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That guy sold me a manual for a RLC bridge once, with exactly the schematic page missing where the fault is located. He didn't care when I pointed it out. I was not impressed, but I guess when you

I tried the UV LEDs first. They didn't work - probably because they aren't very far into the UV. They are pretty long wave UV - more purple than anything. In fact, every kind of LED I tried didn't

can be a bloody mess.<<< Certainly was for me, however; given my one off and ill prepared (and un-documented) attempt coupled with the consequences of a successful methodology. Well, we might want to

This is also the symptom for a G-K short in the crt. Be careful. -ls- "ledlensor" <rfwebb@...> wrote:

No, and you should also consider that if you want this scope, you don't really want the seller turning it on any more, and possibly burning the phosphor.

I'm looking for Mr. Emil Lenicov from Romania. If you are still on this list. Please contact me via e-mail. Thanks, Rock

I think the easiest test would be to measure the z-axis signal before the DC restorer but I would not call that simple. wrote:

I recently picked up an SG503 from a Tek ebay chipxs auction. I was a bit annoyed since the item sent did not match the item pictured. It was a lot dirtier and, more importantly, it was missing the

Hello, Peter-- As an alternative, you might want to investigate using ultraviolet-emitting LEDs, which you could arrange in a frame that fits around the CRT's outer edges and illuminates the CRT's

Is there any chance of getting a schematic of the flash circuit? I have an old C5B and plan to use it with a modern digital camera on my Tek 2467B 'scope and my HP 8505A Network analyzer. The flash

Bob, Thank you for checking on that. Someone else offered me an unknown condition multiplier for cheap, so I accepted. If that doesn't pan out, I may take you up on your offer, if it's not too late!

I had an even worse problem with peanuts. They got smashed into little pieces, then they floated around inside the scope, ending up under one of the HV covers. I then found out the hard way that

Bag the peanuts in leftover grocery store bags. That will help them stay in place. Also, I have used spray foam. Leave the plastic bag open at top over night to dry. Bob

OK, thanks. So there is a possibility. Is there any simple test I could give to the seller which might differentiate between the two? Thanks

The hybrids are known to fail but it could also be caused by a bad DC restorer which would be easy and cheap to fix. wrote:

Hi, Just looking at a 2465 on ebay which has just come up. It seems like the intensity is stuck on full brightness. I'm just wondering whether this is likely to be an easy fix? I did some googling and

Chris, I checked the manual and the 465B uses the same multiplier.? So I could disassemble my parts unit and remove the multiplier.? I have no idea whether it is good, and it will probably be a bit

http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/atq/3603048849.html I contacted the seller and he has the power supply and interconnect cable to go with it. He says the power cord is bad. I know SOMBODY needs this

Someone on the list has done some rebuilding of HV multipliers ...maybe it was for the 2213..the concept is pretty straight forward electrically. basically caps and diodes. THe challenge is laying out

Chris, I don't know the construction of the multiplier but perhaps it can be repaired. I have a working 465 but it's got a few minor issues.? A parts unit might be nice if it's cheap enough.? I have