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EJ22 OBD-1: Strange Start Problem (Pt 4 - the finale)


 

FINALLY - I think I have figured it out....
A long post but I thought some of you might wish to read...

Background:
1987 Westfalia w/ 1994 OBD-1 EJ22/25 Frankenmotor w/?starting?issue;
- Normally the engine?starts?right up (just a few seconds of cranking)
- A few times now it has taken a long time?or wouldn't fire up at all
- Still cranked perfectly?normally (high torque starter running fast)
- Also, occasionally, when I turned the key to the 'Run' position and didn't go straight to 'Start', the CEL flashed On and Off repeatedly plus I heard the fuel pump relay clicking in the back

Latest update and final (I hope) diagnosis/fix:
- Main fuse to the ECU was burned.
- There is a 20A fuse in a dustproof?fuse holder feeding the ECU; in my van this is next to the ECU under the seat (some folks seem to put the two relays in the black terminal box in the engine compartment?)
- From outside all looked good; the top of the fuse also looked good (I checked this early on in my search)
- HOWEVER, inside, the fuse body and contacts were melted/blackened (the fuse hadn't blown it was just making a bad connection; I suspect it had come loose at some point)
- enough extra resistance to drop the supply to the ECU and that in turn caused the fuel pump relay to 'chatter' and drop out. No fuel pressure at START = No Engine Start.
- Replacing the fuse holder and fuse with a 'MAXI' version (more metal contact area) gives me NORMAL Starting/Running once more - At LAST!

How did I find this: I tried using a DVM and LED bulbs to probe power and signals around the ECU, relays, ignition switch etc. but I only really identified it using my oscilloscope; it was so transient and hard to find.

One?blind alley I took;
(1). fuel pressure collapsing rapidly after the fuel pump turned off (I powered the fuel pump direct and tee-d in a fuel pressure gauge)?
- it's supposed to remain?above 30 psi after 15 minutes: indicated to me a fuel leak/delivery issue. No hose leaks apparent
- I changed the fuel pump & filter - NO impact
- SO I thought this must be the fuel pressure regulator or leaky injectors; took them out, replaced them all. NO impact?
- Back to the fuel pump: 2nd replacement was good; now I got solid fuel pressure?(although incorrect - see my following post)
==> Two bad fuel pumps!! All part of my?luck!

(2). Other things I changed (unnecessarily as it seems...)
- new fuel pump and ignition relays
- new ignition switch
- swapped out the?ECU
- added a new major ground strap chassis to engine (previously?heavy duty cables battery to engine). Main battery voltage?~12.2V (and the engine cranked just fine)

FINALLY - a < $1 part seems to have failed (and I spent ~$600 on new parts and many hours to figure it out...)

Thanks for suggestions as I worked through this; hopefully my van is good again

Mike Hart
Paso Robles, CA


 

For crank/no starts my go/to is to connect the two green test connectors and turn the key to ON. Solenoids, relays should be clicking and fuel pump cycling. If not I go to the two power feed fuses to my Subaru harness (battery and ignition power) Usually a test light suffices and I check before and after the fuses and the fuses themselves. Often said you should replace the fuses anyway even if they look good. A multimeter might have helped you more and you might have caught the intermittent fault. In hindsight,be sure? or reasonably sure of your diagnosis before ordering parts especially expensive ones. Oh well, you have a box full of spare parts if you need one now. Try diagnosing it when everything works but it won't fire. No injector pulse or spark. Replace cam and crank sensors not it. Then it's your ECU.
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