You’re going to need to spin the engine to distribute oil to the cylinder walls before they can sustain compression.?
I would start by pulling the plugs and squirting some oil into the cylinders to reduce dry ring scraping to a minimum.?
You might find that the oil rings have sludged up by sitting in evaporating oil for so long.?
Only one way to find out! ??
Jake
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Crescent Beach, BC
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1984 GL 1.9 WBX
1986 Westy Weekender with 2000 2.5 SOHC Subaru, 5 speed transaxle & PosiTrac Differential
Try a leak down test instead. (Amazon, kits for ~$40) No need for starters or transmissions, just a socket to turn the crankshaft. You will need an air compressor for this and some knowledge of TDC (top dead center) and the firing order (you can complete
this test in a single rotation of the crank.) If you do get a leak, a mechanics stethoscope (Amazon, $10-15) can pinpoint the air leak you will definitely be able to hear
-Brian
I have an engine (1990-94) engine that has not been run in about 6 years.? It was in a previous bus of mine that had deep, deep rust and I took off the road.? Unfortunately I didn't fog the engine or anything like that since I thought it would only be
off the road for a little while....but here we are.? ?
?
I'd now like to put the engine into my other bus but I'd like to make sure it is still a viable engine.
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What is the minimum setup I need to do an effective compression test?
?
I have a spare transmission/starter etc.? I was planning to bolt that to the engine, hook the starter up to a battery, with a start switch, and see what is what.? ?I think I also have just a bellhousing kicking around...?
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Is that enough?
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Anything i can do to the engine at this point to increase its odds of returning to healthy service?
