Hi Guys,
If there is too much for Craig, I would be interested to do a sharing-type
deal. I live in London, UK. Both Craig and I wouldn't have any import
problems, I think.
This is only if Craig can't take everything, he has first shout.
It would be useful to know in a bit more detail what is being offered, here.
I am guessing that these originally came from Tektronix, Guernsey as did my
7623A?
Regards, Colin.
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-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto: [email protected]] On Behalf Of Craig Sawyers Sent: 24 July 2018 11:59 To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Tek bits Hi Andre I'm near Oxford UK and would be very pleased to have these. Regards Craig -----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Andre de guerin via Groups.Io
Sent: 24 July 2018 10:57
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Tek bits
Tiny island near France, called Guernsey.
www.cwgsy.net/private/mandoline "Error 008472. Horrible bug encountered. $Deity knows what happened."
On Monday, 23 July 2018, 09:04:47 GMT+1, Craig Sawyers <c.sawyers@...> wrote:
> Hi, in my shed I have a lot of Tek bits including very hard-to-find
long pots.have a few flybacks but not
sure what state they are in.
Anyone have a use and want to pay postage only?
_A Where on planet earth are you?
Craig
|
Re: 7603 specifically and general refurbishment procedures of older oscilloscopes
Thanks for the suggestions. I'm pretty certain I had all the buttons pressed correctly but I'll recheck that (wouldn't be the first time...!) and I'll try to check the unblanking circuitry.
What about capacitors and other aging components? As needed or change them all?
John
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Hi Folks
I am working on a tek 455 scope. managed get the trace up.
facing a trig problem. doesnt trig in auto/normal/single sweep.
trig view signal ok. suspect trig ic 155-0122-00
is this ic used in any other tek scope so that i can try to cannibalise and get this going
Thanks in advance
regards
Anand
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Hi Andre
I'm near Oxford UK and would be very pleased to have these.
Regards
Craig
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-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Andre de guerin via
Groups.Io
Sent: 24 July 2018 10:57
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Tek bits
Tiny island near France, called Guernsey.
www.cwgsy.net/private/mandoline "Error 008472. Horrible bug encountered. $Deity knows what
happened."
On Monday, 23 July 2018, 09:04:47 GMT+1, Craig Sawyers <c.sawyers@...> wrote:
> Hi, in my shed I have a lot of Tek bits including very hard-to-find long pots.have a few flybacks
but not
sure what state they are in.
Anyone have a use and want to pay postage only?
_A Where on planet earth are you?
Craig
|
Tiny island near France, called Guernsey. www.cwgsy.net/private/mandoline "Error 008472. Horrible bug encountered. $Deity knows what happened." On Monday, 23 July 2018, 09:04:47 GMT+1, Craig Sawyers <c.sawyers@...> wrote: > Hi, in my shed I have a lot of Tek bits including very hard-to-find long pots.have a few flybacks but not
sure what state they are in.
Anyone have a use and want to pay postage only?
_A Where on planet earth are you? Craig
|
Re: 465B - Power Switch Mounting Nut Question
Hey Barry, Ive added two pics from my 465 to your album, the Slit needs to align in to the PCB. /g/TekScopes/album?id=64907hope it helps, regards Rajesh
On Mon, Jul 23, 2018 at 7:28 PM, n4buq <n4buq@...> wrote: A few months ago, I removed the trigger board from my 465B to work on the
power supply caps. I started reassembling it and was left with a small
nylon(?) block with a hex nut holder and a small slot in it. See the album
below for pictures of it.
/g/TekScopes/album?id=64907
If I'm not mistaken, I think this is used behind the nut that holds the
power switch in place and I used it that way (last picture); however, I'm
wondering if I have it turned 180-degrees and the small slot is supposed to
align with the main board.
Is that where that part goes and, if so, is it supposed to align with the
other PC board? I've found one picture on the web that shows it and I
think that's correct but would like to know whether I have that right.
Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ
--
/Rajesh
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Bringing up a Tek 555 dual-beam scope
Just bought a Tek 555 scope with cart and power supply. The scope appeared to have been used until replaced by a couple of 4xx series scopes but just shunted aside when replaced.
I owned and used a 555 40 years ago (warmed my basement quite well) but that scope, a Frankenstein monster created by plugging the CRT unit from one into the power supply from another, not only worked but was calibrated when turned on. As a result I never had to do any work on the unit.
Are there any precautions I should take when powering up this unit? One suggestion is to plug it in and turn it on; if the magic smoke escapes find where it came from and fix it. I do have a Variac and am thinking about building one of the devices which has a large incandescent in series with the DUT.
I do note that the contacts on some of the plug-ins are quite dirty, so I'm going to give the unit a good cleaning before firing it up. I will also check the big electrolytics for signs of failure and possibly for high ESR.
My first scope was a Tek 511; I had to rebuild the HV supply as the diodes had failed. I currently have a 465B which is working well.
Mike Squires
wwww.siralan.org or www.smithgreensound.com
UN*X at home since 1986
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Re: Tektronix DM5010 NiCa 2.4V battery replacement
Hi everyone,
Please keep in mind that this DMM has been available since the very beginning of the eighties, if not late seventies.
It has been designed about ten or less years after man walked on moon.
We should now be able to replace the entire CPU board with a single $2-3 micro-controller.
Best regards,
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Re: Weird serial number on 7L14
Bruce
The list doesn't accept attachments. You will have to upload it to the photos section or host it somewhere and then post a link
Dave
manuals@...
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On 7/24/2018 1:44 AM, Bruce Lane wrote: Fellow Tekkies,
I picked up a 7L14 from an estate sale this last weekend. One of the
things which struck me is the bizarre serial number the thing has -- See
the attached photo.
My best guess is -- Prototype? Something which was never officially in
production? I've never seen the middle symbol (small circle with a
vertical slash through it) used on any Tek instrument I've ever owned.
The other oddity with it is it seems to be missing its red filter
window over the LED display on the input module side (see other photo).
Is this something which can be replaced easily? Perhaps scavenged from,
say, a dead 7A13? They look like they're about the same dimensions.
Thanks much!
--
Dave
Manuals@...
www.ArtekManuals.com
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Re: 465B - Power Switch Mounting Nut Question
Hi Barry, a few weeks ago I had to do the same (horrible) job of replacing the power supply caps in my 475A, same construction. And I also wondered why Tek used such a "distance" holder for the PCB to lock the nut. I mount it exactly as yours in the first picture and it?s sitting sturdy and fine.
So if you mount it as picture 1 and it?s alligned with the other board it is OK.
¸é±ð²Ô¨¦
|
Weird serial number on 7L14
Fellow Tekkies,
I picked up a 7L14 from an estate sale this last weekend. One of the
things which struck me is the bizarre serial number the thing has -- See
the attached photo.
My best guess is -- Prototype? Something which was never officially in
production? I've never seen the middle symbol (small circle with a
vertical slash through it) used on any Tek instrument I've ever owned.
The other oddity with it is it seems to be missing its red filter
window over the LED display on the input module side (see other photo).
Is this something which can be replaced easily? Perhaps scavenged from,
say, a dead 7A13? They look like they're about the same dimensions.
Thanks much!
--
---
Bruce Lane, ARS KC7GR
kyrrin (at) bluefeathertech dot com
"Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati" (Red Green)
|
Re: Tektronix DM5010 NiCa 2.4V battery replacement
Hi Russ:
You have a very valid point concerning corrosion due to batteries leaking.? It is probably a matter of economics that makes the manufacturer
continue to provide super thin casings.? Also, the casing cannot encompass the entire battery, there must be electrical isolation between the
terminals which is a natural source of leaking.? If the manufacturer were to encompass the battery in a leak proof shell the weight, cost and
size would go up dramatically.? It all boils down to the almighty buck!
Reed Dickinson
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On 7/23/2018 9:45 PM, musicamex wrote: Half a century after men walked on the moon, can anyone please explain why
batteries still leak? Or why engineers capable of designing incredible
electronics can't at least protect the circuits from leak caused damage?
I'm sure that I'm not the only one who has lost often irreplaceable
electronics to this pitfall.
Russ
On Monday, July 23, 2018, Kevin Oconnor <kjo@...> wrote:
You can certainly trickle charge some NiMH cells depending on the mfgr.
I¡¯ve used Panasonic cells that have a trickle charge spec. The trick is
that the trickle charge level can¡¯t generate more evolved oxygen than can
be absorbed at operating temps. That is the upper bound on trickle
charging.
There is also a lower bound on trickle charging that is often overlooked.
You have about 15-20 hrs max to recharge to full capacity. The reasoning by
mfgrs is vague but true and likely related to temp rise and gas evolution.
If you trickle charge at a rate less than that which will fully recharge in
15-20 hrs you will never fully restore full capacity.
Kjo
Sent from kjo iPhone
|
Re: Tektronix DM5010 NiCa 2.4V battery replacement
On Mon, 23 Jul 2018 23:45:15 -0500, you wrote: Half a century after men walked on the moon, can anyone please explain why
batteries still leak? Because the batteries don't cost $20,000 each. They're made (for primary cells) as throwaways. For secondary cells, it's the cost. Or why engineers capable of designing incredible
electronics can't at least protect the circuits from leak caused damage? They've all been laid off because they are too old, those that did not retire. You could protect the circuits, just put the battery in a hermeticly sealed enclosure. Look at the original post, though. The DM5010 had a VERY leaky battery (don't ask how I know) and as such, the battery was to be replaced every two to three years. This was well within the point where the battery would leak, so no problem. What the equipment was NOT designed to do was to sit idle on a shelf for five to fifteen years, not being used, not being charged, while the innards of the 5 dollar battery merrily ate away at the seals, or the shell, way after the point at which the battery would have been replaced. Lithium primary cells don't seem to be so badly behaved, although if you charge the secondary cells wrongly, or short either one; well, overheating as well as realize that lithium IS very fond of oxygen. We don't have a good cell chemistry yet, not one that can be charged thousands of times, has a good power to weight ratio, and so on. Still looking at the electron valence voltages between something electropositive and electronegative, and hoping that it's stable, light weight, and hopefully part of a reversible chemical action. How to store charge/power WELL is something we don't really know yet. Harvey I'm sure that I'm not the only one who has lost often irreplaceable
electronics to this pitfall.
Russ
On Monday, July 23, 2018, Kevin Oconnor <kjo@...> wrote:
You can certainly trickle charge some NiMH cells depending on the mfgr.
I¡¯ve used Panasonic cells that have a trickle charge spec. The trick is
that the trickle charge level can¡¯t generate more evolved oxygen than can
be absorbed at operating temps. That is the upper bound on trickle
charging.
There is also a lower bound on trickle charging that is often overlooked.
You have about 15-20 hrs max to recharge to full capacity. The reasoning by
mfgrs is vague but true and likely related to temp rise and gas evolution.
If you trickle charge at a rate less than that which will fully recharge in
15-20 hrs you will never fully restore full capacity.
Kjo
Sent from kjo iPhone
|
Re: Tektronix DM5010 NiCa 2.4V battery replacement
Half a century after men walked on the moon, can anyone please explain why
batteries still leak? Or why engineers capable of designing incredible
electronics can't at least protect the circuits from leak caused damage?
I'm sure that I'm not the only one who has lost often irreplaceable
electronics to this pitfall.
Russ
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Monday, July 23, 2018, Kevin Oconnor <kjo@...> wrote: You can certainly trickle charge some NiMH cells depending on the mfgr.
I¡¯ve used Panasonic cells that have a trickle charge spec. The trick is
that the trickle charge level can¡¯t generate more evolved oxygen than can
be absorbed at operating temps. That is the upper bound on trickle
charging.
There is also a lower bound on trickle charging that is often overlooked.
You have about 15-20 hrs max to recharge to full capacity. The reasoning by
mfgrs is vague but true and likely related to temp rise and gas evolution.
If you trickle charge at a rate less than that which will fully recharge in
15-20 hrs you will never fully restore full capacity.
Kjo
Sent from kjo iPhone
--
Good judgement comes from experience; experience comes from bad judgement.
99 times out of 10 a blown fuse is not due to a bad fuse.....
|
Re: Tektronix DM5010 NiCa 2.4V battery replacement
You can certainly trickle charge some NiMH cells depending on the mfgr. I¡¯ve used Panasonic cells that have a trickle charge spec. The trick is that the trickle charge level can¡¯t generate more evolved oxygen than can be absorbed at operating temps. That is the upper bound on trickle charging.
There is also a lower bound on trickle charging that is often overlooked. You have about 15-20 hrs max to recharge to full capacity. The reasoning by mfgrs is vague but true and likely related to temp rise and gas evolution. If you trickle charge at a rate less than that which will fully recharge in 15-20 hrs you will never fully restore full capacity.
Kjo
Sent from kjo iPhone
|
465B - Power Switch Mounting Nut Question
A few months ago, I removed the trigger board from my 465B to work on the power supply caps. I started reassembling it and was left with a small nylon(?) block with a hex nut holder and a small slot in it. See the album below for pictures of it. /g/TekScopes/album?id=64907If I'm not mistaken, I think this is used behind the nut that holds the power switch in place and I used it that way (last picture); however, I'm wondering if I have it turned 180-degrees and the small slot is supposed to align with the main board. Is that where that part goes and, if so, is it supposed to align with the other PC board? I've found one picture on the web that shows it and I think that's correct but would like to know whether I have that right. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ
|
Hello Fabio,
I think it had more to do with the sucker than me as it is quite hot so the solder melts quickly so it sucks up easy and out of the hole around the pin too. On wiggling the cap while heating the large pin I would just wiggle around lightly and when the solder melted it would move easy and so I would know it was loose melted.
Have inspected all the pads and holes with my head band magnifier and all looks good will verify with a dmm need to get a new battery as it is dead when I went to use it.
The 464 only uses the one cap at 1713 where as the 466 uses two my 464 only has one also.
On the three inside caps from the edge 1751. 1761, 1723 all the three holes in a row have the outer pads all connected to the ground trace so no need to jumper wire to the outer stand off pad as there is no trace on them and the same on 1721. On 1722 the single outer pad is not used so no wire there and 1781 the large hole pad not used either so no wire either 1722 is the one needing a wire as it has to have the single outer pad the - connection to the large hole on the inner row as it is the only ground pin used on that cap so small wire in BIG hole is prob to fill up maybe.
Jim
|
Hello Jim,
I`m glad I was helpful.
On your comments about taking out the big capacitors, I can't be more glad that you didn't have problems. you're either very lucky, or very, very good with the solder sucker (or both).
I had to do the same on mine, I consider myself very good at desoldering using a solder sucker and always did this kind of job on double-sided, through-hole plated boards without hassle... and I had a real bad time taking mine out.
I lifted at least 3 or four pads from the capacitor side, and stripped out an equal number of through-hole vias.
It was a real pain to put it back together, without having to make ugly wire jumpers. (I used tiny bits of component leads and wires, to make back the connections between both sides, using the available space around the capacitor pins, sometimes making the pins a bit thinner, to make room for the interconnecting wires inside the holes.
Nevertheless, since you mentioned that you had to wiggle them a little bit for them to come out, I recommend you make a careful inspection of all the through-hole vias and make sure they're in good shape.
The adhesive that sticks the copper to the board on those ancient boards are not top notch compared to modern boards and they won't stand a second desoldering session so, you don't want to be forced to take them out once again, just because you overlooked some through-hole via.
Regarding your question about C1713 (couldn't find a C1712), when I got my 464 on 2016, this one was already replaced by an aluminum electro (of 25V).
This fact gives room for assumption that the original Tantalum of 25V failed in that position, and I wouldn't hesitate in shuffling a 35V tantalum, or even a regular aluminum electrolytic there.
However, in face of the majority of other Tant caps that are infamous for failing in those scopes (of which Tek sometimes would use a 15V cap on a 15V rail), this one spec'd at 25V is not so badly spec'd after all.
This winding of the transformer seems to be something about 10Vac, and it puts just about 14V (rectified) across this capacitor so, I think that even 25V there will do fine but, if you can fit a 35V capacitor there, it's the best case scenario.
Ah... in time... if what you're worried about this, is that it's a 25V cap on a +140V supply (actually +154 unreg)... no fears... it's hooked to the +140V supply at its negative side so, it only "sees" the difference (which is about 14V).
Rgrds,
Fabio
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On Mon, Jul 23, 2018 at 05:42 PM, Jim Olson wrote:
Thanks Fabio for the reply. I opened my PDF copy of the 464 manual and found
the +15 volt end of the wire on the TRIG-VIEW switch but didn't know where it
went from there. Did some careful perusing of the TRIG-GENERATOR SWEEP BOARD
and found it at the bottom as you descibed it so then after I got my early 466
manual searched it out and found it also.
Appreciate the description of the circuit and also the chip diffs
i have started to put together the list of capacitors I am going to need and
have pulled the 6 caps from the interface board for the 466 I did not have any
real problem getting them off was a bit hesitant at first because of the
horror stories on here from folks doing that. Some time back I picked up a
real nice desoldering tool from Radio Shack it is a bulb sucker type with the
bulb attached above the handle and to the tip with a tube so you can put the
tip on the connection to be unsoldered and when soft just release the bulb
cleans off and out all the solder.
Once I got the first one out it was easy to see how they were attached just
put the tip hole down over the small pins first sucked out the solder so they
were loose the worked on the big one wiggling the cap while heating took two
three time to get it loose big hole filled up with solder on that one.
Have a question on two of the tant caps used in the power supply for one
section of the output they are two 47uf 25v caps # 1712 & 1713 they are in a
half wave rectified section and across the output for the +140v supply it
seems that 25v is a bit low here? Any comments here?
Jim
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Re: OT: HP 70843B Error Performance Analyzer, 12 GHz BERT info needed
Here is a list of the GaAs logic ICs used in the mux and demux modules. There are 12 pieces in each. I have found data sheets for a few, as shown, and a little descriptive stuff, and made some guesses based on the circuit topology. They were all made by NTT in the 1990s. If anyone knows of other info to fill in the blanks, it would be great.
TX 8:1 MUX
NL4515, 4pcs, no data, probably 2:1 mux, few GHz
NL4520-2, 1pc, have data - 3 GHz 1:2 clock distribution
NL4508, 1 pc, no data, probably a FF, few GHz
NLG4115, 3pcs, have data, 2:1 mux, 10 GHz
NLG4108, 2 pcs, no data, apparently 14.5 GHz TFF, used as clock divider
NLG4120, 1 pc, have data, 10 GHz 1:2 clock dist
RX 1:4 DEMUX
NL4506, 4 pcs, no data, probably few GHz 1:2 demux
NL4508, 1 pc, same as in MUX
NL4519, 1 pc, have data, 8 GHz 2-inp NAND, used as buffer
NLG4108, 1 pc, same as in MUX
NLG4120, 3 pcs, same as in MUX
NLG4104, 2 pcs, no data, probably 10 GHz 1:2 demux
It appears the NLG series are for full-speed sections around 10 GHz, while the NL series are slower, in the few GHz range. The HP70843B is spec'd to 12 Gbps, but probably at lesser performance beyond 10, or at high temperatures.
Ed
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Re: 7603 specifically and general refurbishment procedures of older oscilloscopes
Hi John,
There are a few things you could do before opening the cabinet.
It's possible that the scope is working normally but showing no trace because of a fault in the (un)blanking circuitry. You might check the signals at the rear panel BNC output connectors (Vert Sig Out, Gate Out, Sawtooth Out) to see if there is activity inside.
An (un)blanking fault could be present in the path from 7B plugin to/through the main interface board. I think, but I have no 7603 to test this myself, that the CRT will be unblanked anyway when you try the 7603 in XY mode using two 7A plugins. (Try this unfocused to avoid phosphor damage.) The dot position should listen to position controls.
Albert
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On Mon, Jul 23, 2018 at 05:57 PM, <johnasolecki@...> wrote:
Hello everyone,
The '03 seems to work when the 7L12 is installed
but I can't get any kind of trace (except for readouts) when I use any of my
7000 series plug ins. I can't say I've tried every permutation but I've tried
installing a 7A19, a 7A22, 7A26 in conjunction with a 7B92, 7B92A, 7B80 and a
7B85 with the "A" plug ins in the center & left slot and the "B" in the right
with no joy.
Because of this problem I'll be opening up the 7603; if anyone has any
specific suggestions on where to look I'd be grateful but otherwise are there
any common procedures for the overhaul of an older scope?
|
Bruce Lane
Fabio Trevisan