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While digging into the bilge to replace a non-working macerator pump (the head was also broken, holding tank cracked, and tank sensor not working), I noticed this crack in the forward bulkhead. I'm assuming this is bad. I've bought a complete lemon for $200K and I'm beside myself. Any information and advice appreciated.

Hi All, Apologies if my questions are too basic on here. I’m finally getting to testing water systems. We filled up the starboard tank to the brim, and noticed the access hatches (white poly twist off, ~6.5”) are seeping water where they fit with the aluminum, not the gasketed port itself. I see 6 screws holding it in, what does everyone recommend for resealing them? I assume the steps will be to take off screws, clean surface, and either put a nitrile/rubber gasket back on. Just curious what this seal should be? Thanks

I'm not getting power to this bus bar (Wrong terminology?) for the 3 circuit breakers for cabin lights FWD, MID, and AFT. Does anyone know where the wire feeding it originates? it is labeled but has bled, maybe "6o 6o" or something like that. I'd assume this draws a bit more power so it's on a dedicated line, just don't know what feeds it. tempted to just jump from the bar coming across if no one knows.

I'm chasing leaks around the pedestal guard. Pedestal guard design from Edson is AWFUL. I fixed my last boat, now it's time for this boat. Three questions come up: * First, ROT! See my picture. The pedestal guard itself goes through solid glass (core voided there). Unfortunately, the engine controls go through cored deck, and now it's "uncored" deck. Damn. I fought deck rot in my last boat, and it's not fun. I've only been able to reach in about 3-4 inches so far (need to dig out my deck-rot tools...) and it's still soaking wet (literally, I can squeeze water out of it). This won't be pretty. Good news is that, unlike my last boat, the deck here is U-G-L-Y, so I can drill holes in the non skid to get more access. (An early PO put down non-skid rubber tiles, the selling broker thought that was ugly so had it ripped out, roughly ground sort-of-flat, and painted a yucky tan). * The throttle lever has two wires going to a switch. Dollars to Donuts, it's an interlock to prevent starting in gear, but it isn't wired in (I just tested, engine turns with wires not connected). I know it's probably legally required, may be ABYC required, and probably is "the right thing." I'm more than a little tempted to not even put the wires back in there. I'm certainly not inclined to find out where it was bypassed in the past. Anyone disagree with that solution? Unlike a car, where starting in gear puts great load on the starter, propellers give near-zero torque at near-zero RPMs. And unlike runabouts/dinghys, no one will ever be starting this engine with people in the water, where you want to avoid an "oops, I thought it was in neutral." Of course, since it isn't wired in, the Admiral puts the engine in reverse to lock the prop, and puts in about 3/4 throttle when she does (I've tried to explain you only have to go until you feel it click into gear, or until you hear the prop stop), and then I absentmindedly start the engine at 3/4 throttle -- maybe I SHOULD wire it back in.....LOL * In the throttle assembly "box" there is a power outlet. It's 3 wires, two purple and one white. The wires look to be original (they go into an impossibly tight conduit, so I doubt they are aftermarket). Anyone know what they do, or where they go? Again, unless I can repurpose them, I'm inclined to clean up dead wires. Now, can someone recommend a rum that will make me forget rotted balsa? Oh.. the fix for those leaky pedestal feet? Backfill the holes, drill out to 20mm, epoxy a 20mm OD x 18mm ID carbon fiber tube (or fiberglass if you can find it -- carbon fiber tube is $20 on Amazon) into the deck sticking up about 2". The pedestal guard will set down over the tubes, the wires still fit in the 18mm new ID (I built a jig and tested it), and then any water that gets under the pedestal feet runs into a dam and can't get below decks. Super easy fix to a very common problem. Ok, maybe not "super easy".....LOL. And then, instead of those stupid black plastic feet (or the massively over-priced stainless ones that Edson sells in pairs -- when you need 3!), buy stanchion bases for $12 each (the ones I bought aren't listed any more, but these are similar https://www.ebay.com/itm/404934648103 ).

I replaced most of the electrical system on my old boat with a modern system that included LiFePO4, proper fusing throughout (incl Class T on the lithium), proper switching, alternator service disconnect, new charger, new cables, separate bus bars, DC-DC charger, proper charging profiles, and new monitoring systems. Given that the boat was 40+ years old, it was an easy decision to rip out all the old stuff and design from the ground up. However, the Saga 43 is not so old relatively speaking, so I'm trying to decide what stays and what goes. I also need to decide how robust I want the lithium system to be in terms of the quality of the batteries and having a design that is fail safe for offshore passage making (i.e. I won't lose critical loads due to a BMS dump). All of this comes with some expense, but I'm confident that I can do the work myself. At a minimum, I'm looking at duplicating what I had done on my old boat but considering if I want to keep the Link 2000 in the system, and in what capacity. I think having a new "smart" shunt in the system is critical as is having a better alternator regulator (Zeus or Wakespeed probably, although Balmar claims their MC 618 with Bluetooth battery monitor is just as good). I will also need a new inverter/charger because my current Freedom Marine 20 is only putting out 100V and can't be programmed for lithiums (you really need to have a custom settings capability). So, even doing this work myself, a new quality "drop-in" system is still going to cost $5-6K or more. I have a Balmar 130A alternator so it makes sense to charge the lithium bank direct to the house bank and use the DC-DC charger to properly charge the start battery. I have to say that the design of the windlass system on my boat bothers me because it doesn't have its own battery up forward so all that current has to pass through 40+ feet of cable. So, I'd probably throw in a battery up there and charge it from the house bank via DC-DC or even a Blue Seas Automatic Charging Relay. I'd like to know if anyone has installed a good LiFePO4 system and if they can share their design? The design from my old boat is pictured.

Hello Saga Brain Trust, Does anyone know the lengths of the various halyards and topping lift for the 43? I am estimating the jib and genoa halyards at approximately 135 ft., but would like to verify the length. On a related note, if anyone has replaced their halyards recently I am curious what line you used and why. Generally I try to find line that has a minimum working load of at least 2000 lbs. Thanks in advance, Patrick Fox SV Fairtide

Hi all, I’ve closed on a Saga 43, hull 54. It’s been mothballed for some years so I’m working through everything and will likely be asking some more questions as I dig in. The previous owner couldn’t locate the settee cushions (both port and starboard), so I’m attempting to source some. Does anyone have recommendations on where to start or possibly have patterns/templates? Thanks in advance!

All, Thought I would share the quote I got from Quantum for new sails. I read through some of the old threads about sails, and was wondering if those of you who got sails from Rolly Tasker are still happy with their purchase? I've reached out to get a quote from North Sails as well and will share that when they get back to me. Anyone have any other lofts they recommend I reach out to? We're planning on replacing the Genoa this season. Michael Kelley No Se, 43, #53

On our boat, there is no trim around the mast where it comes through the deck. There is a gap between all the Cheery strips and the mast. If I were a betting man, I'd bet there was a Cherry collar that trims out the mast. But I don't even see any mounting holes! I've come into a source of some Cherry that would be good for this. So I need to figure out what it should be. I'd love a few pics of the mast trim, so I know what I'm trying to make. If anyone goes to their boat (I've got 6 inches of snow between me and mine!) who can remember to take a few pics, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks! Harry

I’m finally getting around to posting about the structural work that we completed on our newly acquired Saga 409, hull #9. When we purchased the boat last January, the owner was concerned with hull flex in the keel area and had a survey that had identified voids along the starboard side of the hull to keel sump radius. He retained Antrium Associated Naval Architects to review the structural grid in the boat and they felt that the problem was that the floors (transverse beams) were made in the same one piece mold that the longitudinals were made in. It's a hollow grid so that means each floor ended at the inboard side of the longitudinal, and starts again on the outboard side - there was no continuity to the floors - the sides of the longitudinals just flex. Adding to the problem was that the floors were not only discontinuous, but they were offset fore and aft as well and didn’t drop into the sump at all. The owner decided to sell the boat ‘as is’, rather than dealing with the problem. Which is where we come in. We relocated the boat to Victoria and took it to Blackline Marine who deal with dozens of keel structural issues annually, mostly due to rock strikes in our reef infested waters around the Gulf Islands. They agreed with the Antruim assessment and came up with a rebuild plan, that included grinding out the floors and laminating in place three new transverse floors. Two are continuous, running through the two longitudinals to the inside edge of the settee supports. The third only runs inside the two longitudinals. All were laminated around a high density foam core and drop a few inches into the sump to add some lateral stiffness to it and were then bonded to the longitudinals. They also opened up the hull/sump voids and epoxy vacuum filled them, then added glass to the insides of the hull/sump area to add additional stiffness. It was a dusty process, made even worse because at some point the hull areas between the settee supports and the longitudinals had been levelled for battery placement by simply pouring in polyester resin which was close to 2” thick at the inboard end. This all had to be ground out to provide a good bonding surface for the new floors. Virtually the entire bilge area was obstructed by the forward fuel tank, with limited visual access only to the forward keel bolts. I don’t know if all S409’s have this tank set up, but I don’t like the idea of not being able to inspect keel bolts so decided to reduce the size of the tank. It is a fiberglass tank and we cut off the forward end, removed about a 2’ section and then rebonded the front end onto the tank. We now have a total diesel capacity of about 60 gallons and can inspect and clean the entire sump area easily. It was all rather expensive, but I’m confident that we now have a bullet proof hull. The attached photos show the sump area pre-rebuild with the fuel tank removed and then the area once rebuilt. And one of happy days with the boat back sailing! Mike Cannon S409 #9 (as yet to be named)

Good afternoon, I’m speaking with a broker about a Saga 43, hull 54. The broker is telling me it’s a special “CLS edition”, though I can’t find anything relating to what that is. If I understand what I have read in this group, it was one of the last boats made by the factory. I believe this was previously Cloud Splitter. As one of the last boats out of the factory, is that a good thing or a bad thing? I’m told it differs in that it has a substantial Kevlar portion to the layup. It has been sitting for several years, though the hull just received a new awlgrip paint job. Im told the draft is 6.3, though I know there were several different keel versions. Any thoughts or feedback? thanks! Adam St. Augustine, FL

My electrical system has two of the pictured devices. They are wired into the power supply and the ground wiring to the Link 2000 and into the Wind Generator "+" and "-" before the controller. By the label, they are obviously intended to reduce electrical noise. I am wondering if they are present to improve SSB operation or for some other reason. I have never heard it said that link 2000 is susceptible or a culprit in generating interference. I ask because I am removing the SSB and cleaning up a lot of wiring, inline fusing, etc. and I could used the space in the battery box. Does anyone else have these? Has anyone removed them?