开云体育

ctrl + shift + ? for shortcuts
© 2025 开云体育

Re: Adapter PCBs for 148-003x-00 relay replacement


 

I'd like to have some of those boards. I have two 7A13s and would like to replace all the relays. I also have a 7A12 which uses 8 of them.

In addition I need two of the "polarized" relays (148-0063-00). I cobbled up something out of two small relays that worked but getting two small relays in the small compartment is challenging.

Please let me know.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ

----- Original Message -----
From: "w.m.d.koch via groups.io" <w.m.d.koch@...>
To: "tekscopes" <TekScopes@groups.io>
Sent: Friday, January 3, 2025 11:02:34 AM
Subject: [TekScopes] Adapter PCBs for 148-003x-00 relay replacement
Hello all,

after quite a few years of absence from this group and from my trusty
7000-series equipment, I am back.
The reason is quite obvious. I have a special measurement job which needs my
7A13.
As expected, after almost 10 years of sitting around my 7A13 has quite a few
issues, but this is a story on its own.

As the subject already tells all the relays within the 7A13 have gone bad. Some
seemed to work fine, but on closer inspection every relay has its own problems.
Mostly contact resistance of the relays is highly unstable. Sometime you can get
the relay down to 100mOhm, sometimes the same contact has up to 10 Ohm.
Of course, I tried all the recommended reviving techniques like repeated
switching at high frequency under load, etc. but nothing really helped.
I remember that I replaced 2 of the relays already 10 years ago by a self-made
free-floating solution to fit a new relay into the old socket.
This was quite tedious and I don't want to repeat the same thing again. Leave
alone the fact that this free-floating solution might not be capable of
providing the right HF and Isolation performance.

By searching for a better solution in this group I saw the solution of Tom Ford
back in 2019. (/g/TekScopes/album?id=91736)
Unfortunately, he didn't provide any design data and he seems to be offline
since then. Therefore, I went to action and designed my own little adapter PCB.
And I will also try to document my work as good as possible, to give anyone
else enough information to do this on his own. Related pictures can be found
here and maybe on my GibHub. /g/TekScopes/album?id=299851

My first Idea was to replace the internals of the original TEK relays with a
modern relay with the original TEK Housing still in place. Therefore, the PCB
had to be so small to fit inside the original housing and connect to the relay
and the header pins.
In addition to the relay there also should be a small bridge rectifier to get
rid of the polarity issue most modern relays have (most modern relays are
polarized) and optional a little SMD LED to see if the relay is activated.
As the space within the relay is really tiny, I came up with the idea of using a
2layer Flex PCB which would be bent and hold the relay, a bridge rectifier and
an LED + resistor.
This concept (concept 1) looked really good but I had quite a few problems:
1. Crosstalk between channels and isolation between open contacts was not that
good because of relatively long tracks in the flat flex running in parallel.
2. Flux residue between the flat flex and the header caused leakage which cause
"enormous" leakage currents. Not the required +/-0.2nA more the +/-15nA or even
more.
3. Due to the tight space within the relay the bending radius of the flat flex
was quite tight and only in the range of 1-1.5mm. This caused on some trials
problems with broken tracks.
All in all, the ideas sounded great but the realization was not the great at
all.

For my next concept (concept2) I reverted back to the idea of Tom Ford and
created my own little adapter PCB for both needed relay types used in the 7A13.
At the moment this is an unproven design as the relays are still on back order
and I'm waiting for the distributor to dispatch my order.
For the relay I did a longer market study to find the best fitting relay. In the
end I decided to use the AXICOM IM06TS which is really tiny and still provides
relatively good switching and HF performance.
The footprint of the relay is a little issue as the row spacing between the pins
is only 5.08mm. This makes the pads slightly interfere with the through hole
pads of the socket header. To still accommodate the socket header and the relay
on the same PCB without interfering I decided that the pins of the relay need
to be bent outwards a little (~.7mm per side). This is not a really nice
solution but I assume it will work fine. If the socket header would have been
available in a SMT version the use of a SMT relay would have made everything a
lot easier.

I presume Tom Ford used the BAS3007 as bridge rectifier. Unfortunately, this
part was not available at my favorite distributor. Thus, I selected the
BAS40DW-04 which is not exactly a bridge rectifier, but it can be connected as
one while still being really tiny.
As I already wrote I also added a small surface mount LED together with a
resistor to the PCB because I experienced on my unit some issues with the
Cam-Switches which could have been easily debugged if there had been a little
indicator in place.

All in all, the BOM for a 148-0034-00 relay replacement looks like this, for the
148-0035-00 it is basically the same, you only need to remove some pins from
the pin header rows.
1x Relay (IM06TS)
0.1x Pin Header (W+P 952-09-080-2 cut into 10 pieces)
1x SMD Resistor 0603 1.8kOhm
1x SMD LED 0603 yellow

The resulting PCB is measuring 8 x 14.5mm and is still smaller than the original
relay (8.5 x 16mm). My favorite Chinese PCB manufacturer charges me the same no
matter if the PCB is 8x14.5mm or 100x100mm. Therefore, I decided to make my own
custom panel which utilizes the 100x100mm as good as possible. Now I have 5
panels of 66PCBs each lying next to me waiting for assembly. Each PCB holds 36
148-0034-00 compatible PCBs and 30 148-0035-00 compatible PCBs.

As already stated above I was not able to do any tests, but I will definitely do
tests as soon as I have some relay. As soon as my concept of the PCB is tested
and proven good, I will give you all a follow up on the status and will also
publish the design data in case you want to replicate or improve my design.

I will not need all 330 PCBs, maybe 15 to 20. Therefore, I am willing to sell
these to anyone interested in getting some relay replacements. As I also
ordered a solder paste stencil I will wait how big the interesst in these PCB
is before i start populating a whole panel. I think it would be the easiest if
I sell these PCBs with the SMT parts already soldered on.

Best regards,

Wolfgang


Join TekScopes@groups.io to automatically receive all group messages.