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9A apron worm end play

jonwoellhaf All Messages By This Member #108568 Hi guys, ? I been following some interesting and informative posts and now I have a question of my own. ? What is the acceptable end play for the worm in a 9A? ? With the holes in the key slot and nut aligned, the worm is so tight it can't rotate, and in the next looser position it has about 0.075 end play.?Is that acceptable? If not, I don't see how the holes can align and the worm not be way too tight. ? Thanks! ? Jan
mike allen All Messages By This Member #108569 开云体育 If ya have any brass @ teh size of the key ya can try to make one just undersize to see how it works ? Is the leadscrew adjusted so it runs true without binding ? Is the lead screw all cleaned out ? How does it work using the halfnuts ? animal On 1/9/25 7:07 PM, jonwoellhaf via groups.io wrote: toggle quoted message Show quoted text Hi guys, ? I been following some interesting and informative posts and now I have a question of my own. ? What is the acceptable end play for the worm in a 9A? ? With the holes in the key slot and nut aligned, the worm is so tight it can't rotate, and in the next looser position it has about 0.075 end play.?Is that acceptable? If not, I don't see how the holes can align and the worm not be way too tight. ? Thanks! ? Jan
wlw19958 All Messages By This Member #108570 Hi There, ? If I am understanding you correctly, you are referring to the hole in the worm in the apron and the round take-up nut that holds it in the apron casting. ? The castings are not real hard and wear at the point the worm butts against the boss of the apron.? First off, this isn't a real critical problem.? The .075" backlash is just the amount the worm and casting have worn.? The lathe will work quite well like this but there is going to be some "play" or "take-up" before things fully get moving.? This is just fine but some like to eliminate as much "play" or "slop" in the mechanism as they can. ? If you cannot rotate it one full turn to take-up the wear, you can tighten it as much as you can (and still not have it bind) and drill a new hole in the nut to align with the hole in the worm so the take-up and worm can be locked together with the pin. ? Good Luck! -Blue Chips- Webb ? ? ?
jonwoellhaf All Messages By This Member #108571 Thanks very much for the information, Webb. You wishing me good luck worked! ? Due to Boone Testerman's excellent "Southbend apron and saddle rebuild 9A" at <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PQknXd209k&t=1190s> from 5 years ago, I found the problem! ? He pointed out that there's a right way and a wrong way to install the nut on the end of the worm. Guess which way I had it installed. ? I noticed the hole in the nut was off center, but didn't appreciate the significance of that. With the nut on correctly (bevel on the outside and wear marks on the inside) the backlash is only a few thousandths and there no binding of the worm. ? Thanks again, ? Jan toggle quoted message Show quoted text On 01/10/2025 4:50 PM MST wlw19958 via groups.io <wlw-19958@...> wrote: ? ? Hi There, ? If I am understanding you correctly, you are referring to the hole in the worm in the apron and the round take-up nut that holds it in the apron casting. ? The castings are not real hard and wear at the point the worm butts against the boss of the apron.? First off, this isn't a real critical problem.? The .075" backlash is just the amount the worm and casting have worn.? The lathe will work quite well like this but there is going to be some "play" or "take-up" before things fully get moving.? This is just fine but some like to eliminate as much "play" or "slop" in the mechanism as they can. ? If you cannot rotate it one full turn to take-up the wear, you can tighten it as much as you can (and still not have it bind) and drill a new hole in the nut to align with the hole in the worm so the take-up and worm can be locked together with the pin. ? Good Luck! -Blue Chips- Webb ? ? ?

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