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Clear Window/Port Replacement For a 1967 Boat

 

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?Does anyone have any experience in replacing the 50+ year old, scratched and crazed porthole windows on each side of the main cabin? I got the interior screws out of the aluminum frame no problem, so now what? Seems like it would be very easy to permanently damage the thin aluminum interior frame by prying with a screwdriver. Is that just a flat frame or is it a whole window unit? Any idea what type of adhesive might be holding it all in? All I want to do is replace the clear plastic with new. I want to maintain the existing opening shapes, as they are vintage 1960’s.

The head port is more of a standard glass port. I could see just replacing that with new at some point.
 

About 13 years ago I replaced mine #226. After I removed the screws, I had to gradually work the aluminum Lipton free it up . On did start to crack so I worked slower. I used acrylic as original. I only 100% silicone. The research I did said that many other chalks will react with acrylic. Good luck.
John Bailey

On Mar 25, 2023, at 7:03 AM, SCOTT ROSASCO via groups.io <srosa25043@...> wrote:

?
?
?Does anyone have any experience in replacing the 50+ year old, scratched and crazed porthole windows on each side of the main cabin? I got the interior screws out of the aluminum frame no problem, so now what? Seems like it would be very easy to permanently damage the thin aluminum interior frame by prying with a screwdriver. Is that just a flat frame or is it a whole window unit? Any idea what type of adhesive might be holding it all in? All I want to do is replace the clear plastic with new. I want to maintain the existing opening shapes, as they are vintage 1960’s.

The head port is more of a standard glass port. I could see just replacing that with new at some point.
 

Scott,
One excellent resource is the blog called . He details the replacement of fixed lights on I think it's a Pearson. He dispenses with the screwed frame and relies on overlapping?the plexi on the cabin house. This is what I will do if I can manage to get back to fixing my T27.

BTW, if anyone is looking for a very cheap T27, I am moving and at some point will need to find a new home for mine. While needy (fixed lights, rebed deck hdwr, CB,?rudder repair,?surface treatments, etc.) she's not a derelict. It just seems like it may be time for another skipper to love her back into the water.?

Alan


On Sat, Mar 25, 2023 at 9:05?AM John Bailey <john.bailey50@...> wrote:
About 13 years ago I replaced mine #226. After I removed the screws, I had to gradually work the aluminum? Lipton free it up . On did start to crack so I worked slower. I used acrylic as original. I only 100% silicone. The research I did said that many other chalks will react with acrylic. Good luck.
John Bailey
> On Mar 25, 2023, at 7:03 AM, SCOTT ROSASCO via <srosa25043=[email protected]> wrote:
>
> ?
> ?
> ?Does anyone have any experience in replacing the 50+ year old, scratched and crazed porthole windows on each side of the main cabin? I got the interior screws out of the aluminum frame no problem, so now what? Seems like it would be very easy to permanently damage the thin aluminum interior frame by prying with a screwdriver. Is that just a flat frame or is it a whole window unit? Any idea what type of adhesive might be holding it all in? All I want to do is replace the clear plastic with new. I want to maintain the existing opening shapes, as they are vintage 1960’s.
>
> The head port is more of a standard glass port. I could see just replacing that with new at some point.
>
>
>
>
>
>



 

We did ours about 15 years ago. Aluminum frames pried off pretty easily. Found it fairly simple: biggest surprise was that kerosene dissolved the grey goop sealant best. Ohio built boat: maybe there are differences on the California boats. Definitely prefer the original look to the visible overlap, but that’s totally subjective. Good luck!

Marty
Bowen Island, BC


On Sat, Mar 25, 2023 at 9:28 AM Alan Schaeffer <alan.g.schaeffer@...> wrote:
Scott,
One excellent resource is the blog called . He details the replacement of fixed lights on I think it's a Pearson. He dispenses with the screwed frame and relies on overlapping?the plexi on the cabin house. This is what I will do if I can manage to get back to fixing my T27.

BTW, if anyone is looking for a very cheap T27, I am moving and at some point will need to find a new home for mine. While needy (fixed lights, rebed deck hdwr, CB,?rudder repair,?surface treatments, etc.) she's not a derelict. It just seems like it may be time for another skipper to love her back into the water.?

Alan


On Sat, Mar 25, 2023 at 9:05?AM John Bailey <john.bailey50@...> wrote:
About 13 years ago I replaced mine #226. After I removed the screws, I had to gradually work the aluminum? Lipton free it up . On did start to crack so I worked slower. I used acrylic as original. I only 100% silicone. The research I did said that many other chalks will react with acrylic. Good luck.
John Bailey
> On Mar 25, 2023, at 7:03 AM, SCOTT ROSASCO via <srosa25043=[email protected]> wrote:
>
> ?
> ?
> ?Does anyone have any experience in replacing the 50+ year old, scratched and crazed porthole windows on each side of the main cabin? I got the interior screws out of the aluminum frame no problem, so now what? Seems like it would be very easy to permanently damage the thin aluminum interior frame by prying with a screwdriver. Is that just a flat frame or is it a whole window unit? Any idea what type of adhesive might be holding it all in? All I want to do is replace the clear plastic with new. I want to maintain the existing opening shapes, as they are vintage 1960’s.
>
> The head port is more of a standard glass port. I could see just replacing that with new at some point.
>
>
>
>
>
>






--
Marty Levenson

registered art therapist, BA, DVATI
604-928.4033
 

Debond will break down most adhesive caulk. But not silicone. Silicone is generally frownd apon because for future repairs, nothing sticks to it including new silicone. Bedit butyl tape is preferred.
Work slowly.? Debond takes a little time. Heat can also be helpful. Putty knives. Razor knives, wood wedges. We are in the process of doing this job. Putting back laminated saftey glass.
--
Carl Damm
DAMSELv
1976 #593
Stuart Fl
 

I just want to understand. The interior aluminum frame comes off and then I can take out and replace the plastic, or do both the interior and exterior aluminum frames need to be removed?

On Apr 15, 2023, at 7:15 AM, Carl Damm <cfdamm@...> wrote:

?Debond will break down most adhesive caulk. But not silicone. Silicone is generally frownd apon because for future repairs, nothing sticks to it including new silicone. Bedit butyl tape is preferred.
Work slowly. Debond takes a little time. Heat can also be helpful. Putty knives. Razor knives, wood wedges. We are in the process of doing this job. Putting back laminated saftey glass.
--
Carl Damm
DAMSELv
1976 #593
Stuart Fl

 

Both come out.


On Sun, Apr 16, 2023 at 7:43?PM Scott Rosasco <scottrosasco@...> wrote:
I just want to understand. The interior aluminum frame comes off and then I can take out and replace the plastic, or do both the interior and exterior aluminum frames need to be removed?


> On Apr 15, 2023, at 7:15 AM, Carl Damm <cfdamm@...> wrote:
>
> ?Debond will break down most adhesive caulk. But not silicone. Silicone is generally frownd apon because for future repairs, nothing sticks to it including new silicone. Bedit butyl tape is preferred.
> Work slowly.? Debond takes a little time. Heat can also be helpful. Putty knives. Razor knives, wood wedges. We are in the process of doing this job. Putting back laminated saftey glass.
> --
> Carl Damm
> DAMSELv
> 1976 #593
> Stuart Fl
>
>



 

In theory the glass should come out from either side. In practice you may end up with inner and outer frames coming loose. It all will depend on the condition of the caulk. On our boat the whole instalation had degraded to the point that every thing had to come apart. The plexi had been replaced once before and the workmanship was very poor. I am reinstalling with Bedit Butyl.
--
Carl Damm
DAMSELv
1976 #593
Stuart Fl

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