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We have some waters like that around here.? We have the East River, which is really not a river at all but a tidal inlet.? Then we have the Hudson River.? Both can have tidal currents that

Looking at some more of those, this has a hub design that looks like it would resist pulling apart: https://www.mcmaster.com/3395N1-3395N15/ That's more shock absorbing than vibration dampening tho,

I guess the one pictured is yours, and it broke? The rubber separated from the metal? And nothing holds it together except the chemical bond of the rubber? Take the whole thing and your photos to a

Hi All, Our T-27 (hull #123) is up for sale in Norwalk CT. It has been on Long Island Sound since new, I am the second owner and have worked on it more than sailed it. Age is forcing me to sell. It

Thanks Caleb, Obviously the solution to get us home is top of mind. Once there, a world of more permanent solutions are available to us (including repowering and electrification). We certainly don't

In the number of years I've been boating on mine and other peoples boats I have never seen a "drive saver" quite like that.? I have not spent a lot of time on boats with the Farymann A30 diesel, but

I was hoping to, but have been unable to find a product with a close enough fit to the existing flanges. The existing surface is 4 in diameter, with a ~2 and 7/8 in bolt pattern, and 1.75 in pilot.

Could you make something like this work? 504 Red DriveSaver Coupler | Globe 01-12-0130 (marinepartssource.com) Caleb #328

Pictures attached. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be a good alternative off the shelf solutions. I've spoken to Farymann North America, Beta Marine, PYI inc, and others. The bolt pattern and

Hi Lee; Can you get the specific dimensions of the coupling you are trying to replace.? Then try either

Do you have a picture? I have some parts laying around.? On Mon, Jul 10, 2023 at 13:14, lm53187<muellerl@...> wrote: Hi, I'm looking for a shaft coupling for a farymann a30. It's a rubber

Hi, I'm looking for a shaft coupling for a farymann a30. It's a rubber component about 3 inches long that connects between the transmission and prop shaft. The Farymann was a common engine on the

I work with alot of professional boat haulers. They are all mystified why civilians drive there boats hard against the winch post. As they put it. The winch post has a rubber bumper incase you over

Both come out. scottrosasco@...> wrote:

I just want to understand. The interior aluminum frame comes off and then I can take out and replace the plastic, or do both the interior and exterior aluminum frames need to be removed?

Normally you would do straight peices of stainles tubing between stanchions . Life line is straight from stanchion to stanchion. If you are doing a continuous pipe like a motor yacht then you need to

Debond will break down most adhesive caulk. But not silicone. Silicone is generally frownd apon because for future repairs, nothing sticks to it including new silicone. Bedit butyl tape is

Hey Peter, interested in the genoa. If you could send me your contact info, I can get in touch.

I just sold my Tartan 27 and have a used main sail cover, 14.6' long, 10", 16", and 42" wide and a genoa (135%) leach 32.5", foot 16', and luff 31.5" in fair condition.? I am asking $200, plus

We did ours about 15 years ago. Aluminum frames pried off pretty easily. Found it fairly simple: biggest surprise was that kerosene dissolved the grey goop sealant best. Ohio built boat: maybe there