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Painting topsides
Our hull is pretty banged up, but otherwise the boat is in good shape. Today I repainted the boot stripe and as I pulled off the low-tack ?tape bits of gel coat came off with the tape! What do I need to do to the hull to get her paintable? I can imagine rolling and tipping an enamel paint and touching her up every few years. Any advice appreciated.?
Marty ¡°±Ê´Ç²õ±ð¾±»å´Ç²Ô¡± Bowen Island BC.? |
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Re: gooseneck toggle -- standard part or suggest custom fabrication shop?
Yeah, I'm up the creek from the San Francisco bay. There's more
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marine stuff out here than you can shake a stick at, and also more boats. Demand outstrips supply. Then up here, marine stuff competes with oil well drilling. Lots of places. Got one of the big outfitters on the phone and sent those two pics over and I'm waiting to hear back which keeps not happening. Googling "tuna tower", I had to scroll half way down the page before I think I found what you're talking about. On the really high-end boats, it's more yachty stuff than fishing stuff out here usually. I probably need to drive to Iowa, where I was born, and knock on shop doors. Asking around, someone is telling me "A small inverter tig that has frequency control does a great job of thin aluminum. It also does a pretty good job of brazing, and a _fantastic_ job of stainless. Welding SS is like smooshing toothpaste onto a surface." I don't know if that's true or not but I may be finding out. Experience so far has been limited to AC stick welding steel with results that are an abomination. Replacing the track, car, toogle, and boom end (tang? tab? tongue?) with whole new kit I guess is an option. Reluctant to just downsize the tongue to fit because the toggle seems undersized and it just absolutely blows stink all of the time up here. windy.com etc don't account for the slot effect on the water and are wrong by about half. Appreciate the thoughts. Still making calls and still appreciate leads. Cheers, -scott #93 On 0, Carl Damm <cfdamm@...> wrote:
So, it looks like your primary problem is the aluminum ob the boom is |
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Re: gooseneck toggle -- standard part or suggest custom fabrication shop?
Also a rigging shop, the whole aluminum goose neck may be standard, and most rigging shops have a good handle on custom fabrication in house or local.
Here we use Florida rigging in Riviera Beach or Mack Sails in Stuart -- Carl Damm DAMSELv 1976 #593 Stuart Fl |
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Re: gooseneck toggle -- standard part or suggest custom fabrication shop?
So, it looks like your primary problem is the aluminum ob the boom is failing.? Generally speaking, aluminum fabrication is less expensive in my experience. It may be easier to pull the end out of the boom and take the whole assembly to a aluminum fab shop.??
Do you have? any tuna tower builders or boat builders in your area. The boat builders might know who the good fab shops are. The work looks pretty straight forward. So you could probably mail it if you can't find local support.? Rig right is a wealth of knowledge and parts but very hard to have a conversation with in recent years.? -- Carl Damm DAMSELv 1976 #593 Stuart Fl |
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gooseneck toggle -- standard part or suggest custom fabrication shop?
Hello all,
I emailed Rig Rite and a local fabricator and haven't heard back yet. Don't know if there's a huge long wait, a moderate wait, or I won't hear from them at all so thought I'd ask. Often unless you contact places about a million dollar boat, they're too busy and not interested. So, anyone have any experience with a stainless steel fabrication shop? Or alternatively does anyone recognize a part that would fit here? The 0.80" tongue on the boom and the 1.55" high opening in the car with a 5/16" bolt centered 1/2" out are critical dimensions. Idea is to remove the badly machined and badly worn part of the tongue on the boom and bolt through the good stuff with a good fit. Appreciate any thoughts. Cheers, -scott hull #93, west coast Schock built |
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Atomic 4 Throttle and reversing gear shifter
EeBe4
Given an Atomic 4 with your T27, what is your setup for throttle and shifter? Mine has a shifter in the starboard wall of the cockpit and a small knob in the same "niche" with the choke knob in the forward wall. Are there not any shifter and throttle levers on the same tree against the cockpit walls? Seems odd as is. Considering replacing both cables given the age and thought they might be combined. Thanks- Eddie
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Re: Tartan 27 for sale in NJ
Hey Guys, I presently am offering Sea Gypsy (hull #453) for sail. The boat has a great running Atomic 4, new exhaust system with modern water lift muffler. Fuel pump, carberator and both engine cooling pumps have been replaced (engine has heat exchanger so raw water doesn't pump thru engine) new head, new cabin interior 2 part epoxy paint job, new back stay, bilge and domestic water pump. Boat has roller furler, genny, jib, spinacker and drifter, main sail has a rip and either needs repair or replacement ( Lee sails quoted me $1200.00 for new main, but I know used ones are available). Boat is on land at Weeks Yacht Yard in Patchogue ,Long Island, NY. I am asking $3500.00. If interested you can reach me at 631-514-1689 or email? bridgeway73@....?
On Friday, April 2, 2021, 12:19:11 PM EDT, aaronkuriloff <aaron.kuriloff@...> wrote:
Hi all, we¡¯ve moved and I can¡¯t continue my efforts to restore Moonshine. She¡¯s got a near-new Universal m-18 and redone chain plates, but there are soft spots in the cockpit and the interior is still pretty rough. Asking $3500.? Here¡¯s the craiglist post with some photos: |
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Tartan 27 for sale in NJ
Hi all, we¡¯ve moved and I can¡¯t continue my efforts to restore Moonshine. She¡¯s got a near-new Universal m-18 and redone chain plates, but there are soft spots in the cockpit and the interior is still pretty rough. Asking $3500.?
Here¡¯s the craiglist post with some photos: |
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Re: Cutlass Bearing Issue
Congratulations on your new boat!?
We also inherited a toxic dump in the bilge. It probably had not been cleaned in a generation. The best we could do is what others suggested
Lee and Traci #663 Dawn |
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Re: Cutlass Bearing Issue
When I cleaned my bilge I used Star brite Super Orange Citrus Bilge Cleaner and a wet-dry vac. I used used the cheap $25 bucket head shop-vac from home depot which fits on the 5 gallon buckets. I had to get some extension tubes so that it could reach the very bottom of the bilge. Also needed some scrub brushes with a long handle. - jeremy On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 1:43 PM SCOTT ROSASCO via <srosa25043=[email protected]> wrote: When we hauled our ¡°new to us¡± boat for the first time for winter storage, we noticed this oddity on the shaft. It appears to be the rubber part of the cutlass bearing, working its way out of the bearing. My understanding is these are attached to the metal sleeve and the whole sleeve was inserted into the strut. There is about an inch+ sticking out. Does anyone know how long the bearing is, or how much of the rubber is still inside the boat? I am aware of what would happen if the whole thing came out, so our short term solution is to cut that rubber piece off and attach the shaft zinc as close as possible to the strut to keep it from further escaping. Long term, can we replace the bearing ourselves? Can we pound or pull it out? Is there a set screw buried under bottom paint holding it in? Pictures enclosed. |
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Re: Cutlass Bearing Issue
To remove the cutlass bearing, you can carefully use a sawzall with metal cutting blade to cut a notch or two into the circumference, then collapse the metal into itself and pull it out. Just be careful when sawing radially outward so that you stop when you reach or nearly reach the full thickness of the metal.? Brent S/V LOLA T-27 #438 Cataumet, MA On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 9:13 PM aksjghkajshd <scott@...> wrote: Hi Scott, |
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Re: Cutlass Bearing Issue
Hi Scott,
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If I haven't already (it's been a looong year), welcome, and congratulations on the new-to-you sailboat. Deep Blue Yacht Supply seems to have a good selection of cutlass bearings: From that, 3-6". You can pull it yourself. Major hurdels are getting the prop clear of the rudder, the shaft out, then the bearing out. Do not use a "slide hammer" or any kind of hammer for any of those steps. Cracks around my abused prop tube were leaking, I had to haul out for that, and the repair is now no where near "new". A slide hammer can easily ruin your transmission too. A gear puller may be able to pull the prop off the shaft but if can clear the rudder (with some finagling), just leave it on the shaft. Removing the transmission coupler from the shaft is harder. I can dig up a link if you like, but the method for removing the shaft involves getting long bolts and a socket the same size as the shaft or so. You unbolt the coupler, remove the bolts, put the socket (which is only used to take up space to force the shaft out) in front of the shaft, put the longer bolts in, and start tightening them round-robin to force the shaft out. It's a huge pain. There are pullers for the cutlass bearing. You could probably fabricate something too. You want to pull outwards, pulling against the inner edge of the bronze tube body of the bearing. If you don't want to buy or fabricate something to do that, call around and find a mechanic that has one in your size. If shaft vibration is noticeable, putting it off would not be ideal. Otherwise can't say if blocking it with the zinc is a good idea. Likewise on the nasty bilge. My own finding was that there was no substitute for a little scrubbing. I used acetone and alcohol in various places when prepping surfaces (cleaning the bilge floors before putting more fiberglass over where someone put screws all the way through the fiberglass in the bottom of the bilge to screw a bilge pump down... one step forward, ten steps back... for example) but a strong soap detergent probably works as well. Letting it sit and soak helps. Because some scrubbing action is required, uneven places in the fiberglass won't clean up easily. A good assortment of brushes including toilet brushes helps. I saw one recommendation for steam cleaning to deal with that. Please don't pump overboard. The bilge pump discharge line can be re-routed to empty containers to go to hazard waste or whatever is recommend. I did a lot of wetvac'ing. Guess if you're on land now, not pumping overboard is the default. Help that helps! Cheers, -scott On 3/24/21, Scott Rosasco <scottrosasco@...> wrote:
?When we hauled our ¡°new to us¡± boat for the first time for winter |
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Re: Cutlass Bearing Issue
Having just read John Bailey's remarks on removing the old cutlass bearing I am reminded that the method he describes is exactly how we did it.? Cut the bearing with a Sawzall metal blade and peel it out.? Sounds easy enough.
Good luck.
Caleb D T27 #328 -----Original Message-----
From: John Bailey <john.bailey50@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Wed, Mar 24, 2021 3:37 pm Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Cutlass Bearing Issue Scott,
I replaced?Kiltie's?cutlass?about 6 years ago.
She did not have set screws, although I have heard that some T27's do. The rubber is bonded?to the?bearing and is at least?2" long. I would not restrict the water from getting into what is left of the bearing with?the zinc.
The easiest?way to remove it is of course first remove the shaft. Take a saws-all?and cut inside the bearing to just before?touching the shaft tube.
Then take a chisel and curl the bearing in. It should crack and get loose.?This should work even if you have set screws.
Now, inserting the new one can be a pain. With mine, even after using a brake cylinder?hone to clean the shaft tube to the point it was shinny, the new bearing greased up bearing did not want to go in . Even with a lot of pounding with a sledge with a piece of oak against?the bronze.
I ended?up putting ?a 3/4" threaded rod through the tube with washers?and nuts on the ends and pressing it in. This was a lot kinder to the old fiberglass. If you do have set screws, you should see where they are from inside the tube.
Good luck.
John
= > ¡Â
On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 1:43 PM SCOTT ROSASCO via <srosa25043=[email protected]> wrote:
When we hauled our ¡°new to us¡± boat for the first time for winter storage, we noticed this oddity on the shaft. It appears to be the rubber part of the cutlass bearing, working its way out of the bearing. My understanding is these are attached to the metal sleeve and the whole sleeve was inserted into the strut. There is about an inch+ sticking out. Does anyone know how long the bearing is, or how much of the rubber is still inside the boat? I am aware of what would happen if the whole thing came out, so our short term solution is to cut that rubber piece off and attach the shaft zinc as close as possible to the strut to keep it from further escaping. Long term, can we replace the bearing ourselves? Can we pound or pull it out? Is there a set screw buried under bottom paint holding it in? Pictures enclosed. |
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Re: Cutlass Bearing Issue
Hi Scott,
Welcome.
The cutlass bearing should be 4" long, inserted into the deadwood of the keel (there is no strut which is a metal thing that hangs down from the hull to hold the shaft that does not exist on a Tartan 27').? If you look up cutlass bearings you should be able to find a model called "BALE" which is just a code name given to a 4" bearing with a 1' ID shaft and probably 1-1/2" OD.??
The rubber from inside the bearing is not supposed to work it's way out of there as your pictures show.? The rubber helps form the seal around the shaft and without it, well, not so good a seal and your stuffing box could leak a bit more than usual.??
In the short term I think you should cut the rubber away and fasten a donut shaft zinc there which should help keep the rubber from coming completely out.? In the long term, you can replace the cutlass bearing yourself - we did it - it wasn't easy but we did it.? There may or may not be a set screw holding your cutlass bearing in place.? Ours did not have one.? You can't really pound the bearing out of there without destroying the surrounding area so you have to press it out.? This requires a bit of ingenuity and a length of "all thread" and various washers, bolts and cup wrenches.? You tighten the bolts to push the bearing out of its press fit.? First you have to get the shaft out of the way and we found this to be nearly impossible so we cut the old bronze shaft in half and removed each piece separately.? A new SS shaft was about $250.? We re-used our old shaft coupling but you might want to replace yours with a split shaft coupling which makes it easier to insert and remove.? I have some pictures from that effort:??
2nd question.? Bilge.
It sounds like your T27 was equipped with a diesel at one point, which is a good upgrade to the old Atomic 4.? The old Atomic 4 being a gasoline engine didn't stink so much since if gas leaked out anywhere it either flashed off or started a fire but the bilges are still pretty deep and narrow and will catch any spilled oil.? Diesel fuel smells much more distinctly than gasoline and is much less volatile so it won't evaporate.? I used to use a Bilge Boom gizmo which is about 2' long by maybe 4" circumference tube of absorbent material.? You let that float in the bilge water and it is supposed to pick up most of the fuel and oil.? Similarly they sell those oil-absorbent rags that are used for engine work.? These can be used to wipe up the perimeter of the bilge (what you can reach).??
You mentioned "emulsification" which reminded me that Dawn Dish Detergent (the blue stuff) is used as an emulsifying agent for diesel spills.? You might get a bottle of this for your boat.? Wipe down all interior surfaces and inside lockers and bilge.??
Finally, Raritan makes some cleaning products that are more bacterial based, such as "CP" and "KO"? (clean potty & kills odors).? I have used the "KO" liquid for both holding tank treatment as well as general cleanup and odor killing.? Using heavy detergents will kill the bacteria in these cleaners though so use one or the other, not both.
Baking Soda can also absorb odors as it does in your fridge.
Lastly, Practical Sailor must have done a comparison of bilge cleaners.? They are like the Consumer Reports for boating materials & practices.
Where are you keeping your boat and what hull # is it?
Good luck.
Caleb D T27 #328
-----Original Message-----
From: SCOTT ROSASCO via groups.io <srosa25043@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Wed, Mar 24, 2021 1:05 pm Subject: [T27Owners] Cutlass Bearing Issue When we hauled our ¡°new to us¡± boat for the first time for winter storage, we noticed this oddity on the shaft. It appears to be the rubber part of the cutlass bearing, working its way out of the bearing. My understanding is these are attached to the metal sleeve and the whole sleeve was inserted into the strut. There is about an inch+ sticking out. Does anyone know how long the bearing is, or how much of the rubber is still inside the boat? I am aware of what would happen if the whole thing came out, so our short term solution is to cut that rubber piece off and attach the shaft zinc as close as possible to the strut to keep it from further escaping. Long term, can we replace the bearing ourselves? Can we pound or pull it out? Is there a set screw buried under bottom paint holding it in? Pictures enclosed.
2nd question: Our bilge is a toxic waste dump of 50 years worth of old diesel and assorted other gunk. We have the ability to totally contain our bilge outflow. What would be the quickest and easiest cleaner or chemical or method to use to emulsify all the gunk and get it out? The smell of diesel is overwhelming. Our goal is that if we drop a sandwich in the bilge, we can pick it up and keep on eating.
Scott
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Re: Cutlass Bearing Issue
Scott, I replaced?Kiltie's?cutlass?about 6 years ago. She did not have set screws, although I have heard that some T27's do. The rubber is bonded?to the?bearing and is at least?2" long. I would not restrict the water from getting into what is left of the bearing with?the zinc. The easiest?way to remove it is of course first remove the shaft. Take a saws-all?and cut inside the bearing to just before?touching the shaft tube. Then take a chisel and curl the bearing in. It should crack and get loose.?This should work even if you have set screws. Now, inserting the new one can be a pain. With mine, even after using a brake cylinder?hone to clean the shaft tube to the point it was shinny, the new bearing greased up bearing did not want to go in . Even with a lot of pounding with a sledge with a piece of oak against?the bronze. I ended?up putting ?a 3/4" threaded rod through the tube with washers?and nuts on the ends and pressing it in. This was a lot kinder to the old fiberglass. If you do have set screws, you should see where they are from inside the tube. Good luck. John = > ¡Â On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 1:43 PM SCOTT ROSASCO via <srosa25043=[email protected]> wrote: When we hauled our ¡°new to us¡± boat for the first time for winter storage, we noticed this oddity on the shaft. It appears to be the rubber part of the cutlass bearing, working its way out of the bearing. My understanding is these are attached to the metal sleeve and the whole sleeve was inserted into the strut. There is about an inch+ sticking out. Does anyone know how long the bearing is, or how much of the rubber is still inside the boat? I am aware of what would happen if the whole thing came out, so our short term solution is to cut that rubber piece off and attach the shaft zinc as close as possible to the strut to keep it from further escaping. Long term, can we replace the bearing ourselves? Can we pound or pull it out? Is there a set screw buried under bottom paint holding it in? Pictures enclosed. |
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Cutlass Bearing Issue
When we hauled our ¡°new to us¡± boat for the first time for winter storage, we noticed this oddity on the shaft. It appears to be the rubber part of the cutlass bearing, working its way out of the bearing. My understanding is these are attached to the metal sleeve and the whole sleeve was inserted into the strut. There is about an inch+ sticking out. Does anyone know how long the bearing is, or how much of the rubber is still inside the boat? I am aware of what would happen if the whole thing came out, so our short term solution is to cut that rubber piece off and attach the shaft zinc as close as possible to the strut to keep it from further escaping. Long term, can we replace the bearing ourselves? Can we pound or pull it out? Is there a set screw buried under bottom paint holding it in? Pictures enclosed.
2nd question: Our bilge is a toxic waste dump of 50 years worth of old diesel and assorted other gunk. We have the ability to totally contain our bilge outflow. What would be the quickest and easiest cleaner or chemical or method to use to emulsify all the gunk and get it out? The smell of diesel is overwhelming. Our goal is that if we drop a sandwich in the bilge, we can pick it up and keep on eating. Scott |
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Cutlass Bearing Issue
?When we hauled our ¡°new to us¡± boat for the first time for winter storage, we noticed this oddity on the shaft. It appears to be the rubber part of the cutlass bearing, working its way out of the bearing. My understanding is these are attached to the metal sleeve and the whole sleeve was inserted into the strut. There is about an inch+ sticking out. Does anyone know how long the bearing is, or how much of the rubber is still inside the boat? I am aware of what would happen if the whole thing came out, so our short term solution is to cut that rubber piece off and attach the shaft zinc as close as possible to the strut to keep it from further escaping. Long term, can we replace the bearing ourselves? Can we pound or pull it out? Is there a set screw buried under bottom paint holding it in? Pictures enclosed. |
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Re: Boat for sale
Thanks, Robert Mel?
On Monday, March 15, 2021, 08:04:50 PM EDT, Robert Harvey <cswim093@...> wrote:
Yeah, I gave it back to Stu, you'd have to call him and make arrangements. If you have any questions about the boat, he'd be able to answer any. I'm sure you could go over and look at it. On Mon, Mar 15, 2021, 7:00 PM Mel Berry via <dmberry1961=[email protected]> wrote: Robert,? |
