开云体育

Hi all, have a 3.6 in my 89 Westy and ran a used engine for a while. Long story short, did several thousand miles on that engine with the cooling system working well. ?Recircs the heater coolant through a pressure tank to open the thermostat. ?Engine ran cool, no problems. ?

Just got around to rebuilding the engine (was always the plan) with new rings and bearings and had the heads planed and checked at a machine shop, valve train all well within spec.?

First start today and idled at 1200-1400 to get one heat cycle in and check the cooling system before driving. ?Warmed up normally then the coolant temp (monitored at the engine as have a LINK ECU) kept going to just over 100C (220F) when I shut it down. ?Bled the radiator again at this point. ?It kind of followed this pattern when I first installed the used engine.

Let it cool, added some coolant, fired it up and started driving to begin ring seating process and get the revs up to blow remaining bubbles through the system. ?Again warmed up relatively normally but temp kept increasing...shut it down at about 108-110C (230+F). ?Checked the radiator lines and both were cool including the main outputs from the engine at the engine! ?Room temp so literally no flow going to the rad. ?Bled the rad: few bubbles but then fresh coolant.

The system has a new radiator, new water pump, and all new hoses which has worked very well before. ?I installed a new (Subaru) thermostat but, now I look at it, I may have inadvertently installed the one which came with the engine originally. ?It was a Subaru part and I had no reason to believe it wasn't ok.

Does this sound like anything but a stuck shut thermostat to anyone? ?Is there anything I'm missing? ?I've already tested the thermostat in my parts box and it works perfectly so I will replace in the morning. ?Means draining the system: is there anything else I should check when I have it drained again? ?Didn't find any problems when installing the rebuilt engine but I'm worried there's something odd going on here.

Diagram of cooling system? Still have air bubble in the system. Have you opened the heater lines while running it hot? Parking it nose down on a good slope to cool it will have any air collect in the expansion tank, then top up the tank +overflow to max. There are pics of 6 cylinder cooling system diagrams in the files.

Posting #82534 has my cooling system diagram.

I filled at about 30 degrees nose down but didn't cool it that way...will try tomorrow after I change the thermostat. ?Did have heater lines open initially.

If your radiator is cold, then it’s air locked. Sometimes I can get the air to push thru squeezing the rubber rad hoses. The radiator drain is pointed up on mine and that’s where I bleed it. Hopefully, you can try this before replacing the t stat.?

Solved! ?I have 4 hose clamps, could only find 3 this morning getting ready to change out thermostat. ?One on rad out hose. ?Don't remember putting it on. ?I try to keep track of my tools, didn't this time. ?Color me dumb!!!

Topped off coolant, went for a drive, never got above 96C (205F). ?No harm done this time but, man, sometimes I wonder...

I had serviced my front heater recently and my van always ran hot after that. I had to add a bleeder fitting to the top line of the heater to let out a bunch of air. No amount of raising the front or rear was doing the trick. Once I installed this and bled the heater, the temperature stays rock solid in the middle with my SVX conversion, even running at 80+ mph for 700 miles each way to Idaho and back last weekend.