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Suggestions for quickly setting accurate angles on the compound?

Rogan Creswick All Messages By This Member #108302 I have a 10k (light 10), and I'd like to cut a few machine tapers (e.g. JT33) and I have a keyless chuck I'd like to repair after it's internal taper was messed up by a similarly bad arbor. In any case, I want to cut accurate angles, and I do not have a taper attachment. Tom Lipton has a great video series with a few options, but the best requires using a sine bar that's referencing a surface that's parallel with the compound travel, but the only possible surface on my compound is the machined T-slot for the tool post, and that's (at best) perpendicular (and I have doubts about how accurately it was made wrt the dovetails). Tom's video is here:?? Does anyone here have suggestions for doing this? Some ideas: (A) I could mount a parallel in a tool holder, indicate that to be parallel to the compound travel, then mount a sine bar to that reference and indicate the?sine bar.? That's more work than I'd really like to put in every time I do this, but at least it's non-destructive. (B) I have a mill & surface grinder - I could probably machine a flat on the side of the compound that's parallel with the dovetails.? I don't recall how much material there is to remove there, though, and that would probably be on the "front" side, rather than the back (in order to avoid the gib screws), which would make it slightly more difficult to indicate. (C) ??? Maybe there's a casting kit or something for a new compound that has a more functional design? (D) I suppose I could fabricate a new compound, and re-use the screw, nut, and other hardware. (E) Maybe I could place some pin holes in the top of the compound at key locations, then pull the toolpost and set a sine bar?+ parallel against those... The challenge here I think is ensuring that they are aligned properly, since they're on the opposite side of the casting from the feature I'd need to indicate on the mill (the dovetails?) Anyway, I'd like to see how other folks have solved this. Thanks! --Rogan
William Nelson All Messages By This Member #108304 Watch this Joe Pie video. I've used this on my 10k a bunch of times. He explains how extremely accurate this technique can be. ? https://m.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1028&v=qwMX63_bPAA&embeds_referring_euri=https%3A%2F%2Fduckduckgo.com%2F -- Bill From Socal
Rogan Creswick All Messages By This Member #108305 Thanks! That looks like a great way to set an angle. toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Sun, Jul 21, 2024 at 6:50?AM William Nelson via <wnnelson=[email protected]> wrote: Watch this Joe Pie video. I've used this on my 10k a bunch of times. He explains how extremely accurate this technique can be. ? -- Bill From Socal
William Nelson All Messages By This Member #108306 You're welcome. Until I saw that video it was always a challenge to set accurate angles, now it's so much easier. The precision you can achieve is mind boggling to me. -- Bill From Socal
Al MacDonald All Messages By This Member #108307 开云体育 Joe Pie is always a wealth of information. although sometimes I can’t keep up with him :-). ?If you are trying to turn a “standard” taper like JT33 or any of the MT series, I’ve set an item with the taper I want in my lathe (between centers) and adjusted the compound angle so a dial indicator on the compound stays in the same position as you move the compound forward. ?Once the compound is set you remove the setup piece and chuck whatever you like in the lathe, and machine an inner/outer taper in any material you like. ?I use the same process with the swivelling table of my tool and cutter grinder to clean up any surface damage, removing .001 or .002”. ?Cheers, ?al. toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Jul 20, 2024, at 22:31, Rogan Creswick via <creswick@...> wrote: I have a 10k (light 10), and I'd like to cut a few machine tapers (e.g. JT33) and I have a keyless chuck I'd like to repair after it's internal taper was messed up by a similarly bad arbor. In any case, I want to cut accurate angles, and I do not have a taper attachment. Tom Lipton has a great video series with a few options, but the best requires using a sine bar that's referencing a surface that's parallel with the compound travel, but the only possible surface on my compound is the machined T-slot for the tool post, and that's (at best) perpendicular (and I have doubts about how accurately it was made wrt the dovetails). Tom's video is here:?? Does anyone here have suggestions for doing this? Some ideas: (A) I could mount a parallel in a tool holder, indicate that to be parallel to the compound travel, then mount a sine bar to that reference and indicate the?sine bar.? That's more work than I'd really like to put in every time I do this, but at least it's non-destructive. (B) I have a mill & surface grinder - I could probably machine a flat on the side of the compound that's parallel with the dovetails.? I don't recall how much material there is to remove there, though, and that would probably be on the "front" side, rather than the back (in order to avoid the gib screws), which would make it slightly more difficult to indicate. (C) ??? Maybe there's a casting kit or something for a new compound that has a more functional design? (D) I suppose I could fabricate a new compound, and re-use the screw, nut, and other hardware. (E) Maybe I could place some pin holes in the top of the compound at key locations, then pull the toolpost and set a sine bar?+ parallel against those... The challenge here I think is ensuring that they are aligned properly, since they're on the opposite side of the casting from the feature I'd need to indicate on the mill (the dovetails?) Anyway, I'd like to see how other folks have solved this. Thanks! --Rogan

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