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Yanmar 2GM20F
We just purchased a T27. We need we needed to replace the fresh water pump, and were told to purchase part #YM-128695-42010 That part has the pump and the alternator bracket mounted behind it. Does anyone know if the pump is available by itself? I have attached 2 photos, one with the new pump (the shiny metal) installed on the old alternator mount, and the second with a the old pump that was removed with the new bracket.
We installed the pump yesterday, and had no issues. We ran the motor for 20 minutes while the bilge pumped out, and then started on our 6 hour trip from Huntington LI to City Island, NY. We were 45 minutes along, when the motor slowed down and died. We were able to sail back to our starting point and tried to figure out what was wrong, but struck out. A mechanic will look at the motor later today. |
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Congrats on your Tartan 27 and welcome to the group.
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Was raw water actually flowing? If you have a wet exhaust setup, exhaust will sputter water out. Do you have a temperature gauge for the engine? Most likely with a diesel, it's a fuel issue, either water getting in to the fuel or solids (potentially solids that formed in the tank) clogging filters or injectors, or air getting in to the fuel lines and needing to bleed and possibily fuel lines sealed better. Detach the line going out of the fuel lift pump and try pumping fuel in to a jar while you turn over the engine (for only 10 seconds at a time then a 30 second rest). Fuel should flow. If that works, plug it back in to the pump then bleed the injectors. If it doesn't, test bypassing fuel filters with little clear plastic in-line filters of the right size and then bleed until spurts of diesel shoot out. After bleeding, try firing up the engine. If there's a valve release lever, use it while bleeding and testing the lift pump. Whichever thing you that gets fuel flowing again likely indicates the problem: clogged filter, air in the fuel lines, etc. If injectors are clogged, none of those will work. Send the injectors out for service. If the fuel that gets pumped out of the lift pump separates in to water and oil, you had water in the fuel. Get a separating filter and check it each time you use the engine. If the engine isn't even turning over but the starter selenoid clicks, it may have overheated and seized, but you'd likely have noticed that it was very unhappy before that would happen. When draining the water out of a water pump, such as when replacing it like you did, you may have to prime it by pouring water in or opening a bleed screw and letting air bleed out and water flow in. That potential for getting air trapped in the pump is part of why it's a good idea to always make sure water is flowing through the system and sputtering out in the exhaust (or whereever it comes out) when starting the engine. You said you have a mechanic coming but posting this troubleshooting guide anyway as some of these items are pre-flight checks and the others can be useful to have the next time you're troubleshooting underway. Also, carrying a spare starter and selenoid (which may be combined in to the same unit) is a really good idea. And spare filters. Always spare filters, even if they're just the little clear in-line dealies. Cheers, -scott On 0, Howard Fidel <howard@...> wrote:
We just purchased a T27. We need we needed to replace the fresh water |
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I installed a 2GM20F in my Tartan and the only problem I have had with it is air in the fuel system....which will kill the engine in a heartbeat.? I would check the fuel system, be sure everything is clean, replace filters (2) as needed and bleed the system at the injectors.? If you are at all handy you can do it yourself.? Need metric tools and a manual, all available, and you must have them since you changed the cooling pump.
The only thing that stops a diesel once it is running is lack of fuel.? If you had no overheating alarms then the cooling system should not be at fault.? Hope this helps.
Jim
T27 Morgenfrau
5 Mile River
Rowayton
-----Original Message-----
From: Howard Fidel <howard@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Wed, Jul 1, 2020 11:47 am Subject: [T27Owners] Yanmar 2GM20F We just purchased a T27. We need we needed to replace the fresh water pump, and were told to purchase part #YM-128695-42010 That part has the pump and the alternator bracket mounted behind it. Does anyone know if the pump is available by itself? I have attached 2 photos, one with the new pump (the shiny metal) installed on the old alternator mount, and the second with a the old pump that was removed with the new bracket.
We installed the pump yesterday, and had no issues. We ran the motor for 20 minutes while the bilge pumped out, and then started on our 6 hour trip from Huntington LI to City Island, NY. We were 45 minutes along, when the motor slowed down and died. We were able to sail back to our starting point and tried to figure out what was wrong, but struck out. A mechanic will look at the motor later today. |
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We checked the filters and bled the lines. Couldn't get the injectors due to rust. Also, I learned after the event the fuel is very old. That probably was the root cause of the problem. We didn't have the pump to pump it out, and since we were far from home, we decided to have the mechanic work on it. He didnn;t get to it yesterday, but will definitely work on it today.
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I
concur with your actions and assessment of the cause.? I found bleeding
the injectors which is as far as the air can be trapped, is the only proven way to get the air out, so you may
want to fix the rusted high pressure lines and connections.? The Yanmar
mechanical pump has a very slow pumping rate and it takes FOREVER to get
the fuel through the engine pump, lines, governor and to the
injectors.? I am trying to find a small in-line electric booster pump
that will keep positive pressure on the governor, but also allow
syphoning if the pump is turned off, similar to what is found in
aviation.
I have also found that the system
between the tank and engine pump can get a vapor lock in the lines just
by sitting which can lead to a unexpected loss of power or even kill the
engine....maybe old fuel makes that more likely.?
Just my experience and 2 cents.
Hope it helps
-----Original Message-----
From: Howard Fidel <howard@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Thu, Jul 2, 2020 8:02 am Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Yanmar 2GM20F We checked the filters and bled the lines. Couldn't get the injectors due to rust. Also, I learned after the event the fuel is very old. That probably was the root cause of the problem. We didn't have the pump to pump it out, and since we were far from home, we decided to have the mechanic work on it. He didnn;t get to it yesterday, but will definitely work on it today.
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I got some inexpensive generic fuel pump of the correct line size on
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eBay when I was first troubleshooting this engine (boat was sold to me with the diesel not running) and I'd figured out I was having some fuel supply issue (from the lack of fuel out of the lift pump). Worked fine and was definately faster than the Kubota's mechanical pump, but went back to the mechanical pump after figuring out it was working and the cause was a 2nd hidden filter between the cockpit and the fuel tank that was clogged. But I still carry it for priming fuel filters, testing if needed, transferring fuel if ever needed, etc. I gave it a cigeratte lighter plug. But actually using it instead of the mechanical one would certainly make bleeding faster tho maybe a bit fast and messy if I'm not careful. I imagine the existing mechanical pump would need to be removed and the hole sealed or else given a closed loop of oil to pump so that it didn't wreck itself and wedge. Replacing hardened fuel lines and keeping hose clamps snug could help prevent drawing air in to the system. I was having trouble there too. "All a diesel needs is fuel and engine oil" is surprisingly tricky. -scott, #93 On 0, "JAMES DOBBS via groups.io" <jdob3542@...> wrote:
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