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New owner of a 1985 Sabre 36 here. Any advice on acquiring and using a canvas cover for the winter? Anyone have suggestions on where to get one? Thanks in advance! Daniel Stevenson Highland Wave Padanaram, MA

I'm working on organizing an all-Sabre rendezvous in Cuttyhunk (Buzzard's Bay) this coming summer. If anyone is interested in joining, let me know. -- Roger Kuebel Restless S362#150 Padanaram, MA

Hi folks, if there are some 425 owners out there...I am in the process of registering my recently purchased 425 in Canada and I am trying to fill out the 'simplified method of tonnage measurements' form. I am wondering if anyone has the measurement, specifically the tonnage measurement depth? Thanks in advance.

The fixed ports on my S34-1 leak. Does anyone have instructions on how to replace the seals and the materials needed? Thank you. Michael s/v Eventide 34-1 #237

Hi all, I plan to replace my PSS shaft seal in coming weeks. I'm away from the boat right now and need help with some items. Can other owners confirm that the PSS Pro 03-118-214 seal is correct for the 362 (hull 261)? I know the prop shaft is 1.125" dia but not sure about shaft log diameter. From past posts I see that pulling the shaft flange is challenging. Pix of mine are attached. Scott Shucher I see you made a special puller a few years back. Can I drive down and borrow that during the week of March 24? I'm hoping to avoid removing the shaft to square up a new flange. There is no play in the cutlass bearing. Is it reasonable to clean up the old flange and reinstall with new set screws? Can I use a new split flange without removing the shaft? If so please recommend which split flange model is appropriate for this shaft and transmission (ZF/Hurst on a Westerbeke 35D). I'm copying Scott Shucher's post #78169 below from 1/4/21 because it's helpful on these topics. **** Shucher: I just did the Shaft Seal replacement project in last spring on my 362. Here are some observations: *Disclaimer: I am a DYI'er and not a qualified diesel mechanic or machinist. *We bought the 362 in spring of 2019. Our surveyor recommended replacing the rubber bellows on the shaft seal, as we could not ascertain the last time it had been done. As a matter of fact, it could be the original installation. Although PYI recommends replacement every 7 years, (It used to be 10), I'd installed one on a Hunter in 1998, and didn't recall any life-span guidelines on the bellows, until a friend mentioned it. That one lasted 21 seasons, and was still in good shape when I finally replaced it. *I'm guessing my rubber bellows was the original my Sabre installation. There was no water vent on my shaft seal. The early PYI Shaft Seals did not have them. As mentioned the solution was to "burp" the bellows to let air out. I see that your installation on your '95 362 has a vent, which tells me that it's not the original shaft seal on that boat. It was likely upgraded at some point. Also, the bellows looks like a "beefier" version than the one I originally had on my 362. I've attached a before and after photo so you can see the difference. *Assuming the shaft log is the same size, (you can confirm this with Glen at Sabre) The PYI part number is #02-118-214 Shaft Seal. That indicates 1-1/8" shaft, and OD on the stern tube is 2-1/4". I ended up ordering the entire new Shaft Seal, as the whole new package was only $100 more than the maint. kit. *It's not a difficult job to do, EXCEPT for removing the coupling from the shaft. *Here's a good article on installing a new PYI/PSS shaft seal, with a lot of good insight. https://marinehowto.com/installing-a-pss-shaft-seal/ *As to whether its a project you can do yourself, depends upon your level of patience, agility and mechanical confidence. It took myself and a friend three Saturdays to get the coupling off the prop shaft. We tried using the socket to drive the shaft out of the coupling. We only got so far(moving the shaft out about an inch or so) on day one before deciding we needed a wrench with more leverage. On the second attempt, a week later, and with PB blaster that had been sitting for a week, we noticed that we weren't driving the shaft out, as much as we were pushing the engine forward on it's mounts, which is a bad thing to do, so we stopped, not wanting to damage the transmission seals and bearings. At that point we went to a machinist and had him make us a custom puller to attach to the coupling, and drive the shaft out. (Cost was $200 for the custom puller, which is a well machined with a 1" bolt that drove the shaft out as the bolt was tightened.) Once we used the custom puller, we were able to drive the shaft out of the coupling, but the process is still slow and methodical, because there is not a lot of room to work back in the aft stateroom. You spend a lot of time making small progress, scrunched up in a ball, trying to get leverage. *I think "heat" would have made the process a little easier. But b

85 Sabre 32 pic (prior to cleaning and teak work finished) shows my four cowl vents. I read in a prior recent post that you can clean (somehow) and paint these with Rustoleum spray paint. I found the Rustoleum - time to remove the cowls. One reference said they screw in? One said they just pop in and out? Sure would like to know before I tear something up. Can anyone inform me please?

I have two new Scandvik 12104P White Transom Shower Cap and Cup that I do not need for sale for $10 each. Sincerely, Bruce Hamilton Sabre 386

My mounting screw hole on some of the finish work, don't have enough meat around them for wooden bungs. What else can I use to "satisfactorily" seal the space above the screw heads? -- Robert s/v Valinor Sabre 34 Mark I #207 New Bern, NC

Not an endorsement just information that has been occasionally referenced here. Has happened once a year for the past few years. This is for Lewmar Winches. West Marine Buy One Get One Free Winch sale is here! yachtingworld.com Stephanie Arista, S36 #67, Lake Ontario Shburgess1207@... -- Stephanie Moderator Sabre 36, #67 Formerly Sabre 28-2, #289 Wilson Harbor, NY Lake Ontario

I am attaching a few pics of pesty water intrusion on my 85 Sabre 32. Apparently this has been going on for some time as the corner under that port side bunk has a rotten area. To date, I have re-bed the port inside rail track with Catalina Direct Bed IT Butyl tape. I thought that solved the problem, but no so much. I can hose down that sail track and no leaks. I can hose down near the starboard windows, no apparent leaks. However, when I hosed down the sliding hatch main entrance water poured inside onto the floor. I found the ,,, my term,,, stop slide board had pulled lose, I turned it over, re-drilled and bed it with Butyl tape. That seemed to abate the problem. Or so I had hoped. It rains in Mobile AL - a LOT and OFTEN. I need to fix this big time. If anyone has ideas on how to isolate this problem I need some help and ideas, please !!! It seems,,, meaning my guess ,,,, that water is coming in somewhere and traveling to the area where the sail track bolts access holes are located. Specifically, the 2nd or 3 access hole towards the bow, port side, in front of the galley divider. Could it be traveling from the main hatch companionway in-between and seeking low holes to leak out? Summary: leaks kill sail boats. No suggestion is unreasonable, I need help. Pic included - thanks in advance, Verne Royster 85 Sabre 32 "About Time" MYC (Mobile Yacht Club) 251.753.5177

We currently have Starlink aboard and mostly use it during our annual one month cruise along the Maine coast where we get into some remote areas and cannot use our phones as a hot spot. We would prefer not to support Starlink any longer and am wondering if anyone has had any experiences good or bad with any of the other satellite internet providers. We would prefer not have a long contract so that we can it put it on hold when we do not need it. Thanks in advance, Michael Wind Walker S402-097