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New 16" & Rigging


 

Hi all, expect to be picking it up on Sunday, with a drop deck trailer. I have a 10EE, so not my 1st big lathe move, but the pedestal is a new challenge. Initial questions.
Is there a toe jack cut-out on the inside of the pedestal?
What diameter are the base and feet holes?
I've guesstimated the pedestal width ~ 20". Is this about right?
?
I am planning on a "As shipped by SB" type pallet and KISS pipe rollers as the floor is smooth. Think I need 4 X 4" runners or would two 2" X 12" X 9' be sufficient?
?
I don't really like the ~ 30"? narrow, not sure which is more scary, 4" high and ~40" wide, or stay only 2" high. Another option is I can easily notch the runners to drop the height to lower my pucker factor.
?
I have a toe jack, engine hoist for a safety, and pallet jack. The 10EE pallet I made was 4X6 with 2X12" cross pieces. The 6" height let me get the pallet jack under it but that was done to get it off the trailer after loading it with a lift. I did have to work the center of gravity by shifting one of the center boards to the toe of the tines. Just went very slow. But the SB has no where near the base mass of the 10EE, hence my caution. Other ideas/suggestions are welcome!
?
TIA
?
Ron


 

What you need is a few bodies and simple basic equipment. ?Our 14.5" (1943 build date) was dragged out of a derelict garage using a pull lift & slings. ?We found a couple of old doors & bits of timber on site to slide it on, & managed to get it onto my car trailer (the car at that time was a Peugeot 306 Diesel estate and certainly knew it had a load behind it! ?Said load included a bucket full of tooling too heavy to lift, 2 chucks, faceplate...). ?On arrival at the railway, the trailer was backed into the shed, under the gantry crane. ?The crane only covers part of the shed, so it had to move onwards on lengths of tube (old boiler tubes) used as rollers, persuaded by a crow bar. ?Need plenty of spare rollers to keep switching from back to front. ?The secret is take your time and do it gently and in small stages. ?You'll get the hang of steering it. ?See attached.

?

If we hadn't had the crane and had to unload it manually, that would have been the most risky part. ?Think I'd have put the pull lift on again to control the descent and slid it down some lengths of rail or similar.

?

Yes, the pedestals include cut outs for a toe jack or long crow bar. ?Either suffices. ?Sorry, can't advise the sizes of the holes for the levelling screws. ?My money would be on something UNC (uncommon in our works). ?

?

Since I can see myself in this photo, I think it was supplied by Simon Waller.

?

Eddie

?

------ Original Message ------
From: ron.kellis@...
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, February 14th 2025, 16:14
Subject: [SouthBendLathe] New 16" & Rigging
?

Hi all, expect to be picking it up on Sunday, with a drop deck trailer. I have a 10EE, so not my 1st big lathe move, but the pedestal is a new challenge. Initial questions.
Is there a toe jack cut-out on the inside of the pedestal?
What diameter are the base and feet holes?
I've guesstimated the pedestal width ~ 20". Is this about right?
?
I am planning on a "As shipped by SB" type pallet and KISS pipe rollers as the floor is smooth. Think I need 4 X 4" runners or would two 2" X 12" X 9' be sufficient?
?
I don't really like the ~ 30"? narrow, not sure which is more scary, 4" high and ~40" wide, or stay only 2" high. Another option is I can easily notch the runners to drop the height to lower my pucker factor.
?
I have a toe jack, engine hoist for a safety, and pallet jack. The 10EE pallet I made was 4X6 with 2X12" cross pieces. The 6" height let me get the pallet jack under it but that was done to get it off the trailer after loading it with a lift. I did have to work the center of gravity by shifting one of the center boards to the toe of the tines. Just went very slow. But the SB has no where near the base mass of the 10EE, hence my caution. Other ideas/suggestions are welcome!
?
TIA
?
Ron


 

I have a South Bend 16 with the 12ft bed length option.? I think the model is a 117H.? I moved it to my shop on a 16' utility trailer.? The previous?owner bolted it to a shipping frame made of 2"x4"x1/2" rectangular?tubing?to prevent the long bed from sagging, twisting and breaking the casting. It slid into my trailer very easily using pipe rollers and a pair of cable hoists.? We also had two large helpers for?additional muscle power.

At my shop, I had to unload the lathe?and shift it around my shop by myself.? I do have a shop built A-frame that is wide enough to straddle?my trailer and has the chain hoist trolly at 12' off the floor.? I also had a piece of 6" scrap I-beam left over from bracing a sagging ceiling in my house after the previous owner removed a load bearing wall.? I drilled holes in the beam and used it as a spreader to lift the lathe up and drive the trailer out from under the lathe, then lower it to the concrete floor.? I then used pipe rollers, cable hoists and farm jacks to move the lathe 40' across the shop floor to where?it still resides. I was a bit nervous when I picked it up with a pair of engine cranes to remove the transport frame from the pedestal and two support legs.?

My 16 came with a telescopic steady rest, a telescopic follower rest, taper attachment, 5C collet closer, a 12" 4-jaw, 8" 3-jaw and a good assortment of older Armstrong tool holders, lantern tool post and a good collection of centers. Plus some other fiddly bits. I run it with a VFD and modified the old mount for the drum switch to hold a 22mm pushbutton station to control the VFD.

James R

On Fri, Feb 14, 2025 at 12:40?PM eddie.draper@... via <eddie.draper=[email protected]> wrote:

What you need is a few bodies and simple basic equipment.? Our 14.5" (1943 build date) was dragged out of a derelict garage using a pull lift & slings.? We found a couple of old doors & bits of timber on site to slide it on, & managed to get it onto my car trailer (the car at that time was a Peugeot 306 Diesel estate and certainly knew it had a load behind it!? Said load included a bucket full of tooling too heavy to lift, 2 chucks, faceplate...).? On arrival at the railway, the trailer was backed into the shed, under the gantry crane.? The crane only covers part of the shed, so it had to move onwards on lengths of tube (old boiler tubes) used as rollers, persuaded by a crow bar.? Need plenty of spare rollers to keep switching from back to front.? The secret is take your time and do it gently and in small stages.? You'll get the hang of steering it.? See attached.

?

If we hadn't had the crane and had to unload it manually, that would have been the most risky part.? Think I'd have put the pull lift on again to control the descent and slid it down some lengths of rail or similar.

?

Yes, the pedestals include cut outs for a toe jack or long crow bar.? Either suffices.? Sorry, can't advise the sizes of the holes for the levelling screws.? My money would be on something UNC (uncommon in our works). ?

?

Since I can see myself in this photo, I think it was supplied by Simon Waller.

?

Eddie

?

------ Original Message ------
From: ron.kellis=[email protected]
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, February 14th 2025, 16:14
Subject: [SouthBendLathe] New 16" & Rigging
?

Hi all, expect to be picking it up on Sunday, with a drop deck trailer. I have a 10EE, so not my 1st big lathe move, but the pedestal is a new challenge. Initial questions.
Is there a toe jack cut-out on the inside of the pedestal?
What diameter are the base and feet holes?
I've guesstimated the pedestal width ~ 20". Is this about right?
?
I am planning on a "As shipped by SB" type pallet and KISS pipe rollers as the floor is smooth. Think I need 4 X 4" runners or would two 2" X 12" X 9' be sufficient?
?
I don't really like the ~ 30"? narrow, not sure which is more scary, 4" high and ~40" wide, or stay only 2" high. Another option is I can easily notch the runners to drop the height to lower my pucker factor.
?
I have a toe jack, engine hoist for a safety, and pallet jack. The 10EE pallet I made was 4X6 with 2X12" cross pieces. The 6" height let me get the pallet jack under it but that was done to get it off the trailer after loading it with a lift. I did have to work the center of gravity by shifting one of the center boards to the toe of the tines. Just went very slow. But the SB has no where near the base mass of the 10EE, hence my caution. Other ideas/suggestions are welcome!
?
TIA
?
Ron


 

开云体育

If ya have to lift it with a engine hoist? or anything for that matter make sure ya put a tag-line on the lathe . That line can be one of yer best friends day of move .

Good luck , pic's or it didn't happen

be careful

animal

On 2/14/25 4:36 PM, James Rice via groups.io wrote:

I have a South Bend 16 with the 12ft bed length option.? I think the model is a 117H.? I moved it to my shop on a 16' utility trailer.? The previous?owner bolted it to a shipping frame made of 2"x4"x1/2" rectangular?tubing?to prevent the long bed from sagging, twisting and breaking the casting. It slid into my trailer very easily using pipe rollers and a pair of cable hoists.? We also had two large helpers for?additional muscle power.

At my shop, I had to unload the lathe?and shift it around my shop by myself.? I do have a shop built A-frame that is wide enough to straddle?my trailer and has the chain hoist trolly at 12' off the floor.? I also had a piece of 6" scrap I-beam left over from bracing a sagging ceiling in my house after the previous owner removed a load bearing wall.? I drilled holes in the beam and used it as a spreader to lift the lathe up and drive the trailer out from under the lathe, then lower it to the concrete floor.? I then used pipe rollers, cable hoists and farm jacks to move the lathe 40' across the shop floor to where?it still resides. I was a bit nervous when I picked it up with a pair of engine cranes to remove the transport frame from the pedestal and two support legs.?

My 16 came with a telescopic steady rest, a telescopic follower rest, taper attachment, 5C collet closer, a 12" 4-jaw, 8" 3-jaw and a good assortment of older Armstrong tool holders, lantern tool post and a good collection of centers. Plus some other fiddly bits. I run it with a VFD and modified the old mount for the drum switch to hold a 22mm pushbutton station to control the VFD.

James R

On Fri, Feb 14, 2025 at 12:40?PM eddie.draper@... via <eddie.draper=[email protected]> wrote:

What you need is a few bodies and simple basic equipment.? Our 14.5" (1943 build date) was dragged out of a derelict garage using a pull lift & slings.? We found a couple of old doors & bits of timber on site to slide it on, & managed to get it onto my car trailer (the car at that time was a Peugeot 306 Diesel estate and certainly knew it had a load behind it!? Said load included a bucket full of tooling too heavy to lift, 2 chucks, faceplate...).? On arrival at the railway, the trailer was backed into the shed, under the gantry crane.? The crane only covers part of the shed, so it had to move onwards on lengths of tube (old boiler tubes) used as rollers, persuaded by a crow bar.? Need plenty of spare rollers to keep switching from back to front.? The secret is take your time and do it gently and in small stages.? You'll get the hang of steering it.? See attached.

?

If we hadn't had the crane and had to unload it manually, that would have been the most risky part.? Think I'd have put the pull lift on again to control the descent and slid it down some lengths of rail or similar.

?

Yes, the pedestals include cut outs for a toe jack or long crow bar.? Either suffices.? Sorry, can't advise the sizes of the holes for the levelling screws.? My money would be on something UNC (uncommon in our works). ?

?

Since I can see myself in this photo, I think it was supplied by Simon Waller.

?

Eddie

?

------ Original Message ------
From: ron.kellis=[email protected]
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, February 14th 2025, 16:14
Subject: [SouthBendLathe] New 16" & Rigging
?

Hi all, expect to be picking it up on Sunday, with a drop deck trailer. I have a 10EE, so not my 1st big lathe move, but the pedestal is a new challenge. Initial questions.
Is there a toe jack cut-out on the inside of the pedestal?
What diameter are the base and feet holes?
I've guesstimated the pedestal width ~ 20". Is this about right?
?
I am planning on a "As shipped by SB" type pallet and KISS pipe rollers as the floor is smooth. Think I need 4 X 4" runners or would two 2" X 12" X 9' be sufficient?
?
I don't really like the ~ 30"? narrow, not sure which is more scary, 4" high and ~40" wide, or stay only 2" high. Another option is I can easily notch the runners to drop the height to lower my pucker factor.
?
I have a toe jack, engine hoist for a safety, and pallet jack. The 10EE pallet I made was 4X6 with 2X12" cross pieces. The 6" height let me get the pallet jack under it but that was done to get it off the trailer after loading it with a lift. I did have to work the center of gravity by shifting one of the center boards to the toe of the tines. Just went very slow. But the SB has no where near the base mass of the 10EE, hence my caution. Other ideas/suggestions are welcome!
?
TIA
?
Ron