Got a 404 not found on the Google album and Yahoo claims to have the
photo too but I can never just log in... it's always some kind of a
gauntlet.
But in general, "On option would be to hammer it back into place, and
then add some fiberglass and epoxy on the inside. But that sound
sketchy."... IMO, glassing stuff solid is the least sketchy option.
Sikaflex ismore designed for being a gasket between parts with
different thermal expansion coefficients than to build structure. If
you use it as a gasket between parts and there's force or pressure,
then something else should be holding the parts together. So IMO just
make it a permanent part of hull and do fiberglass layout. Obviously
just make sure it's straight and stays straight until the structure
starts to form.
When I went to top off the diesel (repowered at some point before my
tenure), I discovered the injector return line had melted on the
exhaust manifold, and that made a small mess. And there's an exhaust
leak. Inboards are needy. The sculling oar looks like a really good
idea.
-scott
On 8/24/19, Jeremy Shaw jeremy@... [T27Owners]
<T27Owners@...> wrote:
I just want to clarify and add one more thing.
In the title I said I knocked the bronze tube loose. But that is an
overstatement. It definitely move 1/4" or so -- but if I grab it and try to
move it, it does not wiggle or move in or out at all. So it is still in
there pretty darn tight.
I also added a photo to the album of the tube inside the boat. The
fiberglass around the tube there used to actually be laminated to the tube,
but has delaminated. Perhaps friction is primarily what holds the tube in
place and the little bit of fiberglass on the inside prevents water that
makes it around the outside of the tube from leaking into the bilge?
Updated album:
- jeremy
On Sat, Aug 24, 2019 at 6:17 PM Jeremy Shaw <jeremy@...> wrote:
Ahoy,
I was installing a new cutlass bearing with a home made puller
(all-thread, washers, nuts), and my wrench was not long enough to give me
enough torque to get the cutlass bearing in all the way. So I decided to
tighten it as much as possible and then hit the end of the rod with a
hammer. Then I could tightening another 1/2 turn or so.
The idea is that because of the tension from the rod, I wouldn't have to
hammer as hard. That worked fine until I dislodged the stern tube. I
guess
I should have just waited and got some longer wrenches? Or maybe it
should
not have been that hard in the first place?
So the question is -- what now? From what I can tell there is a
fiberglass
tube that has a 3' or so long bronze tube in it, and the cutlass goes
into
aft end of the bronze tube.
The bronze tube is now displaced about 1/4". Though it is still in there
pretty tight. I've attached photos of the current situation.
So, what now?
I am guessing that even if I tapped the bronze tube back into place it
would leak or perhaps shift around later.
On option would be to hammer it back into place, and then add some
fiberglass and epoxy on the inside. But that sound sketchy. Maybe the
whole
thing needs to be completely removed, cleaned up, and then reinstalled
with Sikaflex 291 or 292 or something? Or maybe it only needs a little
bit
of sealant on the last inch of the tube?
I'm trying to get an idea of the scope of the project and then decide if
I
should do it or get the boatyard to do it.
From what I can tell, stern tubes do have to be replaced now and then and
are (often) not permanently affixed to the boat. And, perhaps if mine
came
loose 'this easily' it was time to reseal it anyway? I'd like to pretend
that I accidentally discovered some maintenance that needed to be done
anyway, though I suspect that is not the case.
Worst case, I guess I'll just have to glass over the hole, take out the
engine, and get a big sculling oar like the guy on How To Sail Oceans.
Thanks!
- jeremy
