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Yikes! Went to boat at mooring today and noticed there was a small trickle of sea water coming in at the PSS shaft seal. I heard that compressing the bellows will stop the leak if nothing is torn. I got new set screws and will try compressing bellows by tapping loosened coupling with a heavy mallet. But first I'll put some Dawn detergent down set screw holes to loosen coupling. I made a cut out from a 2"x4" that goes over the shaft and against the coupling face. I'll use a hose clamp so it can't back up when I remove the screws. Getting in on starboard lazarette and lying on my side while doing this job should be a joy. If anyone has any techniques they can share it is appreciated. -- Mike McKinney Sabre34 Mark1 Kosmic Kat

Hi. I had ored my sabre 32 on the hard over the past 7 months and was preparing to launch this week. I had seen the boat a few months ago and noted some water in the bilge. the boat was shrink wrapped. I mentioned this to the management team. Today I went to the boat and there was at least 6 inches of water in the cabin. and below the engine . I suspect potential damage to the engine, wiring , wood work and maybe other components. The boat yard was supposed to maintain the boat and did various things to upkeep it. So at this point, I will consult my insurance company and get in contact with the yard to make this right. Has anyone had a similar experience and I would be interested in advice . Thank you Gary Weiser Sabre 32

Hello to all. I need to bite the bullet and replace the original W21 on my 1984 Sabre 32. Funds for this project are limited and I did have good experience with Beta a few years back. I would like to know anyone's experience repowering this or a similar boat with a Beta 20. I am in NY on the Long Island Sound. Would like to know costs, (engine/alternator/control panel, etc), total costs and any installer information or recommendations you may have. Many thanks, Dennis Roberts Sabre 32 Goose Hull #006 Mamaroneck, NY

The forward Bomar Hatch hinge snapped on our S42 and we had a persistent leak. The new one is a Lewmar Ocean Hatch 70. Took it down to gel coat, roughed it up and filled the previous holes and crevices with epoxy. I had one corner that was a little gunky and used a nail to clean it out. That one took almost 2 ozs of epoxy to fill. Used 3M 4200 instead of Butyl Tape to bed the hatch all around. So far a tight fit and good result. I made a mistake on the sizing of the drill bit and went a bit too small. The screws were really tight going in, and I felt it as I was driving them in. One broke midway in, and now I have a new project to get that one out and re-drive a new one in... Either way, here are the pics for anyone interested... -- Andrew Bilsbury 1989 S42 C/B Harpswell ME/Portsmouth NH

Good morning. The sail track stop in the mast on our 34-2 is stuck in its fully recessed position, defeating both my efforts and our yard's efforts to free it. Has anyone found or rigged a good solution? Ideally, I'd like something that rides in the slot, like the Davis products (too big for this application). I could drill and tap the mast to take a plate but would prefer not to. (Also considered tack welding something to the pin and yanking it out, but don't want to put heat to the mast if I can avoid it, even in that local area)

Can anyone tell me what material is used in a 1980 S30 # 28 to fill the void in the side where the port lights are installed? I am replacing the ports and the material between the inner and outer "skins" is a loose and chunky mess. Should this void be filled entirely? I know it has to completely filled around the port light but should it be filled all along the side? I am thinking thickened epoxy used in conjunction with a wooden clamp of sorts (plywood with a slot cut and fitted over both layers of FG) to maintain the required gap for the port lights. -- Jim Lake 1980 Sabre 30 Halifax NS

Six Westebeke oil filters # 36918 for sale =- $50; online $16-18 each. Buyer pays shipping.

Sailors, I want to replace an outdated and I assume original Motorola alternator on my 1980 Mark1, 34-footer with Westerbeke’ s 30 diesel B. The nameplate on alternator is wiped clean, but I measured its output with a clamp meter and it's 50 AMP. My total battery amperage is 297, so I believe I need an alternator that can deliver at least 75 amps (because there is 1 deep cycle flooded battery for starting engine and two for the house. All are 98 AMP Interstate group 31). Has anyone replaced their single V drive alternator with another V drive and are happy? I don't think I need to go to a serpentine belt drive, but if anyone has done so I would like to hear from you too. Thanks! -- MikeMcKinney 1980, Sabre34' Mark1 Kosmic Kat

Does anybody know the length of line needed to replace on the vang on the 426? -- Allison S426 Kingfisher SF Bay/Pacifc Northwest

I have such a wrestling match every spring. To empty the water heater for the winter freeze, I have to remove the check valve out of the supply inlet to let it drain. There is almost no room for wrenches etc. Now the elbow wants to be tightened in the wrong position. It's all just a big pain in the backside. I do not recall ever seeing a check valve in any of my other boats. I know they are there to prevent backflow of hot water into the cold side, but I never had one before in other boats. And If I DO have to have it, can I install an inline "any position" valve in the supply hose, a few inches back from the heater? The one I have is a heavy brass unit that want to be level, and closes initially by gravity. I thought I had pics but it seems I don't. EDIT. Ok I do need a check valve to prevent the heater from emptying out and toasting the element if something weird happens. But I will still investigate a brass or stainless spring loaded check valve. Not sure about the flow rate though. -- Jim Gregory Sabre 402 #32 Milford CT

Who has pictures of their boat sporting a dodger? Bimini? I bought my 34-2 with a two bow dodger frame but no canvas, and this year I'm going to address that. I have a three bow Bimini frame with canvas, but it is time for a refresh. I'd love to see pictures for inspiration. Anything in particular you love about your dodger? Anything you think you'll do differently when it comes time to replace? I'm wondering specifically about traditional vs California style, roll up vs zip out windows, window material choices, windows in the wings, dodger to Bimini connectors, trim windows in the bimini, and everything else. I'm in the middle Chesapeake. Do you have any experience or recommendations for canvas work? Suggest away! And thanks in advance! -- Jeff B 1988 Sabre 34-2, 347 S/V Northwood Deale, MD

Hi All, I'm trying to get another year out of the current isenglass and dodger. Does anyone have a recommendation on something that really helps to defog/clear isenglass. Yes, it's clean but foggy. Here is what I have tried. Soap&Water Diluted Vinegar Starbrite Clear Plastic Restorer Part1 (part 2 is sealant) - I didn't want to seal up a half baked solution. Thanks! Sam Moore Muse 10 - S402/'97 #27

My boat came with a Shurflo Waterguard filter under the galley sink. In looking for a replacement cartridge, it appears they no longer make a cartridge that will fit in the housing. They all look to be 10” long and narrow vs. the 5” x 3” that is installed. Am not certain a 10” filter housing will fit under the galley sink and still have sufficient room to drop the housing to replace cartridges in the future. What type of filter do people have, if any? Last year [our first with the boat] we brought water for drinking / cooking and only used the water in the tanks for washing. Would be “nice” to have the option to drink the water from the tanks as well. Cleaned the tanks last year and would need to do again. Thanks, Brian Escapade S426 CT / LIS