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Re: New file uploaded to [email protected]
In case it isn't apparent from the information below, I created a small PDF that outlines the procedure I used to replace the electrolytics in my 465B using an auxiliary PC board and snap-in caps. I've shared the pictures in the photo album but this makes it a little more organized.
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Note that I'm going to order another batch of boards as I'm pretty much sold out. Should take about a week before they get here. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ ----- Original Message -----
From: "[email protected] Notification" <[email protected]> |
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New file uploaded to [email protected]
[email protected] Notification
Hello, This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the [email protected] group. File: Replacing Electrolytic Filter Capacitors in a Tektronix 465.pdf Uploaded By: n4buq Description: You can access this file at the URL: Cheers, |
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Re: Pimp my TM5003 ! (swapping fan with a quieter one)
Hi Ke-Fong,
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Our ears respond logarithmically to sound so it is hard to anticipate what 32dB might sound like. In addition humans add an additional factor of perception that is hard to predict. 32dB may be perceived as quiet in an office but not in your home. There is an easy way you can actually quantify the sound level of the fan with a smart phone app I use on my iPhone called "Decibel X". The free version is all you need. There is probably an Android version as well. I have compared Decibel X to my B&K Sound Pressure Meter (the industrt standard) and been surprised at how accurate it is. Dennis Tillman W7PF -----Original Message----- -- Dennis Tillman W7PF TekScopes Moderator |
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Pimp my TM5003 ! (swapping fan with a quieter one)
Hi everyone,
The fan of my TM5003 is a bit loud and it has a "rattling" component into it. This is not as bad as a TM5006, but still quite loud. That would be ok for a professional or industrial setting, but not for my home bench in a basement. Photos are here: /g/TekScopes/album?id=65073 In fact, TM5003 and TM5006 use the same fan model: a 75CFM at 115VAC (Tek part 119-0721-00), see service manuals. However, TM5006 with racking options (option 12), uses a 105CFM instead. So it is quite over-rated for the TM5003 which has only 3 slots, versus the 5 "regular" slots plus 1 high powered compartment of the TM5006. And I guess we can without issue use a 50CFM fan instead, that's still 2/3 of 75. I managed to find an almost exact match (~76CFM at 50Hz and ~67CFM at 60Hz), but with lower noise of course (32db) : The swap was actually quite easy, just unscrew everything, unplug the fan wires. Cut the wires from the old fan, resolder to the new one. Plug back everything, fasten all screws. See photos. The end result is a bit mixed :( It is a bit quieter, in particular, the rattling component of the fan noise is gone. That's a new fan after all! However, I thought that 32db was quieter than that. To give you an idea, the noise is now about the same as a loud desktop PC with all its fans at max speed. I must have read something wrong about how quiet 32db is. Maybe my expectation were too much. Or the replacement fan doesn't meet its 32db specification! Or a mix of all of the above :) The original fan is from "Whisperer" brand. And it is indeed quieter than the TM5006 I've owned It has a May 92 date on it, so my TM5003 is not that old. Probably, the biggest issue, is that the fan is not temperature controlled. So it always runs at max speed, moving tons of air. All in all, there is still some improvement, so I'm happy. And I had fun. If I were to do it again, I'll probably go for a 50CFM from a more "high end" brand (ebm papst?) Best regards, |
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Re: Replacing Electrolytics in a 465/465B
I had a set of those made up but decided not to use them here. One problem is there is one large hole that could be a bit difficult to fill with solder. The other thing I didn't really like is that if the snap-in has to be replaced, then it pretty much requires resoldering to the main board. Since the auxillary board can use longer wires to connect it to the main board, if a cap has to be replaced, then the process only involves soldering to the auxillary board.
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Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ ----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Amaranth" <paul@...> |
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Re: Desoldering Iron vacuum
Chuck Harris
You don't have to take the pace vane pump apart. When the
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vanes start to stick, just put the hose into a bottle of 99% IPA, and snorfle up the alcohol. Put a small hose on the pressure output port so that you can run the waste alcohol into a bottle for the next time. You can reuse the alcohol a dozen times or more. -Chuck Harris Glenn Little wrote: The flux fumes will go right through the fiber disk. |
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Re: Desoldering Iron vacuum
John Griessen
On 07/29/2018 11:57 AM, Kevin Oconnor wrote:
has an internal glass pass-thru tube with an S shape metal insert that congeals the solder and a cotton plug that trap vapors. If removed and cleared periodically, it works flawlessly.That's another data point saying a cold trap is good for long low maintenance. "S shape metal insert that congeals the solder" ==> cold-trap |
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Re: Desoldering Iron vacuum
John Griessen
On 07/29/2018 11:02 AM, Glenn Little wrote:
The fiber filter catches a lot but not all of the vapor. Yes, that is why I was suggesting a section of pipe with TP wads -- it would be a cold trap and a big wide filter, and it wouldn't have to be vacuum perfect since only intermittently pulled down. For an on-demand pump, the old Hakko 470 has a diaphragm pump with rubber reed valves and works pretty well, so it's not on my to do list yet. Strong vacuum from a reservoir and mini-fridge pump sounds better for good solder sucking. then the cold-trap-filter between iron and solenoid valve would be worth it. |
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Re: Desoldering Iron vacuum
My Pace station desolder tool has an internal vac pump and the tool has an internal glass pass-thru tube with an S shape metal insert that congeals the solder and a cotton plug that trap vapors. If removed and cleared periodically, it works flawlessly.
Half dozen different tips makes desoldering a cakewalk usually. Kevin Sent from kjo iPhone |
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Re: Replacing Electrolytics in a 465/465B
Another method that works well is to use individual adapter
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boards for each cap. The boards are roughly the same diameter as the original caps and allow a modern snap cap to be used. You can make the patterns up in any drawing program if you want to etch your own, gerbers are floating around the web and they are available on ebay once in a while. The boards work out to be around $1 or less each if you use one of the cheap board houses. If you use long leads on those, you can thread the cap in without having to disassemble the scope. That method seems to have been independently invented four or five times that I'm aware of (and probably many more). Paul -----Original Message------- Paul Amaranth, GCIH | Rochester MI, USA Aurora Group, Inc. | Security, Systems & Software paul@... | Unix & Windows |
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Re: Desoldering Iron vacuum
The flux fumes will go right through the fiber disk.
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I use a Pace desoldering system with a cotton like plug in the solder capture cylinder and a fiber filter at the end of the tubing just before it goes into the vacuum pump. The fiber filter catches a lot but not all of the vapor. A lot of the flux vapor condenses out onto the inside wall of the tubing connecting the iron to the vacuum pump. The installed vacuum pump here is a rotary vane pump. About once a year, I have to disassemble the pump and clean the carbon vanes and the carbon wear plates to remove the condensed flux vapor. The amount of flux vapor ingested by the system is based on the amount of residual flux left on the solder being removed and the length of time that you are sucking the solder in one session. The hotter the air through the system the more vaporized flux gets to the pump. If you only remove a few parts then let the system rest and the solder capture cylinder cool down there is less flux vapor than if you desolder a large quantity of parts at one time. I do the latter and have recovered over 20 pounds of solder from boards. Glenn On 7/29/2018 10:51 AM, John Griessen wrote:
On 07/29/2018 06:18 AM, Mark Wendt wrote:The Hakko desoldering station I have has two sets of inline filters. One, a kind of springy thingy for stopping the solder bits and pieces from flowing into the pump, and the other a fiber disc for stopping the smokey stuff from getting through.? Perhaps on John's system the fiber disc isn't in place to stop that from happening?It's in place.? It's not enough though. --
----------------------------------------------------------------------- Glenn Little ARRL Technical Specialist QCWA LM 28417 Amateur Callsign: WB4UIV wb4uiv@... AMSAT LM 2178 QTH: Goose Creek, SC USA (EM92xx) USSVI LM NRA LM SBE ARRL TAPR "It is not the class of license that the Amateur holds but the class of the Amateur that holds the license" |
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Re: Looking for Power Cord for 400-series Scope
That's what I ended up doing. If your feet are in good condition you can
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just tuck the plug end between the cord windings and it will stay put. Paul On Thu, Jul 26, 2018 at 11:00:38AM -0400, n4buq wrote:
I've considered cutting an IEC cord (hopefully finding a thinner version since, as you point out, the more common styles are thicker) and just using a common velcro wrap as a "keeper". The clip would be nice but having that ground connection is more important to me. --
Paul Amaranth, GCIH | Rochester MI, USA Aurora Group, Inc. | Security, Systems & Software paul@... | Unix & Windows |
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Re: Desoldering Iron vacuum
I also have a Metcal system, absolutely love it.
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I use a $39 HF compressor for it. I bought it because it was cheaper to buy the whole compressor from HF than individual compoenents to add on to an existing, quieter compressor. I stuffed it into a cabinet in my bench which makes it tolerable. That airless compressor makes a huge racket. I like the refrig. compressor idea. One thing to keep in mind is that many recent compressors are 3 phase and use a solid state inverter. If you're scavenging the compressor, don't forget the inverter as well. I ran across a good deal on Metcal power supplies and scavenged ebay for low priced supplies, but if you like to roll your own a fellow has a design for a Metcal power supply on eevblog. Looked quite nice. Paul On Sun, Jul 29, 2018 at 07:58:50AM -0500, EricJ via Groups.Io wrote:
The Metcal has a cotton or felt cube that filters this also. I'd imagine after years of use it might be wise to either clean or replace the venturi (IIRC it can be popped out and a new one slotted in). Personally I would far rather leave the system be and use it under its original guise rather than try to convert it to a vacuum only setup. Not too worried about the efficiency of the venturi generated vacuum setup as it's not used for very long time periods, just a burst for every joint. I use my "silent" compressor as an air source as well, so it comes in handy for more than just desoldering.? --
Paul Amaranth, GCIH | Rochester MI, USA Aurora Group, Inc. | Security, Systems & Software paul@... | Unix & Windows |
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Re: Desoldering Iron vacuum
On Sun, 29 Jul 2018 09:51:22 -0500, you wrote:
On 07/29/2018 06:18 AM, Mark Wendt wrote:Perhaps an automotive fuel filter?The Hakko desoldering station I have has two sets of inline filters. One, a kind of springy thingy for stopping the solder bitsIt's in place. It's not enough though. Harvey |
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Re: Desoldering Iron vacuum
John Griessen
On 07/29/2018 06:18 AM, Mark Wendt wrote:
The Hakko desoldering station I have has two sets of inline filters. One, a kind of springy thingy for stopping the solder bits and pieces from flowing into the pump, and the other a fiber disc for stopping the smokey stuff from getting through.? Perhaps on John's system the fiber disc isn't in place to stop that from happening?It's in place. It's not enough though. |
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Re: Desoldering Iron vacuum
The Metcal has a cotton or felt cube that filters this also. I'd imagine after years of use it might be wise to either clean or replace the venturi (IIRC it can be popped out and a new one slotted in). Personally I would far rather leave the system be and use it under its original guise rather than try to convert it to a vacuum only setup. Not too worried about the efficiency of the venturi generated vacuum setup as it's not used for very long time periods, just a burst for every joint. I use my "silent" compressor as an air source as well, so it comes in handy for more than just desoldering.?
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I used a couple refrigerant compressors in parallel to get a little more CFM and plumbed them into a portable 5 gallon air tank with a check valve, pressure/unloading switch, regulator and filter/drier. The tank already had a pop-off valve and drain. The compressor is quiet enough to be used in my basement workshop while small children are sleeping in the bedroom directly above without waking them. --Eric Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone. -------- Original message --------From: Mark Wendt <wendt.mark@...> Date: 7/29/18 6:18 AM (GMT-06:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Desoldering Iron vacuum
On 07/28/2018 08:21 PM, Ed Breya via Groups.Io wrote: John wroteThe Hakko desoldering station I have has two sets of inline filters.? One, a kind of springy thingy for stopping the solder bits and pieces from flowing into the pump, and the other a fiber disc for stopping the smokey stuff from getting through.? Perhaps on John's system the fiber disc isn't in place to stop that from happening? Mark |
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Re: 7704A Z-Axis Problem
I said the CRT cable (thinking of where the cable leaves the HV unit) but Harvey said it straight forward: in the vicinity of the HV unit .
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This way you measure the HV transformer switching frequency (which simply is the SMPS switching frequency in the 7704A) *regardless* whether you see a dot pattern or not in the trace. The probe picks up the strong alternating EM field and not (or not in the first place) a small AC ripple on the DC HV. In self-oscillating HV situations this is a handy way to verify that the HV unit is oscillating. You can almost sure exclude now hat there was some strange (external? oscillations?) signal entering the Z-axis amplifier causing a dot pattern since in that case you would at the same time have noticed also a running dot pattern (perhaps of different amplitude than the synchronized pattern). Still it's not sure what causes the dot pattern, a badly decoupled LV somewhere in the Z-axis amplifier, or a badly filtered HV voltage. I would first check the Z-axis output TP41120 for 25 kHz ripple. Just to be sure, are all shields (SMPS box and HV unit) present? I don't remember if removing the HV shield causes intensity ripple in a 7704A. Albert On Sun, Jul 29, 2018 at 12:07 AM, Tomas Alori wrote:
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Tomas Alori
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