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10L Undermount Cone Pully Bearing Replacement
开云体育Isn't there a current seam that can be
disassembled vs 'CUT'
On 3/22/2025 11:21 AM, Don Verdiani via
groups.io wrote:
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Pull out the pin, it should come free. Harry On Tue, Mar 25, 2025 at 10:52?AM John Byghtn3 via <byghtn3=[email protected]> wrote:
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Harry Molwitz |
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If it was glued with hide glue can it be loosened with steam or water and then reglued later?
On Tuesday, March 25, 2025 at 02:08:29 PM CDT, Don Verdiani via groups.io <dlverdiani@...> wrote:
Sorry, skived and glued belt. I'd rather not cut it, if there is a way to change out the right-side bearing leaving it whole.
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Don
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开云体育It’s a polymer belt, but that’s an interesting thought. I’ll check my notes. Probably been 20 years since I put it on ?. ? Don ? From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of rlm_mcv via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2025 4:52 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] 10L Undermount Cone Pully Bearing Replacement ? If it was glued with hide glue can it be loosened with steam or water and then reglued later? ? On Tuesday, March 25, 2025 at 02:08:29 PM CDT, Don Verdiani via groups.io <dlverdiani@...> wrote: ? ? Sorry, skived and glued belt. I'd rather not cut it, if there is a way to change out the right-side bearing leaving it whole. ? Don |
开云体育A Guy on YouTube named WINKEY, is
offering belting and glue, maybe he can offer advice and glue?
----? ??? Click it
This same guy is on a 4x6 bandsaw users
group
His real name is MARK
You can also search "Flat Belt" on
YouTube ---- ??? Click it
Good Luck!
On 3/25/2025 5:52 PM, Don Verdiani via
groups.io wrote:
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Ok everyone, now I could use some help. I determined that the right-side bearing is failing using a stethoscope. I need to talk with someone who has replaced the bearings on a Heavy 10 UMD Cone Pulley shaft. I really want to save my perfectly good polymer drive belt. It looks like the job can be done in place. So far, I have:
So, at the moment:
Replacing the belt is actually not a big, or expensive, deal. Now it's just the principle of the thing. Is what I'm trying to do possible? It looks like if I can figure out how to drive the shaft from right to left and pop the bearing out, this will work. Thoughts/experience?
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One thing for sure, when it goes back together, the six machine screws are going to be socket head cap screws.
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Don Verdiani
Outside Philadelphia, PA |
开云体育The belt, while running in forward, goes up the rear side of the spindle pulley,? down the front side of the pulley. If there there are separate passages through all that cast iron for the two directions you can't do it.
On 3/30/25 17:03, Don Verdiani via
groups.io wrote:
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开云体育maybe... I think you may be able to do something if you don't try
to take the belt off. If you can get enough belt slack to get the
spindle out with out removing the belt you may be able to do
something. On 3/30/25 19:02, Davis Johnson wrote:
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Don
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Sounds like you got about as far, or maybe a bit further, than I did over 20 years ago before admitting defeat and cutting the belt.
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Burred over and damaged set-screw holes were definitely a feature needing care to get things apart without significant damage and requiring thoughtful re-working to prevent a repeat.
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If I recall correctly with the whole unit removed I was able to pull the bearings with the shaft sort of in place then tilt and slide to remove it so I could operate on the pulley mount area to de-burr et al.
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Mine was on the final version of the sheet metal box stand. I'd already pulled the centre panel to fit shelves, doors and drawers for storage. Before re-installation I added a couple of extra holes, with covers, so everything could be re-assembled in place. With everything nicely prepped and clean it all went back together very easily.
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Clive |
开云体育I just took a look at mine ( cabinet mount with the side panel removed at present) and it certainly looks like it should be possible in theory. I see direct access to the taper pin that secures the large drive pulley to the shaft - though it would require care to hammer it out without hitting the cabinet…. The cone pulley has two set screws, and I recall stoning the area where they contacted the shaft after I had everything apart. My bearings had both seized on the shaft and required considerable persuasion to get them to release and then slide off the shaft. Note the shaft has ‘steps’ on both ends for the bearing to seat against. The taper pin was cooperative for once, then I ended up using heat (torch) on the big drive pulley (careful, it’s cast iron…) and ice on the shaft, along with a wheel puller to get that pulley off. Then I managed to persuade the bearings out of the frame by removing the bolt-on keepers and forcefully tapping the shaft toward the tail stock end of the lathe. Once it came out of the frame, I used a wheel puller (it was tight) to pull the right end bearing from the shaft. I ended up ruining both bearings by forcing them off the shaft, but no damage to the shaft. The cone pulley came off more easily than expected using a bigger wheel puller. I had to clean up some burrs and rust spots on the shaft once it was all apart but it all cleaned up nicely. FWIW, I think I’d try it without removing the belt, but worst case, you can always cut the belt and drop the cone pulley unit so you have room to work…On Mar 31, 2025, at 10:55?AM, clive_foster@... via groups.io <clive_foster.t21@...> wrote:
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开云体育
Guys, just cut the damn belt. You can buy a new one for 40-50 bucks.?
There is no need to torture yourself and your machine for something that can be resolved with a swipe of a knife and, later, with a little glue at the skivvied ends of the belt.
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Gary_K via groups.io <themachinest0119@...>
Sent: Monday, March 31, 2025 11:05 PM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] 10L Undermount Cone Pully Bearing Replacement ?
I just took a look at mine ( cabinet mount with the side panel removed at present) and it certainly looks like it should be possible in theory. I see direct access to the taper pin that secures the large drive pulley to the shaft - though it
would require care to hammer it out without hitting the cabinet…. The cone pulley has two set screws, and I recall stoning the area where they contacted the shaft after I had everything apart. My bearings had both seized on the shaft and required considerable
persuasion to get them to release and then slide off the shaft. Note the shaft has ‘steps’ on both ends for the bearing to seat against. The taper pin was cooperative for once, then I ended up using heat (torch) on the big drive pulley (careful, it’s cast
iron…) and ice on the shaft, along with a wheel puller to get that pulley off. Then I managed to persuade the bearings out of the frame by removing the bolt-on keepers and forcefully tapping the shaft toward the tail stock end of the lathe. Once it came out
of the frame, I used a wheel puller (it was tight) to pull the right end bearing from the shaft. I ended up ruining both bearings by forcing them off the shaft, but no damage to the shaft. The cone pulley came off more easily than expected using a bigger wheel
puller. I had to clean up some burrs and rust spots on the shaft once it was all apart but it all cleaned up nicely. FWIW, I think I’d try it without removing the belt, but worst case, you can always cut the belt and drop the cone pulley unit so you have room
to work…
On Mar 31, 2025, at 10:55?AM, clive_foster@... via groups.io <clive_foster.t21@...> wrote:
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Thank you, Andrei. My sentiments, exactly! packard bill
On Tuesday, April 1, 2025 at 11:44:14 AM EDT, Andrei via groups.io <calciu1@...> wrote:
Guys, just cut the damn belt. You can buy a new one for 40-50 bucks.?
There is no need to torture yourself and your machine for something that can be resolved with a swipe of a knife and, later, with a little glue at the skivvied ends of the belt.
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Gary_K via groups.io <themachinest0119@...>
Sent: Monday, March 31, 2025 11:05 PM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] 10L Undermount Cone Pully Bearing Replacement ?
I just took a look at mine ( cabinet mount with the side panel removed at present) and it certainly looks like it should be possible in theory. I see direct access to the taper pin that secures the large drive pulley to the shaft - though it
would require care to hammer it out without hitting the cabinet…. The cone pulley has two set screws, and I recall stoning the area where they contacted the shaft after I had everything apart. My bearings had both seized on the shaft and required considerable
persuasion to get them to release and then slide off the shaft. Note the shaft has ‘steps’ on both ends for the bearing to seat against. The taper pin was cooperative for once, then I ended up using heat (torch) on the big drive pulley (careful, it’s cast
iron…) and ice on the shaft, along with a wheel puller to get that pulley off. Then I managed to persuade the bearings out of the frame by removing the bolt-on keepers and forcefully tapping the shaft toward the tail stock end of the lathe. Once it came out
of the frame, I used a wheel puller (it was tight) to pull the right end bearing from the shaft. I ended up ruining both bearings by forcing them off the shaft, but no damage to the shaft. The cone pulley came off more easily than expected using a bigger wheel
puller. I had to clean up some burrs and rust spots on the shaft once it was all apart but it all cleaned up nicely. FWIW, I think I’d try it without removing the belt, but worst case, you can always cut the belt and drop the cone pulley unit so you have room
to work…
On Mar 31, 2025, at 10:55?AM, clive_foster@... via groups.io <clive_foster.t21@...> wrote:
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harry molwitz
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