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Crank Pulley Torque
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Hi Matt,
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Yes, you can over torque any bolt/stud. This will usually result in one or more of the following consequences: a) Nothing happens if only over torques slightly. b) You strip the threads on either the bolt or the hole. c) The bolt/stud stretches and possibly breaks. Tom Burlington ON --- In subaruvanagon@..., "Matt" <mattsewalson@...> wrote:
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Sure you can overtorque anything. Worst case scenario is that the
bolt snaps but not all the way off. The mechanic is not aware that the bolt is snapped. The driver operates the vehicle and during that operation the bolt dislodges and the crank pulley weasels its way off, taking a chunk of the timing belt cover with it. The alternator, power steering, and a/c belts fly asunder. The vehicle will continue to run on the power of the battery alone but will conk out before long. It'll be hard to steer and the a/c wont work. The crank bolt will have to be extracted and the pulley replaced (if you can find it). If you suspect the crank bolt is overtorqued, i'd suggest removal and inspection. Even replacement depending on how much it was overtorqued. Brent On Wed, Mar 28, 2012 at 5:32 AM, Matt <mattsewalson@...> wrote: Can one over tighten the crank pulley bolt and if so what's the worst case scenario? -- Brent Weide Portland, Oregon www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/ |
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So here's the deal. I got my motor and getting ready to do the timing belt, idlers, water pump and etc. While removing the crank pulley bolt I had a huge brain fart and gave it a few 1/4 turns the wrong way. Once I figured out I was being a dumb a$$ and started to turn the wrench he right way it came out with no problems. At no point did it feel like I stripped anything out and the threads on the crank pulley bolt look fine. I'm just a little concerned about the crank shaft and if this could have caused any major damage.
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Sorry for not giving more info in my first post but I was in a hurry this morning. Thanks, Matt --- In subaruvanagon@..., "Matt" <mattsewalson@...> wrote:
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Unless you're the incredible hulk using a 2 foot breaker bar - I wouldn't sweat it. The Subaru torque spec is around 100ftlbs (I believe) which is tighter than your lug / wheel nuts.
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--- In subaruvanagon@..., "Matt" <mattsewalson@...> wrote:
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Crank pulley bolt torque according to repair manual was only 72 ftlbs. I
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torque it to 120 ftlbs, making sure pulley stays put. Lug bolts/nuts 125 ftlbs Leon On 3/28/2012 10:23 AM, iwalklongtime wrote:
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Quite right - I forgot the vanagon wheel torque was so much higher than the cars (87 ft lbs)
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I guess it's all up to what was being used to "loosen" the bolt and how much force was exerted. --- In subaruvanagon@..., Leon Korkin <korkwood@...> wrote:
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Then my plan is to get a new crank pulley bolt and maybe a little lock tight.
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--- In subaruvanagon@..., "iwalklongtime" <sensical@...> wrote:
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Matt,
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The earlier Subaru specification for the torque (69 to 76 ft lbs)was far too low - the later manuals call for 120 ft lbs. I always use 120 ft lbs and never use lock tight at that torque. The lower torque value often resulted in loose crank pulley and damage to the crank shaft. Be sure to use the higher torque as Leon suggested. Tom Burlington ON --- In subaruvanagon@..., "Matt" <mattsewalson@...> wrote:
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Thanks,
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I planned on using the higher torque value. Just did the timing belt on my wife's 04 Impreza and the torque value was 130 ft lbs. in the Haynes manual. I also remember reading a discussion on the torque values and how it is listed to low in manuals. Is the lock tight, medium strength, not needed? I figure it wouldn't hurt since I don't plan on taking the crank pulley off for a while and definitely don't want it coming off during operation. Thanks for all the info, Matt --- In subaruvanagon@..., "Tom Shiels" <tom@...> wrote:
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realflighter2
The ONLY problem I have had with my Subaru installation is this bolt coming loose. When it does, the pulley does a number on the woodruff key and slot in the tip of the crankshaft that aligns the pulley and timing sprocket, and the timing sprocket (which normally justs slips on) is nearly impossible to remove. So lesson learned. Torque the piss out of it (¡or factory recommended setting, whichever comes first), a dab of locktite (obviously not the permanent type) and then I index marked the bolt and pulley with a yellow paint pencil line (like they use to mark parts at the junk yard). You can see the pulley and bolt from the rear license plate door, and every so often I will look in to make sure the bolt has not loosened.
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Gary Trovinger 1987 Syncro Westfalia SP (subaru powered) --- In subaruvanagon@..., "Matt" <mattsewalson@...> wrote:
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Scott Daniel - Turbovans
That's a great suggestion on marking it ..so you can see at a glance if
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it's moved. I use 'a little' lock-tite on them. I have taken apart thousands of things I lock-tited.. I've never found it to be that permanent at all really. and it is underdesigned some on the subaru. the pulley only goes down over the crank a short way. like a quarter inch or so .. not that good. On the waterboxer engine it's about and inch and an eighth or so ..it really is down over the end of the crank, not stuck on the end of it . On 3/30/2012 7:44 PM, realflighter2 wrote:
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Brent Weide
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