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Rudder VIbration
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Ed
I have a vibration from the rudder when I get the Fish up to speeds
usually obtainable on fairly windy days. I would suspect that the vibration may be an indication of drag robbing speed from the boat. Has anyone else experienced this? Perhaps it's unique to my rudder design? Are there any sources of information as to the optimal design and dimensions of the daggerboar? Thanks to anyone who responds, obviously by the number of posts I have made I have a few minutes on my hands right now (that'll change shortly!). ;)> Cheers, Ed |
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Wayne Carney
Hi again Ed,
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Take a look at the Laser (I think) and Hobie Cat sites. They also use a thin aluminum rudder blade and I have seen some discussion about just such a vibration. Try www.thebeachcats.com and look for the archives of a eZine called "On The Wire". That E-magazine had a tech tips section every month that addressed such things. And, yes I agree that the vibration is inefficient flutter that creates drag, but unless you are racing I wouldn't be too concerned about that aspect. Wayne -----Original Message----- |
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David King
Hi,
I have the same vibration but only when pressing the boat realy hard,in my opinion the vibration is coming from the centre board as I can't feel any transmitted vibration in the tiller. I must confess that the vibration disapears just before a capsize (opps)on closer examination the reason for this is because I can sail with about a foot of centre board out of the water (I know not very efficient way to sail but you get a realy good work out just trying to keep it upright. may be this vibration is a design fault and they all do it. regards Dave |
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Wayne Carney
Hi Dave,
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You sure can get vibration from the daggerboard. There are some things you can do to reduce this. The leading and trailing edge can be shaped to reduce turbulence. I'll try and find an article about this. BTW, the "racing" (plastic-composite) daggerboard reduces this phenomena considerably. The down side to these boards is that they are expensive. IMHO the composite board is worth it though.... it's longer and has a better design all around. The other thing you can do is to line the daggerboard trunk with indoor/outdoor carpet. I use pieces of a rubber-backed door mat ($1.99 at Target). I placed a 1 1/2" wide strip at the fore and aft end of the trunk and a couple of 2" wide strips along either side. The carpet thickness was chosen to hold the daggerboard snuggly and reduce vibration while still allowing positioning without too much extra effort. It also helps protect the board and trunk at the leading and trailing corners where grounding damage occurs. If you want a real workout, install a hiking strap and then do your darnedest to "sail it flat". You'll get 6-pack abs and the rocket-ride of your life in one package. See a book called, the Sunfish Bible" for details on both the hiking strap installation and the technique of going really really fast. Wayne -----Original Message----- |
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What kind of adhesive do you use? And how often would you have to replace
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the carpet? Charles Wayne wrote: The other thing you can do is to line the daggerboard trunk with |
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Wayne Carney
Charles,
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I use contact cement. So far it has lasted over five years. Wayne -----Original Message----- |
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