Specifications for H20 Plumbing??

Warren Chapman

Could some of you who have completed the job post some diagrams and a 
list of specifications for the plumbing which would include the pipe 
lengths, sizes, bends, rubber sections, clamps, etc, required so  
other installers can know what to purchase or make (or have made). 

Does each install have to be "custom fitted". 

KEP's instructions are pretty vague about this.  It seems that the 
plumbing specifications could be standardized and included as a part 
of the kit. Seems strange that every installation must be a custom 
design from scratch. 

Comments from KEP??????

Jay Gardner used aluminum tubing for his two conversions. Maybe he 
could comment on what it was like to work with.

Warren Chapman

Ron Bloomquist

#259

Hi Warren,

You ask?

Could some of you who have completed the job post some diagrams and a
list of specifications for the plumbing which would include the pipe
lengths, sizes, bends, rubber sections, clamps, etc, required so
other installers can know what to purchase or make (or have made).

Does each install have to be "custom fitted".

<snip>

I guess we are all different.

I like to have a junk pile handy and when I go to make something I root
through my junk pile to see what will work; what will fit.  I think it is
fun to make stuff.  With Hobert's minimal coolant diagram I got headed in
the right direction.  With the engine mounted in place I could see and
measure approximately how long my outlet pipe would have to be before I
could make the bend (90) and head towards the burp tank T and then the
radiator.   I could see and measure how long the stub would have to be
before I made the 90 on the inlet pipe to rise up and then make the next 90
to head for the radiator.  I connected these various bits and pieces and got
it all set up, then put marks on the fittings so I could save their
alignment to each other; then removed the pipes from the Vanagon and
soldered it.

As for the radiator hose connections to engine and Vanagon hard lines it was
back to my "junk pile" of left over waterboxer hoses and looking at the
various 90's and the size of the hoses (some ends are larger than others).
Everything needed was right there except for the connection from the Subaru
outlet to the pipe across the rear of the Vanagon.  That requires more than
a 90 degree turn, and so...  At my local FLAPS, by going through their
assortment I found the right bend (almost) and size.  NAPA  708  780?(Please
confirm Eddie).  Anyway, this hose has the spring inside which keeps it from
folding in half and cutting down coolant flow.  Perfect!

Anyway, all this to say...  I enjoy tinkering and figuring out stuff.
(Raised on a farm in Nebraska.)

I am sure that over time we will be able to generate facts and documents and
actual part numbers but to me....  some of the mystery will be loss in the
process and I like a good mystery.

I know.  I know.  Others rather git it and go!!

As for copper pipes being the death of our conversions....  I don't think
so.  We are using antifreeze that works with dissimilar metals for coolant.
Not salt water.

Just my .02 cents worth.

Ron

Ed McKinley

#262

?NAPA hose part number is 708.

Ron Bloomquist wrote:

Show quoted text

Hi Warren,
As for the radiator hose connections to engine and Vanagon hard lines it was back to my "junk pile" of left over waterboxer hoses and looking at the various 90's and the size of the hoses (some ends are larger than others). Everything needed was right there except for the connection from the Subaru outlet to the pipe across the rear of the Vanagon.? That requires more than
a 90 degree turn, and so...? At my local FLAPS, by going through their assortment I found the right bend (almost) and size.? NAPA? 708? 780?(Please confirm Eddie).? Anyway, this hose has the spring inside which keeps it from folding in half and cutting down coolant flow.? Perfect!
?

#285

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "Warren Chapman" <tallsound@m...> 
wrote:
Could some of you who have completed the job post some diagrams and a 
list of specifications for the plumbing which would include thepipe 
lengths, sizes, bends, rubber sections, clamps, etc, required so  
other installers can know what to purchase or make (or have made). I don't have specific info such as you requested, but I appear to
have 
done one thing differently than those who have posted pictures, and 
toss it out for your consideration.

I notice Ron, Tom and others who have posted pictures have used the 
plastic VW connectors at the front right of the engine compartment 
when connecting the plumbing.  I took the liberty of removing those 
connections, as well as a bit of the sheet metal in that area.  (I 
made a few relief cuts with a hack saw blade and folded it up and 
forward.  It looks fine.)  As a result, I was able to connect my new 
plumbing directly into the long 1 1/4" (I think) plastic pipes that 
run from the radiator to back near the engine compartment.  I just 
used a short piece of rubber hose on each.  This allowed me to keep 
the lower inlet line down and out of the way of the heater hoses,
etc. 
 As a result, I didn't need to cut off  the heater hose connections
on 
the engine as KEP says will be required.  

I don't know if it's related, but I didn't experience any of the 
horribles others describe when bleeding the cooling system.  I took 
a few extra precautions when filling the system (e.g., I connected 
everything but one heater hose and then filled until the coolant 
came out of the heater outled on the engine, then I plugged that and 
filled until it came out of the hose running from the heater core)
and 
bled it carefully using the KEP bleeder system before I started it, 
but it never overheated at all.  

I'm sure others will tell us if there is a problem with this 
approach.  I'll try to take some pictures and post them somewhere 
sometime, but I haven't yet advanced to the world of digital cameras. 
 (And to be honest, it may take a while.  I don't even have a cell 
phone yet.)  But in the mean time, Warren you're welcome to come to 
Oakland sometime and take a look at how I approached the plumbing if 
you're interested.  You can even measure things if you want.

Mark

Darrell Boehler

#287

Hi Mark,
    We did the plumbing on our 86  similar to what you are describing. We
ran  copper pipes forward along the right side frame to within 6 to 8 inches
of the long plastic pipes and then used 1.25 inch hose from napa, the hose
came in 3 foot length and was some heavy stuff used mostly for industrial
applications and heavy trucks.
Darrell

Show quoted text

----- Original Message -----
From: <johnsom3@...>
To: <subaruvanagon@...>
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 1:54 PM
Subject: [subaruvanagon] Re: Specifications for H20 Plumbing??

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "Warren Chapman" <tallsound@m...>
wrote:
Could some of you who have completed the job post some diagrams anda
list of specifications for the plumbing which would include thepipe
lengths, sizes, bends, rubber sections, clamps, etc, required so
other installers can know what to purchase or make (or have made).I don't have specific info such as you requested, but I appear to
have
done one thing differently than those who have posted pictures, and
toss it out for your consideration.

I notice Ron, Tom and others who have posted pictures have used the
plastic VW connectors at the front right of the engine compartment
when connecting the plumbing.  I took the liberty of removing those
connections, as well as a bit of the sheet metal in that area.  (I
made a few relief cuts with a hack saw blade and folded it up and
forward.  It looks fine.)  As a result, I was able to connect my new
plumbing directly into the long 1 1/4" (I think) plastic pipes that
run from the radiator to back near the engine compartment.  I just
used a short piece of rubber hose on each.  This allowed me to keep
the lower inlet line down and out of the way of the heater hoses,
etc.
 As a result, I didn't need to cut off  the heater hose connections
on
the engine as KEP says will be required.

I don't know if it's related, but I didn't experience any of the
horribles others describe when bleeding the cooling system.  I took
a few extra precautions when filling the system (e.g., I connected
everything but one heater hose and then filled until the coolant
came out of the heater outled on the engine, then I plugged that and
filled until it came out of the hose running from the heater core)
and
bled it carefully using the KEP bleeder system before I started it,
but it never overheated at all.

I'm sure others will tell us if there is a problem with this
approach.  I'll try to take some pictures and post them somewhere
sometime, but I haven't yet advanced to the world of digital cameras.
 (And to be honest, it may take a while.  I don't even have a cell
phone yet.)  But in the mean time, Warren you're welcome to come to
Oakland sometime and take a look at how I approached the plumbing if
you're interested.  You can even measure things if you want.

Mark

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Richard Myers

#302

johnsom3@... wrote:

I don't have specific info such as you requested, but I appear to
have
done one thing differently than those who have posted pictures, and
toss it out for your consideration.

I notice Ron, Tom and others who have posted pictures have used the
plastic VW connectors at the front right of the engine compartment
when connecting the plumbing.  I took the liberty of removing those
connections, as well as a bit of the sheet metal in that area.  (I
made a few relief cuts with a hack saw blade and folded it up and
forward.  It looks fine.)  As a result, I was able to connect my new
plumbing directly into the long 1 1/4" (I think) plastic pipes that
run from the radiator to back near the engine compartment.  I just
used a short piece of rubber hose on each.  This allowed me to keep
the lower inlet line down and out of the way of the heater hoses,
etc.
 As a result, I didn't need to cut off  the heater hose connections
on
the engine as KEP says will be required.
Sounds good!  One note, Tom, Ron, and Eddie have '84-'85 vans which were
plumbed somewhat differently than '86 and up.  The newer vans don't have
plastic pipes busting through to the engine compartment.

Dick

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Specifications for H20 Plumbing??