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Small Car SVX Stainless Header won't fit.
Christopher
So, I ordered pretty much all of my conversion parts from Small Car Performance, including the stainless header. The header looks very nice and shiny. The only problem is I can't seem to get it to fit. The bolt holes on the header closest to the crossover pipe are too close together and no matter how hard I torque on it I can't get it on. I called Small Car and sent it back so they can repair or replace it. He calls me when he receives it and claims he is able to get it on a spare SVX motor they had lying around by himself!!! So, I figure "Hey I must be just a little wuss and need to try harder!"
Ok, so he sends it back to me. Same deal, no good; I am trying everything, put one side on then the other, front then back, even using my feet against the transmission and pulling... NOTHING! I then stop, go inside and using a ruler and camera, take meticulous measurements of the header bolt hole spacing, a bunch of pics send an email back to Small Car, asking him if the measurements I sent are withing specified parameters? He calls me back and says "There was a bad batch, and checked another one he had on the shelf." Then he says "I'll send you our display model. It has a dent but it should fit." I tell him that is fine, as long as it fits, I don't care about the dent. It gets here and I try for an hour and a half to get that thing on, but the same thing happens, the bolt holes on the header on the forward side (near the cross pipe) are too close! The measurements of the exhaust header bolt holes center to center from Van front to Van rear are: 21 7/8 inches 16 7/8 inches 22 inches 17 inches 22 1/4 inches The rear bolt holes line up fine (22 1/4) it is the rear bolt holes that seem to be too close together (21 7/8) I pulled my EG33 out of a perfectly good running SVX that I drove around with no smoking, overheating, or any other problems with the engine that only had 100k miles, so I am pretty sure the block and cylinder heads are fine (ie. not warped or misshaped). So, my question is this. Is there something different about my motor that would cause both of these headers to not fit?? My SVX was one of the first, manufactured in early 1991. Is it different in any way? or did I just happen to get TWO headers that don't fit in the SAME fashion? I am thinking about towing it down to an exhaust shop and having them try to put it on. All I have left to do before my first startup is finish up the wiring, install the charcoal canister and put the DAMN EXHAUST on! I am very frustrated right now! #$%* If anyone can help, I really need advice on this header issue. Thanks, Chris |
On Mar 19, 2012, at 10:02 PM, Christopher wrote:
I pulled my EG33 out of a perfectly good running SVX that I drove around with no smoking, overheating, or any other problems with the engine that only had 100k miles, so I am pretty sure the block and cylinder heads are fine (ie. not warped or misshaped).My suggestion is to get a refund from Small Car on the header that doesn't fit, that you've already paid for. Then, as you have said, take your van to a shop that can make a complete header that the exhaust system you have will bolt up to. Have them make it out of mild steel, then have that ceramic coated. Be sure to know that there are fabricators that have been making headers out of a lot of materials, on the internet, that can make a header for you. I'd suggest avoiding stainless. The really good SS (I think it's called 321) is VERY expensive and not a lot more durable than mild steel with the ceramic coating. An example of one of the online vendors finished product: I'd suggest talking with them about them or another vendor they recommend, making this same unit out of mild steel if they can/will. My experience with SS headers on both Subaru 2.2 and 3.0 is that they eventually crack in several places. Just my $0.02 Bob |
Chris:
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We had a similar experience with 3.3 headers. First set was way off. We exchanged that set for a second set which were also off but closer than the first set. It took a bit of wrangling but they were finally mated. It has been a couple of years and the van has been used sparingly but so far they have not cracked. Others have reported similar experiences with poor fit. Craig --- On Mon, 3/19/12, Robert Stevens <mtbiker62@...> wrote:
From: Robert Stevens <mtbiker62@...> Subject: Re: [subaruvanagon] Small Car SVX Stainless Header won't fit. To: subaruvanagon@... Date: Monday, March 19, 2012, 11:44 PM ? On Mar 19, 2012, at 10:02 PM, Christopher wrote: I pulled my EG33 out of a perfectly good running SVX that I drove around with no smoking, overheating, or any other problems with the engine that only had 100k miles, so I am pretty sure the block and cylinder heads are fine (ie. not warped or misshaped). So, my question is this. Is there something different about my motor that would cause both of these headers to not fit?? My SVX was one of the first, manufactured in early 1991. Is it different in any way? or did I just happen to get TWO headers that don't fit in the SAME fashion? I am thinking about towing it down to an exhaust shop and having them try to put it on. All I have left to do before my first startup is finish up the wiring, install the charcoal canister and put the DAMN EXHAUST on! I am very frustrated right now! #$%* If anyone can help, I really need advice on this header issue. Thanks, ChrisMy suggestion is to get a refund from Small Car on the header that doesn't fit, that you've already paid for. Then, as you have said, take your van to a shop that can make a complete header that the exhaust system you have will bolt up to. Have them make it out of mild steel, then have that ceramic coated. Be sure to know that there are fabricators that have been making headers out of a lot of materials, on the internet, that can make a header for you. I'd suggest avoiding stainless. The really good SS (I think it's called 321) is VERY expensive and not a lot more durable than mild steel with the ceramic coating. An example of one of the online vendors finished product: I'd suggest talking with them about them or another vendor they recommend, making this same unit out of mild steel if they can/will. My experience with SS headers on both Subaru 2.2 and 3.0 is that they eventually crack in several places. Just my $0.02 Bob [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
Christopher
Craig, thanks for the response. I think what I'll do is just tow it down to the muffler shop and have them wrangle with it after I get the rest of the van put together.
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Chris --- In subaruvanagon@..., Craig Morton <rangermorton1972@...> wrote:
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Hi,
I had the very same problem about 3 years ago. As much as I tried I could not get the on. I noticed that they were about 1 inch closer together on the far end then from the crossover end so I put them on a vise and carefully pulled until I got the desired length. They were still hard to get on but I was able to do it. I think when they were made they were not allowed to cool and may had actually warped. The headers did not last very long and I have since had a shop do a customer setup for me. _____ From: subaruvanagon@... [mailto:subaruvanagon@...] On Behalf Of Christopher Sent: Monday, March 19, 2012 9:02 PM To: subaruvanagon@... Subject: [subaruvanagon] Small Car SVX Stainless Header won't fit. So, I ordered pretty much all of my conversion parts from Small Car Performance, including the stainless header. The header looks very nice and shiny. The only problem is I can't seem to get it to fit. The bolt holes on the header closest to the crossover pipe are too close together and no matter how hard I torque on it I can't get it on. I called Small Car and sent it back so they can repair or replace it. He calls me when he receives it and claims he is able to get it on a spare SVX motor they had lying around by himself!!! So, I figure "Hey I must be just a little wuss and need to try harder!" Ok, so he sends it back to me. Same deal, no good; I am trying everything, put one side on then the other, front then back, even using my feet against the transmission and pulling... NOTHING! I then stop, go inside and using a ruler and camera, take meticulous measurements of the header bolt hole spacing, a bunch of pics send an email back to Small Car, asking him if the measurements I sent are withing specified parameters? He calls me back and says "There was a bad batch, and checked another one he had on the shelf." Then he says "I'll send you our display model. It has a dent but it should fit." I tell him that is fine, as long as it fits, I don't care about the dent. It gets here and I try for an hour and a half to get that thing on, but the same thing happens, the bolt holes on the header on the forward side (near the cross pipe) are too close! The measurements of the exhaust header bolt holes center to center from Van front to Van rear are: 21 7/8 inches 16 7/8 inches 22 inches 17 inches 22 1/4 inches The rear bolt holes line up fine (22 1/4) it is the rear bolt holes that seem to be too close together (21 7/8) I pulled my EG33 out of a perfectly good running SVX that I drove around with no smoking, overheating, or any other problems with the engine that only had 100k miles, so I am pretty sure the block and cylinder heads are fine (ie. not warped or misshaped). So, my question is this. Is there something different about my motor that would cause both of these headers to not fit?? My SVX was one of the first, manufactured in early 1991. Is it different in any way? or did I just happen to get TWO headers that don't fit in the SAME fashion? I am thinking about towing it down to an exhaust shop and having them try to put it on. All I have left to do before my first startup is finish up the wiring, install the charcoal canister and put the DAMN EXHAUST on! I am very frustrated right now! #$%* If anyone can help, I really need advice on this header issue. Thanks, Chris |
Christopher
Yeah, I just tried again tonight. I finally got the exhaust header to fit. Ended up using the engine hoist and a couple of straps to stretch it out on the crossover side with the open end secured with the rod it ships with. Then I was able to get the very tips of a couple of the bolts through the holes, then used a mallet to bang the rest on. At that point I had quit caring about damaging the threads of the bolts. I got it banged on enough to get the nuts started. And finally after much ado, SUCCESS!!!
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So, thanks for the advice everyone. I am close to starting this beast! I definitely believe they warped and misshaped after they were allowed to cool. --- In subaruvanagon@..., <wic@...> wrote:
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Scott Daniel - Turbovans
lol..
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of my sayings is ..":.when they take it out of the box, they expect it to fit. " As they should. On 3/20/2012 7:02 PM, Christopher wrote:
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