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Subject: [sunfish_sailor] A couple concerns about repairs.

I now have 3 long and deep grooves in the gelcoat on the ridge that
runs the length of the hull, and a couple "chips" (could just be
gelcoat, as the fiber is visible but doesn't appear compromised)
around the daggerboard hole.

.... What are some indicators that repair is necessary for quality
purposes rather than aesthetics?

Since you say the grooves are deep and you have glass cloth exposed I'd say
you should repair the damage. Eventually water will get into the cloth and
promote delamination, so fixing the exposed areas is crucial.

You can gelcoat the damaged area or use one of the epoxy "system" repair
kits that's available. You might be able to get away with using fairing
compound where only the gelcoat is grooved. Whatever you do, the chips where
glass is exposed should be repaired with a polyester resin / milled glass
fiber mix or marine epoxy. Marine epoxy is less dense and less brittle than
fiberglass resin, it's preferred by nearly all the boat builders and repair
shops I know, but it's also more expensive. The choice is yours. Once the
chips are filled you can dremel out an overlapping 1/32" deep dimple over
the repair area and fill it with colored gelcoat or epoxy to match the hull
if looks are important.

The daggerboard trunk of a Sunfish is notorious for developing leaks. This
is probably due to grounding the daggerboard and stressing the trunk
sleeve/hull interface. If you have chips broken out in this area I recommend
fixing them immediately. I have scraped out the seam of every "fish" I've
owned and back-filled and smoothed it. The factory seam leaves a step that
is susceptible to edge chipping and subsequent water invasion. I build up a
taper that eliminates the right angle step.

Another thing you might consider once your repairs are complete is to line
the leading and trailing edge of the trunk with indoor/outdoor carpet. I use
strips of rubber (not foam rubber) fused carpet type door mat attached with
contact cement. This cushions the trunk from occasional thumps that ding
both the board and trunk and, if you get the thickness just right, gives the
daggreboard just enough friction to stay where you put it when you adjust it
for running before the wind or beaching. I mark my board so I know just
where it is too.

A word of caution. If you own one of the over priced (but not over rated)
"racing" daggerboards, don't make the trunk lining too snug. There has been
a case of someone pushing down on the board with their hand curled in the
"handle" [where else would you put it]. When the board dropped into place
the momentum sheered off the cheesy, hollow, cheap ass stops and the
sailor's hand was injured.

[stepping down off the soap box]

Also, one of the masts has what sounds like about a cup of water in
it. How do I get that out and keep it out?

Mast and spars have end caps which can be removed. The caps are held on with
roll pins or pop-rivets depending on model year and previous disassembly.
Either way the caps can be removed so the water can be drained. If you are
unfamiliar with these methods of attachment contact me and I can walk you
through removal.

I have sealed the mast and spars on all the Sun and Sailfish I have owned.


Wayne