开云体育

Hello, I purchased my Sabre 28 from Connecticutwith a filled CNG tank last year, but the gauge is now showing it is getting low. It appears that my Kenyon model 219 stove was converted from propane to CNG because it still has a tag indicating propane as the fuel type but a sticker was tacked on to indicate CNG. It appears that CNG is hard to find these days, so what should I do?. Do I keep looking for CNG or do I convert or replace the stove? -- David Garcia 1984 Sabre 28 Mark III Northport, Long Island, NY

A few days ago White Rose took me from San Francisco Bay to Santa Barbara. There's nothing to beat repeated 10 knot surfs on a broad reach in a steady force 6 whilst feeling the boat perfectly balanced and sure footed. Our SOG for most of the voyage exceeded 8 knots with only double reefed main and staysail hoisted. What a great sail and what privilege to own such a wonderful yacht. I entered the anchorage at 4 am and dropped the hook planning to enter the harbor in daylight. Unfortunately, some of the joy of the voyage was soon lost when, while weighing anchor that afternoon, I noticed a loss of engine power and white smoke and very little water from the exhaust. A huge wad of kelp was lodged in the intake extending along the entire length of the hose to the raw water filter. What a PITA to sort out. I'd like to fit a through hull strainer so that this doesn't happen again. Any recommendations regarding type, material and brand? (Groco makes both a bronze clamshell shaped grating and a scoop shaped strainer.) Any downsides to fitting one of these? Tim Tim Sowerby White Rose S426 Sausalito CA

Our cabin sole near the mast step and the transition between from the main cabin to the vee birth is getting damaged by water running down the mast. I know this topic will never end but I wanted to pass on a quick fix for the root cause of the problem and a question on solution. When I bought our boat in 2010 it had water damage around the mast step but not catastrophic, The sole was wet on the underside and getting some delamination. I removed the mast step, scrapped out wet wood and then applied epoxy on the underside of the sole. Very messy job. The problem has come back. My mast drain is clear. What i didn't realize until now is that when the boat is heeled, sailing or just high wind at the dock, water weeps out of the side where the mast sits on the step. I sealed this with the very sticky tape that is used for heat shrink covers. Leaked has stopped!. Sole is drying out. The sole looks fine but I know underneath it is not. I was thinking of cutting out the section that has been damaged and then glassing the underside or just saturate it with resin. Then reinstall it with some trim teak trim to cover the seams. Has anybody tried this? Any thoughts on how to make neat cuts? Boat is launched and ready to sail Mid lake water temp is 38F! But the ice is gone. Cheers! Bob S42 Vitesse Lake Ontario

I am just tuning the rigging on my 402 after the new season launch. I have rod rigging and a LOOS gauge. Can anyone give me an idea of the optimal tension that should be attained. Thanks Mike Sabre 402 #37 Lake Ontario.

Lst year replaced my centerboard cable with Dyneema. SO far , so good BUT ater thoroughly clearing all barnacles, and crud, it still seems to get stuck if I crank all the way up. Had it in the travel lift today (pre launch) and it works pretty well until I went fully retracted and then neither gravity nor unwinding by winch would not drop it. We went under and pulled it down by hand several inched and tried to exercise it several times. Any time we went higher than about 6inches down, it got stuck up. Finally decided to launch and marked the cable by the winch, so at to remind me to not come fully retracted. Also, lot of effort required to retract The winch spool seems prety smal lwith little mechanical advanatage. I actually use a socket and rachet wrench for some leverage and still quite difficult. ANy ides for winch replacement, or other way to take the sweat out of the job? Thanks all Marty Cawley "Blue" Sabre 34- #188 West Islip,NY

Good day Folks, I am still working on my Sabre 30 1980 and I am currently overhauling the 2002B engine, it was installed in 1992. As any of you who have gotten within cursing distance of this engine know, parts from Volvo are stupidly priced. Parts4 engines and other suppliers are better but still expensive I am currently looking for engine mounts 4 and was wondering if anyone had some in good shape they would be willing to sell...I have the gearbox not the sail drive. Thanks. Jim -- Jim Lake 1980 Saber 30 Halifax NS

Listers I have 5 lightly used 6 vane, neoprene impellers for the 1/2" slotted-shaft raw water pump. I'm remembering some folks may have had trouble locating the impellers with the correct diameter pin to fit the slot. Happy to send to anyone who wishes to pickup the cost of postage. Engine was a 38B-4. Len Walkabout S38mkii Prides Crossing MA

My propeller (3 blade autoprop) is covered with smallish barnacles. What is the best way to clean the prop: scraping and sanding is tedious. Would a wire wheel in a drill end up scratching the surface and encourage growth? Is a flapper wheel in a drill a better approach? Other great ideas? Thanks!

My rebuilt rudder and new rudder bearings are installed, and when putting the quadrant back together I was unsure how tight the cables should be. Does anyone know how much deflection there should be in the cables between the quadrant and the sheaves below the binnacle? I don't think they should be so tight as to put undo stress on the sheaves, but also not so loose that they might slip off. -- Roger Kuebel Restless S362#150 Padanaram, MA

What are the experiences and views of using Tru Design or (upgraded) Marelon seacocks, if any? I believe Sabre has switched over to Marelon, at least that’s what they were using when I visited their factory several years ago. I’ve read where the Marelon handles have been upgraded due to breakage, and the glass reinforced polymer can, over time, absorb water (who knew?!) and become weakened. I haven’t read this about Tru Design (glass reinforced nylon composite). But the lack of galvanic corrosion, electrolysis, lighting strikes, plus possibly less maintenance makes these seacocks sound attractive. I was just wondering if any of you have first hand experience. Thanks, Jay Flynn S362 -- Jay Flynn “Elizabeth Belle” Sabre 362 1999 #212

I’m looking for a source of teak and holly veneer to replace a 3 x 4‘ section of the sole of my cabin. Shops in Port Townsend, North Carolina, and Florida have been unable to obtain this material. Does anyone have any ideas? Julius Gutman Magic Dragon 1989 34’ mkII Targa Mystic Ct.

I am in the middle of a headliner replacement project for my 2001 S452. Removed almost all plywood panels from the ceiling where the vinyl (NAUGAHYDE) material is attached (on top of 1/8 thin foam). I have given up doing it myself and found an upholstery shop in Norwalk, CT, Seafarer Canvas who will do the actual replacement (replacing foam + Naugahyde on the plywood). The only problem is that I ordered the original color Naugahyde from Sailrite. Called ALL AMERICAN BRIGHT WITE (Glen C. from Sabre informed me this is the color they used when the boat was built). In the hurry I did not stop and think my headliner no longer would be as white as in 2001. Fading, etc. comes into effect. I found a better matching color, a little more creamy/off-white: NAUGAHYDE ADOBE WHITE AM-43. Will be ordering this now. So, I am in possession of about 20 yards of Naugahyde - All American Bright White, which I no longer need. It is 100% in the box/on the roll/in plastic/unused. If anyone would be interested to purchase this, please let me know. I believe many other Sabre boats (sail/power) use this material and color in the headliner. Take care Jorgen Naess 2001 Sabre 452, VENTO

I am replacing the halogen bulbs with LED lamps and the ones I bought for the ceiling puck light fixtures do not fit; they are too long and too thick. These fixtures are smaller than the typical Perko dome light, and may only be on the more recent builds like the 386 and 426 [assuming they are original and the PO did not replace them.] The lamps appear to need to be < 1” in length. They are G4 / double pin. Am looking for warm white ~ 3,000 k light. The lamps on Marine Beam and Super Bright LED do not look like they will fit the fixture. What have people used? Thanks, Brian Escapade S426 CT / LIS