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This boat was built under license by Shock on the west coast and is currently residing in the San Diego area. Here is the Craigslist link. https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/boa/d/oceanside-tartan-27/7597588641.html Good Sailing Everyone, Peter

Hey Folks, This spring, I'm going to be doing some repairs and ultimately painting the 6-8" above the rub rail on my Tartan 27-2. I'm entertaining removing the rub rail to make repairs and painting easier, but I'm not sure if the removal trade off is worth it especially since our rub rail condition right now is good. 1. Has anyone here gone through this process of having to remove and/or repair a rub rail on a T27-2? How was it? 2. Were you able to re-use the existing rub rail or were you able to source a replacement somewhere? If replacement, from where? Thanks all! Traci Dawn, #663

We unstepped the mast last fall and just now are getting around to upgrading the lights and wiring on the mast. To my surprise it seems that a snake cannot be run down the inside of the mast. There are at least two blocks of an unknown material in the mast and there seems to be no way to get new wires past them. Or even pull an existing wire through. Has anyone encountered this? And if so, how to remove then? Or get through them? Thanks Barry

Hi Ned, There was just some discussion on the Cal Sailing list of electric outboards. That might be a thought. Main downside seems to be range, which is not an issue if you're just pushing into and out of the slip. My Kubota diesel, with a fair amount of maintenance, has been reliable so far, but I try to have backups for things so there's a long shaft 55 thrust-pound Minn Kota stuffed in the starboard cockpit locker. That does move the boat, and being able to swivel it to steer is handy. This is more in the $200 range than the $2000 range. It has its own single 12 volt battery that also runs a backup bilge pump. I'd love to be able to pop it on to get in and out of the slip and keep it stowed otherwise, and not have any other motor but I'm not that confident right now. An outboard isn't a great fashion statement but my two cents is if you aren't going to do whatever is needed to make the inboard happy, go for the outboard and save grief and money. Or if you want to keep an inboard that's not completely reliable and just have a backup to possibly have to limp in when its calm, a simple, cheap trolling motor can work. Higher end, people here are having good luck with Torqeedo outboards. That and https://www.elcomotoryachts.com/product/ep-9-9-electric-outboard/?attribute_step-1-select-shaft-size=Tiller+Long start at about $3,000. The club has a bunch of gas powered outboards and they're unreliable at best and only as reliable as they are because they constantly get run and get fresh gas, and people get trained on dealing with them. It seems like around 9.9HP or so, companies try to make them at least a bit reliable, but below that, it's like a lawnmower with a propeller. I'm not sure I'd trade the diesel inboard for a gas outboard because that seems like trading one set of maintenance problems for another. One other person who has posted on here has gone electric inboard, had good thing sto say about it, and I'm thinking about that too. Last time I was hauled out in a DIY yard, someone there had a Westsail they were refitting including installing a https://electricyacht.com/ electric, and it sounds like it's served them well. It's a lot fewer potential points of a failure and a lot less expensive than a new diesel, but then HP and range each come at a premium, which could be a good trade off if you're just pushing in and out. I can definitely relate to wanting to do less work on things and more sailing. Good luck! -scott

Of course. Richard previously linked to http://www.tartanyachts.com/previous-build-models/ . That links to http://www.tartanyachts.com/t27/ . There's a "Design Info" tab at the bottom of the page with these links: http://www.tartanyachts.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/Tartan-27-Standard-Sail-Plan.pdf?x16223 http://www.tartanyachts.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/Tartan-27-Construction-Plan.pdf?x16223 http://www.tartanyachts.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/Tartan-27-Arrangement-Plan.pdf?x16223 There are Brochure, News, Images, and Handbook tabs too. News is an article that is very much not recent that starts with another picture of moistening the rail and pulling hard on the tiller sailing to wind under full sail: http://www.tartanyachts.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/T27-Plain-Dealer-1.pdf?x16223 Cheers, -scott

Richard Shearley posted earlier just saying "Information". Clicking through randomly, I noticed that Tartan actually posted a nice, high-res scan of the blueprints... three, actually. Here's the Construction Plan: http://www.tartanyachts.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/Tartan-27-Construction-Plan.pdf?x16223 As of a few years ago, unless I'm mistaken, there was only a low res jpg where lettering was illegible. This one is clearly readable and also clearly for the non-encapsulated ballast. (Schock started doing encapsulated ballast before McLeod/Tartan did.) One ongoing discussion is servicing/repairing/rebuilding/replacing/throwing away the centerboard. https://wavetrain.net/2010/06/08/tartan-27-classic-pocket-cruiser/ reports that "the first dozen boats built in 1961 were bronze". This may be a not too distant project. It's blowing 24mph gusting 34 today and yesterday in the CA delta. I'll take the extra weight. As it is, it's just wearing through my non-chafe-protected 1/2" dock lines. Lots of small projects. New plexiglass over the engine instrument panel which some PO installed in the forward part of the cockpit next to the centerboard uphaul. Some cleaning up electrical. Replaced a broken compass (float listing to one side, plexiglass crazed, no idea which way is north) with a small plotter from PO that was on an arm that I'd taken down early on. Re-used the same holes in the coach back. Too many holes already. Trying not to add more. Set up the depth sounder. Should have done that a long time ago. Got stuck on a sandbar for an unpleasant 15 minutes last year then immediately did it again trying to tack back out, and then was badly dragging bottom a couple of times this year so giving up on the "if it's shallow, I'll see the bottom!" theory. This last time, it was near a wreck, which should have been a wake-up call then. I bought a Hawkeye depth sounder but no where in the hull below the water line can it actually sound through, testing with Vasoline, but the little black and white Lowrance Mark 4 can. Reading more too late, the Hawkeye is super low power and often has this problem. I was doing that when I'd notice that electrical to the compass had failed. Masthead light is out but power makes it to the mast base. Not fixing that today. Been using my Garmin eTrex 20x with Bluecharts loaded on it because it predicts tides and being able to hold it up to my face is handy absent a huge screen. Kind of crazy that it supports Bluecharts 2 but sadly it doesn't 3. Need to investigate a report of community converted NOAA charts. There's definitely no way to get depth soundings on it tho, tho maybe the eTrex 30 does since it talks to a bunch of kinds of sensors. Rebedding mast hardware and finding some unhappy holes. Replaced a bunch of lines and getting ready to replace everything else. Had new standing rigging put up last year by Scott Easom/Easom Racing, who was awesome. Re-did chainplate anchoring more last year after getting out of stern tube purgatory. Or maybe it was before. With the dripless, except topside leaks during rainstorms (mast, cockpit lockers), the bilge is dry, but I have two bilge pumps and set up a third diaphram pump on a timer and solar panel and it's own small battery to run 1 minute once a week to try to clear the last bit of water when I'm not here. Trying the Calgon detergent method to clean out the holding tank. Still have some soggy parts of the deck to deal with. That's frustrating as the decks were solid when I got the boat, and I immediately started re-bedding stuff, but I apparently wasn't fast enough and there were too many projects to be able to focus on that. Some of it seems to be just the fiberglass laminate cracking after decades in the California sun and heat. Been trying to watch for cracks and have several just spacked over with 4200. Cal Sailing Club club Pearson Commanders got a layer of new fiberglass on their decking and it looks like I'll have to do the same. Still thinking about electric. The Kubota Z500 has been running without issue but even with a wet exhaust, the exhaust is

http://www.tartanyachts.com/previous-build-models/ Richard Shearley

This past weekend we were out sailing in about 20 knots and a great deal of weather helm. While holding the tiller over with a fair amount of force I heard some "creaking" or clicking when putting force on the tiller and also when letting off. I didn't feel any looseness however I don't recall this ever happening before. Any ideas of what might be causing this, and a possible fix? Also is this a big concern? It doesn't happen in lighter winds. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated. #663

Know someone looking for a boat? Sag Harbor Long Island NY. Text following the link was sent to me when I inquired about it. https://longisland.craigslist.org/boa/d/sag-harbor-tartan-27/7391176079.html Here is a rundown on the boat: We've had her for 30 years but need to give her up now because of health issues. The boat is exceptionally seaworthy. We've taken it from Sag Harbor to Block Island, Cuttyhunk, Point Judith, etc. I've had boats which didn't feel seaworthy but this Tartan 27 whether it's going through the turbulence of Plum Gut or when the wind picks up a lot, just holds steady. And for water where there are plenty of shallow spots, its draft, although of only three feet, and hull design, leaves you feeling like you are in a boat with five or six foot draft. Also, being the first cruising sailboat made by Tartan, the tolerances of fiberglass were not known so they overbuilt the hull and topside - with their fiberglass about three-quarters or so thick rather than the bleach-bottle-width, it would seem, of plenty of new boats today. I installed an electric pump for the water system so the water system is powered, and had a prior marina install a hot water tank, to which not only the sink but a shower is attached. The main thing that needs to be done is interior painting. My wife sanded it down in the spring to ready it for painting. Serious interior painting is needed which would probably take three days. The one thing absent from the boat is the small centerboard that deteriorated. But I didn't replace it (as I did an earlier centerboard that came with the boat that also deteriorated) because the boat sails perfectly without it. A new centerboard can be bought from the Tartan people for about $2,000. But the only times I ever dropped the centerboard was in high seas on cruising way out in the ocean to help with pointing. There is one place where the deck-support under of one of the poles for a side railing felt weak and I reinforced the support with a piece of stainless steel, about 10 inches by five inches, cut by a machinist in Sag Harbor, including holes for bolts. I bolted down the steel on the deck under this stanchion, connecting it from the top to a piece of plywood of the same size below deck. Otherwise, the desk is fairly OK (but there are some soft spots) -- and was repainted with Imron paint sprayed on by a local boat-painter about four years ago. He also did the hull about six or seven years ago. (He prefers working with Imron rather than Awlgrip.) The mainsail is in good shape and we have one or two additional mainsails of the same vintage that we've stored. The sail on the roller furling was designed specifically for the boat and made by North Sail and is in perfect shape. A North Sail rep came out and did the measurements. It is an absolute pleasure because my wife used to have to go up on the bow to change jibs when wind conditions changed substantially. The size of the jib can be easily changed from the cockpit by pulling a line. This is a sacrifice proposition. It cost $5,400 to install the new Yanmar engine -- done by a Yanmar mechanic at the Sag Harbor Yacht Yard which does Yanmar work -- and then there was the cost of the engine itself, more than $6,000. As noted, the engine works perfectly. But after just one sail of about three hours using the new engine, my wife and I -- with both of us reaching 80 years old in a few months and, as noted, with medical issues, she having problems with a knee -- decided it was time to sell.

I'm getting ready to cut up my perfectly good Tartan 27 mast for scrap $$ to avoid storage fees. If anyone is in need, feel free to contact me. Thanks, Rick