David

On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 10:27 AM Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:

On Thu, 02 May 2019 03:07:37 -0700, you wrote:

On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 04:34 AM, Harvey White wrote:


DC voltage standard (PG506 will work, set it on DC for the DMM). works
for the scope too.

- Not all PG506 modules can be set to DC. This has been discussed in this

group a while ago.

- The accuracy of the (DC) voltage of a PG506 (about 0.25 % if correctly

calibrated) is not good enough to adjust any DMM worth its salt. OK for
getting an impression.

I think the ones I have can be, but I've got other voltage
calibrators. Scope measurements are good to about 1% because of the
visual nature of the readout.

Impressions can be good, though...

Nobody as asked about DMM calibration yet...

Harvey

Raymond

this is such a timely thread because of my current need to get my four 7000
scopes calibrated and the fact that I managed to acquire the input
standardizer as the first part of my quest. Upon reading all this
feedback, it seems like the next step would be to try lay my hands on the
following at decent prices.

TM502A (2 slot TM500 series mainframe)
TG501
PG506
SG504 (higher frequencies and according to TekWiki, this appears to require
another part: a leveling head)
SG503 (for lower frequencies; 250kHz to 250MHz according to tekwiki)

I noted from the comments that there's also so potential dependency on
existing 7000 series plug-ins. Here's what I'm working with:

1 7603
1 7603/R
1 7633
1 OS245(P)/U (the ruggedized version of the 7603)

For plug-ins, I have one or more of the following
7A18
7A18A
7B53A
AM6565/U (to go with the OS245)


My questions are the following:
1. if I have a signal generator (actually, I have several), a sweep
generator (1), and a brand new (assumed to be accurately calibrated) Fluke
87V DMM, are there workarounds to the above list to try while I wait to
acquire that shopping list (one must patient)?
2. Speaking to some responses regarding my purchase of the input
standardizer and whether it is calibrated itself (let alone functioning),
is there someone on this list that might be able to calibrate it for me?

Lastly, for anybody else that's shopping for 7000 series signal
standardizer, I noticed that another one is for sale on eBay:



Greatly appreciate any input, thoughts, etc. I don't intend to keep all
these scopes (I don't need so many for what I do.. and I have others
including a 547 in beautiful condition). My intention is to get them all
running and calibrated and then find new owners. One I will give away since
one was given to me by a member of this group. The others I will look to
recover my costs.

This has been a journey for me and this group has been amazing. I remember
learning that I need an oscilloscope to fix old amps and radios. I never
thought I'd end up with 7 oscilloscopes and a signal tracer (577) along the
way.

David


On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 10:27 AM Harvey White <madyn@...>
wrote:

On Thu, 02 May 2019 03:07:37 -0700, you wrote:

On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 04:34 AM, Harvey White wrote:

DC voltage standard (PG506 will work, set it on DC for the DMM). works
for the scope too.

- Not all PG506 modules can be set to DC. This has been discussed in

this

group a while ago.

- The accuracy of the (DC) voltage of a PG506 (about 0.25 % if correctly

calibrated) is not good enough to adjust any DMM worth its salt. OK for
getting an impression.

I think the ones I have can be, but I've got other voltage
calibrators. Scope measurements are good to about 1% because of the
visual nature of the readout.

Impressions can be good, though...

Nobody as asked about DMM calibration yet...

Harvey

Raymond

" Because they don't have a "quiet" air compressor. "

That's the biggest problem. In the garage, I built a compressor dog house
with six inch walls with insulation on all side. Even the access door is

6" thick with insulation. It worked great, but the air compressor got

used hard. Well know the saying "out of sight, out of mind"? That's the
problem. It never got maintenance. Now, I just let it be noisy in the
garage as needed. I don't use it that much, so I just go out and turn it
on as-needed rather than let it be automatic. I would like to have a huge
tall tank that hold a lot of air; but they can be expensive. I need to go
to some auctions and find a six foot tall belt driven compressor that can
run only every so often and let it on automatic.


On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 9:59 PM Harvey White <madyn@...>
wrote:

On Wed, 1 May 2019 14:53:04 +0200, you wrote:

I hear conflicting reports on what one should do. What's your take?
Are there different types where you should or shouldn't?

Compressed air isn't. There's not enough room in the an.

Druckluft 67 (aka Dust Off 67) from Kontakt / CRC says not to shake
the can "or otherwise the fluid might come out", but is it always the
case with all types? What is that fluid for, anyways?

The fluid evaporates, produces gas, and that's what your "compressed
air" happens to be.

I read reviews of some cheaper compressed air products on amazon and
they complained about the quality. What can go wrong with compressed
air?

Liquid for one, which you don't want, and then again, what's the
liquid that's evaporating to give you this "air"?

Two things people brought up were one brand produced very weak
pressure, and another produced flammable rather than inert gas.

Depends on what's evaporating. Butane would work, so would freon, so
would a lot of other things, includin propane.

Druckluft 67 touts as being oil free. Are there other things that
might go wrong?

er..... what's in that liquid?

Why would someone use canned compressed air rather than an air

compressor?

Because they don't have an air compressor. Because they don't know
the difference. Because they don't have a "quiet" air compressor.
Because they don't have the driers and particle filters to clean up
the output air from the compressor (which may or may not have oil in
it from the air pump).

Harvey

Thanks.

On Thu, 02 May 2019 03:07:37 -0700, you wrote:

On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 04:34 AM, Harvey White wrote:

DC voltage standard (PG506 will work, set it on DC for the DMM). works
for the scope too.

- Not all PG506 modules can be set to DC. This has been discussed in this

group a while ago.

- The accuracy of the (DC) voltage of a PG506 (about 0.25 % if correctly

calibrated) is not good enough to adjust any DMM worth its salt. OK for
getting an impression.

I think the ones I have can be, but I've got other voltage
calibrators. Scope measurements are good to about 1% because of the
visual nature of the readout.

Impressions can be good, though...

Nobody as asked about DMM calibration yet...

Harvey

Raymond

On Wed, 1 May 2019 21:02:32 -0500, you wrote:

Great information, and thank you for that.
The option 22 are some probes - but I do not know what probes they were.
If you know, or anyone else, let me know please.
Do you have, or do you know where I can get the software for the

P6407/GPIB

Word Recog?
I also would like to know how to use it - I can't find much on the

Internet

about it.
But someone is sending me the P6407, it should be here by end of next

week.

There's a digital trigger option with a word recognizer, that allows
you to trigger on a digital pattern. That's what the P6407 is used
for. The GPIB option would simply allow you to set that pattern, if
at all, and whatever trigger qualities you need.

Attach the leads to digital signals, set the pattern you want for a
trigger, and the scope should trigger on that one. Never really used
it on my 2430A, but got the trigger generator anyway. Turns out to be
more useful to have a logic analyzer for what I was doing, and I do.

This was a foray into the logic analyzer domain of products to allow
the scope different characteristics.

You use this for digital only and a logic analyzer is better. You use
a digital trigger to look at an analog waveform, and you need either
this scope or we need a logic analyzer with a scope plugin (or
triggering of the scope from the LA.

Harvey

You have a great day!
Tony

On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 6:27 PM Ken Winterling <wa2lbi@...> wrote:

Tony,

FYI, Tektronix produced a number of 2465 model "packages" that included
certain options. I have 2465DVS and it has a DMM.

*Model Includes options*
2465 CTS 9, 10, 22
2465 DMS 1, 9, 10, 22
2465 DVS 1, 5, 9, 10, 22
2465A CT 9, 10, 22
2465A DM 1, 9, 10, 22
2465A DV 1, 5, 9, 10, 22
2465B CT 9, 10, 22
2465B DM 1, 9, 10, 22
2465B DV 1, 5, 9, 10, 22



Ken
WA2LBI





On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 7:03 PM Tony Fleming <czecht@...> wrote:

My scope is 2465 DMS and it has DMM also - not an add-on.
Someone said that mine is 2465 CTS (but I think all CRT scopes can be
called that).
As per catalog Tektronix put out, I could not find my model either!
But there are many catalogs that are incomplete, I think.
If your scope works, the manual for 2465B should be the same.
Also, look at the back of your scope and find a silver tape that has
options printed on it with small holes punched out, if you have that
option.
That is how mine has options 1, 9, 10 and GPIB port.
See if on the back is any other "model number".

I'm looking for the software that would communicate with my computer -

does

anyone have the software and or manual for it?
Also, I have a port for P6407 - I also need as much help with that and
software that, I assume, it will need.

Tony

On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 5:45 PM Dave Daniel <kc0wjn@...> wrote:

All,

I have a Trektronix 2465B that has the DMM option physically

present.

Looking at the TekWki web page for the 2465B, I see photos that show
this 'scope branded as "2465BVD". My 'scope is branded as "2465B".

The DVM does not appear to have been an add-on.

Can anyone explain how a 2465B with the DMM option would not be

branded

as a 2465BDV?

Thanks

DaveD

'Special Edition' is what Tek designated the 2465 series you ask about. It
was a 'Top of Line' designation with fully or nearly fully optioned
packages offered at a discount and consisted of three Special Edition
models (slightly ReDesignated when suffixed as A/B). The carring handles
display 'Special Edition' on the label.

2465 CTS options - GPIB, CTT/WR (counter/timer with word recognizer).
2465 DMS options - GPIB, CTT/WR + DMM.
2465 DVM options - GPIB, CTT/WR, DMM + TV.

2465A CT options - GPIB, CTT/WR.
2465A DM options - GPIB, CTT/WR + DMM.
2465A DV options - GPIB, CTT/WR, DMM + TV.

2465B CT options - GPIB, CTT/WR.
2465B DM options - GPIB, CTT/WR + DMM.
2465B DV options - GPIB, CTT/WR, DMM + TV.

Regarding probes, I think all 2465 scopes (Special Edition or not) were
supplied with 4 probes, Unless ordered with option 22 which DELETED 2
probes.

options designations:
GPIB 10
CTT/WR 9
DMM 1
TV 5

On Wed, 1 May 2019 22:00:36 -0500, you wrote:

Thanks for a fast reply Harvey!
I'm not a professional, just a hobbyist and I love to fix anything I get

my

hands on.

Well, I've been in electronics for a while, and even earned money
doing it, so I guess I qualify as a professional of sorts.

When I see how people dump everything, before thinking to fix it, it makes
me sick how wasteful we become.

Some of this stuff is not possible to repair without tools and parts
not available to most...

If I could fix stuff for free I would, that is how much I love to give
anything a second, third... chance to do its work.
Helping handicapped and old/poor people brings me more joy, when I see
their eyes sparkling again!
So not for now I don't need a perfect scope, but a working one that gets

me

there. My plans are to teach anyone some basic electronics and encourage
them to have a hobby.....

A good Tektronix scope will be a joy, *if* they can appreciate it.

I once brought a 7000 series scope into a classrom with a 7CT1N (curve
tracer) plugin so I could demonstrate transistor curves.

One of the students looked at it and said "old tech".

He's right, but his view is a trifle narrow....

For now the scope does something, that is much more than when I received
it, so now I like to play and learn, since my modern scope is nothing like
2465 DMS.

likely not.

But I always wanted Tek scope so I have one and it needs a checkup and or

a

way to make it work well.

Well, the basic checks are useful for functionality. IIRC, there are
some functional checks in the service manual.

You can check the sweep at least by looking at the relative numbers of
cycles going from one range to another. You won't get exact, but
you'll see if 20 us/div is about right.

Ditto for the vertical section.

I found on eBay *Tektronix PG506 - * but they are mostly a PLUG-IN style.
Can I run it without a housing?

No.

It's made to go into a TM500 style housing. It's a power supply unit
with individual (and somewhat odd) voltages available to each
plugin...

Generally comes in 1,3, 4, and 6 module sizes. The 5 unit is made to
be portable. There may be a 2 unit size, but I'm not sure.

TM 501, TM503, TM504, TM515 (portable), and TM506. The TM5000 series
is similar, somewhat larger, with the units being microprocessor based
and remote controllable.

Most of the TM500 units fit into the TM5000 frame, but no TM5000 unit
will fit into a TM500 frame.

When I look over the pictures for *Tektronix PG506 *it seems to me that

the

power supply is in the base unit..... but I don't know anything about it.

You're right, that's where it is intended to go. There are some older
(perhaps tube) models of test generator, though.

Starting with say, a 20 Mhz oscillator, divide by 10, then 2 to get a
1 us period waveform. Divide by 5 then 2 to get a 2 Mhz waveform (500
ns period), divide by 2 to get a 100 ns period waveform, etc. With
the right frequencies and TTL divider chips, you can get yourself a
timing generator.

The 1-2-5 for voltage is harder, though.

I have skills and even 3D printer, so I can make something to cover the
back end, where I can make a power supply connect....

First just find the TM500 style plugin unit. Check out the TM500
series of plugins (DC 5xx, DM 5xx, PG5xx, etc. They may be a good
addition to your lab, within reason. They're not wonderful, but they
are decently made.

I'll keep your email and start looking for a complete *Tektronix PG506,

*it

can be a great addition to my tools here.

Read the description first, and don't spend tons of money on it.

What you'd be getting is the amplitude part of a calibration
generator, that puts out voltages in the 1-2-5 sequence that Tektronix
uses. It's very convenient and was intended to help calibrate their
vertical plugins and vertical channels.

The more scopes you have, the more you may need this, but think about
it first. There's a lot you can do to work around not having one.

Harvey, you are great help and the rest of the guys here are also very
helpful, I'm glad to belong to Tektronix group!

It's a good group.

You make me smile more and more!

Keep asking questions. There's no perfect setup, and a number of
workarounds.

Harvey

Tony


On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 9:34 PM Harvey White <madyn@...>

wrote:

On Wed, 1 May 2019 21:10:39 -0500, you wrote:

Since I'm new to Tektronix 2465 DMS with DMM, what "signal

standardizer"

model number would I need?

DC voltage standard (PG506 will work, set it on DC for the DMM). works
for the scope too.

Does anyone have one and what should I look for in a used unit?

good cosmetics, good reports on the seller, and an idea of what you'd
have to replace if things were bad.

Are they mostly good or is there some parts that make them less

reliable?

Ebay and local and you takes your chances....

Where do you buy your parts and who is reliable to buy from for

Tektronix?

Major distributors (Mouser, Digikey, Arrow, etc) for standard parts.

Sphere and Qservice are most reliable, buying another with a different
problem is often quite useful.

I do have Aktakom Function Signal Generator, 50MHz - 2 channels. Is

that

good enough?

For waveforms, maybe. (linearity).

How do you measure the voltages, and the frequencies (vertical and
horizontal calibration)?

Function generator may not be enough, depending on how serious you
want to get.

Harvey

Thank you guys, you have helped me a lot!
Tony

On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 9:03 PM Harvey White <madyn@...>

wrote:

On Wed, 1 May 2019 18:13:05 -0400, you wrote:

With four 7000 series scopes in my lab, I've been patiently waiting

for

a 067-0587-00,01, or 02 signal standardizer for about a year now

and I

finally grabbed one today. They've been going for pretty big money

(worth

more than the scope itself) but I managed to snag it for $77 (with
shipping) off of eBay.

My one concern of course is that it works and doesn't need some

form of

rehabilitation.

I will soon find out.

Most of mine worked. The digital circuitry, as I remember it, is
relatively simple. Just checked the listing. Looks clean from here.

Good luck.

Harvey

On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 11:13 AM Harvey White <

madyn@...>

wrote:

On Tue, 30 Apr 2019 12:47:26 -0700, you wrote:

Hi All,

I need one, good working scope to get started on repairing the

other 30

or so scopes around here. I have a multitude of Tek 7000 frames

to

choose

from but I think the 7904 (or 7904A) is a good place to start.

Once

that's

working + cal'ed I can at least troubleshoot and maybe repair the

others.

Where can I get one professionally calibrated in the greater

Detroit

area? I can drive a fair distance, but I'm scared to ship. I've

had

two

7934's, a 7834, and a 7704A crushed in separate shipping mishaps.

Can't help you there, I'm in the southeast. However...

Also...which plug ins are recommended to cal for building my

golden

scope? I have a collection...

The typical plugins for a 7904 (and that's a good choice, IMHO)

are

at

least one if not two 7A26, and a 7B92A (which I happen to like).

If

you want the flexibility of two sweep plugins, the 7B80 and 7B85

will

do. If you have a 7103/4 and a 7B10 and 7B15, you could use them

but

the sweep is not calibrated at the highest frequencies, but those
could be moved over to the 7103/4 when needed.

For things you'd want:

067-0587-01 signal standardizer. The 01 is intended for 500 mhz
scopes, the 00 is for lower bandwidth, and the 02 is for the 1GHz
bandwidth scopes. Needed to keep the mainframes all agreeing with
each other as well as provides some nice linearity and gain

signals.

You could use the 00, but it wouldn't allow you to check out the
frequency response to the limit of the scope's bandwidth for

higher

bandwidth scopes.

PG506/TG501 SG503/SG504 TM500 plugins that provide calibration
signals for vertical and timebase checking, as well as frequency
response. Those will do any scope. The signal standardizer is
specifically for 7000 series mainframes.

You could also go with a CG501 (TM500) or a CG5001 (TM5000) module
with the appropriate frame. Note that the CG series may need a
specific head to supply the right signals. Those heads may be
difficult to find.

My favorite (depending) setup in a 7904 is a 7A26 (or 7A24 if I

need

more bandwidth and can tolerate a 50 ohm input plugin), a 7D12

with

an

M2 (sampling) module, a 7D15 counter, and a 7B92A sweep.

Harvey