My hope and intent is to write up a 465 tear down page - perhaps on the Tek Wiki? Somewhere where I can create some hierarchy and include inline pictures.
Been parallel researching methods. EEVBlog: blogs loose pictures or other such barriers and instabilities. Groups.io can't do inline pictures, nor linkable hierarchy (I don't think?). Web sites require annual fees, die, etc. And I hate Wordpress. It's not an all consuming soul eating hate. Just never quite cuts it. Like using a flat blade to take out a philips head.
I prefer wiki's as they're more maintainable and enable hierarchy and inline pictures. They have issues - like web page stability, organizational management, ... I'll be reaching out to the admin on Tek Wiki.
As nice and helpful as EEVBlog and ModemHead have been, they don't really give the first timer clear instructions and insights into the do's and don'ts of the tear down. Don't you hate it when you break something because you didn't know about the little clip behind the thing that releases what you pried open with a 1/2" screwdriver?
I'm hesitant to write incremental tid-bits, but the "trick" for me behind the vertical assembly removal was that the BNCs are NOT bolted to the face - like the trigger BNCs are.
They come out with the entire assembly.
The assembly is held to the face plate with the four 1/4" nuts buried behind C3/C53 of the CH1/CH2 attenuator shields. The rest of the connections and screws are relatively obvious. I'll detail those in my full how-to.
My workbench/toolkit is somewhat limited. I only have a 1/4" socket - no open ended wrench. I don't know if that would help or not. Perhaps there are other tools to get around C3/C53? What I did was remove C3/C53: I wicked the solder from the bundle of R1, C1, C2, and C3. I was able to wick from beneath: a little flux on the wick, with the scope on it's trigger side (vert assembly up), put the solder tip under the component lead bundle with the wick between, and "ssssss" all that solder just sucked nice and neatly into the wick. Then separating the C3/C53 lead from the bundle was simple with some tweezers and the iron.
Then detachment from tiny 1/4 watt R3/R53 is easy. Note that in my scope C3/C53 have a ground post plugged into the A1/A2 attenuator board. Because it's plugged in it swiveled the cap around nicely while unsoldering from the other components. Then it just lifts out. That gave enough room to get the 1/4" socket on the nuts. Pliers _might_ have worked, but I hate tearing things up like that. Makes it look armature.
I discovered all this after unsoldering EVERYthing from the BNCs. The connections to the 10x wire is sketchy and tenuous. R1/R51 to the BNC center wasn't bad, but still. Uhg. Now I have to put all this back together. Completely unnecessary.
I have to say this is one aspect of Tektronix construction I'm not thrilled with. Definitely not mil-spec!
Hope that helps.
Dave
Dave Peterson