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Alternator Rebuild - comments and pics


 

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It was a process for sure. I purchased a “commonly failed items” kit from Maniac Electric online. The parts all fit perfectly. Splitting the alternator was a bit of an unknown and I damaged the first one I broke open so here are the steps.

Remove the 4 through bolts

Put alternator on stable something, I used a vice and clamped the one ear of the mounting tab

Tap the pulley side which I’ll call the front back and forth as it will twist without doing any damage to windings underneath

Once it’s freed up a little you’ll notice 4 spots where you can fit a flat head screwdriver in to pry it up. You can pry here but be careful as you can damage the winding or the gasket if yours has one(I had one with and one without). I had two screwdrivers opposite one another with slight pressure and then tapped on the mounting tabs with a soft mallet and eventually it will start to move. With one I put it pulley down and smashed it into the workbench holding the tabs, this destroyed the threads for the pulley so don’t do that. What you’re actually doing in this step is dislodging the lower bearing from the back housing. You could possibly also use a pulley puller on the pulley and tug on that. But there is no need to removed the pulley to get it apart. That said, the kit comes with two bearings, one mounts under the pulley so eventually you’ll have to remove it and it’s easier when assembled so you kind of have to decide which way you’re going.

Anyway to remove the pulley there are two opposite spots in the housing you can CAREFULLY insert screwdrivers or similar to “lock” it from spinning while you remove the pulley. I zapped it with the air gun and it came off pretty easily.

Ok so you’ve got it apart, now what. Well I bought a cheapo 3” gear puller to remove the rear bearing and that one was noisy so about to fail, and I replaced it by smacking the new one back on with the old one, cleaned up the shaft and lubed it slightly to aid with install. If you’re going to replace the slip rings (where the brushes ride) you would de solder that piece and remove it before you smack on the new rear bearing. Mine were ok so I cleaned them up gently with 1500 grit wet sand paper. And re used.?

The front bearing has a bearing carrier that is installed from the front under the pulley. You could possibly remove it leaving the pulley on, I didn’t as my screws were shot and I replaced them with stainless Allen head ones for future repair. The bearing isn’t a super tight fit, hence the carrier I guess. I used blue loctite on the stainless screws as they look like they’d strip out pretty easy so you can’t tighten them too much.?

I also used liquid electrical tape which I know is kind of hokey but I used it on spots on the windings that I dinged and could possibly become a bare surface and also around both sides of the middle portion where the housing sandwiches it.?

So now to replace the regulator. This sucked. You have to desolder the old one, and mine was a mess with way too much solder. I used solder wick to clean it up after, one came off easy and one was a mess. See photos. I used a very small panel screwdriver to gently pry on it while I was heating it up with the soldering iron, this worked well. The new one comes with a pin to hold in the brushes. There is a hole the pin lines up with on the rear housing so you can’t tighten assemble the entire thing and then remove the pin to release the brushes. I yelled “release the hounds” at this point as a triumphant thing but then realized I mis aligned the front and had to do it all again. When re soldering the new regulator make sure you do it with the rear housing screwed on as this will ensure it’s aligned properly. You’ll see what I mean.?

That’s about it. Note the front housing has the two holes, the threaded one is on its own and the plain hole lines up with the rear non threaded hole. If you screw this up and can’t figure out why it won’t mount like I did, simply remove the 4 bolts holding it all together and gently tap it around to line up. While holding your breath and praying, at least that’s was me.

Hope this helps someone, it’s worth noting that one was a Bosch rebuild and inside they did a pretty crap rebuild job, bare solder joints were all cracked and the rectifier plate was burned and melted. Not a lot of care and concern went into the rebuild. I have way more pictures if anyone wants them. I may make a pdf for myself for next time as I tend to forget the details?

John?


 

Wow. Your rebuild looks much better inside than mine. My bearings were okay so I simply (just kidding; nothing simple about it!) pulled it apart to give it an inspection and clean it up. I wish I had your tutorial before I did mine. Great write up.?
--
Warren
89 Westy?
88 Tintop
70 Westy


 

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Mine was also gross inside. Funny enough I had two and then cleaning up my shop today found a third so I just tore it apart. For the 50 bucks in parts it’s worth having a ready to go spare I think?


On Sun, Mar 2, 2025 at 10:41?AM SubieVanagon via groups.io <wklail@...> wrote:
Wow. Your rebuild looks much better inside than mine. My bearings were okay so I simply (just kidding; nothing simple about it!) pulled it apart to give it an inspection and clean it up. I wish I had your tutorial before I did mine. Great write up.?
--
Warren
89 Westy?
88 Tintop
70 Westy