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Wasn't this Power Supply known for wrong PCB markings for at least one Cap? Raymond

I'd be inclined to go with what Barry said - it's fairly easy to inadvertently put a two-leaded cap in backwards, which would cause immediate failure on power-up. I'm sure it's happened to all of us

Hi Marc, Sorry to hear about the exploding cap. Any chance it was installed backwards (polarity-wise)? Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ

Hi group, hope you don't mind a newbie question. I took the plunge and decided to recap my 2445A power supply. Ordered Rubycons but the first thing I noticed that the caps are all very much smaller

Hi Chris, Being a CIA or NSA technical intelligence during cold war, would have been a great job for you :) Please keep us updated, especially with photos and documentations. I'm really curious about

It's easy. You take the cartridge heater technology that JBC and Hakko have and put that around a desoldering tip. http://dangerousprototypes.com/forum/download/file.php?id=11012&mode=view (just make

Ok thanks, normal joints are ok at about 300 Deg c but I’ve tried up to 360 for something with a plane but it’s difficult always seems cold Thanks Kevin

How would you modify the existing tools? Harvey One reason why I favor the metcal shaped tips for desoldering where possible. H.

I'd put it above the melting point of the solder, but not too much more. The joint needs to be hot enough to melt the solder, but that's more a matter of heat capacity than temperature. You'd have to

Even if you can adjust the temperature, it's not much use. The danger of lifting pads increases exponentially with temperature and a hot setting can not really make up for a decent thermal path and

I can adjust temp on mine, what should it be at? Thanks Kevin Thanks Kevin

The thermal path (thermal conductivity) from the heater to the tip is just as important with desoldering tools as it is with soldering irons. Sadly even the expensive ones are sometimes woefully

Likely not. If it's a Hakko 808 (which I have) you don't control the temperature, it's preset. You likely don't have enough heat at the point of contact (I'm assuming something other than surface

I did the same thinking that the scope modules were compatible with the TM500 so I bought a lot of 6 plug ins cheap. Only a couple had compatible latch mechanisms, the other 4 were different. Best bet

Selecting the tip temperature is important (where this adjustment is available). Heating the joint all the way through is also critical. Don't be afraid to add solder so that no air gets sucked in.

I have a unit I like, has gun type with solder sucking pump through to the gun. However I seem to struggle when it comes to large planes of copper attached to the pad, am I doing something wrong or?

If the parts don't fall out by their own weight there's something wrong with your desoldering tool. That transformer I mentioned the other day, which I changed 50+ times, I did that with the (very

There are about 400 RS franchise stores nationwide. In the course of my travels for work I get by two of them, one with a modest stock of RS parts and one with a better stock. The RS franchise store

Brass has quite poor heat conductivity, less than a third that of copper, not sure if that would still work. I don't know how well it holds up, since I have never seen a soldering tip made of brass,

I've used my Radio Shack solder sucker (not the bulb but the spring-loaded cylinder version) with pretty good success but I have lifted a couple of pads along the way. I really, really need to get