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Thanks: I appreciate your insight. I think I am going to try the Wednesday night racing. Granted I have alot to learn and the magothy/annapolis crowd appears to be really competitive. I am really

I tend to agree with tartan27plee on this issue. I see no reason to run the jib halyard back to the cockpit at all. Our jib is on a Furlex RF and we raise the jib once a season and take it down only

We are in our second season of Weds. night racing at our club. The races are scored using a PHRF formula which generally helps us with our 240 rating. I have learned a lot about trimming and

Any words of advice on boat trim. I was out Wednesday night watching races and tried the course behind the last boats. What about the traveler for balancing the helm? What do you recomend for

I don't have a CDI on my Tartan, but I do have one on my ODay. It is an old reefing system and I just upgraded the drum. I didn't get the ball bearings and the system seems to turn just fine without

Any opinions about CDI furling systems. Bearings or no bearings etc. thanks again Armando Morell AM

AM, I have spoken to many sailing experters regarding this very topic, running the halyards aft. In general most people I've asked did not recommend it for these two main reasons: * You will have

Our 1967 Tartan is set up with the main halyard run back along the top of the cabin on the starboard side. There is a level controlled block there, through bolted on the roof. That has worked really

I am thinking about bringig the halyard back to the cockpit, also about a furling system and lazy jacks. any suggestions, recommendations, comments photos? thanks am

I have S/N 564, moved last year from Punta Gorda, Florida to Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia. It has taken me on a solo trip to the Bahammas, been raced and is rigged for single handing. Name is

FYI that's what the centerboard is for, to help trim the boat. At 12-14 knots you should be taking your first reef in the main,that's one big main sail. If you have weather helm your not tuned or

Thanks: I am using Cetol on some other outside pieces and it does work great. I was actually thinking about removing the toe-rail wood and installing something else, I have a cracked section that

While I love the look of oiled and varnished teak I find that the toe rail varnish breaks down quite fast requiring seasonal maintenance. I suggest you apply teak oil, rub with acetone and finish

I am re-finishig my exterior wood. Any info or suggestions about what to do with the toe rail. replacement information etc. Today I replaced the points with an ignitor system (magnetic pickup that

fyi, there are C/B prints at http://www.t-27.com/Facts.asp I haven't traced this chain of postings fully, so sorry if this is a repeat. --Bill Ackerman and some lead weight

fyi, I haven't been having any problems getting files off the website. --Bill Ackerman

tartan27plee, There was a discussion thread via the messages about centerboard replacement about a month or so ago. I am not sure if you can search the emails to find the feedback or if you just have

quotidian01 No problem, I have done a lot of research on T27 and will post more whenever I can. Just posted two more articles on T-27 as a good used boat.

Has anyone tried rebuilding a new the centerboard out of fiberglass and some lead weight inside?

I had no problems viewing the files you uploaded. I particularly liked the Atomic 4 FAQ article you posted so thanks for that. I am using a Mac laptop right now but I can still view the links I